Sitting Duck

G&G M4's are what you want Zero One & a G&G Raider - tough decision the long or short barrel version ? 2-tone is free of charge - most places charge for 2-toning or if you are one of those people that MUST have a metal M4 (even though the polymer abs G&G Combat Machines are the dogz nutz) http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-gc16-30th-anniversary-limited-edition-aeg-airsoft-rifle-black.html now you have to pay a bit for the two-tone but they do a nice snake-skin 2-tone on this full metal mofo Those are my 2 top choices for buying a 2-tone starter M4 if you get ukara'd as we say - then you can go nutz on an all black or tan Realistic Imitation Firearm.... But be warned buying these rif toys can get very addictive but there is 2 great 2-tone starters for you

You could use a 9.6v or a 9.9v LiFe Both will give a stock gun/motor a little boost But when you start tweaking guns nimah not so good And the LiFe's are seem to lose their zest on Highly tweaked guns providing very little improvement over the 7.4v lipo's I recently found out Stock and mild tweak they provide a mid range boost option between 7.4 & 11.1v lipo's But for some really weird reason it don't show up on really beefy wires n motor guns ???

Depends on how many fet's you need to buy/make/fit To make just one it may not be worth buying and making it, though whilst you solder in any ready made fetbthe iron is on anyway so a few more ttzzzssstt's ain't much more agro to put your own fet together. Hence if you got it all ready may as well make up 2 or 3 basic fet's I guess. The baby baby micro firestorm fet is worth considering basic non AB fet but £10 delivered ain't bad for a one off fet. As for bells n whistle fet's - guess it is up to everyone what they fit/use in the end

Good 3034 can be built for half that price -£2:25 if you buy say 10 genuine ones Avoid any mosfet's from fleabay China component sellers They are fakes and just melt under load £2:25 will cover gen 3034, diode, 2 resistors All you need is time - put a few together at same time Decent wire n shrink wrap Best basic 3034 is your own one if its genuine Failing that firestorm £10 baby micro fet is worth a look if peeps just need a good basic tiny fet

No coz most setups will not really really need them Plus it puts a minor strain on motor and the Rusty's guide has stopped recommending them but left info for reference only Got a few 4045's or whatever the position fet's are to go with my 3034's but as of yet if done correctly a high rof gun most likely not needed. It seems to be said a m120 & SS a couple of teeth is better way to stop double cycle and also help avoid PE Which an AB fet doesn't help when firing on full auto For most builds an AB is perhaps not needed is my feeling

The shs gen 4 gear sets are bloody gorgeous The bevel has plenty of tooth width when shimming to spur gear so plenty of room to shim bevel high and spur low etc..... runs smooth too - a very nice cost effective set of gears I don't think you can shorten the trigger pull too much even with a speed trigger, coz the switch has to go far enough to engage contacts and be in correct place for cut off to yank the switch upwards to shoot back on semi and the trigger itself has to come back far enough to relatch onto switch again..... what you could consider is to trim the trigger's spring a little to make the trigger pull lighter not where spring enters the trigger but the other end resting against gearbox shell to tension however you really need to trim that spring only a little at a time and go easy or you balls it up and will need a new trigger spring if cut too short to operate properly not quite the same but trigger will activate a tiny smidge quicker due to the lighter trigger spring (this is on a std M4 v2 gearbox - not done this on a v3 box btw)

