Sitting Duck

They work very well in my G&G, ICS, and SRC M4's bought other budget/reasonable priced mags and most were crap or not so good so in the end I just bought a few boxes now and lately not even bothered with standard mags that came in box with my guns

if you play mainly woodland maybe long version if you play cqb then get short version perhaps Raiders are dogz nutz for money only about £5 more than carbine but rails galore there isn't that much in it between the 2 tbh - only minor tiny thing is dust cover pulls down to adjust the hop rather than drop down with a pull on handle but no real biggy long/short same price aprox £123 + shipping from zero one a bit more money is the CM18 which is between long/short barrel length but very sexy but for that price you could grab a metal limited edition GC16 MOD0 (alas airsoft is one of them classics where do you start & where do you stop) But yeah Raider L or S can't be beaten imho

here is a post with pics showing pin or lug snapping off: http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=96322.0 but investigate fuse/wiring first and see if you airsoft m8 can "feel" the extra resistance on switch engaging on contacts (hard to describe but if you compare 2 similar guns you do get to feel the slight difference - mainly when trigger is pressed about 60% + you would feel the contacts/switch engaging - slight extra resistance or not if pin snapped) but really hard to guess - run some basic tests first going through the usual process of elimination crap coz it really could be a number of things atm let us know how it goes & consider ordering a cheap G&G perhaps get JG fixed up to use as spare or lend to a m8 who might tag along with ya etc..... Think I made a better neater job than some peeps did - I ended buying a number of fine bolts of various sizes in the end it was either a m1.6 or most likely a M2 bolt - countersink head aprox 7mm long with nut drilled out with fine drill bit in a dremel with flexible end carefully made hole where the snapped bit was applied some thread glue to bolt running into box and fitted tiny nut - sitting nicely flat in line with cut off lever arm Damn - I wish i took some pics of it coz was rather chuffed with myself... then a few months later learnt I didn't think it all up by myself as it is a common problem and very common fix to weak & w@nky box's ANYWAY - might not even be that problem so check fuse & motor out of gun/pistol grip first

Without carrying out a few tests it would be difficult to even get close to a diagnosing the fault tbh What I would do is first remove motor plate on bottom of pistol grip pull motor back away from box and see if it turns.... Chances are probably not as fuse may have blown if motor locked up or if polarity reversed - box won't turn over as anti-reversal latch will prevent it going in reverse As motor is not engaged into box but free spinning then if you don't have a fuse to hand... ONLY IF MOTOR IS NOT IN BOX would i suggest a possible very quick bodge test of shorting fuse JUST TO SEE IF MOTOR TURNS FREELY ON ITS OWN !!!! do not bodge the fuse and attempt to run the motor in its box ffs If motor turns then GET CORRECT FUSE before refitting back into pistol grip !!! If motor does not turn then it is a switch problem most likely and box will need opening to investigate further I reckon The switch itself could be a bad connection or contacts or even mechanical If you was firing on auto then failed to fire on semi - this dead zone should not be forced on the triggeror damage may occur (switch back to auto and fire again then it should of gone past the dead zone - but it might be too late or not related to problem) The "pin" just behind the trigger's resting point could of broke basically the part where it latches onto trigger is yanked up and shoots backwards disengaged from switch contacts and stops on a "pin" or lug but sometimes in bad casting or weld this pin or lug breaks and the switch goes too far back so far back that the trigger can't "relatch" onto the switch coz its gone back too far (this pin or lug is about 5mm to 6mm in height and can often just snap off in really $hit boxes over time) 2 feckin' SRC boxes have done this to me - fixable with a fine bolt but just shows pi$$ poor casting/weld/quality Note - the trigger will feel a little lighter not pushing the switch into contacts any more but still has a spring on it - so unless you know your gun very well you may not notice it that much until you try another gun's trigger perhaps..... That is the mechanical side of it that can fail - happened twice to me but JG box when I looked at it seem much better casting around the stop pin I thought The switch contacts could be iffy but think that is less likely I feel that either the box jammed for some reason & blew fuse out (could still be locked so get correct fuse to test) or quite possible switch mechanism may have failed if all wire checks out ok Best advice - order up a G&G if you need a decent working gun to go skirmishing with when you get back to shore then have a play with JG box or send it off to somebody to investigate - but not mega bollox'd just something small & simple probably failed so no biggy to repair/replace (if too expensive then just replace box in JG and you back in the game) best of luck - we have all been there though I'm no veteran but I had quite a few go tits up on me (always blame the gun not the user)

