Sitting Duck

think a mp5k might be worth a look at over mp7 not really in holster but reckon it could hold up better when needed At least give 'em a bit of hell if they get too close whilst your retreat/last stand when sniping

Ah to hell with it all - just let me m8 rush in first Yeah don't worry I'm right behind ya m8 (if ya still alive) or try the flank & rubber knife/dildo approach

Welcome & no doubt your gun collection will soon grow once ukara'd

Ahhhhh soz didn't know that but yeah probably best cheap and safest upgrade to do if peeps can solder yeah if it ain't broke - something I should remember or remind myself from time to time

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17830-cyma-glock-g18c-aep-also-asg-g18c/ Might be able to buy same gun just called asg for a few quid cheaper in UK perhaps from patrolbase http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-pistols/asg-glock-18c-electric-airsoft-pistol.htm#.VRtIWHVwYm8

Probably got models crossed perhaps a little bit (So bloody many variations on CYMA range) But deffo stuff has jumped since Jan Bought 2 guns at 125€ & 160€ in Jan. Now at Gunfire they are 230€ !!!!!

Normally is more common to see makers "over" volume Then with so so seals in cylinder/piston/nozzle it kinda still works out ok ish. Anyway don't matter too much atm, get box done Then you can try a shorter barrel much later on. But feel it might actually perform a bit better with a shorter and better suited/matched barrel to port Ignore my bollox - we can find out this at a later stage

£15 fixed stubby M4 from fleabay / Hong Kong Or any crane will do if stock tube is OK But I think you will need a new stock tube too if fitting a crane on there coz wasp isn't multi 6 position tube So either fixed stubby or complete crane n tube is what you seek Stubby don't use tube at all so possible cheapest option But mainly available in black and sometimes dark earth Not quite perfect match for tan AEG but hey ho

Wow 35/36mm port. Not being funny but that port should perhaps be a bit further back if your inner barrel is 357/363 approx 2/3rds or 3/4.... I'm no techy guru but if you look at cylinders with port a bit further back they will say is for 360 barrels Plus there are numerous charts to compare/look at The point end bit, at say 35mm should be OK to use with a shorter barrel - really seems like they used Same cylinder port position for shorter 233/275 & your 357 gun Anyway it don't matter atm - getting box sorted first But does seem like cylinder is for maybe better suited for a 233mm CM coz think the port should be Approx 10mm further back if my $hite maths kinda works Or Google up a M4A1 gearbox pic that should have say a 363 barrel on the gun approx, and see just how much further back the cylinder port is on most of them Google some cylinder charts in case anybody thinks I'm talking ultra bollox again

If you stick with 7.4 or 8.4v Then probably cheapest tweak for a slight boost is maybe switch to deans on gun + battery BUT don't go nutz on 9.6, 9.9 or 11.1v without a fet - just keep it moderate 7.4v lipo stock wire and deans will give a slight boost to trigger/ROF All for a couple of quid (As long as you can solder OK) Little boost for little money, go easy on juice and she will be fine without major modding

Even a mp5k can't be that close to the front of box. 99.9% certain they put it in back to front, Mp5k 120mm would have port about 33% That is like less than 20 or 25% from front Only guessing but atm your port is probably 66 to 75% distance from front of cylinder on 360 ish barrel And would be OK for a 300 but maybe not quite matched if you chucked a 230-250 barrel Soz to everybody keep chiming in Must get sick of me waffling (I know I would)

Shoots around 200fps, but that is thing with aep's Many use gas or green gas but you can get leaks and cold weather problems which ain't gonna happen with aep If used for cqb it will be fine, just when people try to use stuff out of its intended comfort or usage zone then they are gonna be disappointed

Can you measure the two covers ?? They say on site it might need a bit of dremmel work for some AK's Thing is if your RS56 cover is shorter/narrower and you not sure about modding your original one or cutting bigger fatter one if still too wide, post up your cover dimensions. I got a couple of metal covers that are too short to replace cheapo plastic CYMA/Spartac covers. These shorter metal covers "might" be OK on your RS56 So you could have 2 to mess around with, take off rail from longer DE cover and drill away without fear of bolloxing your original 56 cover up When done send us back rail less DE cover perhaps if too wide for ya 56 Need to do a measure up first but might save me chucking these in bin and you borking ya 56 cover ?

