Sitting Duck

Just saying if one of them 2 seperate prongs is not completely touching the selector plate it "can" create problems especially if one of them prongs or strips is higher than other I found..... it "can" push the selector plate copper or bow it a bit and not make great contact on the other prong it seems more likely to happen on semi than auto coz maybe the selector isn't in the selector "tracks" so much on side of gearbox on semi (further back in tracks & less chance of bowing maybe on auto) pinching the switch contacts or making sure they engage switch is great but if them seperate prongs behind selector plate are not 101% touching then the circuit is not completed = problems Well that is my hunch - very noobish for what it is worth - see what others might say but might be worth either getting a shs blue switch or do your own link to rule out that problem area on selector plate contacts Finally please note - I not got my G&G box to hand so they might have them contacts "linked" already but if they are seperate like some are then that could be one area to investigate further the bottom single contact prong - on the other side inside box runs to motor the top single contact prong - goes to one side of switch contacts if selector plate doesn't complete circuit 101% perfect then you will have iffy circuit even if switch contacts are soldered together the blue shs type has these linked so they will be making a perfect contact - heck you could remove the copper clip of selector plate on these switch types UPDATE - Red SHS also has them linked - just colour difference it seems: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/S/H/SHS-AEGPT-NB0027_1_MARK.jpg&imgrefurl=http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/shs-heat-resistance-switch-for-ver-2-geabox.html&h=600&w=800&tbnid=HkYEfnnMGul4HM:&zoom=1&docid=mwf6ySUsIBBl8M&ei=WG7YVOzTBMSP7AbFpoGAAg&tbm=isch&ved=0CCcQMygGMAY and yes the whole design is poxy and dated but does kinda work - well usually

think it might be more electrical rather than mechanical them contacts if seperate behind selector plate both have to be perfectly touching the selector copper plate and making a perfect circuit with all 3 or you get problems - I feel more often on semi edit - HAHAAA found the pic to explain more: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://tigertacticalairsoft.com/images/NB0027a.jpg&imgrefurl=http://tigertacticalairsoft.com/trigger-switch-gearbox-blue-p-734.html&h=338&w=450&tbnid=fzsZ8PBaq488HM:&zoom=1&docid=qpBkw3ln7fxbyM&ei=aePXVJnxGuav7AagqoDYBQ&tbm=isch&ved=0CCkQMygKMAo see - them two strips are linked on this one so selector plate copper is doing jack $hit not safe is safety lever arm fails but bet it fires better coz selector plate don't need contact

might be other stuff but taking a noobish guess it could be from iffy contacts creating some or most of them problems

not cycle properly on semi might be iffy contacts on switch/selector plate or selector might not 101% perfect position/contact 3 or 4 bb's though rolling out that is strange feed issue but only does this on semi so it might be "stuttering" and not smooth uninterupted cycle, jittering halfway and perhaps where more than 1 bb gets loaded normally there are 2 copper strips behind switch that make contact with copper on selector plate quite a few makes actually have these 2 strips linked but a few do not in a nutshell the "linked" strips could fire on safety in the safety lever arm fails/removed but as they are linked already the copper on selector plate is doing jack $hit really the unlinked ones can't fire in safety coz selector plate doesn't short them out but if BOTH of those copper strips do not make perfect contact on selector plate then you get bad connection and fire problems I don't know if G&G have these linked or not just behind switch assembly http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://i.imgur.com/UKfir.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/topic/238922-shs-switch-assembly/&h=468&w=781&tbnid=aEvmACnyaiDMmM:&zoom=1&docid=yKhr8K4HP5kzxM&ei=PN3XVLzvF_LQ7QbYg4GAAw&tbm=isch&ved=0CHAQMyhGMEY but deffo seen these wired as seperate contacts which in that case has to have both on a complete circuit to fire and also seen these with a link in which means the copper slip on selector is not needed if 2 seperate strips - then it is yet another area for carbon to build up and create an iffy connection plus both strips need to make good solid connection on semi/auto and have seen these strips not make great connections on a APS gearbox build that was crap on semi but was perfect on full auto - will just short them strips next time I have it in bits

what voltage battery ? up volts and she should go past & cut off lever return ok you got an Active Braking fet in there ??? I presume you are saying it fires ok but switch screws up as it stops too quick on that dead zone of cut off lever rather than trying to double cycle - doubt that coz neodym motors stop real quick over ferrite motors or is she not always firing one cylce on semi ??