std aeg hits say 13rps on 7.4v Mosfet on its own does f*ck all if using stock small tamiya and stock wiring (it is when the deans & rewired with thicker wire you get a 15% increase - the fet does nothing but stops contacts arcing) The fet in fact is an additional device that will take a few nano or milliseconds to trigger.... anyway deans fet & rewire will get that 13rps to say 15rps on stock motor on stock gears add in a neodym motor and that can add on anything from 10% on a slow torquey Big Dragon M140 (don't bother buying imho) to a whopping 50% over stock motor I've done this quite a few times recently to have a rough idea of what to expect recent DSG FireHawk went from say 22 stock to 27 nearly on fet deans rewire but was higher due to going from 18:1 gear to 16:1 (just under 10% gear ratio increase - actually 8% coz 16:1 is worst set out there @ 17.28:1 not expected 16.35 like 12:1 (12.65:1 actual ratio) from 27 it went to 41 with a BD m160 motor on 7.4v Anyway back to std aeg - now at say 15rps coz rewired etc.... add in a neo motor - pi$$ poor slow 10% to whippy 50% and you looking at about 17.5 to say 22.5 rps on 7.4v that output will be a decent improvement and won't double cycle at all or completely safe to avoid PE if using the stock ferrite motor it may not stop so quickly as a neodym motor with stronger magnets and "might" cycle twice if run at higher 11.1v reaching 22.5rps on ferrite with 11.1v lipo but I doubt it unless spring is worn or under m90 test each upgraded box on 7.4v first and then expect to see around a 50% increase on that figure when using the beefier 11.1v so with neo at 17.5 to 22.5 you could see 26 to 34rps on 11.1v neo motor setup on stock gears again the aprox 30rps figure should be very carefully considered as PE risk really increases at that point on stock boxes with full stroke pistons These are simply cautionary figures and warnings - as each box/build can be a bit different to my findings/examplesbut being I have smashed a few boxes up by pushing them too much I feel I need to just mention the risks of going nutz 20rps once fetted deans etc... and decent neo motor like shs torque or BD M160 when you change gears depending on what you use will increase further but the really higher speed gears will make the motor work harder of course so it needs to be up to it and not a weaker speed motor or it will run warm on doing extra work 14:1 could be to me a nice easy balance to increase ratio speeds and push up rof say 25% aprox without too many other PE or double cycle risks etc..... Bear in mind the faster you gun fires the increase in wear will likely arise and I firmly think a rof of 25 is nice figure or limit to hit without making more work when upgrading eg: shortstroking and higher springs There is a great additional thread full of wisdom but remember to not fully take it as 101% gospel as we in uk have much lower limits than the yanks over the pond with their higher fps limits so though they say this n that will be fine and use a m120 full stroke - that will put us well over limits @ 393.6fps and m100/105 is what our std aeg springs are or we go up & shortstroke a tooth or two (each tooth removed will reduce fps by aprox 6% of initial fps (or multiply 393.6 fps by 0.94) eg: 394 x 0.94 = 370, 370 x 0.94 = 347.8 if removing 2 teeth of rear of piston & START of sector gear anyway soz doing Open University maths bollox - the link..... http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/

A word of caution if building that spec box.... use 7.4v ffs NOT 11.1v to test fire it that spec build will be hitting 25 to 30rps on 7.4v 25c lipo You connect an 11.1v to that box without doing more work I will guarantee two things It will deffo double cycle on semi unless an AB mosfet fitted (may even start to double cycle now n then on 7.4v) As 11.1v is 50% more juice that 7.4v (3 cells rather than 2 x 3.7v cells) it will run at nigh on 50% faster...... eg: 37 to 45rps and at that speed your new piston will DEFFO Pre Engage and strip out say teeth 5, 4 & 3 PE can take place at around 30rps upwards on stock spring & piston (it "can" get very close to PE at 25rps but only if your piston is very heavy or sluggish (binding a bit inside the box)) Some torque motors are not much faster than stock ferrite motors - perhaps the ZCI one but can pull a tank Others are quite torquey but very quick too like shs or Big Dragon M160 so it is difficult to guess what your rps might be coming in at but I firmly believe it would be in the 25-30 range on 12:1 gears on 7.4v Having recently shredded 2 pistons by taking the pi$$ a bit I strongly urge you to go easy when testing that build An AB fet will stop the double cycle on semi but won't do jack to stop PE on full auto The last piston to shred on 11.1v was actually short stroked 2 teeth on a m115-m120 spring but at 45+ it didn't make the 2nd round on full auto 31.5 on 7.4v but smashed f*ck on 11.1v maybe 14:1 gears, m110 spring and the shs blue 3 steel tooth is lovely n light @11.5gms, remove 1 tooth off piston/sector up to you what you chuck in there but seriously test on 7.4v first and depending on results and how much you did your homework.... then decide if she might be ok to risk it on 11.1v with an aprox 50% higher rof

for the folding under stock you need a different receiver.... the one you might have has the hole/mounts at rear of receiver for normal ak stock or m4 stock tube the folding underneath stock has the other type of receiver without rear hole/mount and round holes just above pistol grip at receiver's sides for folding understock or a compact stockless cqb mofo http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152189393-JG0510MG.html what you could do is fit a m4 stock adapter on there and then a full size m4 fixed stock and shove in a 5000mah battery never have to worry about changing battery again - though Ian may ban you for life though - go on I dare ya

