Sitting Duck

Not ultra impressed with some of the newer CM stuff... DSG FireHawk was dire The 300 BOT - hmm £170 still polymer and their fet's not got best reputation.... The newer stuff like split gearbox, fully electronic, new pneumatic nozzle, plug in battery notor modules.... Owner is gonna be f*cked for upgrade options in quite a few of those areas Believe it or not I love G&G CM's but think they might be shooting themselves in the foot if quality suffers and I think they are making it more complex that it likely will fail. More stuff to go wrong and screwed for usual choice or replacement parts. That is my gut feeling, think they need to not be too ambitious and make gradual improvements ensuring the new stuff is as solid as the tried n tested old skool stuff

Sorry to hear that - mega soz if I got on people's nerves I know I'm like Marmite.... But sorry you have reached a crossroads - if you don't get that enjoyment or buzz from something then you are getting old or need to maybe throw yourself into something new perhaps ? But glad you may still stick around - all that wisdom would be a waste to just pull out completely I do hope you can get your mo-jo back and return to the field now n then at least Hope you can get the bug again but wish you all the very best sir

peel the rubber out - remove glazed unit patio doors are worst - old ones could be prised up & off if they wanna get in they will - move old banger and take Range Rover Dog - pah they don't give a toss about poison a dog but luckily most are just opportunity trying their luck and hope somebody left window/door unlocked etc.... I leave lights telly's on now after being done by a stupid mistake and opportunist got a few things but was disturbed still $hits you up somebody been in ya house - bastids

battery is very very low amps so it will never last long charger is probably crap and the gun itself is a very low power cheap starter from a BB site perhaps the wisest thing is to buy a smart charger @ about £10 which should charge battery quicker and safely not over charge it charger will probably last longer than gun and so would be good if/when you upgrade to a better starter gun perhaps checkout fleabay for a cheap airsoft smart charger - but be careful about buying bigger batteries unless you know they will fit

I like to tweak/break guns and like to push them for $hits n giggles Stateside they like to go way too fast 35+ even 45+ on SSG's Me I regard 20 to 30 is more than fast enough so 25 is a comfortable max figure but I tend to stay on 7.4v lipo which means 20 aprox Nice to go nutz - son took the DSG FH & the 416 out for a blast and marshall actually used it to do a hit test on a couple of people - they called it But generally low 20's on a 7.4v I feel is quick enough for rof & response yes it will go @ 30+ but why use more ammo and higher juice eg: 2000mah 11.1v or say a 3000mah 7.4v aprox same size battery hats off to bolt snipers - they have one shot and so have to ensure their gun is really sweet to make that shot count plus they have to look at the great shot they just pulled being shrugged off and not taken Think the higher rof peeps should be seen to use their guns for support suppress/covering fire rather than go head to head with stock or slower guns but then the flip side is why should a higher rof gun be penalised - again its all about balance I guess And no I don't think I would take the DSG out much more - apart from will it last for yonks it is still a badly put together gun, probably put in a less powerful motor in her and use that motor elsewhere to be honest coz 40+ is mental and I seriously think DSG's are overated The 416 is beefed to 30 but have had problems getting her there - so yeah low 20's is deffo the preferred setup me thinks wtf lets go out with a compressor and a vortex and just decimate everything in our paths

pmsl - didn't understand at first - wtf is this an app to convert headsets to iphone or something Aaaaaaahhhh yes 4% yeah better charge ya fone

