THE TM MWS thread

[Marroksteel]

22 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:

Well my G&p buffer kit arrived today and it must be me but I've had a nightmare with it, I've two options: either no bolt lock as the buffer tube is wound nearly all the way in with two threads remaining or wound all the way out so it can move up and down and jam on the lower causing a gas out then giving me the final two finger salute by stopping me from lifting the upper from the lower by protruding too far forward and not catching on the spring buffer retaining (stop?) So I have to remove the buffer tube to get it out.

 

additionally the modify tan hop rubber with super G nub does not seem to be as good as the original tm one to me the best I can get is an 80 to 90 mm group at 20 m. I'm going back to the original hop rubber with super G nub.

Winner winner chicken dinner!

 

Suggestions, queries, comments? Or commiserations?

 

Well I have 4 different buffer tubes and all of the buffers I have fit G&P, RA-Tech, Prowin, Angry Gun the tube brands are Geissele, G&P, Hao, and stock so ether your doing to wrong or I'm just lucky.

19 hours ago, AlphaBear said:

Do you mean this dildo shaped object is giving you a mare? I read somewhere to swap out the silicon knob end with a harder plastic end. I'm not if the Marui buffer end piece will fit into it though?

 

 

 

[Wild Weasel]

1 hour ago, Marroksteel said:

 

Well I have 4 different buffer tubes and all of the buffers I have fit G&P, RA-Tech, Prowin, Angry Gun the tube brands are Geissele, G&P, Hao, and stock so ether your doing to wrong or I'm just lucky.

 

Yep, I'm doing something wrong. Like I say I can get it to run ok with the g&p buffer but without bolt lock back.

[Davegolf]

Is your buffer tube screwed in too far?

[Kerberos]

Hi, I finally took the dive and upgraded myself from a WE M4 gbbr to the TM Mk18 Mod 1. I was trying to access the hop up, but I can't get the outer barrel or rails off. Is there a specific tool I need for this or are there any guides for the mk18 yet?

[Wild Weasel]

11 hours ago, Davegolf said:

Is your buffer tube screwed in too far?

I've just been on to William Hicks who got me started on this GnP buffer thing -

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/B-YS5wfnIkX/?igshid=xsep5da90p6o

 

the problem in short was bolt lock could not be achieved because one, I'm a twatt and two, I had the buffer tube wound out far too far as I could not get bolt lock and ended up winding out to far  causing the GnP buffer to get stuck - I'm now wound all the way in and it has solved my problem.

He recommends a rubber washer at the bottom of the TM original buffer tube to prevent the rubber on the buffer being chewed up too.

 

Another point he made to me was check the BCG screws are tight or you can end up like his mate here...

Edited November 22, 2020 by Wild Weasel
Added ig link

[jsmithski]

3 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:

I've just been on to William Hicks who got me started on this GnP buffer thing -

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/B-YS5wfnIkX/?igshid=xsep5da90p6o

 

the problem in short was bolt lock could not be achieved because one, I'm a twatt and two, I had the buffer tube wound out far too far as I could not get bolt lock and ended up winding out to far  causing the GnP buffer to get stuck - I'm now wound all the way in and it has solved my problem.

He recommends a rubber washer at the bottom of the TM original buffer tube to prevent the rubber on the buffer being chewed up too.

 

Another point he made to me was check the BCG screws are tight or you can end up like his mate here...

This can happen when you screw in the buffer tube to much or you use green gas and the bolt travels with a higher speed and force. For the top screw there’s not much you can do (I’ve compressed the buffer tube spring to make it stiffer), for the two side dents you need to either screw out the buffer tube or cut off few threads like I did so it does not protrude that much making contact with the bolt.

[Wild Weasel]

1 hour ago, jsmithski said:

This can happen when you screw in the buffer tube to much or you use green gas and the bolt travels with a higher speed and force. For the top screw there’s not much you can do (I’ve compressed the buffer tube spring to make it stiffer), for the two side dents you need to either screw out the buffer tube or cut off few threads like I did so it does not protrude that much making contact with the bolt.

Now that I have a reliable bolt lock I'm going to pack out the bottom of the buffer tube with washers to compress the spring a bit more a' la' hsb buffer style.

