Sitting Duck

I have said about both sides of the coin.... if we didn't have noobs it really can get boring talking about finer details of loadouts or a few about ultra high end guns than most will only dream of But it can get tedious repeating very very similar answers to very very similar questions again & again Yes every noob question can be answered with G&G it seems or ffs no to 11.1v on a JBBG you should not have bought or uhm no I don't think a DSG 60rps+ is really gonna happen as your first build This place is really a great balance and quite tolerant usually for newcomers (honestly there are a few other places out there that seems like they got their heads so far up their ar$es they never see the light of day) but catch me on a bad day and I can be a little stroppy - even though I still think of myself as a noob By all means ask questions - gets really boring without discussions - its a forum not an art gallery or book club but just have a little insight into research - heck even if you include a link or two to possible things you are considering.... Then it don't look like you - I say you but not all directed at you.... Then it don't look like the poster is a lazy f*cker who expects to be spoonfed and quite often we are left wondering was it just a tyre kicker (or bb kicker just dreaming about stuff they will never build or own or worse never even read or say fanx for replies) We got peeps on here at both ends of the spectrum - serious players and pratss like me expensive mofo guns or cheapo starters that I like to break n fix n break etc....... Usually without the growling and barking - but like I said we all can get a bit grumpy - well I can from time to time be noob by all means, but don't be a nob and not do some of your research - think that is what many were meaning (no offense to any of us out there)

welcome sir.... anybody that knows about searching is very very welcome there's loads of info - some bull$hit too though not ALL THE BULL$HIT is by me read up a bit just proves you are willing to learn - we are all still learning btw play fair, take ya hits, don't get too stressed out there it is just big kids playing with better toys guns really welcome to our big kids playground

mp5k - Galaxy as I only have cheapo guns anyway mp5k's use v3 with a weird adapter bolted on bottom of v3 and a long motor like used on v2's then you got the bigger mp5's with v2's and long motors - jeeeeez it gets confusing

welcome & http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/

Agreed - just bought a bigger ladle coz I'm guilty of that Even with spoon feeding - end of the day, they gotta one day take the stabilisers off yup they may fail n balls it up - but who didn't at first ??? And still I learn more n more n more each time I get my hands dirty..... Even to a point that I am constantly and deliberately taking the pi$$ pushing a box I just did Searching though does require a little bit of common sense - alas this can't be bought off shelf but I have read n read n read n still reading more crap on various forums/posts gathering more info plus I am a f*cking nosey bastid too....... All I will say or ask of newcomers - have a read up on various forums here is a good place that pops up in google and airsoftsociety is a goldmine of stuff - learnt loads from that place To any potential question posts - think it through or see if it has been asked before and ffs stop thinking I am gonna get a gun that shoots 40rps+ @ 450fps - yeah dsg dmr from jbbg (i just bought the last of dem sick best gun evaahhhh's)

Tough one and I can't really say as I don't own the cyma mp5 if you was a lefty then mp5/G36's have ambidextrous select switches first gun wise I'd say the GC16 30th has the edge for being such great value yes boring M4 everybody has a friggin' G&G M4 but they are a great gun to start off with

Ahhhh - yet another one of them mofo things to check..... maybe drop the spring guide if spring compression space is limited just to be on safe side and go with a non-bearing guide (you got bearing welded onto piston now so maybe ease up on extra bearings compressing spring) I'm signing off as I don't know jack - well deffo mega FA on WE Scar stuff

ahh - then you can't SS - lol now you explained the bespoke or shorter spring then ok I see then it would be stronger Never quite understood these slightly special boxes with shorter springs like on 21's or arx160 etc... If it has 16 teeth piston n sector........ anyway if she is say 15-20 over then if the stock spring guide wasn't bearing then that might get you back to 350 ??? could work maybe - if later on fpd drops in 6 months - pop bearing one back in there only way to know for sure is try it all in there with m100 - but yeah m100 would deffo be a bit tougher compared to 260fps (if it was down to spring mainly) soz for waffle n all that but just saying a few ideas before you reach for hacksaw/dremmel (you could fit spring ar$e about face to lose fps but as I said techy's don't advise it due to increased starting tension)