Don't worry about any of it - it is working so leave it as it is thought you might be on a 328/330 cqb site But as they allow up to a 350 max - same as mine and it is the absolute max at mine Anyway they allow up to 350 - you are at 345...... in say a month or two it is very very likely it will drop a bit - all springs lose their tension over time so really don't worry about it coz you won't be hitting that in 3-6 months time often when guns may start to drop to under 300 say then it might time to tweak / service / check seals blah blah blah until then don't worry if you just scrape under atm, very likely won't last that high it is hard to say but for all we know you could got a M150 or something though I think you would of noticed the difference when fitting (it would of fought back a bit putting in box) could be a M130 and stock motor says f*ck this for a game of soldiers who knows - no real way of telling without testing it but a slim chance it could something else other than a M95 its working & leave it as is - coz 345 is ok and it will decrease a bit

weird ??? but kudos to Spoon & RR01 presume that perhaps a M95 might have been an Element one ?? have used the M105's in a few builds and been fine anyway if 345 is a big problem for your site, then maybe look at doing Angle Of Engagement a small sorbo or rubber pad washer placed on cylinder head that moves the position of piston back so the initial bigger tooth or pickup tooth engages better & smoother the piston is drawn in a smoother straighter pick up path so to speak G&G black piston has a tooth missing - 2nd tooth already place one or two max on cylinder head, sometimes shave a little on the next 3rd tooth This AOE results in smoother operation, reduces the piston breaking on the large initial pick up tooth but as the piston is further back and the volume of air it can pull & compress is slightly reduced it is quite common to lose a little power or fps - aprox 10-15 fps so if your site is running at say 330 limit then maybe do AOE with a couple of sorbo pads and acheive same result but will run smoother http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neoprene-Rubber-Penny-Washers-Adhesive-Backed-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-SN0001-/250981193606?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item801394491d is what I use - M4 hole size & 20mm outer diameter (cylinder bore is aprox 23.8mm so 20mm is ideal) there are others but you want self adhesive washers, aprox 2mm thick might need just 1 or 2 might be a bit too much they go on cylinder head - not piston head google it and watch some vids, it is one of the tweaks most recommend but often lowers fps a tiny bit not a massive operation at all to do yes some say it should be this grade or that grade of rubber but does the job for me

Ahhhhh now I see the potential problem with law, ricochets/safety aspect (though 15m is actually a little low distance - range wise unless is based on a JBBG gun) soz - now chock has explained it a bit more to moi it might be wise to maybe avoid raising suspicion so close to the alley alas we have to be a little careful in the way we conduct ourselves to avoid agro & all that sorry once again for not quite grasping it how close & potentially risky it really might be my bad once again

UHmmmmmm not being funny but a couple of members have had some - shall we say not quite so brilliant levels of service from JD's tech guys.... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/statuses/user/7335-bottledtorment/?status_id=6012 might just be a rare thing or the young trainee did those guns but just letting ya know

5 mins is fine, if you had a responsible grown up with ya if you are u18 then you are gonna look less suspicious with a 2-tone IF doing some target shots in ya back garden I don't know how much a passer-by could actually see clearly with their own eyes only you know that for sure so it is up to you to judge if what they can see in I know some people are thick but a kid shooting a 2-tone "toy gun" in his back garden is hardly an all attack from IS, but then the world is a bit more jittery atm but you get the idea and suspicion won't be too high if you are careful and discreetly use common sense I'd be more worried about some guy storing a load of fertilizer & chemicals in a garage looking shifty than a kid plinking in his back garden once in a while with a painted toy gun LASTLY - ffs don't be tempted to show off or be stupid like say ooooh lets see if I can hit that can from bedroom window......... That isn't just f*cking stupid it is seriously gonna raise alarm bells coz that will be seen from a way off as a possible threat and that is extremely likely gonna get a visit you don't want End of the day - only you know the situation at home/alley so YOU have to make the choice But you sound sensible and wouldn't make it a regular annoying habit..... Once you got it all set-up, zero sight, hop sorted roughly and then get the urge bug out of the way then you probably won't be chomping at the bit with the urge to empty a few mags will subside a bit Most of the time if I fire some shots its to test a gun's fps on chrono or if I have down anything to it and see what it does now - a lot less than when I started a year ago