if all else fails refit old old outer barrel the new barrel could be pushing the hop unit a smidge further back so that the nozzle doesn't clear the magwell and allow a bb to enter hop unit (even 0.5mm difference will cause feed problems - heck probably 0.25mm would) if old barrel feeds then it might be a case of comparing the two outers and carefully filing the new barrel a slither to get the hop to sit correctly forward and allowing bb's to enter hop To far forward though and you lose a good seal from nozzle to bucking - it is a very fine line sometimes it could be a tiny little burr on the cut-out or grooves for hop unit or it could be a burr or slightly thicker lip or rim of the outer barrel that is throwing out the final position of hop unit end of the day it may probably need to have both outers - side by side and make very very close comparisons and I mean very very very close comparisons - your'e lucky you got only a small concentrated area to diagnose change a few bits at once or build something from scratch and you could be looking at half a dozen headaches coz you can't exactly pinpoint as they didn't all work together ok previously...... Hence now many of us have learnt when changing the smallest part you really really need to examine and compare first AND STILL I GET AEG MIGRANES yes follow Lozart's advice but if all else fails swap back outer barrels n see if she still fires

Right removed it all - the last grey start of barrel was a bit tricky to get off remove the front black lock ring and the start of the 3 piece outer barrel comes off looks to like a normal M4 outer barrel should go in there and do up with the black lock ring ris will bolt onto the front of receiver and seems pretty sturdy anyway (could leave off the fake silver gas tube as you hardly see it or refit) all that would be required is a way to perhaps secure the front of the ris but many of them are not fully secured at front though they normally have fixings at 12, 3 6 & 9 o'clock - but the raider's ris is not very long so it "might" be ok with being fixed at just the one end Now I have my long raider in bits - I can see about removing the 2-tone of the ris but as I work shifts I gotta hit the sack but given you a possible do-able idea/notion however look around on youtube or google up "raider" outer barrel replacement or strip down see if some others chime in that have already done this but looks quite feasible atm to me

Blow me - your right - my bad just check on mine and they are not held in like most other outer m4a1's ah well finally figured out how to remove the bloody front end off me raider 2 allen keys and the outer barrel front end slides off Ahhh - now I see what you mean...... can not say a normal outer barel or front end go on there without messing up how the raider's ris is mounted it should be do-able but I will have to look into this in more exact detail I'd hate to give you more incorrect info was sure at first glance it was like other M4's with the sight held on there but yes it is all part of the casting or welded on there even has the appearance of the pins but they are not real pins when you look in close detail my bad soz for incorrect info

Raider - Long barrel version - aprox 363 inner barrel front sight is held on by 2 pins underneath that need to be carefully tapped out or drill (very carefully) vids on youtube show how to dismantle the front end ris and replace if need an inbetween 300mm barrel (always thought Raider was either a smidge too long or a smidge too short but that is just me liking the 275/300 lengths as an all rounder size) you got a full m4/16 rear sight with handle on there so I presume you are looking at fitting a cheap pair of flip sights and/or scope of some sort yup do-able and compatible - me I perhaps remove and leave barrel lengths or go for a medium raider build perhaps I'd leave the ris etc as it is coz time you buy another ris etc.... it will still be a s/hand cm raider I think that is what you are after - removing the front sight which should just slide off front of barrel/gun after popping 2 pins heck you could replace it with a flip front M4 sight - same as what is on there but it folds down/up Ahh the joys of making your gun your own - so many options, but go easy as you can easily spend loads on a gun's accessories/attachments

What version CM16 - carbine / raider long short lite etc....... what exactly do you seek to achieve - it is do-able btw but how much/far do you go ???? What I mean is if you have a carbine - front wired and you seek to put on say a ris like raider or mk18 then you may need to rethink or rewire to rear battery or peq box up front plus if buying a ris probably metal version and new outer & inner barrel perhaps then you may just wanna consider getting a raider/mk18 and selling the carbine - that was what I was meaning btw or if you have a raider say long version and wanting a shorter version with flip sights etc..... yes you could sell the old m4a1 carbine front end for a bit but those are very common perhaps if you have a carbine look for maybe a ris handguard & peq box might be cheaper/simpler/easiest options if you enlighten us with exact cm16 model it would help and what you seek to make it into or look like

