Sitting Duck

I'm sure these easy ways to work stuff out is pretty damn accurate & no calculator or degree in mathematical engineering required I have checked them and the gears ratio saves a major headache indeed (unless you love counting up tiny teeth - 21 22 23 23 - no crap start again 1 2 3) Count amount of turns on bevel gear to rotate the sector gear 1 full revolution & multiply by 3 checked this against stock, high speed & high torque gears - works out very well and finally figured out wtf all them 100:200 & 100:300 gears bloody mean as well Then just recently noticed how the port on cylinder kind of works out right without all that Pi r ² crap working out volumes of cylinder & barrel and ratios etc.... So please have a look and if your own gun is running well see if the cylinder port bit makes sense eg: length to port minus 12mm aprox = say 30mm.... multiply that final figure by ten - yeah I think you shouldn't need calculator for that one = 300mm barrel for that port position yes there a few variables eg: Tight Bore & Bore up kits but in general these will only throw out figures on volume ratio by about 1% to 1.5% max on each variable.... I have checked this against a few cylinders that are for certain barrels and it works out very well indeed (it is that simple to me I dunno why peeps bother with old π r ² x cylinder/barrel length) plus some programs for calculating ratios are not easy to understand or don't seem to work out right to me (bit where you enter or measure cylinder length or port is a little unclear to me) plus people saying oh yeah a 3/4 cylinder is for 363 to 410 - wtf ? 3/4 is not exactly very pinpoint accurate and range of nearly 2 inches is also a little wide too ffs I think it is nigh on there with the 12mm figure subtraction is about correct - but the cylinder should have AOE done (Should really do AOE anyway is the general feeling) This adds aprox 4-5mm to say 6mm on cylinder head inside the cylinder itself - never mind go with 12mm for now ffs (O-ring sits aprox 2mm back from piston and is what creates the seal really so just go for 12mm - trust me) anyway here are the pics that should be speak for themselves give us any feedback if you can though chaps..... & cheers for any feedback even if I am talking out of my ar$e one more Just thought if anybody was putting together a gearbox these could come in handy to suss out what gear ratio you putting in there (in case you forgot or lost the packet they came in) and also if you got a cylinder knocking about but unsure what barrel it is supposed to be used with etc.... Yes they ain't 101% accurate but imho these 2 quick tests are bloomin' close without all the maths EDIT - make that figure aprox 15mm NOT 12mm - my very bad 12mm is piston but aprox 3mm further back from piston is center of O-ring which in effect is where the compression is created or rather not created until it passes the end of port - therefore it is the O-ring's start & finish or travel is what we are trying to work out So measure front of cylinder to port and subtract 15mm not 12mm - then multiply by 10 = ideal barrel range chaps EDIT - 2018, after reviewing my crap I revised this to 15mm for 0.20's and say 20mm subtraction for say heavier 0.30's

+1 likey for da motor - I need to get some more too & replace the ferrite ones on some of mine (great rof & improvement all round once deans & fet'd even on lower juice batteries)

