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About AndyDynamic

  • Rank
    AF-UK Starter

Profile Information

  • Guns
    ASG M15A4 Tactical Carbine, silenced
  • Loadouts
    Lightweight camo, black BTP and tan
  • Sites
    Urban Assault
    Free Fire Zone
  • Gender
  • Location

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  1. AndyDynamic

    JG Bar-10 G-Spec custom build diary

    The build process so far First things first, strip the Bar-10 - you can find loads of videos online about this. Once you've done it, it becomes second nature. The advantage of the JG is that there's only 2 bolts holding the barrel assembly into the outer body so take those out, and the whole barrel and bolt section come free. Trigger The zero trigger from AirsoftPro.Cz fits perfectly with no customisation required. 2 screws hold it in place. The only part I was confused about is the 2nd sear (the one that takes the strain of the spring guide). All videos I found show you simply push this in once the spring is in place. However I had to hammer it into place because the tension was too high on the spring. A quick solution? drop it in while the spring isn't in the cylinder, keep the whole assembly upside down and then push the spring/guide/piston to the cylinder and tighten up. Much easier. I had one issue with the cylinder heat. It has 2 rubber o-ring seals for maximum air seal. The lower one at the start of the thread was immediately getting chewed up by the cylinder. I removed it and this does make the job easier. I don't know how much it will affect the build, but you could also use 1 or two wraps of PTFE to replace it, and would probably provide the same level of seal. The hop-up The hop-up requires an AEG barrel as mentioned, and there's a great video of how to install it. I did struggle with the hop rubber pinching but adding some more silicon oil to it helped. Getting the barrel in perfectly straight to line up with the bolts to tighten it down was some trial and error. Warning - tread carefully here, the barrel I have is aluminium, if you overtighten it you'll quickly have a bent barrel. Using the standard hop-up rubber setup, I found the thicker bucking applied way too much hop, so moved down to the mid-size bucking. However, another problem presented itself - I'll jump ahead in the build process here... After a few test shots, I suddenly got a jam - it felt like when the striker buckled its own cylinder. In the hop-up there are 3 allen bolts for adjusting the hop levers. The middle one affects both levers and I didn't have this one tightened up 100%. The act of shooting the rifle and the vibration had slowly unscrewed this bolt a little each time until it was just resting on the cylinder head nozzle. One more shot and it dropped down and effectively pinned the nozzle. The tolerances are so tight it jammed. I may actually remove that central bolt and make do with the left/right adjustment to avoid this issue. It may have been because I didn't have it tightened up to the hop arms, but the whole point is that you can use this or the left/right adjustment. Something to work on there. I may also switch this to a flat hop setup. However this will take some working out as I don't want to sand down the hop arms to work with a square nub. Again something to think about after the main build is complete. Barrel Length The standard G-Spec barrel is 303mm, my replacement is 455mm. I went this route as there is some thought that a longer barrel can improve accuracy and power (longer acceleration of the BB I guess?). In any case, this means it sticks out the end of the barrel by roughly 60mm. I got around this by getting a PDI barrel adaptor and added on an ASG HUSH XL suppressor. The PDI adapter serves 2 uses. 1 - converts the thread so I can use 14mm CCW suppressors, and also nicely supports the barrel at the perfect point to avoid movement! The barrel now extends about half way along the suppressor which I have filled with cotton wool for some dampening. The monster spring A guide I read said to use a stronger spring than you need, then cut this down. This keeps the spring at it's optimum power for longer. The guide mentioned to use an M170 spring which in theory should give me roughly 560FPS. First 5 shots through the chrone and work out the average... 620 FPS... hells bells. I cut down the spring so that it was only compressed by roughly 10mm in the cylinder (this made tightening up the cylinder head a breeze) which got me down to 580FPS - 80 over where I need to be. For a laugh, I took it along to a site and let the marshals have a go in the morning before the games. The range was something around 60-70m without hop applied. If I can get the same when I get down to 500FPS I'll be very happy with that. That's where I'm at the moment. I assume from the quality of the air seals, that's why the FPS is so damn high (of course not discounting the monster spring) so I need to buy a much less powerful spring and that should get me back under the limit. This will also have the added benefit of an easier bolt pull.
  2. Hi all, I thought I'd finally share my build project for my Bar-10 G-Spec. This is my first sniper project so has been a bit of a learning experience about the setup of the guns, how they work etc. It's not finished fully yet so I'll keep this up to date. The aim I'd used an Ares Striker but I was unimpressed by their choice of brass for the cylinder which eventually broke, so after some research on the VSR models, I opted to switch to those for a custom build. I wanted, like most people, a reliable 500FPS bolt action, with a solid hopup for increased accuracy. Unlike the Ares, I wanted an easier bolt pull too so it wasn't as tiring. While FPS is not the be all and end all, that's a single objective to aim for and we'll adjust everything around that. Initial steps and shopping list Rather than opt for the really quite expensive Tokyo Marui VSR G-Spec (which would then be dismantled anyway) I went for the much cheaper, but still excellent JG Bar-10 G-Spec. The reason for the G-Spec was that I preferred the look of the barrel and also I read that the bolt pull is better because there's less chance of catching your hand on the scope as you cycle the cylinder. Also it came with a basic scope in the box, so that's a plus point too. (I refuse to pay silly prices for optics in airsoft, don't get me started) I then developed a shopping list of components that need to be changed to get a reliable 500fps: 90 degree reinforce trigger system to cope with the extra power Lightweight piston Spring guide with thrust bearing for added consistency Improved cylinder head to increase air pressure Improved hop-up chamber for added control of hop, initially using a standard hop-up rubber setup Longer precision barrel to aid accuracy and also increase air pressure further A spring, obviously - an M170 - I'll come back to this in a moment CNC machined magazine release ... for extra bragging rights. To ease the ordering process I got the trigger system, piston, guide, cylinder head, hop-up chamber spring and all important magazine release from AirsoftPro.Cz Honestly the quality of these components is outstanding. Everything you see is CNC Machined and the price was just fantastic - can't recommend more. Slight point about the hop-up chamber. This requires an AEG barrel, which is fine as it actually makes the options much greater, so I went for the same make/model as I have in my ASG M15, a MadBull 6.03 Black Python V2 - and slightly longer at 455mm. So we're not at full VSR barrel length but we're not far off. The barrel is incredibly light and build quality is fantastic. The hop for now is a 60 degree AEG hop I had lying around, so probably not the best here, definitely something to correct later. I'll follow up with the build steps I went through.
  3. AndyDynamic

