Sitting Duck

No Germany was not a threat to us - it is well documented Hitler did not seek conflict with Britain as he saw similarities to Germany Also the links from certain members of Royal family - we was at that time regarded as no threat to Germany..... How long that may have lasted - who knows ??? Maybe if Germany had aquired most of the French fleet they may have a strong reason and fleet to cross the channel (hence we blew the f*ck out of french fleet soon after Paris fell to Germany - no wonder the french hate us) All wars/conflicts are a waste of lives, time & money - if the human race didn't have the selfish greed gene and its ability to $hit on people then there would be far less conflicts - We have entered into numerous conflicts over the centuries the more recent ones may not have been wisest decisions - but we are screwed whatever we do....... In some conflicts the West - US, UK Europe etc.... if we don't get involved we are accused of doing nothing or turning our backs If we do offer to support or assist we risk provoking situations or making matters worse.... Hindsight is a wonderful thing to look back and pass judgement - maybe the west should of left Saddam Gadafii & f*ck knows who else in charge The whole middle East is a mess and very doubt if any real democracy will ever work coz they are so used to a dictatorship to keep them in line But as we know - if there wasn't oil out there - the west really wouldn't give a f*ck about it so much Again all about selfish greed & a sprinkle of wishing to control others - that is where a lot of wars have come from The rest of wars over history were about religion or politics - 2 subjects that certainly ain't worth a w@nk or losing ya life over This country/UK has made judgements - some right - some very wrong in making a stance it is a fine difficult line to walk - but think most of the judgements were deemed to be the right decisions made at the time Politicians are certainly not perfect - neither are the public - wish more difficult decisions were subject to a vote by UK citizens So yeah - why not let people decide on Europe rather than being TOLD to stay in Europe If there was a major conflict issue - hopefully they could at very least gauge if Syria was in best interest or not Or do we do little to intervene, or do we worth with devil we know to maybe rid IS - well doubt if that will happen but reduce IS by working with the lesser of the two evils - a tough call or bury head in sand I do not have the answers - but I trust/hope the elected goverment to listen and CONTINUE to listen to the people who appointed them If they are not sure - then admit that and seek advice or UK vote etc.... to me that shows they are working for the majority of UK and giving the people some power back to make decisions etc.... Obviously this is a lot harder than what I said above but you do wonder why us stupid UK lot aren't kept better informed (then we wouldn't be so stupid maybe), but also - yeah why didn't we have a vote on the middle east why don't we have a vote on Europe ????? somewhere there is a workable balance but Tories are saying well yeah maybe vote on Europe UKIP - say wtf lets vote on this sooner rather than later - why haven't we had this vote already ?? Rest of them - NO WE ARE STAYING IN EUROPE - yeah some "democracy" I am trying to stay out this coz I understand we all have different views and I do not seek to change anybody's own views just now n then feel the need to express my own views but do not wish to enter into any rows or long drawn out debates very little will change - opinions or politics but do feel a vote on Europe is a good way to settle it plus controls on immigrantion does not mean I am a member of the local KKK ffs just makes sense we need to make cuts and reductions in all areas if we are still in the $hit a bit and want to try and get out of it

As a very very very ROUGH guide...... Box open, no spring/cylinder/tappet plate etc.... Start with big middle or Spur gear & bevel gear.... bushings: require much less shims than bearings thin shim under spur gear & few shims on top bevel gear few shims underneath & thin shim on top bearings - similar but will require say 2 thin or a medium shim under spur & on top of bevel - then a tiny bit more to take up "slack" Sector is done last after those gears and shimmed as what is required - but after spur/bevel The bevel gear is shimmed a tiny bit higher than a tiny bit too low - coz as motor is wound inwards it forces the bevel gear up a bit - more so if bevel is too low being forced upwards to get a good "mesh" between motor/bevel if bevel is way too low it is forced tight against bushing/bearing and really strains the motor and box..... NB: please note this is a very very rough guide and please seek out a few videos on how to shim - watch a couple at least with good reviews/comments I only put this rough crap description together to try and describe where I was going wrong on my first lot of gearbox tinkering...... It really was a bad set of guidelines I was following on a repair kit instruction that only after I googled and watched stuff I realised what bollox I was doing you should check and really take your time in shimming and aim to get it as best as you really can, don't aim for perfect zero play shimming a little isn't bad when holding box together by hand - but should test by tighten - NOT MEGA TIGHT the box up, coz when screwed up that little play by hand halves itself when screwed up.... The way the gears lay/sit, a tiny gap as gears lay in box but don't cross etc.... - sounds simple but can take 6, 12 or more attempts to acheive the best possible shimming results you can get or get within your own skill/patience/ability etc.... The better it is shimmed the longer it will last - fit the best possible bits in there but if they are just chucked in even a crap box with pi$$ poor bits but properly assembled box will last longer

