THE TM MWS thread

[hunter511]

Evening gentlemen.

 

Been a while. Finally built up a longer second upper.

 

350-400mm inner barrel. What brand and diameter and why?

 

Eyed up an EdGI stainless... But £130 notes is a bit strong to say the least. An ML crazy jet (£50) seems okay procewise but my previous experience with them suggests they aren't the "bestest barrel evah" that I've seen them claimed to be.

 

Stock TM VSR barrel any good?

 

Honestly all I want is an inner barrel setup that doesnt stop half way up the outer. Ideally allowing a slightly tighter group out to woodland ranges on .28s/.3s or similar

Edited June 26, 2021 by hunter511
naughty spellingses and autocorrect pwning me

[Cyberlawyer]

I have Crazy Jets in two of my longer barrel builds and have found them to be pretty good, but If you use them you really need to pair them with a maple leaf rubber and omega hop nub to get the best out of them, and the hop rubber needs a millimetre taken off the tab with a razor blade so it seats in the hop unit properly.

 

If you use the brass nub and modify tan rubber which is well regarded in these parts then the Crazy Jet will be mediocre at best and there are several barrels that feature in these pages that are a better bet.

[HorribleSkrub]

So I have been doing some experimenting wit the MWS ever since I ran into my overhop issue. For those who don't know, essentially while firing, something is causing the hop dial to turn back, applying drastic amounts of hop with each shot. For reference, I use 0.32 g BB's and propane. The following is a list of upgrade parts I have installed:

 

- G&P Roller Bolt (replaces the stock end piece on the bolt carrier for one with bearings)

- SixG super nub

- SixG high speed buffer

- Modify tan bucking

 

Of all these parts, the only one I could see affecting the hop dial might be the roller bolt, as it could have misaligned the bolt carrier and cause it to interfere with the hop dial. Aside from the nub and bucking, I removed the upgrade parts and reinstalled the stock ones. This did not solve any issues.

 

When testing it out, I set the dial back by 14 clicks (out of the approximately 21 clicks the dial can move). Inserting a new magazine and charging it, within 5 shots do the BB's begin to overhop. I remove the magazine, and observe that the dial is mostly, if not all the way turned to maximum hop. After resetting the dial to 14, the rest of the magazine fires consistently, sometimes with an added click or two of the dial. After the magazine finishes, a new one is inserted, and the bolt release is pressed. Then again, within 5 shots does the dial get pushed back. This leads me to believe that whatever manual input of loading a round (charging the bolt/pressing the release lever) leads to the dial being forced back.

 

Honestly I'm dumbfounded as to what is causing this issue. I've tried removing the hop adjuster and retightening the dial screw. It's seated perfectly fine in the upper receiver as well. If I get desperate enough I may just fill part of the dial cavity with epoxy to create a "hard stop" for the hop up. Either that or try switching it out with the one Guns Modify makes, but I'm not sure what else I could do. If anyone has any suggestions or similar experiences, please let me know. 

[SSPKali]

3 hours ago, HorribleSkrub said:If I get desperate enough I may just fill part of the dial cavity with epoxy to create a "hard stop" for the hop up. Either that or try switching it out with the one Guns Modify makes, but I'm not sure what else I could do. If anyone has any suggestions or similar experiences, please let me know. 

I would look at using some electrical wire of a suitable size to make a hard stop in the hop wheel so at least you can dig it out and replace if needed 🙂Silicone covered wire of a suitable diameter should press in nicely and hold.

 

Before getting to that stage I would try putting a drop of water base paint on the exposed part of the hop dial and cycling the gun while it is still wet. Then stop and take out the bolt and see if there is any transfer. It has to be something either pressing on the wheel or vibrating it round and I am not sure that such a small, light part could be moved by such low frequency vibrations as the bolt cycling.

 

Let us know how you get on!

 

 

[hunter511]

8 hours ago, Cyberlawyer said:

I have Crazy Jets in two of my longer barrel builds and have found them to be pretty good, but If you use them you really need to pair them with a maple leaf rubber and omega hop nub to get the best out of them, and the hop rubber needs a millimetre taken off the tab with a razor blade so it seats in the hop unit properly.

 

If you use the brass nub and modify tan rubber which is well regarded in these parts then the Crazy Jet will be mediocre at best and there are several barrels that feature in these pages that are a better bet.

So omega tensioner, yellow autobot and a 410mm barrel should be good to go then?

Edited June 27, 2021 by hunter511
autocorrect, again.

[Davegolf]

This is a good barrel for the money

https://www.socomtactical.net/prometheus-370mm-m4a1-mws-6-03mm-barrel/

PS you are not getting any more range or accuracy from a barrel once you exceed 300mm, only FPS increase 

[Cyberlawyer]

13 hours ago, hunter511 said:

So omega tensioner, yellow autobot and a 410mm barrel should be good to go then?