    Hamster’s guide to the (sort of) science of pew pewing!

    This is a fantastic post and I love the detail you've gone to in the physics and the way you've explained the various forces etc. my next project at some point will be an r-hop because the results I've found with a flat hop are fantastic.
  4. AndyDynamic

    Hello from Leeds

    Hey there mate, welcome to the forum! Get yourself a hydration pack - get a cheap camo one from Amazon first of all Linky McLink - then when you're a bit more flush with cash and want a vest/plate carrier, you can get an integrated one like I did with the Condor setup : This connects up with this - bloody life saver in the summer!
  5. AndyDynamic

    Urban Assault - 15th September

    No bother mate, might catch you at another one! Glad the temps are down though, I played a few times in the recent heatwave and it was agony
  6. Hi all, I'll be there with my other half Sarah, enjoying her first go at Airsoft - she's borrowing all my decent gear so should get a pretty good run at it! I think @Markuz is coming, how about you @djben9 ? Hoping to get a few people so we have a squad to support Sarah in her first game. Cheers!
  7. AndyDynamic

    ASPUK (Airsoft Sniper Parts UK)

    I had a disappointing experience with ASPUK. I ordered some of the AirsoftPro components, and their own cylinder head knowing they had a preorder date a couple of weeks later. This was fine but the date came and went without a dispatch notice. I then noted the date for preorders had moved a week. Thinking this was a delay in shipping, I let it slide. Then the date moved again, to a month later. I gave them a call to make sure and they apologised and informed me it was coming in then and that it would be sent out straight away. It didn't and it wasn't. Fast forward another month, I was keeping faith because I wanted to buy from a UK retailer and again I was told that it was coming a week later and that I would be updated on email. At this point I had received zero communications on email about the delays of my £100+ order, even though I was told I would and I would receive updates from the team. I gave them a final call and was told the same that the supplier had let them down, so I put a paypal request in for the refund and was refunded almost immediately.
  8. AndyDynamic


    Ordered from these guys a couple of weeks back and absolutely zero complaints. Not only was the delivery super fast, it was also quite transparent with regards to charges. Their delivery time was quoted at approx. 10 days and it came under that. All was well packaged and clearly addressed. It initially came from a Czech firm and was handed over to DHL to complete the trip in the UK. 10/10 would buy from again. Also to add the quality of the components is unreal, all their own in-house branded stuff and I could not be happier with it. Very impressed with that and also their prices. (I ordered in Czech zloty using Paypal)
  9. AndyDynamic

    Movie pistols - Which are the greatest and why?