M130 is usually ya DMR type spring (425 aprox) M150 should put you at 490/500-ish this is on 0.2's shooting correctly but still a rough guide but ya mofo 0.43's certain must be going some on hop to lift that fatty bb so that is where ya 0.2 is way lower on .43 hop setting I reckon ya own chrono comes in very handy when messing/upgrading/servicing ya guns though

get a m8 to go halves with ya: http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/airsoft-magazines-c3/high-capacity-c51/dytac-300rds-bravo-magazine-for-m4-aeg-black-box-of-10-p3058 good mag for a great price

clones don't have shot memory helmetworld I got mine from a while back very very close if not exact same readings as my site's old 3200 chrono (they used to have 3200 but lost the adapter/funnel so big fatty suppressors couldn't get aligned easily so they bought another make) the shop - helmetworld is way overpriced - ffs, plus a discount code I had no longers works the guy on ebay - if ya worried ask him to confirm shot memory blah blah blah I got mine on helmetworld via ebay for £60ish ooooh 10months or so ago

The max fps of a gun will or should be with hop off However the norm is to chrono with hop set & shooting correctly (else it would be right bollock-ache to mess ya hop up to chrono then pi$$ ball about getting it back fine tuned etc...) Big long line of peeps tweaking their guns in the morning I guess Some people may try to cheat chrono a bit on a slightly warm gun by giving it a bit more - thus excess spin will reduce fps My own site suggested (off record) if I could get a 355 down a touch by adjusting chrono to 349/350 basically marshal could not allow a gun over 350 to pass chrono - just doing his job to the letter and I respect that Chrono stats are done on 0.20's as the standard for site rules to ensure we all use guns within the sites own safe limits So yeah - chrono with ya gun shooting correctly like what takes place at ya site 490 it might hitwith hop off, but travel much less, might not even get past 30m MED before it hits the ground so no way would ya hit anybody with ya sniper in that case Good chrono - I have the 3200 btw Reckon you may be putting a load more spin on a heavier BB then when chrono on .20's the excess spin might just might be giving ya lower figure - sounds reasonable I guess But - the .43 Vs .20 is a lot heavier/lighter - wow quite a difference so would of thought the .20 even with a bit extra spin should come out like a bat of hell (Gone Gone Gone - soz couldn't resist that bit) Dunno - sounds right but then it don't when you look at the weight or mass difference that a .20 comes out slower HOW BLOODY LONG IS THAT BARREL OF YOURS - a metre or so ?? (0.20 bb must have gone upwards like a Harrier or Helicopter when it exited barrel with all that hop) The most important thing is for sniper to understand MED whatever bb's they use You are using one heavy mofo bb btw so that is why mental hop & strange difference I'm guessing 490 for a sniper may still be within limits (up to 500 aprox if site agrees or 450 if they don't feel happy with you sniping) but over for a DMR (425 usually) The figures are a rough guide only as all site limits vary

TBH - Buy cheap G&G:(2-tone) Carbine or Raider or CM18 or Mod0 = £120 to £150-ish offset that against hire costs whilst getting ukara'd and getting ya feet wet If you get ukara'd then you probably not that much out of pocket than if you hired plus you got spare should your RIF go tits up (realistic imitation firearm you buy once ukara'd) Failing that if you decide it not for you a G&G 2-tone should be easy to sell on (to an 18yr old) or keep in case you decide to try again at some point But buying a cheap G&G starter is a worthy consideration against renting if you think you may get into it