at a risk of being flamed and then burned in hell as well...... maybe include - ouch its getting hot in here... AK47 with 455 barrel & SR25 / 417's as well perhaps but is longer cylinder/piston longer barrels don't guarantee longer range but unsure what range you are looking for against size of gun etc....

Well I suppose you could mention it if ya have a good rapport with next door Mine understood very early on when they saw me & son taking stuff out on weekends all kitted up Made a bit of fubar once trying out a modification - didn't realise it was 6:30am after I returned from work shift - oops but they were ok once I ate some humble pie and said soz for being too dumb to notice the early morning time other than that we seem to get along ok..... Well apart from a couple of BFG's going off - yeah that deffo isn't a good idea to $hit ya neighbours up but I have been a good boy recently and tried to grow up a little

Use of an airsoft gun is mainly down to your nosey neighbours by that I mean if they get the hump with you shooting it all day long especially in summer if other people want to chill & relax..... Last thing anyone wants is a repetative noise ZZZzzzzzziiiiippppppp ZZZzzzzzziiiiippppppp ZZZzzzzzziiiiippppppp etc...... or noisy oiky kids, loud music playing etc.......... As you are using an AEG it may attract attention of course or if next door gets pi$$ed they may "mention" it to authorities You have a toy gun ffs, but due to age n crap and just to all get along we all - well I do... try n keep it to the odd burst & short target shooting sessions.... Yeah I got my own private garden so I should be able to whatever the f*ck I like some might feel truth is I don't want any extra $hit if I become annoying - well I am annoying but was meaning with my guns and I do try to be a little considerate - if anything to just keep the peace You "probably" can just fire off some shots in your own private garden/land if there is no danger to public (peeps living in blocks of flats are kinda screwed there then I guess) But like anything - do it in moderation, maybe not shoot off 1,000's of rounds especially if next door are out in garden just common sense really - should be fine as long as it doesn't become annoying to next door (though some neighbours are better than others - go easy) oh and avoid shooting in house - them bb's go EVERYWHERE bouncing off walls etc... also not wise to have to explain the new plasma/lcd is f*cked from you being silly buggers indoors soz for lecture - not meant to come across like that - just go easy & you should be fine I reckon yup I can understand to get out there and blast away - but that is what ya local site is for if ya mega trigger happy zero/tune ya sights, tweak hop-up, little traget shooting, practice peeking left, etc... that normally does me & keeps the peace

most of us have more than one gun - ahem yeah I gotta a spare you could say but by then you probably have sussed it all out a bit more.... then got old G&G box sorted and you will have a spare box for either cqb or woodland aeg no worries, no major drama to get ya going again

cool - they are back in stock if ya G&G is front wired - bit of a $hit if its rear wired that is the stuff - think it is like a 6mm allen key or torx in the back, twist 90 degrees and spring guide + spring come out - bob's ya uncle park it properly in semi first, only recommended for say up to m120 or m130 springs max often they have micro switch system on trigger than classic plunger switch type if it has micro switch do not run 11.1v lipo's on there as smaller tiny contacts will burn out on higher juice (a mosfet is recommended for any box using micro-switches - well fet is recommended upgrade for most tbh) yup that is the kiddie - worth considering as a backup option in my book to get ya going again he's on here - pm him and he might be able to do a deal & offer help on getting old box working again most of them come with a m110 or m120 spring so a little hot to use but hey ya got stock & m95 spring

you can buy a QD - quick spring change box also the back of spring guide pops out without having to dismantle the whole box to change spring check ak2m4.co.uk - but he might be out but deffo ask him first helmetworld.co.uk on ebay or direct site patrolbase might do them too - all UK mofo's btw so you could pop in a qd box and get back in game, then sort out ya old box or drop it into somebody