[Reap]

7 hours ago, Kerberos said:

Hi, I finally took the dive and upgraded myself from a WE M4 gbbr to the TM Mk18 Mod 1. I was trying to access the hop up, but I can't get the outer barrel or rails off. Is there a specific tool I need for this or are there any guides for the mk18 yet?

I’m fairly new to this stuff, but I think if you lock the bolt back you can access the hop-up via the mag well

[jsmithski]

53 minutes ago, Wild Weasel said:

Now that I have a reliable bolt lock I'm going to pack out the bottom of the buffer tube with washers to compress the spring a bit more a' la' hsb buffer style.

Yeah, just make sure there is enough space inside the washer for the buffer.

[ajumma]

1 hour ago, Reap said:

I’m fairly new to this stuff, but I think if you lock the bolt back you can access the hop-up via the mag well

I assume he means to change the bucking or nub? I haven't got any experience with the mk18 but I assume there are a few screw securing the handguard to the barrel nut which need to be removed to slide the handguard off. Then the barrel nut can be torqued off using the appropriate wrench.

 

Having to take my glove off and awkwardly finger my magwell to adjust the hop sucks though. Sure once you've done it a few times it be comes quite easy, but if you're someone with thicker hands or short fingers, it would REALLY suck. 

 

edit: so apparently the mk18 rail is two parts? You have to take the lower part off, and then the upper part via screws at the rear of the handguard or something

[Davegolf]

7 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:

He recommends a rubber washer at the bottom of the TM original buffer tube to prevent the rubber on the buffer being chewed up too.

 

 

4 hours ago, jsmithski said:

This can happen when you screw in the buffer tube to much or you use green gas and the bolt travels with a higher speed and force. For the top screw there’s not much you can do (I’ve compressed the buffer tube spring to make it stiffer), for the two side dents you need to either screw out the buffer tube or cut off few threads like I did so it does not protrude that much making contact with the bolt.

 

https://sixgunsmithing.com/2019/07/07/sixg-hsb-high-speed-buffer/

 

[Hypokondrikern]

Any reviews / thoughts on the prowin ar9 kit?

[Wild Weasel]

3 hours ago, Davegolf said:

 

 

https://sixgunsmithing.com/2019/07/07/sixg-hsb-high-speed-buffer/

 

Definitely on my want list but I've spent way, way to much recently so I'm going to hold off with this for a bit.  incidentally is this likely to affect bolt lock because it will have the same effect as winding the buffer tube even further in would it not?

[Davegolf]

Depends on what other mods you are running.

What gas are you on?

What buffer spring are you running?

What weight bolt are you using?

[jsmithski]

1 hour ago, Wild Weasel said:

Definitely on my want list but I've spent way, way to much recently so I'm going to hold off with this for a bit.  incidentally is this likely to affect bolt lock because it will have the same effect as winding the buffer tube even further in would it not?

It will compress the recoil spring, may help when using power gas. It’s also simple to build on your own. I made something similar using sorbopads and washers.

[Kerberos]

10 hours ago, ajumma said:

I assume he means to change the bucking or nub? I haven't got any experience with the mk18 but I assume there are a few screw securing the handguard to the barrel nut which need to be removed to slide the handguard off. Then the barrel nut can be torqued off using the appropriate wrench.

 

Having to take my glove off and awkwardly finger my magwell to adjust the hop sucks though. Sure once you've done it a few times it be comes quite easy, but if you're someone with thicker hands or short fingers, it would REALLY suck. 

 

edit: so apparently the mk18 rail is two parts? You have to take the lower part off, and then the upper part via screws at the rear of the handguard or something

Yes, I've removed the side screws and the rear screws on the mk18 rail. Normally it would just be able to slide off on my old Madbull 12.5 RIS II, but for the TM there's a barrel nut inside the rail, so my normal castle nut wrench can't fit in

[Wild Weasel]

10 hours ago, Davegolf said:

Depends on what other mods you are running.

What gas are you on?

What buffer spring are you running?

What weight bolt are you using?

Gas at the moment in sub 10°c is Mapp pro,

Buffer spring is TM,

Bolt is Hao Econoline with TM weight to further reduce the weight and weighs 146g minus the weight of the TM buffer that is included in that, Buffer is an empty GnP number though I am planning on adding weights to it to help slam the bolt shut twice on impact (loose weighted) and finally I have a GnP lightweight bolt catch plate on order.

