Sitting Duck

G&G CM Vs ICS Sportline or 2 very good plastic/polymer starter guns..... Fire rate out of box - ICS seems a bit faster imho Build quality - G&G imho win due to conventional hop, I think the G&G receivers are better than ICS (G&G 8mm bearing/bushing ICS pretty sure they are 7mm, G&G bronze bushings wear a bit quicker I feel) yes ICS split gearbox is good for spring change but often if gun breaks it all has to be stripped down could go on loads of fors/against so the 2 above it is neck n neck so to speak.... But deciding factor and why I feel G&G just beat ICS is down to choice of gun styles in the £120 to £150 range ICS just seem to be the same as G&G carbine M4a1 in the sportsline/starter range - often just loads of different stocks needing to go up above £150 to get some nicer looking models Where as G&G seem to offer a bit more choice with rails n stuff Watch out though on new revamped G&G's with new style CM receivers CM16 SR looks nice but has the start of their "module" stuff they was on about sounds good some of this plug in stuff until you realise you gotta use G&G spare parts coz it is bespoke and not TM compatible http://www.popularairsoft.com/news/gg-armament-cm16-sr-series-released the electronic trigger unit could cost a bit if she fails along with other "new" innovations like quick swap motor redesigned bb loading system with no tappet plate - hmmmmmm plug in module batteries and more electronic crap - not G&G's strong point in past Time will tell how the new CM stuff runs but I'm old skool - that is just my take with regular CM just beating ICS sportlines well for now - if newer CM fails then my money would be back on ICS for clever split gearbox but not ott that it costs loads to service/repair

ahhh ok - then the bottom one in your list like most have said as you have a crane stock & rear wired

in my book it will be fine - under 10v is nothing to worry about

what ics gun are you thinking of getting ?????? damn it - just beaten to it, but seriously do you need nunchuck twin stick or will a single stick/block battery go in there nunchuck's are for the crane stock's - some front wired guns can take a single block type if dimensions are observed I can get a cheapo 2200mah 7.4v lipo in ICS-42W front handguard and a jumbo battery in the fixed rear stock where it is wired to on 42w http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZIPPY-Compact-2200Mah-2s-7-4v-25c-35c-Lipo-Pack-UK-Seller-Fast-Dispatch-/131212457347

welcome but try ebay.... read this: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ real sound advice and all in good down to earth easy to get ya head round english all high end stuff can be bought as you replace the good starter stuff in there (all depends on your budget and how much you get into it but no point in going completely nutz from day one) best wishes & welcome once again

He can't make up his mind but only has £300 (I used to indecisive - but knowadays I'm not so sure) we all know as soon as you buy something, you think maybe .......... £300 is £300 - if he had a grand then go for all of them mofo ones he listed instead of cyma's but to say they are worse than his SRC - ouch that's harsh - lol edit - wow this must be a really rare post that I never mentioned G&G in damn it - I knew I couldn't supress it for too long....

trust me if it feels a little tight at first it will be digging right into you before half time have a look at some bolle stuff at your local screwfix or other places at least if they are not suitable you can easily return perhaps for another pair yeah some are a bit chunky but check the ratings and if needed fire a bb at them if they fit ok some are designed for people wearing glasses plus you can see reviews on how they stack up or fog up etc......

£300 ukara - sod it buy a load of 'em and always have a spare.... (story of my life) http://www.taiwangun.com/en/jg0448a-au-1g-jg?from=listing&campaign-id=19 http://www.taiwangun.com/en/cm-028a-tactical?from=listing&campaign-id=19 http://www.taiwangun.com/en/cm-060b-cm?from=listing&campaign-id=19 those 3 should get ya free shipping about £225 in our local non greek currency £75 on mags - sorted ask for free downgrade (hopefully they remember) as many are a bit hot out of box for our 330-350 sites oh and your G36 - probably just needs a tweak/service Gen 3 are better - the other Gen boxes are built like real $hite

Serious site in Dartford - Sandpit google up: "sandpit dartford airsoft" vids n stuff - no 2-tones allowed - runs on Sundays real serious airsoft - I've not been myself coz I just pi$$ about with my toy guns Tunnel site in Epsom - google "epsom tunnels airsoft" one word - DARK actually two words - F*CKING DARK gotta be experienced I would say - a bit full on but reckon you must go there there are others like my more cheap n cheerful one but not for the pro's Mall in Reading is a bit far from East London but in centre of Reading right by train station so it can be experienced and reached by train very easily google "the mall reading airsoft" yup Sandpit perhaps if you want a serious game maybe, but deffo tunnels and mall as they are 2 very different sites to normal woodland ones

hope you can bring in your stuff ok - if you have any membership of local club best bring it with you maybe somebody in legal area can help but 18+ to buy any aeg/airsoft weapon but not illegal for under 18 year old to own one so if you think that is confusing.... Even we don't always fully understand our airsoft laws/rules/regulations where abouts in London - North or South - give us a rough location and perhaps we can give you some local sites but unsure if you can bring your own stuff over due to our strict UKARA & VCRA laws I'm sure there are ways to get stuff into UK without smuggling it in in boot of car or baggage but unsure so I am not gonna advise coz I know next to jack $hit on this subject