On the subject of not getting dragged into wars that don't concern us.... yes the UK has stuck its nose into quite a few conflicts that don't concern us yes we still await the outcome on Iraq/Blair bollox until after the election.... Still if we kept our noses out of other countries - I suppose the whole Scotland Europe and who to vote for UK goverment wouldn't be an issue We could very likely be in Europe for good - Hiltler's Europe

hmmmmmm...... just risked my life in a flimsy boat, but just about arrived in Italy, now shall I pop over to say Greece ??? Or somewhere else perhaps further with a crappier climate but lots more freebies ???? Yeah - lets pop over to Greece - not No I am not racist - but if UK isn't #1 it must be a very very close 2nd or in the top 3 The UK has and probably will continue to reduce its outgoings in a bid to reduce its debt This applies to all areas - some I don't agree to but all the same reductions need to be made However - moment any mention of reducing immigrantion - racism comes to mind ??? There is a balance in everything - it is a very techy taboo subject that all countries suffer with - USA, Australia etc.... Even a "points" system will not solve it I fully understand that - but it would be a start at least Lots of parties acknowledge and even talk about do something - but so far they have done very little/nothing The other main parties got their ar$es kicked with the Euro Elections - yes it probably was protest vote with UKIP gaining so much ground But now comes the time that they - the main parties are so desperate for our votes they will say anything.... Yet the 2 main parties have had their terms in office but very little has been implemented Not just on immigration - loads of proposals could have come into effect - screw the red tape they all try to blame Sorry but if a goverment - or really anybody wants to do something then very little would deter them if somebody really really wanted to fufill their plan But I strongly feel the UK is on most immigrants short list, if we are making reductions everywhere else why not immigration is what many UK citizens are wondering ? Racist ??? - forget UK a sec - I feel we are a little way off before we carry out attacks like those seen in South Africa I have no plans to start building any Gas Chambers but just feel perhaps we need to ease up a bit on immigration - at least for a short while perhaps And as for any party pulling us out of Europe - bollox it will be a vote by the people who decide if we withdraw or not - the people will decide not the parties I would love a vote if we should stay or go - but if the vote is to stay in Europe and the UK citizens decides I will gladly accept it and that will be that for I guess the next generation to decide should it arise in the future I won't bitch n moan, resign from my post as leader the next day or hint I want a re-run

Daft silly question......... When replacing switch and working on wiring inside did you mess about with gears/shimming - were they removed/knocked and not refitted correctly ??? coz a bevel gear set too low will put greater strain on motor as you wind the motor inwards and pushes the bevel gear very hard into bushing/bearing creating stress for motor/box & heat too for motor I started to follow very bad out of date instruction at first and know first hand what can result if bevel is shimmed to low

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ must read - give them other guides a quick glance over too but you don't need to spend a fortune just yet..... but if you continue you probably will keep on buying more poxy guns as my other half says..... welcome to forum - and to airsoft - toy guns have never been such fun

you will have to check it with battery really unless you know the difference..... there is a spring on trigger itself but also the spring n1ckh refers to is the tiny spring that pulls the plunger back from contacts if it breaks you have a slightly reduced tension but still 85-90% resitance is from heavier trigger spring so you "may" not feel difference if switch is sticking.... - full pull of trigger and then as it sticks you notice the trigger is just a tad lighter...... flick it and it pops back but you don't really hear it - just you can feel it ever so slightly lighter if you know ya gun if switch spring has popped off or broke then there will be no change ever know matter how hard you flick trigger coz switch won't come back and break circuit like it should coz no switch spring - trigger spring only applies to trigger so it will always be stuck on & permanently firing..... in any case - it is very likely - well almost deffo not gonna fix itself and need opening to sort it properly (it could have been a "one off" sticky switch by pulling trigger really hard - had that once and gun didn't seem to do it ever again) leave it for tonight - let everyone sleep and do some test later..... if your gun needs a spring change/service blah blah blah then it can all be done when the switch problem fixed - nothing major just a spring or adjust the contacts - depending on fault