Various - there a just mess about skirmish sites some a little more serious - and some much more serious/objective mil sim types mostly outdoors - woodland but some inside buildings or CQB even tunnels in near pitch black forget how accurate you might be at target shooting..... These sods move & shoot back and they are expecting you usually split into 2 teams and a variety of games with different objectives some very simple to keep things moving and some fun types some more involved - keep medic alive and eliminate enemy medic or pilot capturing bases/flags closest to flag - oh the list in nearly endless as various sites run different games according to what suits the area and the players enjoyment the odd game may seem pants if it don't seem to working but not often nearly all sites/memebers welcome new players the only thing is to listen to safety briefings and follow the more experienced player's lead or suggestions DBAD - Don't Be A Dick, is the general rule mag out when returning to safe zone (and clear gun) If you think you are hit - even elbow or toe - call it - shout HIT and go to dead zone/respawn We all have to try and play fair or the game just falls apart I still go negative quite often but f*ck ya COD K-D crap just go and have fun and DBAD think there is a site in Billericay but sure there are many more close to you read some New Player guides and check out a list of sites local to you pop along and get shooting

Expect: Become fitter out in fresh air running around SKINT - coz you will always want more toys - 1 gun is never enough Annoyed - should of got into this yonks ago there are 3 things to expect but there's loads more there are some great guides up top and some really great guys on here too (not me coz I'm still a noob - but heck I'm having time of my life) we are all 12yr olds on here trapped in various older bodies young - adult - middle age - well past it (moi) - a right mixed bag some really good players and some not so good (moi again) Oh & welcome to forum

I'm sure something like a Maplin mini-kit LED game can be knocked up then probably wired into say a sound bomb module - very loud 12v alarm bell then this would signal game over if puzzle/bomb disarmed But like gameplay it has to be balanced enough to be a challenge but not impossible Bop-it - one of them devices you can't put down one minute... and then next you wanna smash against the wall "I frggin twisted it ya dumb ass pile of $hit" - AAAArrrrrgggghhhhhhhhh (yeah driven nuts by that sod thanks to my kids) Yeah don't make it too complex if using Simon etc... Picture it now - ya squad leader comes out of the objective.... FFS - can you guys keep it down a bit I'm trying to f*cking concentrate in there but you lot making all the noise keep putting me off can't you lot kill each other a little more quietly or stealthy - jjjjjeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzz

Hmmm - within reason though, Trying to play "Bop it !!!" in the middle of a fire fight is way too friggin' mental to concentrate on but yeah something that requires take/find something, then fight to gain control of area & use that device to arm/disarm well stuff like that but not too crazy or intense that it gets nigh on impossible to complete the objective with average players

Unless you use stuff like Loctite thread glue them piston heads will come undone very soon (Blue is mild, use Red and you may have to dremmel the bitch off next time) another thing is perhaps include a spring washer but still add a drop of blue glue to be sure To be honest they add about 4 gms+ to piston's overall weight & near 5mm spring compression (use a 5mm plastic spacer instead as they don't undo or loosen & disintergrate/scratch cylinder) G&G use these plastic spacers & can be sourced easily on fleabay as plastic marine spacers in various widths/lengths - aprox 15mm diameter x 5mm - centre hole is little small but widen with file/drill or 15mm x 10mm - seems about right size for using shorter pistons in L85 aeg's (3x3mm teeth extra) "Fit a bearing spring guide and drop the piston bearing to save weight on piston" is what I have seen by people aiming for high rof & lightweight pistons/swiss cheese etc.... some complete piston's can be 15gms (no cheese) right up to over 30gms with full steel teeth & bearings All this crap can really add up a bit - plus I feel that much heavier pistons "could" mean greater impact force that "might" increase the chances of gearbox cracking at front/cylinder head area especially on gearbox's that are not radial on the cylinder edges - well that is my gut feeling theory (certainly ain't gonna make it better with 30gms smashing into right angled cornered cylinder casting over time) But Bearing - I never bother with as I will fit bearing spring guide now and leave piston bearing/washers in parts box 1 or 3 steel tooth piston & stay under 20gms is what I now go with - without a piston bearing Hope some of this crap helps - soz can't help ya on ya pistol I'm afraid but yeah I feel ya pain - think we have all been there and any gun can be 1 or 2 shots away from being bollox'ed