    +1 for the grammaton cleric guns, some of the best gunplay on screen Surprised no one has mentioned the Bladerunner - http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/(Blade_Runner)_-_LAPD_2019_Blaster - complete mismash of guns, looks like a bolt action revolver! Also, while not cinematic, the guns from Hellsing are pretty mad - http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/Hellsing_Ultimate The Cassul and Jackul, 0.454 caliber pistols - loads of religious overtones as they're used for killing vampires et al, bullets are melted down metal from the cross at Lanchester Cathedral 😁
  10. AndyDynamic

    Gotta restock gas, but which brand?

    I use Swiss Arms Extreme Gas and it's very consistent for me. Link on Fire Support In my Marui PX4 I get roughly 260-280 depending on temperature
  11. AndyDynamic

    My First Flat Hop

    Yeah I think all the types of custom hops will damage softer buckings quickly, definitely something to watch out for Also yes I agree, I think these hops are all better suited to heavier weight ammo, it grips the bucking more so you get more back spin
  12. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For sale
    • Used

    This RIF is for spares or repair For sale is our team Striker in Urban Grey, the stock brass cylinder let go and buckled inside the RIF when cocked, which jammed the spring. I disassembled it and removed the cylinder and other components to free the spring. You can see from the photo that the cylinder got dented in the process, and also that the soft rubbish brass started to give way on the bolt pull. The cocking indicator, which also serves as the rear of the cylinder was also damaged in the event. Otherwise the rifle is in good condition. It was shooting perfectly well, at a tested 492FPS on 0.25g BBs. The rifle comes with: 1 x stock body including all you can see and stock inner barrel + hopup - the plastic body has some wear/scratches but looks good, metal components are in good condition 1 x original magazine in tan 1 x stock piston - some wearing 1 x stock cylinder head 1 x stock spring guide 1 x stock bolt handle and bolt cap 2 x springs for 400 and 500 FPS, tested and verified at 396 and 492 fps on 0.25g BBs To get this working, it would just require a cylinder and cocking indicator. The rest of the seals are good, and the mag feeds without an issue. My projects have moved onto other RIFs at this time. I can post, which will be around £10 using ParcelForce Express48 - I have to do this at a post office in person so can only do Saturday deliveries. I am also away on holiday during August so if need be I can post it asap. I can also do collection within the Cambridgeshire/Bedfordshire area.