don't cut any coils - yet besides coil cutting is a bit of a bodge or a last resort the tighter coils - where they are closer spaced together goes at back/spring guide designed this way as slightly lighter tension when starting to compress spring on semi often you may find the coils tighten in middle and at back of spring if they are close together at front you got it ar$e about face if you install a spring incorrectly you will lose final tension/fps and it is said it makes more work from standstill/semi think I noticed about a 20fps drop when I fitted an irregular spring back to front it could be wrongly labelled m100 but shs springs are deffo a bit generous I found recently plus wire used is thicker than stock spring wire had a m125 (- didn't think they did 5 increments) and thought I would fully compress it for 12 hrs to lose tension a smidge yeah - still seemed way stronger than a stock m120 spring I ended using for a short stroke project to really know for sure is by chucking it in and seeing and then you would need a chrono - no real other way if you have fitted a spring guide over a stock spring guide then that should push you back up to any loss from aoe better seals and bearing on piston adds another 5mm compression on spring - same as bearing spring guide So unless your gun was well n truly low you should be about 5 to 10% up on old figure as long as nozzle is sealing good in the hop You could try the m100+ spring but reckon only if you got chrono to hand if you suspect it is bloomin' strong mofo couple of bursts will soon show if she is over or not if over you could remove a tooth - shortstroke but tbh I doubt if your gun is gonna run a risk of PE unless 11.1v way up the pro's n con's, see if you can remember what she was shooting at previously and maybe if she was low then try m100+ Short stroking isn't that tricky - each tooth will reduce final fps by about 6% or multiply fps by 0.94 & repeat however not much room for SS on longer barrels like full AK's @ 455mm etc.... but room for a couple on 400 & below barrels doubt if you need to get into this crap just yet - put her back as an improved slightly upgraded/stock box and see how she goes

Even with loads of Fairy Power Spray soaked overnight or even 48hrs removing paint is time consuming Just done a Raider that took a fair amount of scrubbing n soaking n scrubbing n soaking etc..... Crane stock is proving to be a pain but I probably won't bother going ultra mad on it coz intend to replace it anyway Yes you could get a 2-tone and in theory remove it once ukara'd/defense buying a cheap 2-tone starter like a Raider or Carbine isn't a totally unwise move as 3 x rentals will be looking at aprox £25 x 3 and even if you keep the starter as spare it ain't a bad thing.... or sell it on for half price and still ain't lost money...... depends on site & their rental guns - some are a bit worn but still work great like my local G36's but others I have heard are really well abused and on their last legs compare that against buying a new gun for about £125 (plus battery charger etc....) tough call really if to just rent for a little while or take the plunge on a "everybody has these ffs" CM16

This stuff happens quite a bit to piston bearing heads as Lozart said used Loctite thread sealant/glue or drop the bearing...... some boxes like G&G's D-Boys have seen 5mm plastic spacers in there instead is lighter and tensions the spring a smidge a bit more like the bearings but less likely to come undone - it is something to do with bearing race 5mm thick by 20mm diameter or 10mm thick by 20mm diameter - but only for use on short stroked pistons (as spring may hit its compression limit on full stroke setups) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pack-M6-6-3-mm-Inside-D-Nylon-Plastic-Spacers-Various-Sizes-and-Lengths-/231063250182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item35cc716506 these have a M6 hole in them and need to be widened a little to accept the bolt/bearing sleeve but that is what the CM16's have in them and found same setup in the dboys 416 even though it was said to have bearing piston head I actually now go without bearings on piston to save weight and as long as a bearing spring guide is fitted the spring can still untwist It happened to me also once even though I tightened it like f*ck and happen also on a gun I bought s/hand Threadlock MUST be used on piston bearing heads or imho it will happen - not if - it will happen at some point blue is medium strength and should be ok red is high strength and may be a lot harder to undo - heck might need cutting piston head off if piston strips at some point pretty sure the bolt in there is M3 thread but unsure of exact length - could be about 12mm-ish but best measure to be sure if you need to get a replacement one M3's are used in most instances for gearbox case bolts, pistol grips on v2 boxes, motor frame/cages on v3's & piston heads bolts if not self tapping ones etc....