trigger - well actually switch problems really or you pulled the trigger really hard and the contacts were tight it keeps it there - even if switch spring all ok had this happen just recently - usually if this happens though a rapid flick of trigger and she should release/fly back....... if you know your gun you can feel it - pulling the trigger just don't feel the same if it don't fly back when you flick or keep flicking trigger then spring came off/broke like n1ckh said - it is just staying there stuck on again the trigger will be lighter coz it hasn't the little extra tension from the switch's release spring so to speak if you can get to realease the switch and see if she fires again it is gonna be switch related probably and may need to open up box to fix if it persists (you may get by by not pulling trigger too hard and ramming the plunger part of switch right into contacts or if spring is broke then you gotta open her up I'm afraid) if when the switch "pops" on semi then trigger is dead that could be the stop pin - but your problem is sticking on full auto numerous other problems also happen with cut off/selector - yeah it is an antiquated poxy design but it does kinda work - usually But yeah broke spring/came off, or sticky contacts on heavy full trigger pull are possible things to check

hobbyking - europe department, and shipment for eur hobbyking is from Netherlands check battery you seek - click on european warehouse - job done

it might also be spring but I really doubt it - you replaced stock spring with shs m100 a little while ago that should put you at 330-340-ish, now say 6 months later you should still be hitting 300-ish all springs lose tension a little - more so if spring parked badly pre-cocked should not have lost so much ooomphh unless serious wear n tear/bad spring park etc.... get seals sorted, then check hop malarky that should improve fps me thinks

Can always try a 9.9v LiFe battery but range is limited compared to LiPo Personally - a couple of tweaks - even just fitting deans will help & a 7.4v 20/25c lipo will give similar results I have used the old school ones in the past but can't see me buying them new, but yeah component shop or hobbyking is great place for stuff

co2 is very often way over 350 on a fresh bulb - not uncommon to see like 500 on first couple of shots hence most sites & users prefer green gas green gas can bought from any airsoft shop/site or use propane - colman's propane cannister or if you go nutz with gas guns peeps go for the bigger refillable bottles & adapter kit to fill a smaller canister for taking to sites

yes no tape or even extra thin o-ring either under piston's main o-ring I thought that might work better but f*cks it all up with another tiny thin ring/tape is weird but the piston & o-ring design is to allow air into chamber from rear as piston is pulled back (or it can create a vaccum if sealed completely) then those same little piston vents/holes that filled with air - now help to seal the o-ring/cylinder as piston is released (quite clever really) Your Double o-ring piston should work well but all the same never hurts to try another o-ring or two and compare so... Try another couple of o-ring's and wrap ptfe tape on cylinder head say 3 full turns maybe until it is tighter to fit to cylinder test out the compression test again and again keep at it - when you get these all good the seal is like water in there but still hardly any drag pulling piston back - a £10 or £15 cylinder head may work better with a crappy cheap/used piston or vice versa - is weird but often what I thought was gonna be a very good seal turns out not so brilliant as I thought and when you get a great seal like I said you really notice it on compression test - even with a cheap used bit in there..... Even different o-rings - some used ones can work better - it is weird but some $hit works really great and some not so.... if after all that your piston is making good seal on cylinder head/nozzle then my guess is hop area...... check if there is a spring at front of hop or look to fit one or card or thin small o-ring to push hop against nozzle change bucking if still no joy - if still crap try another hop - but shouldn't come to this I feel if box/nozzle is good - then it ain't the box - but what's after it I reckon is where you might be losing it poxy guns

yup looks like some decent stuff on there, like the blue instead of orange Do you have a shop or mail order only ??? - just in case people want to pop in etc..... As long as your products are well described - truthful & honesty along with customer service then you should do well - a couple of the other sites really lack this so there is a possible gap there best of luck