Both are great guns I have a few 42W clear - similar to G&G Carbine and a "few" G&G's ICS deffo seems a smidge quicker out of box rof G&G - well they are the number one selling M4 starters What G&G have done is made a load of different style M4's with/without rails etc.... So there is bound to be one that takes your fancy more my own favourite is MK18's for looks the bargain GC16 30th is a major consideration - can mount some stuff on there coz they supply 3 mini bolt on rails to handguard the handguard is much more sturdy than others M4 handguards ICS do make other types of M4 with RIS but you normally have to go above £150 think their hop - like a G36 is a bit bespoke to ICS but take nothing away they are a nice gun with good build all other parts are normal TM plus easier change of spring due to two piece box and spring release when storing gun But for me personally I like the look/range of G&G's and they are a nice gun to work on I haven't got around to ripping/tweaking my ICS yet so I can't say how they compare but think G&G use 8mm & ICS "may" use 7mm bush/bearings on mine I chose G&G's coz of the range to chose from in the £150 range and my first was the FireHawk which I had to had to have as I fell in love straight away since then I have been hooked on G&G but I still hold a lot of respect for ICS - always regard them as a very close 2nd to G&G Maybe I might tweak and spray and swap some bits around and give my clear ICS a new lease of life over the summer It really does deserve a bit more of my time - I have neglected her I will admit but was my choice over not so good SRC's until I got ukara'd soz for waffle - me it is G&G Mk18 or GC16 30th - only coz of the good range of choice I think the G&G plastic/polymer is a tad more robust than ICS plastic. Think the G&G is a little more flexible which may stand up to knocks more where as the ICS seems to be the more harder and perhaps brittle in cold weather - PLEASE NOTE - this might be coz mine is in clear plastic and it might have to be the more harder plastic than flexible polymer I do not own a black sportsline ICS so it would be unfair to say ICS receiver is not as good as G&G - just comparing my clear one to black G&G's

Thing is the moment you start tinkering with hop-up's there is always a chance you can actually make it worse before you make it better After have a nightmare on my 416 - 3 x hop units ok none of them hi end but jeez what mixed results I was getting....... stock one max fps but feeding issues on higher speed full auto new metal (cheapo) one tiny tiny drop if fps but nice feeding - would of ran with this but hop wasn't very effective crappy plastic one - feed perfectly but quite a drop in fps..... breifly explain - ShortStroke 2 teeth and was expecting to come down from hot 395fps TWG to about 350/360ish on stock spring dunno but must of got seals bang on in box even doing AOE which loses a smidge - still getting 385 to 390 on stock hop Metal one performed well feed & 360ish fps wise but not able to control a straight line like others - probably bad bucking or bad install eventually improve the crappy plastic one from dropping to 270fps to about 340 - still not perfect flight on a 407mm tbb but decided to go with that for a game My theory is there is a fine line as nozzle travels - probably this total travel may only be about 8 or 9mm - 6mm to feed a bb with a mm or two either side to load and push bb & seal to hop in one smooth transition The 3 hop units were different especially metal Vs stock hop and I also feel the total travel may not have say 9mm but more like 8mm this is despite me shaving tappet to increase start/finish position of nozzle, ensuring and try a few different tappet plates to ensure it travels back as much as possible without bending up at the end too much as it hits the end of cam travel one tappet when fully pulled back had a good 1 or 1.5mm slack - I could push nozzle further back home against head so 8mm travel was probably 7mm way too little to feed n seal properly - more reopening of box again refit best possible tappet I could find - also noted the tappet plates vary a bit - the one I'm using has the nozzle mount U "ridge" slight forward of tappet mount - where as shs tappet the nozzle ridge was further back and nozzle sat a smidge further back on the shs tappet plate (possible better feed but not so great rammed home against bucking to seal) Jeez what a f*cking nightmare and it seems to like mid-caps than high caps Never experienced so much grief - they normally punched as expected or there abouts and yes the red shs nozzle was same size or nigh on exact same size as stock nozzle fitted so wasn't expecting to grind nozzle which I decided against as if too much removed I could be boned Yeah I feel ya pain - the fps drop could be the nozzle not quite sealing 101% on the lip of the bucking that is where you might be losing and not the gun/box itself Yeah right pain in the ar$e I know

Kinda hard to fathom exactly what you are saying but "might" be the selector gears & plate wrongly aligned so it doesn't fire correctly probably 1 cog out on the gears like the common AK problem if the gear mechanism is out of whack a smidge

Agreed but a while ago on a totally different forum I've seen things really snowball and seen way too much mud slinging and stuff maybe OP was bull$hitting and got found out - dunno don't care. If they ripped/scammed others - especially me then I would care I'd very much doubt if we would choose any new company over our favourites - nor do I think AK2M4 has anything to worry about yet By all means expose the truth or inflated prices and all that - expose any scammers etc..... But it carrying on when point has been made and us continuing to rip it further apart is not need or a good image for this place perhaps