Really soz for double post but my first few box's were a nightmare...... Mainly coz $hite plastic - ergh was told by some chubby its metal box exploding and bits going everywhere so didn't notice original shimming that AR bastid not going back in and also this super shimming guide.... Got a couple of them "Gearbox Repair Kits" - sounds good idea Well instructions show how to shim etc.... So I followed that to the letter - but this was old method with bevel gear set really low (starting with spur low and the other two shimmed to that - now know that is incorrect) But why wouldn't I follow this guide ? seems to be about right yup Only to find out my bevel is so low its screeching and straining on motor ffs !!!!! Yes I know it is wrong but perhaps along with $hitty boxes explains wtf I had such a nightmare on my first few attempts (not that I am a teching guru - far from it but is a good excuse I use why I bollox'd so much on my first experiences) instructions first: - soz for pics..... now to show just how top tech this guide is have a little lookey at the finished box in particular how the cylinder is set up with the port position: WTF !!!!! - I think they installed the cylinder ar$e about face ffs No freakin' wonder I f*cked up so much at first following these muppet instructions (Well is my excuse but I am still a noobish nob - still so much to learn/break) Soz to gatecrash or derail your post - I will edit it later but felt I had to share these bollox instructions

true but that is 100 Euro plus shipping and if they have ukara....... that takes it to say £82+ which you could say would get you the svd + pistol in UK though same pistol is about £13 on TWG - crazy prices SVD isn't that bad and uses normal aeg springs - just a bitch to cock with small handle but still a cheap way to test the sniping water - which isn't for everybody but RC10 code still works to get 10% off at OBBG with free ship on £50+ orders I don't highly recommend these BB sites but OBBG is perhaps one of the best of them imho though like I said still a lot of stuff is low end - a few bits are worth considering if price is good

taken from another of my War & Peace or Gone with the Wind epic piles of crap novels..... btw if you wanna snipe on a tight budget: http://www.onlybbgun...on#.VRpVm47p8i4 (blimey this was £64 now under £60) http://www.onlybbgun...gas-pistol.html (fps is not 220 is more like 320) use code RC10 for 10% discount and you could get your feet wet with a basic svd & gg pistol for well under £100 (svd for £54 del & pistol for £27 if code still works = £81 add some gas & still got change out of £100) - haven't tried it in a few months but it used to work ok don't think of buying much else on this site - a lot is still pants but is perhaps one of the better "BB" sites out there just now n then they do some half decent cheap stuff without having to order from overseas

Welcome aboard sir, nice kit and your previous experience will stand you in very good stead (not just tactically but teamwork & safety wise especially - not you but there are some real f*ckwit noobs out there) Yes some of these toys/gadgets can mount up a bit but at least your ammo will be way cheaper best wishes and I'm sure you will have a great time on your first game - first of very many I'm sure

Great box - shame about bushing failing but still needs very little spent on it SHS or other o-ring nozzle, new o-ring for piston probably, bit of tape on cylinder head (or replace cyl head if still not great seal), 2nd tooth is removed so shave 3rd a tiny bit for AOE new spring & bearing spring guide if you like Bushings - well you could have a swap around put the sector bushings in where bevel gear where (if they are still in very good condition) Then pop in some 8mm bearings on sector gear though you may as well replace the whole set Just most say bushings & some say a mix of bushings/bearings (bearings on the opposite non-load side) The standard FireHawk has 8mm bearings & 23:1 gears where as the other CM's have bushings & 18:1 gears Up to you what you do - as long as it is shimmed & greased but you knew that soz for waffle Fet wires - you could run them externally on right side of box back to stock on thin 22awg wire should be enough room at back of receiver or a tiny bit of groove/file - you will never see it will save fiddling trying to get the fet signal wire(s) routed inside neatly if you also change to silver or slightly thicker 16awg wire when fitting fet. Gotta admit I do like v3's as you can solder/fit signal wires externally without all the squeeze inside a v2 box But taking nothing away from G&G's v2 box - it is a lovely box to work on (even if they put the feckin' screws on the other side of the box) How much shorter is the barrel you are thinking of putting in there ? Long Raider barrel is 357/363 compare to Short Raider 233/229 barrel So with that difference you may like to check/compare the port on cylinder as you have her in bits Or you "might" get some weird results from over volume if port is too far back on much shorter barrel

no worries its what forums are all about and I owe $hitloads to soooooo many helping me out in my first year btw if you wanna snipe on a tight budget: http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/701-bison-bison-russian-bolt-action-airsoft-sniper-rifle-701blue.html?keyword=bison#.VRpVm47p8i4 (blimey this was £64 now under £60) http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/hg-104-m92f-beretta-hfc-hg-104-m92-gas-pistol.html (fps is not 220 is more like 320) use code RC10 for 10% discount and you could get your feet wet with a basic svd & gg pistol for well under £100 (svd for £54 del & pistol for £27 if code still works = £81 add some gas & still got change out of £100) - haven't tried it in a few months but it used to work ok don't think of buying much else on this site - a lot is still pants but is perhaps one of the better "BB" sites out there just now n then they do some half decent cheap stuff without having to order from overseas

