n1ckh

1 fet & 1 Lipo so far, i used the low resistance silver upgrade wire that got hot in cqb, casing melted together & shorted out so that all went in the bin straight after. If I feel the wiring might pinch somewhere then a bit of heatshrink on that area to protect it along with heatshrink on trigger contact joints My mate beastmode melted 1 a fet & battery cause his wires pinched, so I sorted that for him then tested it all with one of my fets. Just my SA80 needs one now but I'll wait for a while to do that

Laser cutting is far more accurate & leaves cleaner lines

That's my point, skoda have got better compared to what they were like years ago & given time then Ares should/will get better

One word to describe Ares & how there changing SKODA

Depending on the environment, if I'm indoors then it's full face & helmet but if I'm outdoors then it depends if I wear goggles or full face with a boonie, helmet or bare head & also depends if it's woodland, open ground or with buildings

I'm glad I read it cause now I know marui parts are compatible with my kjw g23

Do yourself a favour dude Get the JG G36C from taiwangun, its a great gun, cheap & you get a hi capacity magazine with it Use the free downgrade service, your kept in the loop from dispatch to delivery. I have one & after 15 months now, the polymer piston has to be changed from wear & tear

Certainly made it a little better & will sand down the slide rails aswell but I have to see what happens once I'm out in the cold weather Think I may go with a 130% or 150% spring & see how it goes

Send in your driving licence or passport as proof of identification & a few household bills (telephone, water, gas or electricity will do) as proof of address Your driving licence will have your address to backup utility bills aswell Dont send copies as they can be faked & may not be accepted

I've had it going on a little while now but & it happens when it's warm or cold I sanded the part that pushes the hammer back & it still does it, I also sanded the black finish off the slide rails & again no joy I'll give the trick in the photo a try & see what happens

Been having a problem with my Glock for a little while now the problem is that the slide will not fully fly forward & gets stuck around the hammer area It's well maintained (cleaned & oiled after every game day as is my M1911) & I put a 6mm spacer ring on the recoil spring & guide to see if that worked but it hasn't. I use green gas in both pistols(the 1911 is full metal) but want to use a gas a bit more stronger but because it's a polymer slide, I don't want it destroyed Could I try a stronger recoil spring & where can I get them from & could I use a stronger spring from a different pistol manufacturer ?? Cheers guys

I have found in all the sites I've been to (6 sites so far) 4 have used the same chrono device (don't know the name but its the big yellow box chrono's) & my rifles have all been under the limit & the other 2 are primarily paintball sites so they use a paintball chrono & this throws your fps reading right out. My brother is an airsoft retailer & has told me that white BB's or direct sunlight can affect the reading of your bb. If a site is non-bio then I don't use white bb's for those reasons (also makes them difficult to see when taking incoming fire) & bio bb's are not white from the ones I use

These seem to be common faults with this rifle, I played a game day where a kiddie only had his ICS L85 & was having issues before the day began. It was all due to the trigger unit & a little lever would click & jump off but he had it repaired twice & was seeking for a refund

If I was going to go the micro switch route in my aeg's then I was toying (see what I've done there lol, please don't hurt me) with using the long tail switch. You can use spade connectors on the contacts & after a bit of grinding & placement, bend the tail if needed onto the trigger

From habit, my safety catch comes off when game starts & goes back on when I'm hit respawning, I'll do this all day Rifle is always unloaded on route to safe zone but pistol is always made ready (magazine in but not cocked with safety on) My ICS dropped to 260 after a year of abuse so if it's still under warranty then send it back mate

Even with gas your snookered if there's a power cut & the spark ignitor doesn't work as not many non smokers will have matches or a lighter in the property (which they should for this very reason) I have windproof matches, a lighter & fire steel in a tin in my combat jacket

A mate of mine spent a number of hours using a computer program to design a spacer for his E&L AK as he says the magwell on these can be a problem He says he's made/making a PDF for other people with the same rifles so they can get one 3d printed. I think it's costing him about £6 in total to have it done

Glad to hear I'm not the only one to do it last time I did it, the guy said he stood there staring at it thinking it should be fizzing & then someone popped him & another guy he did say he'll try it I do it when I've run out of pyros aswell

Something I do which does work at getting people running is throw a used paper pyro & shout grenade, it throws people off guard & then they get shot by someone/anyone Its just to clarify that I do it to throw people of guard & to scatter. Its for no other reason & people always say to me after what a funny idea it is & say fairplay. No ones ever accused me of cheating or said you can't do that

I use plastidip for waterproofing my electronic throttle unit in my rc cars & boats plus the servos for steering etc In airsoft, about the only thing you could use it for is the soldered contacts on the trigger units & solder joints of battery connectors before heatshrink is applied but if your that worried about water getting in, insulation tape around the seems of gearbox With the deans connector, I put bigger heatshrink over the connector & solder joints (obviously each solder joints has heatshrink) to reduce water getting in

Imo if it don't go bang then it's not a hit All sites I've played at so far so say paper pyros can be thrown over arm (if they hit you then it won't hurt) reusable grenades are thrown under arm long as it's not towards someone's head So simple fact for me is player B is a cheat for not taking it, wether it's below knee or not However, some sites may have that rule & you should not assume other sites play with the same rules so "if in doubt, ask a Marshall" use of grenades etc should always be explained in the safety brief & if you weren't listening for any reason then it's your problem (and I'm not referring to you personally mate lol)

Pretty much where I position mine If it's right up against your eye, you get a blind spot like you do with car mirrors cause the sight/red dot is in the way

If he's got a programmable charger then put on balance charge (set the MAH cut off to the MAH rating on the battery) & charge at 0.1 amps (basicly trickle charge) until the display reads 3.60v in each cell & then change to normal charge rate If it's way below 3v then its fooked completely

I use an eotech 552 on my M4 & my acog on my SA80. The point of a red dot is so you can keep both eyes open & also for quick acquisition. I keep both eyes open & both red dots are away from my eyes, I can keep the dot on target while being able to look around The susat on an SA80 is being phased out in favour of the acog & elcan sights

End of last month, I lent my L85 to a player because his ICS l85 was having similar problems, a little lever would jump where the trigger unit is located that would give him intermittent trigger response, a few of us looked at it & suggested something had to be done to that little lever & the fire selector rod (from fire selector on rear of rifle to the trigger unit) I can't tell you what they suggested but I suggested a little bit of cardboard be placed under the little lever