welcome to the grown up toy gun forum better starter than I first bought

yup I blame my son, we tried paintball a year before but it was full of ego trippers plus it worked out bloomin' costly if you like to go a bit trigger happy..... we bought a nasty terrible cheap 2/3 replica which was like a pea shooter eventually he talked me n missus int getting a ok-ish SRC M4 and I bought a B500A1 SRC is ok but don't get a B500A1 ffs - I scraped by at a local cqb site just.... WTF didn't I get into this much earlier when I still younger & fitter bought ICS42W to get me through until I got ukara'd got ukara'd - now I have a serious problem and a not so healthy bank balance I taken a m8 of his a couple times but his m8's are lazy bastids reckon he goes half the time on his own - last time I was too knackered to go as I was up late finishing my gun - which he decided he would look after it for me and I have been on my own a few times too - so we ain't joined at the hip no more So - just go for it, airsofters in general are some of the most easy going lot around yes their are the odd ar$ehole, players who don't have a clue, wanna be generals - usually they ain't quite as good as they think they are but most of us have an easy going attitude to playing with toy guns out in the woods I play for fun - its nice to win but I like to come away smiling about somebody making a fool of themselves usually that is me - but its the enjoyment I remember more than the score of my K/D ratio crap just get out there

You back from your break/hols then..... yup ebay is getting worse n worse - even genuine sellers like yourself also genuine private sellers are up against it against scammers You can't have private listings, you are limited against blocking bad bidders/buyers and the few limits you may impose eg: negative feedback not more than 2 strikes in last 6 months (in a word not much to stop time wasters n scammers etc...) How do the tossers get around this and bid/buy your genuine working stuff saying it is faulty/damaged/not as described etc.... easy create a NEW account without any negative or strikes on it - you can't block a zero bidder/buyer I had 2 muppets try their luck a year ago and just stopped selling coz of agro and ebay does f*ck all except invoices you their fees the seller alone has to defend tooth n nail his own integrity - long story but ebay is flawed in a number of ways for sellers and it is getting worse not better.... Ebay bought out Yahoo auctions ages ago and since then there is very little that comes close to the worlwide money making machine Hopefully decent sellers can continue to trade on, wording their stuff very carefully with all big disclaimers etc as ebay are blind as f*ck Hope so coz having decent sellers on there does make it so much easier to find and buy our airsoft stuff & other bits n bobs

You not got any tracking info ??? daft question but thought I'd ask the obvious most "couriers" have tracking - Parcel Pete / UK Mail etc... were always great when ever I've sent various stuff in the past perhaps a mod might be able to contact you and discuss/look into it a bit more (soz mod(s) adding more stuff on ya plate) hopefully if Royal Mail std parcels or something - hopefully it may turn up Monday or early next week but always best I have learned is to send stuff tracked whenever possible hope it sorts itself out - think we are a decent lot on here - well long standing ones (no offense to new members) but we have had the odd scammers selling junk or sending sweet FA from time to time

I'm still a humble f*ckwit noob breaking and trying to fix 'em but so much of what you say makes sense - I'm learning more $hit with every gun I break (except how not to break them) love the bit about parts SHOULD work but don't - yeah I'm finding that out too from time to time usually after nearly throwing the gun down the garden I make small progress which makes it worthwhile but to offer help is a cautious one especially when the owner might not describe the fault correctly in the first place and in other area's or pastimes/forums it often transpires that the problem isn't quite as first described and the possible solutions are totally different when you realise the actual real fault in the end (yeah those situations you just think I shouldn't have bothered to answer a call for help)

welcome sir.... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/ check ian's guide as you don't need to spend mega money perhaps hire or consider a decent starter from a decent shop avoid ANY site with " BB " in its name - the stuff they sell is often low power plinkers that don't last or perform well if used at a skirmish site on average a decent new gun will be £120 to £150 anything less is not gonna be what we might call decent starter gun trust me - myself and numerous others bought lower end stuff from BB places and regretted it read up a bit and ask away - welcome to the grown up toy gun club

it is do-able and could work if somebody was really really stuck...... BUT the main component with many things is common sense you can watch the best videos & even have a 2-way radio headset when learning to ride a bike but in the end you have to just get on the saddle and give it go - there is no safety net after removing stabilisers a simple picture says a thousand words if something is broken or worn badly often that picture may throw up alarm bells of something else caused that part to fail The main problem is both you and the other person being online at the same time yes they or you could take pics or short video even upload to youtube or somewhere to demonstrate problem There are loads of vids/pics already out there - some good & some not so good if the owner does a little research it is not rocket science but you can watch all the vids in the world but at some point we all have to remove them stabilisers and get our hands dirty so to speak....... The worst case scenario - they screw it up and learn from mistakes like many of us do everyday they can take a step back seek some clarification & help - perhaps then the pics/vid of their mistakes would be a good thing then try, try again - its just a gearbox and if it goes total pear shape a new box can be bought in most cases.... My own personal opinion is to start with half decent run of the mill v2 or v3 boxes - M4's AK's or G36's etc...... easy to find tutorials/info and cheap to replace if things really go pear shape and owner breaks it whilst fixing it By all means look into it - but owners should research stuff a little and above all ensure they have good old common sense eg: - never opened this before - open box in bag so bits don't explode everywhere losing springs etc..... take photo's of where this n that was before I dived in and now not got a clue where it all goes etc.... there is a guide or tips section that says all this and a lot lot more -most of it is there already it is up to gun owner if they can be bothered to read up a bit or expect spoonfeeding or just send it to a shop and pay