G&G M4 - buy new from zero one coz they are one of places that 2-tone for free could get one second hand but if you can stretch/afford new it might be worth it than newcomer taking a chance (Raider is worth the £6 extra over a carbine if you want rails etc.....) if it ahem "rubs off" or gets a "splash" on it - most on here won't really care Just openly posting about bypassing the regulations/procedures is perhaps a little unwise The vcra/ukara is there to allow us to continue playing with toy guns and keep do-gooders that seek to ban this sport - semi-happy Not saying every single bit makes perfect logical & realistic sense but in Australia - it is still banned So we abide by them regulations - yes there are say some grey or possible loopholes in there But this forum like many others and its members have to demonstrate they are complying with the rules/regulations/guidelines/law etc...... So yeah it was a bit unwise or dumb - but don't worry most of the stuff I type is bollox anyway Welcome to forum - avoid ukara/vcra posts along with scottish/english politics - always spark riots in here OMG - just found this run down of gestures for use out in the field -pmsl now at last I can look like a pro out there even though I shoot like a girl.... (soz to derail/hijack but saw this and had to post it)

Final test on neo motor Soz chaps I'm quitting whilst ahead - not gonna try 11.1v - piston was about 22.2gms and not gonna risk PE trying to show off 55 - 60..... besides she is starting to struggle feeding - did put o-ring on barrel/hop coz bit of play (no spring on hop up so thought I'd try o-ring method but hardly fed with than on) So yeah nearly doubled the stock HC05 on 7.4v - 21-22rps and well over the 29rps on 11.1v it says on box so calling it a day on pushing her - I've broke plenty of guns doing that already...... 40.61rps - did get 40.78 but wtf - its over 40 on a 7.4v !!!!!! This is still quite a bit of work to get here - the G&G box has been well muller'd to get thicker wires in there (I mean well muller'd - the file rarely left my hand it seemed at times) AR latch changed to thinner Element AR latch to avoid it snagging Also Element Bearing Spring Guide coz G&G's one was not very secure SHS Red M4 nozzle single o-ring not double o-ring version Swiss Cheese - my first piston trying to get her light as possible - lots of weighing n crap Trying to get her to shim as best as possible - took yonks and still not perfectly totally screech free imho (alas I do not have a thinner 5mm shim for sector gear is where it might be) One thing I did learn was to check EVERYTHING when rebuilding the box - sounds obvious I checked and found the cheese piston was binding - sanded sides of piston and slipped smoothly in the runners AR latch a little sticky but sorted that, certain cylinder heads didn't fit perfectly - used a JG v3 one with double ring & tape Piston & piston head kept as light as possible without losing strength, new better spring guide etc...... BUT I failed to check the switch which I hardly touched - kept sticking and so had to open her up again - lesson learnt Yeah - that is unlikely to happen again - but along with all checking & using the file again and again I fully understand how you can't really rush stuff if you want to do it properly or as best as I could in my case....... For the record I will say that the G&G DSG was on a 18:1 or maybe 18.5:1 gear setup I installed a bevel & spur from a SHS 16:1 or 16.5:1 gear set so this allowed an aproximate 10% increase perhaps (SHS DSG's are designed to work with 18:1 and/or 16:1 - possible tiny smidge more "lash" in spur/sector teeth engangement) So not quite as super duper brilliant as it first seems - maybe 37-ish if used a 18:1 gear set I guess on 7.4v All the same - I think the Big Dragon M160 motor is a bloody good cheap neo motor. I will be trying out some others maybe but for now the BD M160 is pretty damn good (do not sue me if it busts your gun though - but gives good grunt & speed without spending a fortune £30/$45) A massive mega fanx 1,000,000 to all people who helped and posted hints/tips/tricks on various forums All of which meant this humble noob could learn from their wisdom and time taken to pass on this knowledge to others.... Too too many to list but thanks to all of you, LWA for getting these in & I guess G&G for doing it not quite as well as it could be

