Davegolf Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Owing to the nature of Gas power they are better performing as a DMR than an AEG powered one would be, froma an energy transfer point of view. Obviously they are not magical so will not perform as well as a proerly sorted BASR. IMO and experience, fully worked airsoft guns generally are capable of the following measured EFFECTIVE RANGE; 500 fps BASR - 95M 430 fps MWS DMR - 80M 430 fps AEG DMR - 75M 340 fps AEG - 65M Shizbazki and Groot 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyNex0 Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Dont hate now but how to I get lose the railnut?? Ive tried to untread it on both directions but no way its moving. Just demolishes... Shizbazki and sabaka 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groot Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Heat and Violence! quango2k 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyNex0 Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Is heat needed seeing as the picture kinda demonstrades violence 😕 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Shizbazki Posted January 18, 2021 Supporters Share Posted January 18, 2021 Heat is needed! My MTR 16 G Edition castle nut would not move for love nor money. Heat gun for a few minutes warmed it up enough that the glue melted and witha wrench i was able to get it off without damaging too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBear Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Damn! That’s the infamous MK18 with the almost impossible barrel nut isn’t it? I would have suggested using the correct tool to remove it but that may not be possible now as you’ve lost the teeth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBear Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Otherwise a tungsten carbide cutting bit should do it... but be careful you don't nick the barrel or rail... Dremel do a cutting/milling bit which will eat up the metal easily... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyNex0 Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 (edited) Yeah I guess it is. Is it righty tight lefty losey?? Seeing I added heat and used force. Next step is more force which means 99% break the nut. Is it easy to find replacements? EDIT: All I wanted was to change the railto one with another color, didnt think it would be such a mess 😅. Just did my mtw and ptw to mk18s with brown/fde rails and now I wanted to this one aswell since I bought 3 fde ones. And I never thought this one would be like a nightmare EDIT2: Might aswell ask about the buffertube, Ive ordered a buffertube slingplate with a qd, well I have any issuses about losing the buffertub and replace the endplate with a new one like a real ar15 or is it glued aswell? Ty. Edited January 18, 2021 by SkyNex0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reap Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 @SkyNex0did you use hammer and chisel on that nut? I’ve acquired a heat gun to do mine but I’m waiting until I find information on the correct tool, before I even attempt it. I’ve seen a few people asking about this nut but it still seems like an unanswered question in regards to which tool fits it best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBear Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 I thought the MWS MK18 rail is already FDE/tan/bronze or whatever in colour already? Reap 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reap Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 5 minutes ago, AlphaBear said: I thought the MWS MK18 rail is already FDE/tan/bronze or whatever in colour already? It sure is a dark bronze, it’s lovely infact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyNex0 Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 I looks black to me? Cant see any difference betwen the upper and the rail? Ah well since I only managed to damage the nut and nothing more I might aswell keep the black/fde one on then. Ghk mk18 is much lighter then the tm one?. Thanks anyhow for replies :). And yes I used a hammer and a punchtool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reap Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 This is the tool eagle6 use in their videos for the MWS, so I’m thinking about buying one of these, they’re around £20. Grinding along the yellow line until it fits inside the DD rail, and welding a new handle on to it where black arrow is pointing, but that is assuming the castle nut is the same diameter in the mk18 and the teeth fit nicely. AlphaBear 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
occidio Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 On 16/01/2021 at 10:59, RMDavis said: A mate of mine uses a Vision King short dot on his GHK based DMR and hasn't had any issues with it whatsoever regarding losing zero etc. Vision king is made for RS so GBBR is no problem. 9 hours ago, Davegolf said: Owing to the nature of Gas power they are better performing as a DMR than an AEG powered one would be, froma an energy transfer point of view. Obviously they are not magical so will not perform as well as a proerly sorted BASR. IMO and experience, fully worked airsoft guns generally are capable of the following measured EFFECTIVE RANGE; 500 fps BASR - 95M 430 fps MWS DMR - 80M 430 fps AEG DMR - 75M 340 fps AEG - 65M Unfortunately, that makes no sense. GBBRs have the advantage that they add more energy to the bb when increasing the weight of the bb (joulecreap) But if you measure 430fps with the same bb weight after ot left the barrel, then the energy will be the same and no bb can feel when it is shot out of the barrel whether it comes from an AEG or a GBBR. So at that point they both fly as far as the energy allows, hopup is of course a factor for the length, but it is is no more magical on GBBR than AEG they do the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davegolf Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 @occidio so it does make sense, a GBB auto volumes, which yes I agree if you fastidiously volume matched an AEG cylinder you could achieve ‘nearly’ the same affect AKA joule creep. I say ‘nearly’ because there is something about the way a GBB accelerates a BB, until the floating valve closes. AEGs simply cannot accelerate the BB in the same manor, I think this is down to the short stroke of an AEGs piston, circa 40mm. As such to get DMR FPS the spring is very strong, so the BB is ‘popped’ more than accelerated. A BASR has a much longer stroke allowing for better acceleration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBear Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 4 hours ago, Reap said: It sure is a dark bronze, it’s lovely infact. Yup it sure does look nice..... it's similar to the madbull colour if not the same... they probably use the same RAL codes? The fundamental problem with the Mk18 MWS is that the hop rubber can't be changed easily coz you can't get the bloody rail off and ergo the barrel out. That is correct yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davegolf Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Yup, id personally sooner buy a bog standard MWS and make my own MK18 without PITA parts. quango2k and SSPKali 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBear Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 20 minutes ago, Davegolf said: Yup, id personally sooner buy a bog standard MWS and make my own MK18 without PITA parts. Exactly what I have gone and done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reap Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Unfortunately I bought the MK18 before we knew about the dreaded barrel nut, however I’m not rushing into upgrading, I have a SixG brass nub from Dave which has sat in my draw since November, I’m kind of learning from other people mistakes before I attempt it, this one largely comes down to having the correct tools for the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBear Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Yeah that’s true. Once the correct tool becomes available we will all have a laugh about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quango2k Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Hi all, I read somewhere that the Magpul RS trigger guard doesnt fit the MWS...is that right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsmithski Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 DIY cheap ass ambi fire selector can be made using this piecehttps://a.aliexpress.com/_m0ttzQD all you need is a dremel, a 2.5mm drill bit and a m3 threading tool to make the Marui selector right hand side end flush with the new dial. DIY ambi mag release coming up one day, once I find the right, ridiculously cheap “release paddle”. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quango2k Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 1 hour ago, quango2k said: Hi all, I read somewhere that the Magpul RS trigger guard doesnt fit the MWS...is that right? Also, I think I read the mag release is non standard too so if you wanted to just change the button to a Magpul, they are different threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMDavis Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 1 hour ago, quango2k said: Also, I think I read the mag release is non standard too so if you wanted to just change the button to a Magpul, they are different threads? I can confirm the Magpul enlarged mag release button definitely doesn't fit the TM mag release. Different threads for sure. 😔 Currently got one sat in my parts box gathering dust... quango2k 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsmithski Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 4 minutes ago, RMDavis said: I can confirm the Magpul enlarged mag release button definitely doesn't fit the TM mag release. Different threads for sure. 😔 Currently got one sat in my parts box gathering dust... What’s the difference? Bigger thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now