9.6v nimah or 9.9v LiFe are around the max I would go to before needing a mosfet the zero one battery is a 3 stick crane - the middle stick can be a little fiddly to get in there but does go in, you need to probably have the stock back a click or two to fit it in there charger is ok - it is a smart charger meaning it won't keep charging or over charge the battery it stops charging once it is done - old types you have to calculate the charge time and keep checking it ain't too hot still need to keep an eye on ANY battery charging - never charge on bed/carpet but on a worktop normal common sense stuff if you are going to a full day skirmish you might get by with a 2200mah battery but depends on your gun & trigger happy etc.... many get two and change over at half time to save running out of juice halfway through afternoon newer option is lipo but all batteries will need owner to check dimensions thoroughly before ordering (lipo/life have different chargers to nimah's or you can get the more expensive "charge anything" mofo chargers)

I have said about both sides of the coin.... if we didn't have noobs it really can get boring talking about finer details of loadouts or a few about ultra high end guns than most will only dream of But it can get tedious repeating very very similar answers to very very similar questions again & again Yes every noob question can be answered with G&G it seems or ffs no to 11.1v on a JBBG you should not have bought or uhm no I don't think a DSG 60rps+ is really gonna happen as your first build This place is really a great balance and quite tolerant usually for newcomers (honestly there are a few other places out there that seems like they got their heads so far up their ar$es they never see the light of day) but catch me on a bad day and I can be a little stroppy - even though I still think of myself as a noob By all means ask questions - gets really boring without discussions - its a forum not an art gallery or book club but just have a little insight into research - heck even if you include a link or two to possible things you are considering.... Then it don't look like you - I say you but not all directed at you.... Then it don't look like the poster is a lazy f*cker who expects to be spoonfed and quite often we are left wondering was it just a tyre kicker (or bb kicker just dreaming about stuff they will never build or own or worse never even read or say fanx for replies) We got peeps on here at both ends of the spectrum - serious players and pratss like me expensive mofo guns or cheapo starters that I like to break n fix n break etc....... Usually without the growling and barking - but like I said we all can get a bit grumpy - well I can from time to time be noob by all means, but don't be a nob and not do some of your research - think that is what many were meaning (no offense to any of us out there)

welcome sir.... anybody that knows about searching is very very welcome there's loads of info - some bull$hit too though not ALL THE BULL$HIT is by me read up a bit just proves you are willing to learn - we are all still learning btw play fair, take ya hits, don't get too stressed out there it is just big kids playing with better toys guns really welcome to our big kids playground

mp5k - Galaxy as I only have cheapo guns anyway mp5k's use v3 with a weird adapter bolted on bottom of v3 and a long motor like used on v2's then you got the bigger mp5's with v2's and long motors - jeeeeez it gets confusing

welcome & http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/

Agreed - just bought a bigger ladle coz I'm guilty of that Even with spoon feeding - end of the day, they gotta one day take the stabilisers off yup they may fail n balls it up - but who didn't at first ??? And still I learn more n more n more each time I get my hands dirty..... Even to a point that I am constantly and deliberately taking the pi$$ pushing a box I just did Searching though does require a little bit of common sense - alas this can't be bought off shelf but I have read n read n read n still reading more crap on various forums/posts gathering more info plus I am a f*cking nosey bastid too....... All I will say or ask of newcomers - have a read up on various forums here is a good place that pops up in google and airsoftsociety is a goldmine of stuff - learnt loads from that place To any potential question posts - think it through or see if it has been asked before and ffs stop thinking I am gonna get a gun that shoots 40rps+ @ 450fps - yeah dsg dmr from jbbg (i just bought the last of dem sick best gun evaahhhh's)

Tough one and I can't really say as I don't own the cyma mp5 if you was a lefty then mp5/G36's have ambidextrous select switches first gun wise I'd say the GC16 30th has the edge for being such great value yes boring M4 everybody has a friggin' G&G M4 but they are a great gun to start off with

Ahhhh - yet another one of them mofo things to check..... maybe drop the spring guide if spring compression space is limited just to be on safe side and go with a non-bearing guide (you got bearing welded onto piston now so maybe ease up on extra bearings compressing spring) I'm signing off as I don't know jack - well deffo mega FA on WE Scar stuff

ahh - then you can't SS - lol now you explained the bespoke or shorter spring then ok I see then it would be stronger Never quite understood these slightly special boxes with shorter springs like on 21's or arx160 etc... If it has 16 teeth piston n sector........ anyway if she is say 15-20 over then if the stock spring guide wasn't bearing then that might get you back to 350 ??? could work maybe - if later on fpd drops in 6 months - pop bearing one back in there only way to know for sure is try it all in there with m100 - but yeah m100 would deffo be a bit tougher compared to 260fps (if it was down to spring mainly) soz for waffle n all that but just saying a few ideas before you reach for hacksaw/dremmel (you could fit spring ar$e about face to lose fps but as I said techy's don't advise it due to increased starting tension)

