THE TM MWS thread

[gunbod007]

Buffer spring accident.

 

So I reassembled the gun and forgot to put the BCG back in. The buffer shot forwards into the upper and that made for a fun 30 mins wiggling it out. Had to use some small tools, applying pressure, trying to PUSH the buffer back into the tube, PULL it forward into the receiver and even a little bit of twisting. Doesn't visibly look damaged but obviously a very important component. How likely are these to get damaged easily in this situation?

 

Note for my earlier Full auto problems I did this mistake after those problems occurred.

[jsmithski]

When this ever happen again just punch out (use pin punch) the front pin and separate receivers.

[demandt]

Looks like Model Work Custom is producing what seems like a pretty decent 7075 Forged Lower for the MWS. Anyone here have experience with Model Work Custom? I could be interested in getting one.

 

 

[gunbod007]

14 hours ago, jsmithski said:

When this ever happen again just punch out (use pin punch) the front pin and separate receivers.

I tried this with my fingers and it wasn't having any of it. Which is strange because usually no problem.

[quango2k]

1 hour ago, gunbod007 said:

I tried this with my fingers and it wasn't having any of it. Which is strange because usually no problem.

I did the same, just pushed out the front pin with a little tap. Easy

[gunbod007]

7 minutes ago, quango2k said:

I did the same, just pushed out the front pin with a little tap. Easy

Thanks, will make a note. But as per the OP are the recoil springs sensitive. Seems pretty beefy so I am assuming I probably didn't cause any damage.

[quango2k]

50 minutes ago, gunbod007 said:

Thanks, will make a note. But as per the OP are the recoil springs sensitive. Seems pretty beefy so I am assuming I probably didn't cause any damage.

If it looks ok, its ok

[Crazy_Crystal]

So I notice that g&p have released an extended P-Mag for the MWS.... Has anyone managed to test one, and if so how does it compare to the other P-mags out there for consistency?

 

https://shop.jkarmy.com/g-p-g-mag-long-ver-for-marui-tm-mws-gbbr-system-black-magazine-p-mag-style.html

[Kerberos]

Same here, I had bought the SixG nub months in advance of buying an MWS after extensive research. Bought the MK.18 so I would have the option of using the Mk18, or swapping to my Block II rail, then the barrel nut stopped me. I have a proper tool, a heatgun, and an AR clamp, but I'm nervous how much heat I should be applying. I don't want to melt or damage anything internally, if that's even possible. Do people remove the 6 hex screws holding the rail to the body before they try unscrewing the barrel nut? 

 

Also, I know it's a dumb question, but it IS lefty loosey, right? I don't want to find out I've actually been tightening the thing...

[Cyberlawyer]

So I managed to pick up a mildly abused lower to match up with my spare upper so I will have 3 complete MWS in 10” 14” and 18” barrel lengths.

My question to the collective is that this lower has had dummy anti-rotation latches fitted to it. (It is the absolute appalling manner that these were fitted in that is the cause of the abuse). Pretty sure I can fix the damage and refinish the lower to the point it will be invisible, but the original punch pin is missing. Having been replaced by the threaded rod for the latches. Any one have any experience with these? are they OK or should I make the effort to reinstate the original punch pin?

[gunbod007]

2 hours ago, Crazy_Crystal said:

So I notice that g&p have released an extended P-Mag for the MWS.... Has anyone managed to test one, and if so how does it compare to the other P-mags out there for consistency?

 

https://shop.jkarmy.com/g-p-g-mag-long-ver-for-marui-tm-mws-gbbr-system-black-magazine-p-mag-style.html

Now that I would love to try

[JSwan]

I’m not sure if it’s been mentioned in the previous posts but has anybody had any luck fitting those ranger style plates to the bottom of the MWS mags? They look like they would fit but would cover up the fill valve

[gunbod007]

8 minutes ago, JSwan said:

I’m not sure if it’s been mentioned in the previous posts but has anybody had any luck fitting those ranger style plates to the bottom of the MWS mags? They look like they would fit but would cover up the fill valve

Bada bing has a video where he disassembles his ags and he says he doesn't think you will get one on. But that isn't 100% as he didn't actually try it.

 

[JSwan]

2 minutes ago, gunbod007 said:

Bada bing has a video where he disassembles his ags and he says he doesn't think you will get one on. But that isn't 100% as he didn't actually try it.

Thanks bud, will have a look at the video. I am not massively technical so if he says you can’t then I won’t be trying it, not with the price and shortage of mags at the moment haha 

[gunbod007]

Abbey or Nuprol 

 

Is this chart remotely right?

 

Abbey 144a = Nuprol 1

Abbey Ultra = Nuprol 2

Abbey Vertex = Nuprol 3,4

 

I feel like maybe the abbey is slightly weaker than the nuprol but I have been scratching my head as everyone has a different favourite gas.