just don't get the mp5M version with m4 stock - no really don't it has extra plastic on it and is a bastid coz you have to unscrew the plastic ris/cowling to change battery was gonna suggest Galaxy as I am such a cheapskate But also if travelling gets lost/damaged - then no big finacial loss over a more expensive TM one NOT THISBASTID BATTERY so you got choice of the usual compact one: http://www.taiwangun.com/en/g-5k-galaxy?from=listing&campaign-id=19 or the folding stock version for a about a fiver more: http://www.taiwangun.com/en/g-5-galaxy?from=listing&campaign-id=19 you could get folding one and if you decide sod the stock get a blanking plate for about £10 on fleabay eg: http://ant-supplies.co.uk/Pages/MP5SwivelEndCaps.aspx but seen them a bit cheaper on fleabay etc... or suppose get the sliding stock or whatever you may prefer but Galaxy mp5 - brill cheap little mofo - if only aep's could perform this good

it is a spacer from airsoft world.net http://www.airsoftworld.net/piston-spacer-for-army-armament-r85.html and both boxes split into two - the Army is a clone of G&G's box but gonna back out coz I will admit coz I only know the theory side I've yet to rip open my R85's, so will let the more experienced - hands on chaps continue

I have a couple of neo-dym motors to try in next 24hrs when peeps are at work I know I have a SHS high torque but feel that a Big Dragon M160 may be the one to unleash this better (very impressed with the 160 both in speed & grunt in normal builds over other hi speed and torque motors) admit no where near them Satan motors but talking £30 for motor not £50 - £75 for top/higher end guns - my teching skills is still nooby but this blue advanced motor is ferrite - black magnets and is same stock one fitted to std FH - not cracked my Top Tech one open yet but std FH runs slower than earlier one - 23.5:1 gears and this motor Big Dragon M160 in AK12 was hitting nearly 25 on 7.4v on stock 18:1 gears @ 350+, so look forward as to what it can do in here I didn't wanna keep pi$$ing them off if relaxing in their garden - this thing is loud but now more rapidly loud so will do more tests later in morning or early afternoon I don't know the exact spring but would of thought it a bit more than m150 as though it is being pulled back half the distance on 8 teeth the first half doesn't compress the spring quite like the last half compresses it under a greater strain/load maybe i thought in general you look to double the basic mxxx rating - in this case m85 - m90 for a 300 - 310 setup trust me this was a mother f*cker spring to get in on my own - really came very close to giving up most use around m160/170 on acm but even so it could be hitting a bit more - better but not brilliant cylinder head seal perhaps (just cheap used plastic double o-ring cylinder head with ptfe on it but still better than stock, lost a tiny bit coz AOE too) and yes that video was me at least 10 - 15 times maybe more.... Once I tried again after the cylinder/piston tried to launch into outer space again like one of them cartoons with a bump that gets whacked and then the bump moves to another place under carpet etc.... anyway finally got it to close up - phew, blew down nozzle - wow good seal it seems, lets see it move yeah that is nice.... Then the nozzle came away from head as it became obvious that when it "jumped" - the nozzle came out of tappet plate but I didn't notice when I was delighted I finally closed her up - yeah mega joy turns to despair..... Another was on final closing the f*cking trigger decides it is having second thoughts and partly pops out of place no real way to pop trigger spring in it seemed - jeez mofo bastid G&G pile of crap DSG etc..... Then finally on about attempt 15 it closes up but switch sticks a bit - just f*cking great and so I left it a few days So today got a chance to bust it open - bust open being a very good word. Remove switch, swing away from box and light file on main housing, keeping bits away from box now all greased up the contacts operate but not too strongly - both sides of contacts moving but not so tightly.... The plunger part of switch filed and sanded a little more, reassemble and press quite firmly to ensure she don't catch gearbox case on, no spring or cylinder and really pressing hard down on box the switch don't catch or bind/pinched.... OK now I will try and reassemble once again..... Big deep breaths, a few prayers and about attempt #4 she kinda goes in, still a little wiggle bit here n there.... Go on, go on please just close fully, pretty please, CLIP - thank you thank you thank you..... Now the fun bit of holding it together whilst you turn the bloody thing over to insert screws - yup made it so far finally after most of the screws are nearly in box I can breathe and hope - yup trigger is working..... Me always panic - did that piston jump of its track - is that really bang in line or did she jump off tracks ???? (I ain't bloody opening her up to see now after all this crap - she can shred and I will fit a SSG in there) With all the crap of closing her up and against the so called improvements I personally think DSG's are over rated Think it really stands for: Dis $hitty Gearbox