it is Active Braking Mosfet but a highly respected one or non-active braking mosfet: http://www.airsoftworld.net/new-2014-burst-wizard-king-kong-super-2-mosfet.html they can be a bit of a headache to get your head around at first but very clever bells n whistles Both are fitted externally, so need a little room for instalation but can easily be removed for a basic mosfet other more expensive mosfets like ACSU or others are more expensive and need to be installed internally in box also in the case of ACSU's etc they are bespoke to a particular type of gearbox and can be more fiddly to fit inside "some" boxes than others yeah try fitting a v3 acsu into a v2 box or vice versa or a L85 P90 box So I don't think there is one be all n end all fet solutuion for everybody or every gun out there you just gotta decide yourself what you want, the room for install and how much you can afford on bells n whistles

aye - oven cleaner Fairy Power is best Mr Muscle at a push but only if its on offer - otherwise save ya cash & keep searching for the Fairies

Massive guess@ 7 to 7.5 inch possible suggestion on say a 275 to 300 inner barrel with say a 11.5 outer..... if that G&G outer is usual 3 piece one with "tube" in middle hack off the front sight - I mean really dremmel that mofo off so the last piece fits inside ris then with the middle TUBE @ say 5 inches reduce that by say 3 or 4 inches as required custom bespoke outer barrel for next to nothing Or if you are really clever and wanna play safe - measure the dimensions of TUBE buy a 2 or 3 inch piece off fleabay and keep original TUBE as it for spare part obviously this won't work out that well if you got the longer barrel model as flashhider/thread would be 4-5 inches in front of sight but if you got a 275-300 barrel G&G this could be an easy quick cheap option to look into AT YOUR OWN RISK - IT IS JUST ME MAKING A POSSIBLE SUGGESTION (your gun is at risk if you don't keep up common sense checks or any other mods performed upon it) Terms and conditions apply- see www.dontblameus.com for more details

wouldn't lay the whole gun in any chemicals - might chew rubber bucking and clean off grease where needed in gearbox major pain in the ar$e even an easy to strip paint job as often remove all painted pieces and then chuck in bath (plastic ice cram tub - missus hates my toys but she prefers her own toys at bath time like a buzzing yellow rubber ducky)

Asda, Wilkinsons, maybe Morrisons & Sainsbury's Asda are cheapest @ £2:98 normal rrp is £3:50 Last Fairy Power Spray I got in Tesco's Extra super store last week was hidden away though They had Mr Muscle oven cleaner half price @ £1:75 but I knew it ain't quite as good Hit it with Mr Muscle first for a few hours soak - loosened it up a bit but not brilliant Then went nutz & mega ott on a mission to get that thick as f*ck Zero One Green crap off Jeeez - even inside the ris rails they f*cking painted and reckon is was more than just one quick coat I reckon at least two - maybe 3 quick coats was applied in quick succession coz it was one mofo to get back to black Plus many have said how Z1's 2-toning felt tacky out of box....... Finally got it to where this ultra fussy mofo is happy with it 99.9% removed - minor specks and I mean very very tiny minor specks but most are on the underside rail so I'll live with that best advice - get ice cream carton, spray it everywhere nice n foamy, leave it for few hours 2 toothbrushes - normal and a mini kids toothbrush for nooks n crannies.... wear cheapo rubber gloves - yeah I know we are men and f*ck all that crap but palms of your hands do start to flake a bit after a while - oooh heck If it is like Z1 paint job - you won't get it off real quick - reckon with a foamy covering - scrape foamy covering leave to soak - scrape, foamy covering leave overnight - scrape more foamy crap etc...... Yeah reckon that is best part of a weekend if you are ultra fussy like me yes it is fine to leave overnight 24hrs - think mine was about 36hrs soaking in total (actually forgot about it) - still got all the white number digits on rails maybe a slight wear of the satin black finish - but then that could be from my mental akimbo toothbrush attacks on the bitch still got crane stock to de-green but most likely fit the usual stubby fixed M4 stock in there as per usual Yeah wot a bollock ache - but it is do-able, not quite as easy as some others might be - poxy Z1 Raider