 

That setup would certainly work and I have run similar before. Personally I prefer the deception rubber for consistency, and as I will always be down tuning the FPS with my NPAs to get to site requirements I'm not bothered that it requires slightly more barrel intrusion to hop any given weight of BB.

[hunter511]

One final question if I may. Has anyone tried the firefly hop rubbers with the MWS, I know that soft is normally the option for sub DMR FPS guns but is there a limit on what soft will hop weighhtwise. 

Or (After all that) is the modify tan a better option?

Edited June 28, 2021 by hunter511

[Cyberlawyer]

No personal experience with firefly hop rubbers, but in general soft hop rubbers perform really well in DMRs they just have a relatively short life span.

 

The modify tan itself is very soft, this is one of the reasons it is so ‘grippy’ and works so well.

 

I often use a 50 degree maple leaf in my DMR, with great results, but a rubber will only last a handful of game days. I don’t spout on about it because I don’t feel it’s right to recommend something with such a short working life.

 

One of the reasons I went to Maple leafs in my DMR was that the modify tans don’t last that long at DMR FPS and a while ago they became very hard to source. The availability seems to have improved now, but they are still a couple of quid a rubber more than the maple leaf which really adds up especially when l have to pay shipping on top when the MLs are available locally.

Edited June 28, 2021 by Cyberlawyer

[AlphaBear]

7 hours ago, hunter511 said:

One final question if I may. Has anyone tried the firefly hop rubbers with the MWS, I know that soft is normally the option for sub DMR FPS guns but is there a limit on what soft will hop weighhtwise. 

Or (After all that) is the modify tan a better option?

Give it a go and report back. I’d be interested to see the results. I run a fire fly hop in one of my recoils and it’s simply outstanding. Only drawback is when installing it’s got to be perfect due to the ganglia of the hop. If you have one you’ll know what I mean  

[PopRocket123]

Has anyone experimented with using using a longer inner barrel and npas to keep the FPS down. My hypothesis is that it should give better consistency and gas efficiency. I imagine these benefits would be marginal at best but the real improvements should be reduced wear on the hop rubber meaning you can use a softer rubber for longer

[Groot]

1 hour ago, PopRocket123 said:

Has anyone experimented with using using a longer inner barrel and npas to keep the FPS down. My hypothesis is that it should give better consistency and gas efficiency. I imagine these benefits would be marginal at best but the real improvements should be reduced wear on the hop rubber meaning you can use a softer rubber for longer

 

@quango2k has done this and is very pleased with the results. 

[gunbod007]

Anyone preordering the AKM?

[Bathcat]

deleted

Edited July 2, 2021 by Bathcat
Questions answered

[Hypokondrikern]

I think I want to see Badabing’s review and some aftermarket options before making a purchase. What I like about our MWS is that you can have spare bolts, uppers and lowers to switch things around and as backup in case something unfortunate happens. The AKM seems more cumbersome and without these options for quick modularity 

 

but then it’s also an AKM which clicks when empty... but I’m sure there will be after market parts by guns modify and such that turns it into an AK74

 

edit. But that Saiga might be a good buddy for the MWS!!

Edited July 2, 2021 by Hypokondrikern

[Reap]

I have been to a skirmish today and learnt something valuable about the MWS…….It much prefers Abbey ultra predator over Nuprol 2.0.

 

Since last October I have run my MWS on nuprol 2.0 (green can) and I was instantly impressed by the range and accuracy but not the full auto, almost to the point where I thought it’s pointless this gun having a full auto. I even tried in hot temperature all 6 mags didn’t want to cycle on full auto.

 First time today I switched to Abbey ultra predator (red can) and just wow!!!! It’s like a completely different gun. Won’t be using nuprol 2.0 ever again on this weapon system.

[C-Diddy]

Any suggestions, apart from Impulse101 or Eagle Six, where I can pick up a hop click pin spring? Nudged the hop wheel earlier when reassembling and mine fucked off into the beyond. 

[ajumma]

6 hours ago, Reap said:

I have been to a skirmish today and learnt something valuable about the MWS…….It much prefers Abbey ultra predator over Nuprol 2.0.

 

Since last October I have run my MWS on nuprol 2.0 (green can) and I was instantly impressed by the range and accuracy but not the full auto, almost to the point where I thought it’s pointless this gun having a full auto. I even tried in hot temperature all 6 mags didn’t want to cycle on full auto.

 First time today I switched to Abbey ultra predator (red can) and just wow!!!! It’s like a completely different gun. Won’t be using nuprol 2.0 ever again on this weapon system.

Red gas runs at higher pressure than green/nuprol 2.0, so I would be wary of accelerated wear on weak parts like the nozzle spring and buffer. Aside from those though, it’s perfectly safe to use red gas depending on the ambient temperature. 

 

I used Nuprol 3.0 between 4 and 12°C with great success. I stuck to nuprol 2.0 between 12-20 though with no problems!