Really - they now using 13 or 14 teeth piston as standard ??? sounds kinda wrong coz means that piston would have even less stroke 14 x 3mm pitch than a AK47 or M4's stroke 16 x 3mm odd thing is the L85 or R85 has around a 510 barrel so shorter piston than AK / M4 don't make sense BUT G&G have done some odd things lately.... Normally it used to be extra 3 teeth than aeg 16 teeth they might call it 15 or 14 teeth (2nd tooth missing already) but add 1 more for pick up tooth so aeg's use 16 teeth..... - well on sector gear even if 1 or 2 teeth missing - it still gets pulled back 16 x 3mm + 1/2 tooth to release = 50mm max stroke L85's etc.... 19 x 3mm + 1/2 nearly 60mm stroke L85's SR25 - some of them & SVD may use the 19 tooth - 3 x3mm = 9mm extra stroke to allow say 550 to 600+ barrels (L85 may have some porting near back coz not using full volume quota on 510 barrel) So it does sound a bit weird to now go with shorter pistons than before from the factory here is a couple of posts for you to read perhaps..... http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/l85-build-thread-60649/ & http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/13436-solving-the-r85-piston-problem/ a bit old but they deffo used to be 19 teeth by default have a look and post some pics if possible

OK she is back together - but a little tiny bit screatchy, hmmmm my guess that sector is still a bit crap - or my bevel is a little low but thinks not reckon sector is maybe a little tight or angle of motor perhaps....... (forgot to take pic of how bad the two halves of box meet at bottom where motor goes - jeez its crap & grip can wobble quite a bit) anyway - just under 27rps now fetted & rewired - probably 27 as I got 3 sets of deans on there I just plugged in a rough mosfet for quick testing - I will tidy her up later but just wanted to fire some crap off 27rps & 311.6fps on stock motor & 7.4v lipo - which means it could hit 40rps on a 11.1v perhaps not absolutely brilliant - kinda hoping for 30 on 7.4v but this is still a ferrite motor which despite the label ain't that advanced imho still not ultra impressed with DSG and certainly not with this HC05 FireHawk quality...... anyway some pics: my first cheesy piston: The gearbox with 9/5mm sector ceramic, the smaller 9/3mm spur ceramic moved up from bevel & SHS 9/3mm bearing: A very rough thrown together test station - don't laugh it ain't finished yet: and the first lot of results on a 7.4v with stock "advanced ferrite" motor: 38.77rof on 11.1v lipo - now where's that mofo motor..... Ahhhh crap - missus said that enough - in other words if its pi$$ing her off then it is sure as hell must be pi$$ing my neighbours off - so maybe leave until they out at work (personally think relaxing in ya garden ain't complete unless you are firing off loads of bb's - but hey ho) The other step to maybe get around the no semi is to try out a King Kong II which is supposed to be a 3034 wired in as opposed to plugged in - then set burst mode to single - manual or instructions seem to have loads of options and they say easy to flip to burst/auto..... Ahhhh but forget that switching bit....... Install Kong and basic 3034 fet for full auto..... Then both wired up but just a small switch to toggle the signal wires to either: Kong on single shot burst or 3034 for full auto....... Could work but unsure about any spikes from other fet - though my own crude diy has TVS diode and maybe kong has one in too - though the circuit is to prevent spikes flowing back to other end of fet But hey - wtf it might work, but that is for later $hits n giggles testing..... ATM - forget DSG crap and really don't bother with HC05, it is crap tbh get a normal FH/M4 Stubby or AK74 or G36c and just do a mild say 16:1 or 14:1 gearset build, short stroke if needed easily get 25-30 on 7.4v if done properly and not have springs flying all over the place or risk having ya eyes pulled out