  13. AndyDynamic

    My First Flat Hop

    Hi all, As the title suggests, I've begun to move into the dark arts of hop unit tampering, starting with what has been called the easiest modification, installing a flat hop. After much Googling and trying to figure out what the difference is between a flat hop, r-hop, z-hop, g-hop, cookiemonster-hop (that last one possibly isn't real) I made the plunge. I started by taking my standard hop bucking which had seen some use. Turning it inside out with the help of a pair of needle nosed pliers (it can be tricky) I then used a hand held Dremel to gently sand away both the bucking mound, and the raised line. Once done and cleaned up, I rolled it back the right way. I would recommend using a permanent marker to show where the mound and raised part were before you sand off. This is helpful for the next part. Placing it back on the barrel, you need to rotate the bucking 90degrees, basically so that a clean part of the bucking is over the hole in the barrel. Hence the drawn on line. I use a MadBull 6.03 barrel and bucking, so the fit is pretty tight. Next you want to remove the hop arm from your hop unit, and the nub. The nub will become obsolete shortly. At this point you have 2 options. You can either buy a pre-made flat nub (Prometheus make one) Or you can modify the hop arm to remove the "claw" from it, and make up your own square nub I went with option 2, for 2 reasons. I didn't have a flat nub, and also I wanted to make sure the nub was perfectly sized for the window on the barrel and the area on the hop unit for maximum snugness. This does mean there's no turning back, you have to grind off the "claw" from the hop arm, so if you don't have a dremel, or don't want to risk it, just get a flat nub from Prometheus : Example on Pro Airsoft Once the "claw" is removed, you now need to make your own flat nub. All the guides online say you should use the old pink erasers you got in school - that just smudged pencil instead of y'know, erasing it. I couldn't find these for love nor money, but what I did find is carving blocks of rubber on Amazon. These are perfect, cheap, and you get LOADS so you can cock up enough, which I did many times - This is the stuff I got - it's got great consistency, is semi-hard (oo-er) so it won't squash under the hop arm too much. You then need to carefully cutout a square which will not only fit into your hop unit, but also fit into the window on the barrel. This is much smaller than you think. And something that caught me out is how short it needs to be in terms of height. Basically at the end of it, your nub wants to be tall enough so that at zero hop on your unit, you are only just applying pressure, so it doesn't fall out. A tiny bit of default hop will be fine. I would recommend a set of modelling knives, preferably one that has a straight edge, as that means you'll get a cleaner, straighter cut. Number 18 from here When cutting you want the top and bottom to be perfectly level, otherwise when you apply hop, you end up with an angle on the hop rubber which will send your BBs off left or right. Slot it into the hopunit, get the arm on there and check through the barrel that your hop is applied evenly. The flat hop will apply a LOT more hop than usual, so be careful, you will not need a lot. If you crank it on, you could split the rubber (steady lads) or, in the case of my MadBull hop unit, the strain on the hop arm can pop the adjustment wheel off of its rubber o-ring. But you really don't need a lot. Testing I got to field this for the first time on Sunday and I was anxious - my hop didn't look quite level in the barrel so I expected it to be crap and off to one side. I started to dial in the hop very slowly, bit by bit, and it was rubbish - BBs were dropping very low, then I gave it another turn a bit further and suddenly they're going much further! A little tweak back down - I'm talking 1mm of turn - and the shots are lovely and straight with only a tiny bit of lift towards the end to extend the range, just what you want. I wasn't seeing any side deviation, and if I was it was minimal. I would say I was getting perhaps 5-10 metres more effective range out of the RIF but more importantly, the spread of BBs had narrowed - this is key. On full auto, previously the BBs would have a grouping that was quite wide after about 15 metres. In the old hop, this is caused by the hop arm moving, the contact patch on the BB being small which in turn rattles the BB down the barrel. With the flat hop, not only does the contact patch extend by an extra 1-2mm but the affect of the larger nub on the hop arm stops most if not all of the lateral movement of the arm. The effect of this is that a burst on full auto lands the group of BBs in a much tighter pattern, so there's more chance of scoring multiple hits on a target and the targetee acknowledging them. Where to go from here I have some of the fabled R-Hop patches to try next. These are apparently even more black magic and can be a pain to setup, but the effects are even tighter grouping and possibly a little more range, but more importantly, better hop of heavier BBs, so moving up to 0.28 would mean the RIF would be much more consistent at range. Hope you've enjoyed reading this wall of text - I can add images if people would like. Cheers Andy
  14. AndyDynamic

    Free Fire Zone - 29th July

    I've switched to a coyote brown chest rig and tan checked shirt - worked well! @Markuz was in his usual multicam and that was working really well, especially in the areas where the light was breaking through the trees.
  15. This was mine and @Markuz first visit to FFZ, being big fans of UA and wanting to try some additional woodland games. Being about an hour away, it's very easy to get to from the A1 and set out of the way in rolling countryside. Parking is ample, although I can see on busy days it could get tricky - there's a burger van for all your meaty needs, and a portaloo. They could also possibly do with a bigger sign on the gate After an initial safety briefing, we load up and in a change to the normal process we are chrono'ed going into the site, rather than beforehand. So while this can be a bit time consuming it does mean everyone is checked. Form a queue! The site itself is fantastic, it's mainly natural woodland with gullies, rises and the odd stream. There are some fortifications included such as raised platforms, sandbag bunkers, huts and so on. I think the best way to think of it would jungle warfare, ala Vietnam. Although one of the best platforms had to be excluded due to an angry wasps nest! Unfortunately the player count was lower than normal, at I think around 50-60. With a bad weather forecast that probably put a lot of people off - we had a few spots of rain, nothing more. But this meant that the marshal's reacted to this and the games were shorter, maximum of 40 minutes, and kept in smaller areas so the action was flowing quickly. I thought the organisation of the games was excellent, and all of them were challenging in some form, either attacking a gun emplacement, or transporting rockets to a central point. There was a good placement of marshals, and I noted some marshals were playing within the teams, which is always a good way to monitor situations. The day passed, as far as I could see, without incident and the playing was generally well done and I didn't see any cheating. I would note that I think the blue team should've been more aggressive, we think they had a few too many snipers and it's difficult to take a position when your main weapon can only be used 25 metres out. I'm sure that will all change in the winter when the foliage starts to die down. All in, great site and we'll definitely be heading back.