I'm a pratt who sucks at airsoft therefore I am often one that will throw myself up or attract their attention whilst my team assault (well that is my pathetic excuse) Kill - Death bollox ??? Only Kill I worry about is if my team decide I must be on the enemy side Only Death I worry about is if my gun will last the day As long as I don't mess up and cost my team the game - so what if peeps take the general skirmish sites too seriously then they should put down the toy gun and get out more If people are really worried about K-D running around with toy guns..... There is no MOAB in airsoft - well unless PT247 is on your team

indeed the whole list of guides is in this section.... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/

https://www.swindonairsoft.co.uk/ might be able to help but I have no experience with them could be motor angle rather than shimming that caused screeching previously now motor spins but no gun fires - so could be gear knackered or something.... but all of us guessing and saying this n that is little real use as we haven't got it in front of us won't hurt to get a second opnion

sounds like fuse is current issue so do a quick process of elimination test..... check fuse with a torch/bulb circuit or a test screw driver multi meter continuaty thingy majig is gearbox locked - remove motor frame a smidge so motor isn't engaging box/gears pull trigger motor spins or not no spin fuse ok then trigger contacts could be burnt out so connect battery or some psu to motor etc..... etc..... etc....... - basic trial error stuff to narrow down present issue It may be a blown fuse due to increased strain on motor if wound in too far but might be a locked box - hard for anybody to say 101% exactly as we don't have gun in front of us but a few basic checks will narrow it down a bit and once that is done it will be easier to at least suggest possible solutions to original issue or cause of dead gun if you still can't determine if fuse is blown or not..... You could but I am not recommending anybody does this or at least not without removing motor from gun.... you could wrap some silver foil around the glass fuse or jam in a bit of foil to short a blade fuse BUT FFS DO NOT DO THIS WITH MOTOR IN BOX - ONLY DO THIS WITH MOTOR REMOVED SERIOUSLY DON'T F*CK ABOUT WITH 11.1v LIPO's & BITS OF SILVER FOIL SHORTING OUT ETC...... I am only suggesting this to somebody who has an A level in common sense as an absolute last resort fall back test and I mean TEST with motor out with a split second to see if motor turns on its own I'm making this as absolutely clear as possible it is a quick last ditch BODGE TEST that should only ever be used for split second If anybody blows their gun or battery or themselves up I am not responsible - they do this at THEIR own stupid risk I have done stuff like this, & I'm sure many have but we kind of know what we are doing in a basic last resort 1 sec test as well as we know we are being possible dickheads but we use extreme caution & common sense Honestly a meter or test screwdriver is much quicker, easier and above all much safer a 7.4v lipo battery if shorts out can really pack a hell of a punch arcing like f*ck I shorted a lipo once even though I was fitting deans one at a time and I $hit myself with the vivid arcing and zaps that followed On 11.1v it is very f*cking dangerous so I strongly advise to anybody is don't bodge stuff - full stop no really don't think it will be ok - it is f*cking dangerous even if you really think you know what you are doing

Exactly all the above In fact try to set motor height on lower 7.4v if possible and then retest on 11.1v Why - because screeching is much more noticeable on lower speeds than on very high speeds sounds bollox - but it is true the pitch/tone is deffo easier to hear on say 20rps than 30rps and a gun might not sound that bad on 11.1v but sounds worse on 7.4v There's a couple of vids on youtube about this and it is true - the screech is more noticeable on lower rps This might be due to lower tone/pitch of screech over the motor whine instead of higher pitch screech and whine of motor sounding similar dunno exact reason but deffo more noticeable I have found on lower rps also v3's you have the option to check motor frame/angle get motor running quietish then if still not happy loosen motor frame and see if adjusting the frame you may get the motor angled more true in line with bevel that slight twist or shift may make reduce any screech even further but this motor adjustment should be done with a bit of care & common sense noting any results good or bad plus people should not need to keep pi$$balling about with it too much either or keep winding motor inwards that will just force bevel tight against bushing/bearing generating more heat n wear etc.....

They are all CM16's really - just with different tarted up front ends CM18 is a CM16 like the Carbine Raider FireHawk GC16 or 26 etc...... To me the CM18 is stretched FireHawk front end without the amplifier - even has the same flip sights as FH but in contrasting colours then they add a bit of tan/black mix which makes it stand out a bit The ris ladder covers can be removed, the contrasting pistol grip - well when your out shooting wtf is gonna notice the contrasting crane stock - replace with a black crane or me have used a black fixed stubby stock on there other option is a Raider or GC16 30th the CQB or the BOT 300 is getting over £150 for a polymer gun MK18's are nice coz of the contrasting look out of box failing that get the metal GC16 and then later on consider changing the front end/barrel to your choice

KIllflash - just looks the nutz as long as it can take a bb that is main thing but I ain't one for show or looks malarky but I gotta say killflash don't matter if eotech has a dead battery - it just looks the nutz and you can get them quite cheap from Taiwangun I think I bought mine from