think you kinda answered your own question there..... 1 mag feeds - other one don't could try a little bit of felt/tape/velcro in magwell but could be a w@nked old mag with crap spring happens a bit - always remove bb's & empty mag when done for the day and I'm sure peeps have got some really nice great mags that feed lovely in their guns plus a few that don't on occasions those iffy mags may feed better in some other guns but not others could try other bb's & tape in magwell but quite likely mag is a bit borked - for that gun anyway (probably spring is worn & not supplying enough pressure to feed bb's very well) main thing is gun ok - mags are easy/cheap to replace I got some mid-caps and some hi-caps that are not so great at feeding, some are ok then crap after halfway mid-caps and some hi-caps that feeds about 5 or 6 bb's then need loads of winding (really need to either see if I can fit new spring/stretch it a bit but most likely should just bin most of them)

Interesting - heard Guarder springs were more powerful but some said they used to test or evaluate 'em on .25's Never will quite understand the 130% or 170% rating - wtf does that bloomin' mean (bit like 200:100 or 300:100 helical gear sets ffs - I think 200:100 is kinda like 24:1 imho) In general we know M100 equates APROX to 328/330 but then you have to chuck in a very perfect tuned setup with no airloss can add on up to 10% - cyl/barrel ratio can add/subtract - plus manufacturing variations or rough gradings, perhaps a M105 being rated as a M100 to ensure it hits the mark (do reckon Element M105 is aprox same power as a SHS M100 out of box myself) length of spring can mean very little at first glance too Then there is yet another big difference on top of all this - Bearings !!!!!! Each bearing used adds more spacing or compression - yeah I know it is obvious Piston Bearing - this can add up to 5mm - 4mm bearing plus 1mm washer Spring Guide - if this has a bearing on it then say aprox 4mm That is getting close to 9mm extra spacing or compression - which is 3 teeth on piston !!!! No wonder you could get all sorts of weird or unexpected results sometimes but still learning so unsure the best type of "windings" so far only used standard types Soz to OP - leave it, see how it all fires for now like most have said

£200 will get you: Zero one 2 tone 4 free G&G Raider or CM18 - £123 to £155 or Airsoftworld.net limited edition G&G GC16 mod0 £150 (not 26 model IMHO front sight is crap) 2 tone extra but all metal receiver all G&G's will be fine but raider cm18 or GC16 mod0 are great for money. About £40 to £60 change for battery charger n a spare mag GET DECENT EYE PROTECTION !! even carbine at about £117 is a good one but pay a little extra for Raider or sexy CM18 and you got loads of rails to mount all your crap on later There are other makes but most on here will suggest G&G as a very wise investment decent, look good, build quality is good, easy to work on, hold their money compared to some crap out there very good starter - intermediate M4 guns out of the box buy other cheaper stuff and you will probably/very likely regret it Edit - my warning came too late as you got a D4817 already (no worries I bought crap too first time around - B500A1 $hite)

Thanks but you keep it m8 thought ya girly was getting one too perhaps - maybe the shorty one (I mean ak spetsnaz not ya girlfriend is short btw - just kidding) then you can have a nice cosy day shooting each other with railed AK's maybe keep it for ya lady m8 - I just thought if ya got it off the shelf from a shop cheaply it would save me going nutz with me dremmel & files but I'm lazy - lol

Very nicely done sir indeed.... I have a small number of shorter rails "curved" or half moon type but half that length you did plus the covers are mostly the ridged type so a bit of work still required.... There are some covers already done but hard to find at decent/good price in stock mega kudos - very nicely done sir indeed

your mod or did you get the cover with rail fitted already - looks tidy please enlighten where n what used bought coz I wanna do it to my AK's and start using them My cover has the "bumps" on rather than the smooth type

leave it cocked overnight to bring it down a little bit but would of thought that from October you should of lost some tension in spring by now TBH - if it is running ok - firing straight/true with a range you are happy with then try & leave it cocked overnight If it ain't broke don't try to fix it - worry about it when you need to worry about it usually G&G's pull around 330-340 so would of thought it would of come down a little by now but that model is the shorter barrel Carbine - like a Comando M4 as some makers call it has say a 275ish barrel as opposed to usual 363ish barrel so maybe why its up a little if they used a "363" cylinder/port ? if you wasn't bothered about opening box up then I would say do AOE - that would bring it down 10 to 15-ish BUT like I said - leave it cocked overnight or 2 nights to lose some oooomph out of spring perhaps that should lose a little 5 to 10 maybe then check again Really - if it is running nice then leave it - or at least until she starts playing up & not running so nice

