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AK47frizzle

This NUT is STUCK

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So uh... King Arms ye? Tightening things to inhumane standards.

 

I have this problem with my mdt lss where I cannot unscrew the nut that holds the outer barrel to the hop up chamber. It is a typical m700 system, so I followed guides but the nut it locked down so tight that not even Sam from Kingdomofairsoft could undo it: he put a blow torch to it with some wd40 and only managed to make a small kink sound before not being able to turn it any further for the rest of my time there.

 

So here's what i'm doing right now: 

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I am trying to push/pull the allen key to the right with some wd40 but still to no avail after leaving it soaked for a few hours. 

 

What else is there to try? I could put it up to my cooker to heat it up but that's just too risky :D

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You'll get more torque with the key the other way around.

(Although I'm sure you know that and have not done so for a reason... :D )

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Make sure those keys are bottoming out in the grub screw and not binding on the hole.

I like a screwdriver bit adapter ran in a 1/4inch socket for problem screws.

If that doesn't shift it the next step is destructive.

There is a good chance the grub screw has mushroomed. If that is the case it doesn't matter what you do with regular tools.

If you get the screw turning it'll eat up the threads on the way out. If you can't get it turning you'll end up with a rounded or split grub screw. So you end up in a situation where it's better to sacrifice the grub screw.

Left hand thread screw extracting drill bits. You use them in reverse (the direction the screw undoes).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-Cobalt-Left-Hand-Drill-Bit-Broken-Bolt-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Case-M3E3-/153000583623


If you can't get it to move with the drill and the extractor, you then go up a size in drill bit, Kill the grub screw completely. Then re drill and re-tap the hole to the next size up.

Just don't drill too deep and go through the inner barrel/hop unit.

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6 minutes ago, Iceni said:

Make sure those keys are bottoming out in the grub screw and not binding on the hole.

I like a screwdriver bit adapter ran in a 1/4inch socket for problem screws.

If that doesn't shift it the next step is destructive.

There is a good chance the grub screw has mushroomed. If that is the case it doesn't matter what you do with regular tools.

If you get the screw turning it'll eat up the threads on the way out. If you can't get it turning you'll end up with a rounded or split grub screw. So you end up in a situation where it's better to sacrifice the grub screw.

Left hand thread screw extracting drill bits. You use them in reverse (the direction the screw undoes).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-Cobalt-Left-Hand-Drill-Bit-Broken-Bolt-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Case-M3E3-/153000583623


If you can get it to move with the drill and the extractor, you then go up a size in drill bit, Kill the grub screw completely. Then re drill and re-tap the hole to the next size up.

Just don't drill too deep and go through the inner barrel/hop unit.

 

What he said.

 

Grubs screws can be bought for a penny on eBay and getting a decent tap and die set isnt half bad if you're into airsoft (useed mine many times for mods, adjustments etc).

 

Just use a screw extractor, throw away the grubs screw and move on.

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Either I’m miss interpreting or the others are.

 

You say the NUT is tight, not the grub screw. If that’s the case, I presume you have watched a disassembly guide just to see if it’s a CCW thread?

 

If not your best bet would be to hold the barrel in a vice(if you have one), put something a bit more substantial than an Allen key in the hole, maybe a centre punch. And Gently “persuade” it with a hammer. If it’s been glued are gammed up a nice tap with the hammer should shock it which may provide you with some movement.

 

 

Being made of a cheap metal I’d probably warn against heat as this is likely to seize it further.

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Nah I've misinterpreted the fitting.

I just had a look on a video for it.

If it's steel into aluminium like it looks on the video there is a good chance of a bit of galvanic corrosion in the threads if it was put together dry.


All my methods for undoing that are rough and have a chance of doing damage.

I'd be looking to drop a drift into the hole, and hold the drift in a vice. Then get a rag and chain spanner and use the outer barrel to turn the fitting. It's not a job you can advise someone to have a go at because one wrong move and you'll do some very serious damage. So I do not recommend this.



 

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On 04/11/2018 at 10:59, Iceni said:

Nah I've misinterpreted the fitting.

I just had a look on a video for it.

If it's steel into aluminium like it looks on the video there is a good chance of a bit of galvanic corrosion in the threads if it was put together dry.


All my methods for undoing that are rough and have a chance of doing damage.

I'd be looking to drop a drift into the hole, and hold the drift in a vice. Then get a rag and chain spanner and use the outer barrel to turn the fitting. It's not a job you can advise someone to have a go at because one wrong move and you'll do some very serious damage. So I do not recommend this.



 

Haha, I don't even have the tools for it anyway.

 

Also, for the others: I'm not turning the allen key horizontally, i'm turning to the right VERTICALLY - putting the allen key in the hole for leverage.

 

Currently, even with the help of external man power, still can't undo it... genuinely might have to get Sam to crack it open and buy a replacement. 😕

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I realise this is a stupid question, but you have removed the grub screw first haven't you ? 

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1 hour ago, Nick G said:

I realise this is a stupid question, but you have removed the grub screw first haven't you ? 

there are no grub screws... just the big ol nut

 

unless i'm blind. i'll go check it in a bit

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Warm with a heat gun, lube with duck oil or diesel, repeat.

 

With the offending nut against a hard place (vice / metal bench etc) use a drift/punch and hammer around the outside.

 

Repeat heat / lube if needed.

 

This normally works on threaded collars and dissimilar metals

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Diesel is fantastic. Used to use it on exhaust manifold studs all of the time. 

 

I think a lot of people are confusing what needs to happen. There is no grub screw. I would try a hammer and a small punch and give it a few love taps. Unscrews clockwise if you’re looking at it receiver up/barrel down. 

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Lets hear more about this grub screw... lol

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12 hours ago, AK47frizzle said:

there are no grub screws... just the big ol nut

 

unless i'm blind. i'll go check it in a bit

Fair enough, just wondered if a grub screw was used  to lock the nut into place . Grew up around aircraft and tinkering with cars, where its not at all unusual to secure nuts in place . That does look like galvanic corrosion as someone mentioned before , can you access the nut with a dremal or similar to split it if all else fails ? Plus one for the diesel suggestion  , its amazing how well it can work.

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I took it to sam again today.... no luck. I'm getting it cut open HAHAHAHAHA. More specifically a portion of the outer barrel.

 

Action army does sell the same style outer barrel for m700s so worse comes to worse i'll have to get a new one because there's no other way: he torched it, stuck steel rods in it, drove it with a spanner, broke a few allen keys, all to no avail, so it cutting is the only option left.

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If you do get it apart, you should probably replace anything rubber in there because those don't like WD40.

Good luck with it.

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Pleeease don't use WD-40 to loosen stuck bolts. It's not designed for that.

 

If corrosion has caused it to become stuck, use this stuff instead:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/English-Abrasives-802-10-Plusgas-Aerosol/dp/B0001P02RK

 

Honestly, I had a fuel filter nut stuck on a kit car and no amount of hammering would remove it (previous owner had never changed it) - soaked it in that for about half a day and it finally gave way. 

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ahhaa good news: unlocked it! But, had to cut a patch off the outer barrel which revealed some near permanent locktite used by king arms...

 

Outer barrel is still usable and sam recommends a tnt bucking so i guess that's that.

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