[Reap]

12 hours ago, ajumma said:

Red gas runs at higher pressure than green/nuprol 2.0, so I would be wary of accelerated wear on weak parts like the nozzle spring and buffer. Aside from those though, it’s perfectly safe to use red gas depending on the ambient temperature. 

 

I used Nuprol 3.0 between 4 and 12°C with great success. I stuck to nuprol 2.0 between 12-20 though with no problems!

Isn’t the red can of abbey equivalent of green gas?

Edited July 5, 2021 by Reap
Added picture

[EDcase]

2 hours ago, Reap said:

Isn’t the red can of abbey equivalent of green gas?

They're both the same gas but the red is at higher pressure which can cause damage if used in a weapon not designed for it. (ie. TM)

 

Edited July 5, 2021 by EDcase

[SSPKali]

Ok, it’s official, the TM MWS has ruined AEGs for me!

 

Had a great day at UCAP VENDETTA running my MWS with Spitfire tracer and Vortex red dot. 2 spare mags and a 90rd speed loader for “walk back to respawn top-ups” saw me through a couple of games easy with ASG Ultrair gas and Longbow tracer 0.30g BBs.

 

I switched to my heavily customised Cyma MP5 for exactly one game…feel was “off” and zero feedback on taking a shot. Accuracy was ok for CQB but not on the long open stretches outside. Seemed to burn through ammo to try and compensate. I’ll keep it for really close in stuff like StrikeForce and Bristol Courthouse.

 

Went back to the MWS and even got a guy 45m away hiding behind a trailer, only his feet and lower shins showing 😁

 

We won’t mention the shot from 5m back, through a 10cm hole in a door into the marshals crotch 🥺 TBF there was a blue hiding behind it and taunting us!

[quango2k]

On 22/06/2021 at 14:45, Groot said:

 

GBBR have a role and a realism aspect, but a well tuned AEG will be beat them in every way. Except in super heavy rain, where electrics do not fair very well. 

 

GBBR's have a cool realism aspect you will not get on all but the very highest end GBLS M4. Which cost around 3-4 times more than an MWS. Even then, the GBBR has the realism edge and a nicer trigger. 

But you will have to deal with gas temps, purging mags, higher maintenance and much lower ammo counts. All while carrying mags, which weigh a lot more and are relatively fragile compared to an AEG Midcap. 

 

I am still yet to be won over by my MWS, which I hope will happen by turning it into a 1.88J DMR running 0.45s 

 

I want to love it, but i would rather win

 

Speedsofter...

[Groot]

6 minutes ago, quango2k said:

Speedsofter...

Fangurl 

[AlphaBear]

On 04/07/2021 at 15:06, Reap said:

I have been to a skirmish today and learnt something valuable about the MWS…….It much prefers Abbey ultra predator over Nuprol 2.0.

 

Since last October I have run my MWS on nuprol 2.0 (green can) and I was instantly impressed by the range and accuracy but not the full auto, almost to the point where I thought it’s pointless this gun having a full auto. I even tried in hot temperature all 6 mags didn’t want to cycle on full auto.

 First time today I switched to Abbey ultra predator (red can) and just wow!!!! It’s like a completely different gun. Won’t be using nuprol 2.0 ever again on this weapon system.

Personally anything Nuprol... sod that!

 

But going back to Abbey predator the MWS can easily take it as the platform is designed to handle more than the duster gas the Japanese use. The only thing to be worried about is the joules creep... especially at temps above 22c.  Mine was hitting 360fps at that temperature a while back... so I switched to the abbey green and came down to around 330-340fps.. However as a few others above have said the extra pressures may lead to the weakest part buggering up which in this case is the nozzle spring... Easy fix though.. switch it out to a much stronger Eagle6 spring... also get SixG's HSB buffer to give added protection as you don't want the B buffer part to disintegrate

 

But yeah, Abbey pred is sure as hell fun to use

 

Edited July 6, 2021 by AlphaBear

[Whisky1]

Hey guys, it's been a long time since I've posted anything, but thought Id ask a few questions or atleast get some opinions.

 

So I've had my mws for 2 years now, done so much shooting it's not even fair use at this point (50 cans of red) and it has done a metric tonne of bbs. (not really but you get my point)

 

I have found that my trigger has broken in and is much better then it was 2 years ago, but it's leaves me some what wanting.

 

Now I broke my disconnector where it engages the auto sear (around 10,000 rounds ago.) And thought I'll get round to replacing it when I change the trigger and bolt stop plate. Well that time is now as my bolt lock isn't as reliable as it should be and my trigger is failing to reset occasionally.

 

So my questions are what have you folks done to your trigger boxs???

 

Wii tech marksman sear's?

Guns modify adjustable triggers? 

Lightweight bolt catch plates? 

Maybe some precise fettling? 

 

Any thoughts or experience's welcome..

 

Thanks guys, be lucky.