Minor update - jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Got box back together a few days ago - finally, and what a git that mofo spring is for those that don't know - DSG's use a much stronger spring almost double as piston is half stroked so that spring is probably say a m170-180 - yeah that is "fun" imagine your first box you opened and the joy you had closing it back up...... now multiply that by about 4.......... It is like trying to put back a baby in the delivery room - lots of screaming, sweating & swearing the times the guide & spring shot across the room - jeez think I need my mask & goggles for this I'm not joking - like about 10+ attempts maybe more, couple of yes - oh no the nozzle or trigger spring has unhooked Well I got it back together but then noticed the trigger was sticking - I can feel that sometimes the trigger releases but I can feel the switch hasn't come back and is binding or sticking - GREAT JUST F*$KING GREAT !!!!! only thing I hardly touched so can't work out why - resoldered the fet signal wires - but one went straight on and the other was fine but just a smidge more solder added - so doubt if I welded/melted the plastic or it misformed from heat All the same - somehow the switch assembly is pinched, misaligned or something and she is sticking ON now n then Gutted doesn't even begin to cut it. Suffice to say the thought of opening her back up and I have had some more important things (Work, Life, Wife moaning about toy guns, no I had to get on with other stuff so just left it a few days) Oh well now gotta open it all back up - kaboom, check, smooth or replace switch and try to gets this baby back where it came from My own view is sod these DSG's even more now - will deffo just short stroke for higher rof's and get similar results without the grief

Just noticed you got ICS which means you can change spring without opening box up completely....... Many think say sniping sounds great but in actual fact a lot of people decide it is not really for them, They become bored hanging back, overwatching and having to switch to secondary/retreat back as enemy closes in inside their MED That in mind I would reckon you should decide if it is gonna be for you or just think it sounds good Hence talk to others & maybe start games supporting or close to these guys - see how they play and see if you can see yourself If enemy starts to close in below MED - then it is down to you to assist to prevent your DM guys being overun.... If you decide you still wanna go down that route - you need to lock your gun to semi.... One consideration is perhaps the "proper" burst wizard fet that can be programmed to fire only one shot in full auto and should be ok for most sites - some sites can be picky on what classifies as DMR rather than a tarted up M4. The Kong II is a proper 3034 burst fet but can be plugged in - not the proper instal but could fit this as temporary measure So you could fir a stronger spring - lock to semi with burst - Kong is proper, the avacado is not a proper 3034 fet Then try the DMR role and see how you go first.... If you think - hmm maybe or maybe not you haven't altered your gun too much.... Your ICS infinate or turbo should pull a higher spring ok for moment, many warmer imported guns shoot 400fps on much lower stock motors So you should be fine to test out a DMR role for a skirmish or two with say 9.6v nimah or 7.4v lipo's If after this testing of the water you wish to proceed then you can hardwire the Kong II in there, service box & seals aoe etc...... rewire deans blah blah blah - then that will improve the response and you will notice the difference even on stock motor Safely use 11.1v batteries and not need the torque motor just yet - it can be done later if needed Takes 5 mins to swap over motor - but coz you had the rewire and Kong hard wired properly in - all the donkey work is done already. So if you are thinking of going down the DMR route - I would at very least chat & support any DM players first, offer support and try to get a feel for that role to see if you think you will see yourself shooting less and not going nutz assaulting with regular aeg players You can then do it in stages for a short brief while but easy on the juice until a fet is properly wired in before you go nutz on 11.1v Plugging in a fet - even the Kong type does NOT offer any trigger contact protection until it is wired in properly Well that is my take on it - many "think" DMR but reckon you should test the water first before you commit to any real upgrades (though apart from quick spring change - the upgrades wouldn't be a waste but perhaps not an absolute must gotta spend out for normal aeg) Kong was only one type - you could install a super duper Merf 3.2 for a little bit more, but is an Active Braking fet and AB's can put a little more on motor as they brake the motor by reversing polarity. Some only use AB if they really need it I am pretty sure the Kong II is not AB but offers standard non-AB 3034 with bells n whistles but there may be others Merf 3.2 is AB and the AB can not be disabled - but a burst/programme fet is perhaps an easy way to lock it to semi for DMR (Again - speak to some DMR players and see what they run with and your site's guidelines also)

In a word on 11.1v - YES you should fit a mosfet. 7.4v probably ok up to a minor tweak or two. DMR say 130 spring torque motor - decent wire deans etc you should be putting a mosfet sooner rather than later... Motor will draw as much juice as it possibly can and on semi the switch contacts will attempt to arc or at very least build up with crappy carbon deposits. Eventually you will need to open box to replace switch. So I would suggest a basic mosfet n rewire - you got box open to change spring so may as well do it properly Many will fit a fet on a tweaked 7.4v setup so on that I would say deffo yes on a DMR 11.1v setup