Soz being really silly now but reckon you would stand out with the SRC Gundam.... M4 & stand out ??? - best thing is probably off the peg and go nutz on your own bits making it your own (stfu scope - mega spray job - hopefully not balls it up etc.....) Or G36 with M4 magwell adapter ???? rof though snappy response and rof "kind of" go hand in hand to a degree but think I would hope for a 14-ish min rof maybe high teens or getting close to 20 to call it nice n snappy - well is my take on that Can't comment on either guns but think I wouldn't consider Ares personally but not got one but seen a few not so great reviews Get a gun YOU like - forget if quite a few have them - means they are popular they are common as muck when you don't own one make it your own - worry what you think not what others might think go with what you want/like as you are paying for it and you are gonna be using it at end of day you don't say if you are 18 & ukara'd or if you don't mind tweaking stuff but a couple of possibles...... http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152191494-SC-01-TAN-Replica.html don't like the golden tan mixture but tin of krylon and make it your own under £120 is worth a look http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-gc16-30th-anniversary-limited-edition-aeg-airsoft-rifle-black.html ford transit but consider other options like the black & tan mixture for a tenner more http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-gc16-mod0-30th-anniversary-limited-edition-aeg-airsoft-rifle-desert-shadow.html (hmm not sure about colour mix trying to emulate the MK18 scheme a bit but burst fet is on offer @ £10 on this one) or the Wasteland edition but to me is a bit much for extra paint job - its the gun that matters imho http://www.airsoftworld.net/catalogsearch/result/?q=WSTLND but wasteland or WSTLND is vcra so a different 2-toner I guess it really is hard to say or tell you what to buy - they are near enough the same toy guns - some a bit better than others but most of it is just cosmetic really - so have a look and go with a decent make of a model you alone like my guns don't stand out cosmetically or externally at all but I tend to be the one who stands out - normally one of the first in the dead zone

did say bank transaction but most is credit card online which unless I'm really mistaken is for 18 yes switch card for u18 but technically that is bank transaction - well I'd say so unless they have relapsed the credit card regulations which I'd be gobsmacked if they have but I have been wrong from time to time F*ck me - I'm trying to offer assistance n stuff and tbh I'm done on this..... I get enough of this at home with my kids trying to argue or justify this n that yes they may have better qualifications than this ol' git but jeez they still have so much to learn..... I am done on this - I gotta go to work anyway

Starting over again......... either contact LWA and get refund or pay for 2-tone or Zero One for free 2-tone Or just do your time and do 3 games etc... then you can get RIF I don't care if you are 17.99999 or 7.99999yrs old tbh coz it ain't me selling you the RIF or IF that is far as I go but this forum can not be seen to break rules or guidelines or tell you how to get around it I suppose some people buy 2-tone guns and the 2-tone "could" wear off or may have an accident/spillage but this forum can not be seen to openly assist people who do not meet the criteria it is watched by loads n loads of "guests" many may not be of the correct age and also this forum as well as this sport could come under fire if it was allowing this to take place That is about it - yes some of the regulations/rules/guidelines may not seem to make complete perfect sense in every paragraph/line but then there are loads of rules/regulations in life we all have to abide by - or at very least try to best advice is refund n wait - get skirmishing and you will be 18 & ukara'd before you know it then you can buy a nice gun and understand it all a bit better

I can just squeeze a 2200mah zippy compact 25c 7.4v in my ics 42w's front handguard (like a long cm carbine - except the 42w is fixed stock rear wired but looking at rewiring one to front & use a folding m4 stock) So I say it might just just squeeze into a ics m4 front wired BUT it is tight and might not fit exactly into another G&G carbine so please have a butcher's n make up a dummy battery thingy majig to check yourself no point buying a battery that don't fit in there i have ballsed up a couple of times and I'm supposed to be a little wiser - pahh still screwing up as I stumble through life