Thanks for clearing that up about age & ukara Everybody on here is from all different ranges of Airsoft spectrum, and I am just not much more than a humble noob myself PatrolBase certainly know a LOT more about different guns than I will ever know (though always thought lopping coils off spring is a little tight & noobish as coils won't align correctly flat unless you do some work on the end you cut - ffs just fit a lower spring is the norm) I only have cheapo budget guns so can't comment on those 3 middle range guns - except the 416 you are paying a fair bit for trademarks (there is a WE version at LWA for £250 without tm's and if you get ukara you can get stuff even cheaper at gunfire.pl - BI-8001 is about £150 full metal) though the last gun tell them to downgrade spring as it is 390fps - but they do this for free - needs a few tweaks as hop is meeeh and standard mag is $hit but very cheap alternative - who is gonna know out on field if you got trademarks or not but that is just my cheapskate opinion (many on here have the higher end guns and perhaps one day I may treat myself to a Tokyo Mauri or something that performs great out of the box......) All I say is you probably will go with a couple of guns in the end - a cheap spare aeg and a pistol (gas blow back) plus an extensive loadout & bits n bobs - spare mags, batteries, BFG's - it all adds up if you go the whole mile To each their own but whatever aeg you get you will get taken out by the lower end guns from time to time you be out-ranged by bolt action snipers & they will be out-ranged by other upgraded snipers The gun you buy/use will depend on when you play woodland or cqb - or get a longer barrel M4 & spare shorter cqb one (add shotgun/pistol for some cqb sites - and at these sites range is not such an issue of course so you could get by very cheaply) All I would say its like passing ya driving test, you don't have to buy a BMW first car, many go for something a little less and work their way up But if you can afford it then by all means buy what you feel you want to as it is your money in the end Just letting you know it can really add up/get out of control - even if you stick to lower budget stuff let alone better mid range stuff Dunno what gun you been using/hiring but best advice - especially if purchasing a £200+ gun is see if you can pop along to local shopor at very least try and hold/fire a few shots from some other players guns at your local site first and ask them 20 questions about their guns do they think it was a good buy, reliable, easy/comfortable to use etc... Deffo try out a few guns first if buying higher end stuff to ensure you really do like that gun & can get on with it (amount of people that bought snipers thinking they could do that but found out it is not really for them) Don't rush out and buy any higher priced gun thinking it must be good coz its £xxx - yes often they are but not always

have you played yet ? - £300 for a starter gun are you 18 and aim to get ukara - or you gonna buy a £300 2-tone there are LOADS of guns/shops out there and you could easily get away with some decent starter gun for half that money there are new player guides - read Ian's airsoft on a budget and a few others £300 gun - add at least £100+ onto that for battery/charger basic loadout to gun with your higher mid end gun (probably way way more than £100 if you got such a good looking gun then you yourself wanna look the part too) Land Warrior Airsoft, Fire Support, Zero One, Airsoftworld.net - there's 4 very good places in top 10 airsoft shops in UK but I feel I would perhaps half my gun budget if I was a newcomer to the sport - £150 buys you a pretty decent starter gun but is up to you in the end

deans & mosfet - perhaps a programmable one like Gate BUT wait until it needs an overhaul ffs - it should just work sweet out of the box I got a TT FHawk that is still running fine and has seen lots of regular use if it ain't broke - don't try to fix (or tweak) it

this guy will issue you a ukara license

cheers for that - thought it was a aeg or something else - doh my bad inexperience according to these guys..... http://www.airsoftsniperparts.com/identifyyourrifle.htm ASG Steyr SSG 69 P2 Very much a starter rifle. No dedicated upgrades are available for this rifle. Most owners tend to undertake DIY modifications to get this rifle performing. AVOID! only thing I could find was a 500fps spring at JD Airsoft or something think best leave it as is and just use a cheap run of the mill AEG or other more upgrade/downgrade sniper then (suppose you could cut a few coils off but that is a bit of a bodge and ya lose ya 425 spring maybe an aeg spring might fit/stretch it but seems a bit of trial and error) if its all working out ok - keep it as is then & just use one of ya AEG's maybe Can't work out why a site would state a sniper would have to be same range as AEG's unless there ain't a MED like ya trying to use it in CQB in which case get a shotgun but site saying snipers have to be 350 & not 450 with MED is a little odd to me

m100 or m105 you probably got a m130 or 135 in there atm go with m100 just in case if your site is strict on chrono @ 350 max m100 outputs 328fps aprox - 100metres per second hence the m100 rating I say aprox coz springs vary and not uncommon for them to produce a touch over this plus a gun with great seals/ratio/good hop will be more efficient that one that is worn or crap