don't cut any coils - yet besides coil cutting is a bit of a bodge or a last resort the tighter coils - where they are closer spaced together goes at back/spring guide designed this way as slightly lighter tension when starting to compress spring on semi often you may find the coils tighten in middle and at back of spring if they are close together at front you got it ar$e about face if you install a spring incorrectly you will lose final tension/fps and it is said it makes more work from standstill/semi think I noticed about a 20fps drop when I fitted an irregular spring back to front it could be wrongly labelled m100 but shs springs are deffo a bit generous I found recently plus wire used is thicker than stock spring wire had a m125 (- didn't think they did 5 increments) and thought I would fully compress it for 12 hrs to lose tension a smidge yeah - still seemed way stronger than a stock m120 spring I ended using for a short stroke project to really know for sure is by chucking it in and seeing and then you would need a chrono - no real other way if you have fitted a spring guide over a stock spring guide then that should push you back up to any loss from aoe better seals and bearing on piston adds another 5mm compression on spring - same as bearing spring guide So unless your gun was well n truly low you should be about 5 to 10% up on old figure as long as nozzle is sealing good in the hop You could try the m100+ spring but reckon only if you got chrono to hand if you suspect it is bloomin' strong mofo couple of bursts will soon show if she is over or not if over you could remove a tooth - shortstroke but tbh I doubt if your gun is gonna run a risk of PE unless 11.1v way up the pro's n con's, see if you can remember what she was shooting at previously and maybe if she was low then try m100+ Short stroking isn't that tricky - each tooth will reduce final fps by about 6% or multiply fps by 0.94 & repeat however not much room for SS on longer barrels like full AK's @ 455mm etc.... but room for a couple on 400 & below barrels doubt if you need to get into this crap just yet - put her back as an improved slightly upgraded/stock box and see how she goes

Even with loads of Fairy Power Spray soaked overnight or even 48hrs removing paint is time consuming Just done a Raider that took a fair amount of scrubbing n soaking n scrubbing n soaking etc..... Crane stock is proving to be a pain but I probably won't bother going ultra mad on it coz intend to replace it anyway Yes you could get a 2-tone and in theory remove it once ukara'd/defense buying a cheap 2-tone starter like a Raider or Carbine isn't a totally unwise move as 3 x rentals will be looking at aprox £25 x 3 and even if you keep the starter as spare it ain't a bad thing.... or sell it on for half price and still ain't lost money...... depends on site & their rental guns - some are a bit worn but still work great like my local G36's but others I have heard are really well abused and on their last legs compare that against buying a new gun for about £125 (plus battery charger etc....) tough call really if to just rent for a little while or take the plunge on a "everybody has these ffs" CM16

This stuff happens quite a bit to piston bearing heads as Lozart said used Loctite thread sealant/glue or drop the bearing...... some boxes like G&G's D-Boys have seen 5mm plastic spacers in there instead is lighter and tensions the spring a smidge a bit more like the bearings but less likely to come undone - it is something to do with bearing race 5mm thick by 20mm diameter or 10mm thick by 20mm diameter - but only for use on short stroked pistons (as spring may hit its compression limit on full stroke setups) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pack-M6-6-3-mm-Inside-D-Nylon-Plastic-Spacers-Various-Sizes-and-Lengths-/231063250182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item35cc716506 these have a M6 hole in them and need to be widened a little to accept the bolt/bearing sleeve but that is what the CM16's have in them and found same setup in the dboys 416 even though it was said to have bearing piston head I actually now go without bearings on piston to save weight and as long as a bearing spring guide is fitted the spring can still untwist It happened to me also once even though I tightened it like f*ck and happen also on a gun I bought s/hand Threadlock MUST be used on piston bearing heads or imho it will happen - not if - it will happen at some point blue is medium strength and should be ok red is high strength and may be a lot harder to undo - heck might need cutting piston head off if piston strips at some point pretty sure the bolt in there is M3 thread but unsure of exact length - could be about 12mm-ish but best measure to be sure if you need to get a replacement one M3's are used in most instances for gearbox case bolts, pistol grips on v2 boxes, motor frame/cages on v3's & piston heads bolts if not self tapping ones etc....

it is Active Braking Mosfet but a highly respected one or non-active braking mosfet: http://www.airsoftworld.net/new-2014-burst-wizard-king-kong-super-2-mosfet.html they can be a bit of a headache to get your head around at first but very clever bells n whistles Both are fitted externally, so need a little room for instalation but can easily be removed for a basic mosfet other more expensive mosfets like ACSU or others are more expensive and need to be installed internally in box also in the case of ACSU's etc they are bespoke to a particular type of gearbox and can be more fiddly to fit inside "some" boxes than others yeah try fitting a v3 acsu into a v2 box or vice versa or a L85 P90 box So I don't think there is one be all n end all fet solutuion for everybody or every gun out there you just gotta decide yourself what you want, the room for install and how much you can afford on bells n whistles