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ buy a CM and get shooting.... if you jack it in, or if you upgrade to a shut the f*ck up TM or Tippman or whatever.... you won't have much problem flogging a G&G CM But thinks if you upgrade you may consider keeping the CM as a spare/backup lend to a m8 if they go with ya All guns - like cars will probably play up or let you down at some point or other eventually hence many carry a spare as a "just in case" you can bet the one time you forget to sling in your old spare - that will be the day your main mofo guns goes tits up a few people may be lucky and never had it happen to them but these little toys don't half take a bashing plus them gearbox's are like a tiny hammer drill banging away at 1,000 wallops a minute so it is no big shocker when they on an odd occasion let you down (maybe one day Tonka might make AEG's but for now there will always be that slight chance with ANY gun) heck they are realistic these M4's they screw up like the real ones from time to time

M4 wise G&G are the ones to get G36 = JG AK = Cyma The above 3 examples are what they really excel in making great reliable value for money guns I think most people will agree on that though I'm sure there maybe a few exceptions but is good rule of thumb Luckily - with a G&G M4 you are spoilt for choice Airsoft World have the 30th limited editions left @ £150 with metal receivers so great value G&G - GC16 is my fav of 2 30th's (not mega rails on either but metal gun G&G deserves some serious consideration at least) Raiders Long or Short are the usual starter guns @ £123 - polymer but very robust with plenty rail space FireHawk - loud mofo, turns heads but maybe not best suited for long woodland engagements but taking bases or cqb they shine CM18 - sexy 2-tone sweety with a 275 barrel that is in between the long & short raiders, polymer but damn nice, crappy midcap is its downfall Carbine - mainly 363 barrel but there is a lite version with shorter 275 barrel - cheapest G&G but rail-less up front the above G&G's are in effect just tarted up carbines - with more fancy front ends same box/motor/hop but it is a very good lot of internals indeed Even though a few - not many may have a little grief with a G&G, what you have to consider is these G&G's are like the Ford's of Airsoft Everybody & their brother has them, probably 1 in 3 or 4 aeg's will be a CM out on the field, well depending on where you go Suffice to say with so many G&G's out there you are bound to hear of the odd lemon going pear shape now & then....... But in general I strongly believe they are still the best starter M4's out there other differences between models: raider/carbine dust cover doesn't drop down when ya pull on handle - sprung shut so pull down manually to adjust hop carbine & 2x30th's are front wired in handguard others are rear wired crane stock though FireHawk has battery in stock tube so thin stick battery needed (or change stock to fixed stubby on a few of my G&G's to use almost any battery) Just have a look around and what tickles your fancy - they are same stuff inside at end of the day get a cheapo non blowback Green Gas pistol for £30 or even cheaper once you are ukara'd from poland You should take a look at Ian's airsofting on a budget guide if you choose carefully you will do more than alright without having to spend mega bucks first time around.

Daft question...... your first gun - have you been airsofting yet ? are you ukara'd if you are not completely bitten by the skirmishing bug then I would suggest going a little easy testing the water and getting just your toes/feet wet - rather than jump in the deep end with a mofo gun I would say G&G CM as they offer excellent value for money, easy to work on/fix if they go wrong but they are built very well - well I think so coz I have bought more of these than any others if ANY gun goes tits up real quick then you should contact the shop you bought it from (unless it has BB in its name - if so good luck getting chubby to help ya out) seriously - considering many on here - myself included bought $hite BB site guns at first I think you could do a lot worse - no a f*cking lot lot worse than say a £120 to £150 G&G

Probably would have to lock it to semi though I was a bit surprised to find a SVD AEG I bought still had auto, I mean a great big long mofo like that for sniping but still had auto on it firing at 430. Not a massive biggy with a burst wizard fitted and set to single shot on auto. As post was about price I think he might wanna just look at a cheapish basic sniper first to test the water and decide if marksmanship is really for him

I just wonder when PT247 will turn up at a game with some mofo airsoft version of a friggin' TANK !!!! Or pity the opposition when he let's rip with airsoft nukes

Gonna take a guess at CO2 ??? there are a few ways to reduce CO2's there is a valve mod to blow more air to blowback and not to bb a refillable CO2 bulb that you fill with Green Gas or mod the hammer to not fully depress the valve and reduce the burst of air - (risky on a decent pistol) Even then some sites demand you chrono on a fresh co2 bulb as the first few shots can be way over my own Co2 would hit well over 500 then settle to say around 425fps until nearing the end Luckily on my cheapo non-blowback Co2 pistol I managed to source cheap Green Gas mags for it and finally got to use it within the limits