Near enough to me but got a crooked neck now ffs could of maybe gone a smidge more but the sides of teeth look to be slapping each other so by doing this you won't get the big initial pick up tooth snapping off at higher speeds (done that twice before penny dropped that you can't just drop a beefy motor & 11.1v in a gun) it is all down to your own preference and what increments you can work to in the end you can trim a thin 2mm washer/pad and slip behind piston head - once done up it will compress to 1mm thickness so taking a 1mm pad and doing the same would give you 0.5mm squish to push piston a smidge further back BUT it looks fine - the more AOE you do the more fps you will lose as stroke is slightly reduced but if you improved the seals - better o-ring on piston getting a better seal and ptfe on cylinder head, o-ring nozzle you claw back what you might lose doing AOE - aprox 10-15fps For added boost add a bearing spring guide - this will also compress spring a smidge more to put you back up or a little more than before Please ensure that EVERYTHING you add/replace operates smoothly and doesn't catch/snag one of the best tools you can have is a small set of craft files - coz a lot of them TM compatible parts very often benefit from a smoothing over You can chuck the best parts in the world in a box and still won't last as long as a load of old crappy parts from a spares box carefully assembled You are taking your time step by step which should yeild great effective results once you are finished AOE looks fine to me - but my friggin neck hurts now - next time rotate the bloomin' pic ps - what box is that - piston looks G&G-ish but brass cylinder I haven't seen in my v2 G&G's - usually blue cylinder

No offense chaps - but I think we have pulled this apart enough maybe unwise the way it was presented but reckon the op knows that now...... think the point has been made and don't think I'm gonna close my GF TWA LWA etc.... accounts just yet

With regards to cheating chrono I often wondered at the chrono - no mag required hold gun upright - marshall drops in his own 0.20bb the bb would roll down barrel stopping just other side of hop up holding gun at a slight incline to prevent bb rolling forward NOW chrono it - deffo bb is 0.20gms, the hop wouldn't really matter if it was wound right on coz bb stops just in front of hop now Readings should be slightly higher than a gun setup to fire 0.20's with hop on a little but suppose site could allow say 360 - 365 max as their own 0.20 bb was fired with no real hop/spin on it This would also save people who have their hop set just perfect for say 0.30 or 0.25's having to wind it fully off just for chrono As a few sites demand zero hop off I am lead to think Really never saw any joule creep on aeg's like I said - but maybe gas - green gas/propane may expand or behave differently as it propels bb Maybe - and this is just pure bollox maybe when it reaches end of barrel is reacts slightly as it exits the barrel pushing the bb hit the air outside Dunno about CO2 guns - they might also or might not have joule creep Would be interesting to see if the HPA guns have any joule creep as they are using normal compressed dry air - unless they add anything else so in effect what is being expelled is the same stuff an aeg fires so to speak If so then in "theory" if HPA's didn't suffer creep then it would point to the type of gas used in propelling the bb and would point to Gas Guns would only have to watched for creep But yeah end of day the chrono is not 101% perfect but it is a rough basic test to start to ensure we have similar powered guns within the limits of site Still could run a hot gun but that would mainly down to deliberate cheating rather than some gas guns having a bit of creep

Mr cheapo G&G here.... Did you look at the sexy MK18 (crap mid cap) or the GC16 30th metal both £150 airsoftworld and my own personal favourites - cheap and great value for money very nice to work on and tweak. Yes everybody has CM's but then they are the Ford Transit's of airsoft but.... if something is very popular/common it usually means it is a good bang for ya buck so to speak

well the 28b have the swing under folding stock with holes at side but not at the very back of receiver the others don't have side holes and have the opening right at the very back for either the regular AK rear wired stock or the M4 stock tube thingy if by the folding side stock you mean like in a 028U then you may need a different receiver if that is the case then just buy a 028U from Taiwangun if you have ukara as euro is good exchange atm (ok not extactly the upgrade but time you source a new reciever you may as well source a metal one i guess or just buy the 28u) http://www.taiwangun.com/en/cm-028u?from=listing&campaign-id=19

morning from..... Sorry couldn't resist it ignore me - but nice choice of AK but if I read it correctly.... if you got say a Cyma 028B or 028S underside stock and you seek to get a 028U for example then think that requires a different receiver soz if I got this wrong - still a nice gun whatever model it is