OK - try to ensure the cylinder port or hole is running in line with piston grooves that way you can check when you close up she is still looking like all in position. yup you need 3 hands to close it up but then the 3rd hand gets in the way at same time fish and prod gears etc.. to pop through their holes correctly whilst trying to keep the lid on yeah "fun" is one word - bollox is another, plus loads of others too looks really easy but they have been doing it for yonks and they are used to it - they make it "look" easy if you feel confident and have time - remove spring and cylinder/tappet then check all gears are moving nicely and not crossing on a closed up box ya finger can spin sector gear/piston gear thingy through the cylinder cut-out I really don't think they will be out of alignment but might just be worth checking that them gears spin lovely Reckon it may be piston not situated correctly - so give it a once over, piston head look ok see that piston glides along rails all nicely too whilst you are about it. Stock G&G CM16 piston's don't have bearings on piston head so doubt if it came undone compare springs old + new and like spoon says if all else fails put old one back it is something really daft but very hard for anyone to accurately pinpoint it like this hence just a few things to check - take your time you will suss it I'm sure

piston jumped out of its runners when closing box ar latch not back in place - use a small earth/neodym magnet to hold that git in position shim(s) dropped off and now gears not shimmed correctly motor height - you have got pistol grip fitted correctly polarity of motor - G&G's have the wires going up one side in pistol grip so you got them on the correct way ??? soz if it sounds a little daft but in effect it should of been straight forward but more often than not ya first few attempts opening a box up doesn't always go to plan (mine didn't - jeez and I'm still learning but G&G's are nice boxes to work on) also don't over overtighten screws up too much, that will knock the shimming out a bit. You mega tighten them and it will result in much tighter shimming (ya supposed to keep checking shims on a closed up box - but you knew that) Hopefully you didn't mess with shims/gears so they should be ok as long as you didn't go mega nutz when tightening screws them fine threads can strip if you keep going too heavy handed - reckon tighten as much as possible using thumb + index finger unless you are really weak a good turn with just thumb+index will result in tight but not too tight as actress said to bishop hard to say for deffo but either gears not meshing correctly or piston not in the rail grooves as you closed up box

soz forgot you was talking about VFC / Umarex which we all said has TM's on it unlike some WE models - my bad.... must be the higher fps model then @ 400+fps

well different gun but know the WE 416 don't have TradeMarks @ LWA (bought cheapo D-Boys instead then) but VFC one is licensed with markings n bits However as said above buy one from far east and it could very well have markings on them over here & US they are quite hot on markings if not officially licensed etc.........

impact or timed BFG's is what most use on a regular basis 9mm or shotgun primer - easy to knock up your own primer adapter steel tube think its 11/32" outer to 1/4" inner does the job perfectly - aprox 20 to 25mm length (8.73mm x 6.35mm aprox) some pyro's may not be allowed at "some" places in summer due to "possible" fire risk (if very dry woodland/bush areas then have seem some places say no to some pyro's but yes to BFG's)

cheers for the advice but my cheapy lipo chargers just do it at their own pace (no choice in the matter I'm afraid) which isn't ultra quick - probably should invest in a "proper" decent charger one day

yup - totally agree with getting a benchmark or reference point first to make comparisons range is one thing - tighter groupings is another enhancement that you can build upon just quickly saying I zero my sights on a large object - metal dustbin at say 20m then gradually fine tune it on smaller objects further up the garden..... if I'm lucky I can hear the "ting" on an aerosol can at about 80ft aprox (that said it is probably only 40ft as an airsoft metre is only 500mm) the objects and the different sounds makes it easier to judge/hear if I am on target (usually way way way off but I keep trying)

I would say ya TM will pi$$ all over the CM18...... so if ya TM is running ok, then if anything tweak the CM18 a bit to get it a bit better that way if - god forbid, but if ya TM plays up the CM18 will be a bit better of a fall back spare so to speak but up to you, n welcome to forum anyway