blimey no dimensions on that page which is weird for component shop... However a ROUGH guide going by stick 9.6v = 8 in a line "should" equate to an APROX 120mm x 37mm x 18mm size of nunchuck battery side by side HOWEVER it is only a ROUGH GUIDE - YOU need to check as you have battery already (digital calipers are brilliant tool for measuring up if crap will fit btw) It is YOUR responsibility to check if YOUR battery will fit I'm afraid grab a rule/tape measure and see for yourself - don't go by what I say or anybody else as your battery may be a little different and spec/sizes are only ever to be taken as a guide anyway failing all that if you really can't wait to use it - Duct tape is your new best friend yeah it's a bodge but loads of peeps just say wtf and fix all sorts of stuff to their guns actually electricians tape is slightly better as it leaves less sticky residue when removed forget sticking it on with just bit of tape - wrap a whole turn of tape on it and back again (tape to tape or overlapping tape sticks like $hit to a blanket - trust me it does stick well) don't need to go nutz - just tape 2 or 3 rings on there as long as they overlap - say 1.5/2 turns it will hold good

if ya got a great uncle "dude" kind of relative.... Maybe ya mum/dad has a brother that never really grew up & settled down and is up for a laugh he can get ukara & he can then purchase stuff Other than that - ergh no I'm afraid soz but they are the guidelines retailers have to abide by especially when it comes to selling RIF's (non 2-tone guns) 2 tone is fine btw, in fact there is a bit of fun shooting a pro with a cheaper 2 tone gun yup you might not blend in well in woodland sites but that orange could be "disguised" shall we say CQB sites it matters very little what colour ya gun is some places's 2-tone is a little more subtle than others..... some use less vivid blue or less bright green when they 2-tone plus you can - ahem disguise this if you chose to (this is against the VCRA so you/parents would be breaking the law especially with no defense - FACT !!!!!!) I'm pointing the above bit it to clarify that neither me or this forum are saying it will be fine & legal to proceed with it IT DOES STILL BREAK THE LAW if you are are u18 without a defense to paint a gun from Imitation Firearm to a Realistic IF (u18 still can't buy even a 2-tone gun so your parents have to agree to buy & "gift" it you but they can't buy a RIF without defense) Your parents can buy a 2-tone gun but not a RIF - that is just the way it is (think airsoft is still banned in Australia & US players are trying to fight a bill to change all AEG's to orange after recent shootings with airsoft guns) So it may not be ideal but it could be a LOT worse And finally don't think anybody will sell you one either as the seller/retailer would breaking the law and would have their own membership revoked on top of any legal proceedings against them Think that should answer your question

Yup agree with Gun B over volume can produce really weird results or joule creep if the cylinder to barrel volume ratio is out...... The whole ratio and getting correct cylinder/barrel can be a nightmare to work out from scratch and even some apps/programs that are supposed to help can be open to weird misunderstandings as it is the port that dictates the volume of air generated and some "3/4" cylinders are different to other "3/4" In reality to working out volume ratios there is not a great deal of difference in cylinder diameters and using a tbb barrel or std BEFORE anybody jumps in a tbb increases fps etc..... I never said that - I said a tbb hardly changes the maths in working out the ratio or air the tbb however makes the gun perform more efficiently and increase in fps & tighter groupings (but does not change the ratio by hardly anything - aprox 1.5% - which is FA compared to wrong cylinder port used for barrel) But yeah seen first hand the odd effects of say using a 363 cylinder on a 225 barrel - way over volume & low fps on .2's might need to run some tests on that with heavier bb's as it could be prone to joule creep like you said I dunno what the answer is to the chrono - there are numerous ways to cheat or bend the chrono stats (not saying what you said was cheating chrono at all) but think the old set in stone chrono method is perhaps the more basic simple method that most peeps go with but is perhaps not completely perfect or flawless - bit like ukara/vcra I suppose but can't see the sites willing to change or adapt their chrono tests as they just want to run a quick check & get on with it It can be tweaked/cheated by incorrect volume ratio but still look legit or lamer on .2's like you said but shoot higher on heavier bb's - same as hop on/off gives different results so yeah far from perfect but can't see sites wanting to change or deviate from the normal quick chrono Chrono's can be open for question or tweaking/bending the results but a rough chrono is better than a site not using a chrono I guess (even if that does mean some results are not true accurate reflections of muzzle velocity in game with different weight of ammo)