 

Current performance:- https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lfmKJtQm-qGtE-EJLlXXixfkon5uT6nDdt7BJOOOb1o/edit?usp=drivesdk

 

Providing all that works out then a hsb seems like a logical step although I do like to keep my (RoF) as realistic as possible without the hassle of picking up brass!

 

Incidentally I've tried a modify tan with the six g nub and cannot see an improvement on the tm, what's your opinion on the Autobot 60° /six g nub/ TM barrel combo please?

Cheers

[Davegolf]

I would guess that your bolt is travelling to fast rearwards potentially. A HSB will slow this down (in a good way) whilst still providing full travel and faster return to battery.

Have you tried it with the stock bolt?

I would run the standard TM buffer unit.

 

The difference between the Modify and TM is marginal, i prefer the TM for longevity.

Autobot 60 has not been tested, you need a bucking with conventional mound to work with the Super Nub.

[AlphaBear]

7 hours ago, Kerberos said:

Yes, I've removed the side screws and the rear screws on the mk18 rail. Normally it would just be able to slide off on my old Madbull 12.5 RIS II, but for the TM there's a barrel nut inside the rail, so my normal castle nut wrench can't fit in

Great Scott!!! So that’s TM’s take on a MK18 rail??? On the look of it that looks ridiculous. Why on earth would they design it in such a way that makes taking the barrel out difficult. There must be something which is missing here??? Surely they could not have been this dim too make it so awkward to change a hop rubber as an example? In a licensed MK18 rail that barrel nut locks the outer barrel in place making it free float but that does not seem to be the case here!!!! Really weird!!!

 

Have you asked anyone on the Marui Recoil/GBB/GBBR Facebook group? 

[Davegolf]

Yes you are correct @AlphaBear, better of buying an MWS and retro fitting a MK18 kit

[Captain Darling]

7 hours ago, Kerberos said:

Yes, I've removed the side screws and the rear screws on the mk18 rail. Normally it would just be able to slide off on my old Madbull 12.5 RIS II, but for the TM there's a barrel nut inside the rail, so my normal castle nut wrench can't fit in

h

 

Yes, I have managed to remove mine with a electric heat gun and 'special tool' I fabribodged at work from some (I think) 26mm OD conduit as seen the the attached pic.  It was quite the horror show, but came off pretty easily once I had got it all clamped in a vice with an AR receiver clam.

 

I shall be letting the tool go with the set when I flog the MK18 rail, barrel nut, flash hider, front sling loop point, rear stock and sights.

 

 

[Arassuil]

11 hours ago, Kerberos said:

Yes, I've removed the side screws and the rear screws on the mk18 rail. Normally it would just be able to slide off on my old Madbull 12.5 RIS II, but for the TM there's a barrel nut inside the rail, so my normal castle nut wrench can't fit in

 

 

I was doing my daily GBBR rounds and have responded to your reddit post also, but same thing here:

This is the same rail that is on the MK18 NGRS and no, you cannot get a wrench around it. I got mine off by using flat head screwdriver in one of the square recesses and a mallet and start tapping down on it (anticlockwise/lefty loosey). It's aliminium and there's no thredlock, but it is tight and mine requried a few solid taps, enough so that it dented it.

 

 

[jsmithski]

You need something like this

[AlphaBear]

9 minutes ago, Arassuil said:

 

 

I was doing my daily GBBR rounds and have responded to your reddit post also, but same thing here:

This is the same rail that is on the MK18 NGRS and no, you cannot get a wrench around it. I got mine off by using flat head screwdriver in one of the square recesses and a mallet and start tapping down on it (anticlockwise/lefty loosey). It's aliminium and there's no thredlock, but it is tight and mine requried a few solid taps, enough so that it dented it.

 

 

The mind boggles 😳. I still can’t get my head around how TM came up with such a design. 
 

Also is this the same way in which a NGRS rail also comes off? 

[Arassuil]

from the picture, it's the same rail they use on the Mk18 NGRS which I have. It's not an issue on the NGRS as you swap barrels and rubbers from the inside. I'm surprised they used the same design on the MWS though due to how you have to change the rubbers