Bloody hate Tamiya's full stop female connector but with male pins inside red is round or some adapters is ain't ffs - gimme deans anyday Had a quick look at Large Tamiya and it seems that is where All the confusion comes in about polarity crap... On big Tamiya the round plug/socket is not red The big tamiya has round black polarity I think Jeez what bollock ache these tamiya's are ffd

Normally male deans is on gun & female deans is on battery (unless a bell-end wired it up) Red goes at the top of the T of the deans but some deans have markings on them Be careful about adapters - mini tamiya to large tamiya can be wired wrong/differently (think - don't quote me but perhaps in some RC uses some adapters can have wires in plastic connector swapped over) Had to carefully unpick & swap over a few tamiya adapter leads in past THINK in airsoft the RED lead goes in the ROUND socket & BLACK goes in SQUARE socket..... (basically sure is was RED is ROUND rule) I say I think that was right or how I remembered to check but please double check and always double check by following the lead from battery to last gun connector that it all stays the same colour If you can solder or if you got some common sense then it don't take long to swap over etc....... I know you may be chomping at bit to get started but a big major major thing to remember if you or anybody messes with this NEVER be silly and cut both wires at once - short circuit - BANG kill a lipo etc.... (really sounds obvious but I very nearly did this just steaming in and I know not to do it) You may need to remind us what you are thinking of doing btw.... AEG = mini tamiya on gun has female thin metal socket battery has male metal pins that go inside this However - the plastic CONNECTOR on gun is male but pins inside are female same on battery - pins are are male but connector itself is female The above plus some adapters can be wired differently and throw into that the usual you may not fully understand what I am saying/meaning or seller's description might be out (is perhaps I got a few - wtf no that ain't what I ordered, i think) Tamiya's are a little qwirky and all that - why I ended up buying some pins/connectors to do my own leads Deans are Deans and easy to do but need soldering rather than crimping (well there are 3 sizes but we use the normal deans not mini (very very few guns use) & not the tiny micro deans) Oh yeah you are well confused now but much easier to speak to component shop or at least check their terminoligy I bloomin' hate mini tamiya's coz though connector's may be male they got female contacts inside so I get all argumentative saying well that female is really a male then might explain why I got so many wrong connectors in past and thought f*ck it I'll do me own ladyboy cross dresser connector whatever you bloomin' call that sodding thingy majig

?

Think it is like a chain - well yeah it is of course and would deffo say mini-tamiya are the weakest link - goodbye..... After that then comes the matter of fitting decent 16awg wire and in my hi-speed fet G&G I had to apply additional solder to the motor connectors at the 90 degree bend - very weak under juice. Most batteries come with 14awg or thicker - so that end is not weak - except for connector wire getting very warm if you keep thin 18awg under load and motor connectors may need looking at - why some techy's solder wire to motor I guess for what it is worth..... * SHS HI SPEED MOTOR * managed 27rps before fet/wire/deans on 11.1v afterwards though she hit 31.5rps Think that is mainly due to wiring/deans = 16% aprox (the fet would save contacts but feel the fet doesn't really increase rof or response on its own) So if you improved the tiny thin hollow like tamiya and didn't go nuts on the juice - say 7.4v lipo or 8.4v perhaps by doing one of the 3 weak links dean/wire/motor connector...... You "may" see a small increase of about say 6% to 8% top is my noobish scientific guess and this is probably worth jack but think that might sound aprox correct if you do just deans on their own DO NOT GO NUTZ ON STOCK WIRE & NO FET NB - please note the hi-rate of fire was a very hi speed motor and I do not run it at that speed I generally am happy with 19rof on 7.4v lipo don't expect your normal stock motor to break the speed barrier on its stock setup but should see a small tiny inmprovement or about 1 round per second quicker and slightly quicker response too