They work very well in my G&G, ICS, and SRC M4's bought other budget/reasonable priced mags and most were crap or not so good so in the end I just bought a few boxes now and lately not even bothered with standard mags that came in box with my guns

if you play mainly woodland maybe long version if you play cqb then get short version perhaps Raiders are dogz nutz for money only about £5 more than carbine but rails galore there isn't that much in it between the 2 tbh - only minor tiny thing is dust cover pulls down to adjust the hop rather than drop down with a pull on handle but no real biggy long/short same price aprox £123 + shipping from zero one a bit more money is the CM18 which is between long/short barrel length but very sexy but for that price you could grab a metal limited edition GC16 MOD0 (alas airsoft is one of them classics where do you start & where do you stop) But yeah Raider L or S can't be beaten imho

here is a post with pics showing pin or lug snapping off: http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=96322.0 but investigate fuse/wiring first and see if you airsoft m8 can "feel" the extra resistance on switch engaging on contacts (hard to describe but if you compare 2 similar guns you do get to feel the slight difference - mainly when trigger is pressed about 60% + you would feel the contacts/switch engaging - slight extra resistance or not if pin snapped) but really hard to guess - run some basic tests first going through the usual process of elimination crap coz it really could be a number of things atm let us know how it goes & consider ordering a cheap G&G perhaps get JG fixed up to use as spare or lend to a m8 who might tag along with ya etc..... Think I made a better neater job than some peeps did - I ended buying a number of fine bolts of various sizes in the end it was either a m1.6 or most likely a M2 bolt - countersink head aprox 7mm long with nut drilled out with fine drill bit in a dremel with flexible end carefully made hole where the snapped bit was applied some thread glue to bolt running into box and fitted tiny nut - sitting nicely flat in line with cut off lever arm Damn - I wish i took some pics of it coz was rather chuffed with myself... then a few months later learnt I didn't think it all up by myself as it is a common problem and very common fix to weak & w@nky box's ANYWAY - might not even be that problem so check fuse & motor out of gun/pistol grip first

Without carrying out a few tests it would be difficult to even get close to a diagnosing the fault tbh What I would do is first remove motor plate on bottom of pistol grip pull motor back away from box and see if it turns.... Chances are probably not as fuse may have blown if motor locked up or if polarity reversed - box won't turn over as anti-reversal latch will prevent it going in reverse As motor is not engaged into box but free spinning then if you don't have a fuse to hand... ONLY IF MOTOR IS NOT IN BOX would i suggest a possible very quick bodge test of shorting fuse JUST TO SEE IF MOTOR TURNS FREELY ON ITS OWN !!!! do not bodge the fuse and attempt to run the motor in its box ffs If motor turns then GET CORRECT FUSE before refitting back into pistol grip !!! If motor does not turn then it is a switch problem most likely and box will need opening to investigate further I reckon The switch itself could be a bad connection or contacts or even mechanical If you was firing on auto then failed to fire on semi - this dead zone should not be forced on the triggeror damage may occur (switch back to auto and fire again then it should of gone past the dead zone - but it might be too late or not related to problem) The "pin" just behind the trigger's resting point could of broke basically the part where it latches onto trigger is yanked up and shoots backwards disengaged from switch contacts and stops on a "pin" or lug but sometimes in bad casting or weld this pin or lug breaks and the switch goes too far back so far back that the trigger can't "relatch" onto the switch coz its gone back too far (this pin or lug is about 5mm to 6mm in height and can often just snap off in really $hit boxes over time) 2 feckin' SRC boxes have done this to me - fixable with a fine bolt but just shows pi$$ poor casting/weld/quality Note - the trigger will feel a little lighter not pushing the switch into contacts any more but still has a spring on it - so unless you know your gun very well you may not notice it that much until you try another gun's trigger perhaps..... That is the mechanical side of it that can fail - happened twice to me but JG box when I looked at it seem much better casting around the stop pin I thought The switch contacts could be iffy but think that is less likely I feel that either the box jammed for some reason & blew fuse out (could still be locked so get correct fuse to test) or quite possible switch mechanism may have failed if all wire checks out ok Best advice - order up a G&G if you need a decent working gun to go skirmishing with when you get back to shore then have a play with JG box or send it off to somebody to investigate - but not mega bollox'd just something small & simple probably failed so no biggy to repair/replace (if too expensive then just replace box in JG and you back in the game) best of luck - we have all been there though I'm no veteran but I had quite a few go tits up on me (always blame the gun not the user)