stop buying new nimah or nicad's if 9.6v is a good price s/hand yeah ok maybe but me - just go lipo and be done with it there is the 9.9v life batteries which are a good gap filler between 7.4v & 11.1v lipo's but on tweaked guns with high rof my 9.9v life's hardly showed any real increase over decent 7.4v lipo's even a 30c 9.9v life fresh off charge showed very little extra zest compared to my regular 25c & 30c 7.4v's Stock & mildly tweaked guns yeah - the life fills the lipo gap but must be a limit on the juice it can supply coz not an amazing boost with higher springs/rof setups if you seek higher rof then eventually a good neo motor and lipo is way to go anything else will hold you back

a very good retailer like firesupport but most likely they will have to order it might be better emailing G&G direct as their customer support is very good and they be able to give you an all in cost for any of their parts

Usually orange or blue or green it has to be EASILY noticed that it is not a real or realistic looking gun jeez - read up a bit, no offense but have a look about - don't buy ANYTHING especially from JBBG ffs GO AND RENT AND PLAY - it isn't for everybody especially unfit lazy COD players - I like COD but it is a lot - no totally different to sitting on ya ar$e Excuse our sarcasim - you are getting the idea we get so many of these questions and yet there are so many good sticky's yes rent n play to test the water - then take it from there I'm sure you will be hooked but go slowly at first Loads of us took the plunge and bought Fantastic Quality Pro Guns from places like JBBG and seriously regretted it - don't rush or buy anything yet - just try it out a few times first a decent AEG starter gun will be about £125 to £150 and it WON'T come from JBBG that is still gonna be £200+ once you add battery/charger/goggles/mag/bb's/boots etc.... So pop down to a local site and get playing first and you may find you like the rental guns or what other players are using please read this lot: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/3581-new-and-looking-for-somewhere-to-play/ lots more here: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/ Think I'm done on this for the moment

Gifting - is a bit dodgy in some cases but then I'm ukara'd and gifted my son so to speak your parents may buy a IF 2-tone gun for you - which they are gifting as you can't buy jack if under 18 the dodgy area if a minor or non-ukara'd person asks other with defense to purchase them an IF or RIF on their behalf THIS is the bit that is met with a usual F*CK OFF as it is breaking the law/guidelines of vcra act plus the ukara'd person can get in $hit as well as being an ultra dick as these guidelines are there to enable us to continue (despite some people trying to stop/ban us - Australia still bans airsoft, thankfully I don't live down under)

#*$^ it - way too slow on this jeez didn't know it was gonna be a quick fire round

Automatic Electric Gun (others are gas guns, or one shot & cock (springers) like very cheap pistols or snipers) you can buy a IF - Immitation Firearm = 2-tone to easily display it is not a real or real looking gun Once you have defense - been playing a while you can get a RIF (black gun - or tan, not a 2-tone gun) You still need to be 18+ to buy a 2-tone or RIF (2-tone) and you can only get ukara (defense) if 18+ there are other ways to obtain stuff if "gifted" but in general the above stuff is valid or applies

Well I was kinda close There might be a kind of way of saving the settings to overide the default ones permanently or it could be faulty I guess - not had one but the King Kong II was a bitch to get ya head round I screwed up more than once but luckily there was a reset to default once programmed it stays that way - even when reconnecting a new battery - but must wait 5 secs (first 5 secs booting is when you program it - so if you pull trigger then you can mess it all up) soz that is KKBWE2 - not had a ascu - earlier ones were external - later revisions where inside box to be honest if you took it to a pro - they would know more than you n me. they would know if it is faulty unit or user error - no offense if faulty - when they service it they could replace it with a normal fet or another burst control unit There are a few out there if you like the bells n whistles stuff I like external fets & wizards, easier to replace if they go wrong or you wanna change it about for another type Merf 2 is a cheaper external option and sure there's loads more

it is probably programmed wrong or you are using the wrong battery for it as it may have been programmed for burst on a certain battery.... chrono the thing it probably has a leak or buggered hop take it to a professional/shop coz it probably just needs a quick service and reset the thing back to default settings

perfect for first loadout might need another mag & battery perhaps - but for first outing bang on might want full finger gloves for bit better protection but then it ain't so cold now pair off boots next but you can scrape by with trainer boots with good soles you did your research - full marks for that sir (good gun btw)