 

Anyone with actual experience with these two? I am thinking to go Ultra by abbey or Nuprol 2 for everyday unless very hot or very cold

 

P.S thanks to anyone putting up with an MWS noob and all my noonish comments. I have been trying to scroll through the 160 pages and It is really useful! best forum th

 

[Cyberlawyer]

My personal experience is that Abby Ultra is a bit weaker than Nuprol 2, but the MWS is pretty gas efficient so runs well on both. I prefer Nuprol 2, (or 3 or 4 in certain conditions), but it depends what you have available.

 

I do have a couple of metal slide pistols that run like crap on Abby Ultra, but will chug away all day on Nuprol 2, hence my preference.

[gunbod007]

3 minutes ago, Cyberlawyer said:

My personal experience is that Abby Ultra is a bit weaker than Nuprol 2, but the MWS is pretty gas efficient so runs well on both. I prefer Nuprol 2, (or 3 or 4 in certain conditions), but it depends what you have available.

 

I do have a couple of metal slide pistols that run like crap on Abby Ultra, but will chug away all day on Nuprol 2, hence my preference.

And can I ask what sort of FPS you get with the Nuprol or Ultra without any npas or regulator for it?

[Cyberlawyer]

In all honesty I have no idea, I don’t thing I ever chronoed them before I fitted an npas.

[gunbod007]

9 minutes ago, Cyberlawyer said:

In all honesty I have no idea, I don’t thing I ever chronoed them before I fitted an npas.

fair enough, trying to avoid messing with an npas if possible. I think the Abbey ultra should be fine.

[Cyberlawyer]

I’d recommend an npas to regulate performance variations based on temperature. Over the last summer (during the small window you could get a game) it was so hot green gas was running too hot to pass chrono.

 

It is a bit of a pain to set up every game day, but much more precise and way cheaper than carrying multiple cans of gas. I will use 2.0 95%of the time and only switch to red/black gas if it is very chilly.

[gunbod007]

30 minutes ago, Cyberlawyer said:

I’d recommend an npas to regulate performance variations based on temperature. Over the last summer (during the small window you could get a game) it was so hot green gas was running too hot to pass chrono.

 

It is a bit of a pain to set up every game day, but much more precise and way cheaper than carrying multiple cans of gas. I will use 2.0 95%of the time and only switch to red/black gas if it is very chilly.

Okay thanks, I know there is a doc with recommend npas but out of interest which one are you using?

 

What was putting me off, was hearing that they can actually be quite inconsistent 

 

Also are your BCG and nozzle spring stock or upgraded to handle the gas?

[Cyberlawyer]

I’m using the black MWS one. Most of my gun is stock internally my only internal upgrades are inner barrel, hop rubber, hop hub and npas and that’s it. 
 

I have a 450 FPS DMR as one of my MWS’ and in terms of performance the above list (with a long inner barrel) is all it took. 

[Reap]

14 hours ago, Kerberos said:

Same here, I had bought the SixG nub months in advance of buying an MWS after extensive research. Bought the MK.18 so I would have the option of using the Mk18, or swapping to my Block II rail, then the barrel nut stopped me. I have a proper tool, a heatgun, and an AR clamp, but I'm nervous how much heat I should be applying. I don't want to melt or damage anything internally, if that's even possible. Do people remove the 6 hex screws holding the rail to the body before they try unscrewing the barrel nut? 

 

Also, I know it's a dumb question, but it IS lefty loosey, right? I don't want to find out I've actually been tightening the thing...

yes it’s counterclockwise to loosen, where did you get the tool from? I have the heat gun, but I want a tool that fits all 4 teeth so that the pressure is applied evenly, at the moment I’m leaning towards making one myself with a bit of grinding and welding.

[Andropheonix]

Sorry to slide in here my dudes, I'm going to be buying a TM M4A1 MWS on Thursday (First GBBR in the collection), did a lot of research before committing to it, I did read that if you want to use green gas you need an upgraded valve blocker or you'll be in trouble when the OEM part breaks, so I managed to get the Dynamic Precision reinforced aluminum valve blocker, 2 quick questions if anyone has time.

 

1. Is there a video or guide floating round (I did do a quick forum search) that I can follow for installing it?

2. Should the rubber hose that goes inside the spring be slightly smaller than the spring? Looking at mine, it's not so it doesn't look like the spring will ever be able to retract fully... 

 

Cheers, gents!

[Cyberlawyer]

Personally I can’t say I have ever used one and all of my guns have seen plenty of red and black gas as well as green. Only upgrade I have made to the BGC is an npas to regulate FPS and I keep a couple of spare Nozzle return springs on hand as they can go (although they can last ages, it’s a bit of a lottery).

 

I’d run it stock for a while and only install the upgrades if the OEM parts break.