M130 is usually ya DMR type spring (425 aprox) M150 should put you at 490/500-ish this is on 0.2's shooting correctly but still a rough guide but ya mofo 0.43's certain must be going some on hop to lift that fatty bb so that is where ya 0.2 is way lower on .43 hop setting I reckon ya own chrono comes in very handy when messing/upgrading/servicing ya guns though

get a m8 to go halves with ya: http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/airsoft-magazines-c3/high-capacity-c51/dytac-300rds-bravo-magazine-for-m4-aeg-black-box-of-10-p3058 good mag for a great price

clones don't have shot memory helmetworld I got mine from a while back very very close if not exact same readings as my site's old 3200 chrono (they used to have 3200 but lost the adapter/funnel so big fatty suppressors couldn't get aligned easily so they bought another make) the shop - helmetworld is way overpriced - ffs, plus a discount code I had no longers works the guy on ebay - if ya worried ask him to confirm shot memory blah blah blah I got mine on helmetworld via ebay for £60ish ooooh 10months or so ago

The max fps of a gun will or should be with hop off However the norm is to chrono with hop set & shooting correctly (else it would be right bollock-ache to mess ya hop up to chrono then pi$$ ball about getting it back fine tuned etc...) Big long line of peeps tweaking their guns in the morning I guess Some people may try to cheat chrono a bit on a slightly warm gun by giving it a bit more - thus excess spin will reduce fps My own site suggested (off record) if I could get a 355 down a touch by adjusting chrono to 349/350 basically marshal could not allow a gun over 350 to pass chrono - just doing his job to the letter and I respect that Chrono stats are done on 0.20's as the standard for site rules to ensure we all use guns within the sites own safe limits So yeah - chrono with ya gun shooting correctly like what takes place at ya site 490 it might hitwith hop off, but travel much less, might not even get past 30m MED before it hits the ground so no way would ya hit anybody with ya sniper in that case Good chrono - I have the 3200 btw Reckon you may be putting a load more spin on a heavier BB then when chrono on .20's the excess spin might just might be giving ya lower figure - sounds reasonable I guess But - the .43 Vs .20 is a lot heavier/lighter - wow quite a difference so would of thought the .20 even with a bit extra spin should come out like a bat of hell (Gone Gone Gone - soz couldn't resist that bit) Dunno - sounds right but then it don't when you look at the weight or mass difference that a .20 comes out slower HOW BLOODY LONG IS THAT BARREL OF YOURS - a metre or so ?? (0.20 bb must have gone upwards like a Harrier or Helicopter when it exited barrel with all that hop) The most important thing is for sniper to understand MED whatever bb's they use You are using one heavy mofo bb btw so that is why mental hop & strange difference I'm guessing 490 for a sniper may still be within limits (up to 500 aprox if site agrees or 450 if they don't feel happy with you sniping) but over for a DMR (425 usually) The figures are a rough guide only as all site limits vary

TBH - Buy cheap G&G:(2-tone) Carbine or Raider or CM18 or Mod0 = £120 to £150-ish offset that against hire costs whilst getting ukara'd and getting ya feet wet If you get ukara'd then you probably not that much out of pocket than if you hired plus you got spare should your RIF go tits up (realistic imitation firearm you buy once ukara'd) Failing that if you decide it not for you a G&G 2-tone should be easy to sell on (to an 18yr old) or keep in case you decide to try again at some point But buying a cheap G&G starter is a worthy consideration against renting if you think you may get into it

Various - there a just mess about skirmish sites some a little more serious - and some much more serious/objective mil sim types mostly outdoors - woodland but some inside buildings or CQB even tunnels in near pitch black forget how accurate you might be at target shooting..... These sods move & shoot back and they are expecting you usually split into 2 teams and a variety of games with different objectives some very simple to keep things moving and some fun types some more involved - keep medic alive and eliminate enemy medic or pilot capturing bases/flags closest to flag - oh the list in nearly endless as various sites run different games according to what suits the area and the players enjoyment the odd game may seem pants if it don't seem to working but not often nearly all sites/memebers welcome new players the only thing is to listen to safety briefings and follow the more experienced player's lead or suggestions DBAD - Don't Be A Dick, is the general rule mag out when returning to safe zone (and clear gun) If you think you are hit - even elbow or toe - call it - shout HIT and go to dead zone/respawn We all have to try and play fair or the game just falls apart I still go negative quite often but f*ck ya COD K-D crap just go and have fun and DBAD think there is a site in Billericay but sure there are many more close to you read some New Player guides and check out a list of sites local to you pop along and get shooting

Expect: Become fitter out in fresh air running around SKINT - coz you will always want more toys - 1 gun is never enough Annoyed - should of got into this yonks ago there are 3 things to expect but there's loads more there are some great guides up top and some really great guys on here too (not me coz I'm still a noob - but heck I'm having time of my life) we are all 12yr olds on here trapped in various older bodies young - adult - middle age - well past it (moi) - a right mixed bag some really good players and some not so good (moi again) Oh & welcome to forum

I'm sure something like a Maplin mini-kit LED game can be knocked up then probably wired into say a sound bomb module - very loud 12v alarm bell then this would signal game over if puzzle/bomb disarmed But like gameplay it has to be balanced enough to be a challenge but not impossible Bop-it - one of them devices you can't put down one minute... and then next you wanna smash against the wall "I frggin twisted it ya dumb ass pile of $hit" - AAAArrrrrgggghhhhhhhhh (yeah driven nuts by that sod thanks to my kids) Yeah don't make it too complex if using Simon etc... Picture it now - ya squad leader comes out of the objective.... FFS - can you guys keep it down a bit I'm trying to f*cking concentrate in there but you lot making all the noise keep putting me off can't you lot kill each other a little more quietly or stealthy - jjjjjeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzz

Hmmm - within reason though, Trying to play "Bop it !!!" in the middle of a fire fight is way too friggin' mental to concentrate on but yeah something that requires take/find something, then fight to gain control of area & use that device to arm/disarm well stuff like that but not too crazy or intense that it gets nigh on impossible to complete the objective with average players

Unless you use stuff like Loctite thread glue them piston heads will come undone very soon (Blue is mild, use Red and you may have to dremmel the bitch off next time) another thing is perhaps include a spring washer but still add a drop of blue glue to be sure To be honest they add about 4 gms+ to piston's overall weight & near 5mm spring compression (use a 5mm plastic spacer instead as they don't undo or loosen & disintergrate/scratch cylinder) G&G use these plastic spacers & can be sourced easily on fleabay as plastic marine spacers in various widths/lengths - aprox 15mm diameter x 5mm - centre hole is little small but widen with file/drill or 15mm x 10mm - seems about right size for using shorter pistons in L85 aeg's (3x3mm teeth extra) "Fit a bearing spring guide and drop the piston bearing to save weight on piston" is what I have seen by people aiming for high rof & lightweight pistons/swiss cheese etc.... some complete piston's can be 15gms (no cheese) right up to over 30gms with full steel teeth & bearings All this crap can really add up a bit - plus I feel that much heavier pistons "could" mean greater impact force that "might" increase the chances of gearbox cracking at front/cylinder head area especially on gearbox's that are not radial on the cylinder edges - well that is my gut feeling theory (certainly ain't gonna make it better with 30gms smashing into right angled cornered cylinder casting over time) But Bearing - I never bother with as I will fit bearing spring guide now and leave piston bearing/washers in parts box 1 or 3 steel tooth piston & stay under 20gms is what I now go with - without a piston bearing Hope some of this crap helps - soz can't help ya on ya pistol I'm afraid but yeah I feel ya pain - think we have all been there and any gun can be 1 or 2 shots away from being bollox'ed