Sitting Duck

Airfet - mosfet but I do hope it ain't an Active Braking one coz they add a bit more strain to motor when you release trigger the polarity is reversed stopping the motor quick to stop overspin however this would only come into effect when releasing trigger - then a bit more load is placed on motor not a massive amount but still a bit more load/heat "can" be generated jury is still out on if they are good or bad but I don't use/have any AB fet myself but others use them on here no problem I'm gonna go out on limb and hope if/when that was fitted the wire was upgraded also and thus there should be very very few points of resistance So if all the above is done then depending on gun setup it could be a short taking place or a great load from bad shimming/motor height causing stuff to heat up if still blowing a 30amp fuse when fitted I would get into contact with the previous owner first and at very least get him to explain exactly what was fitted and how as you are maybe a little unsure. There could be a short or strain taking place for example and if you don't know exactly how sound the shimming/wiring is the last thing I would say is bypass the fuse how warm is the wiring getting - silly question coz your own definition is gonna be different to my own definition So it is gonna be hard if not impossible for me or anyone to say this or that will help/cure it and unless you know wire/shim is sound then ffs don't think of bypassing fuse at all 11.1v lipo 25c+ is f*cking beefy $hit - trust me I've seen a 7.4v arc and that was some mofo sparky crap this ain't 5v 500mah usb lead - even so just look at some them faulty usb charger fires out there Not wishing to scare monger you but seriously get in contact with the chap or drop to 7.4v perhaps don't ffs take chances - quite likely it will need to be fully checked out by somebody if she keeps happening The blowing on full auto to me seems like something ain't right or up to the job - and bigger beefier fuses or worse remove/bypass the fuse is not the way to go - not until it has been fully and completely checked out

everything in life comes down to Airplane my drinking problem.... and when everything is going ultra pear shape at work/life etc.... Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit smoking/drinking/sniffing glue in the offical top 5 of funniest films - surely it should in the top 3 ? (stop calling me Shirley)

Ahhhhh - yeah she fire quick on that mofo 30amp blade fuse but she still might blow tbh She should really have a mosfet on there - if she ain't bet them trigger contacts are sparking n arcing a bit you could have resistance from carbon building up another thing to check is the motor contacts are snug but be careful they don't break off at the right angle bend onto motor - they can be like little fuses themselves and can weaken & blow/snap all these joins fuses connectors are weak spots of resistance that can add to the fuse blowing some remove fuse as itself is yet another resistance point in high stress/speed/fps guns.... BUT I AM NOT RECOMENDING YOU DO THIS AT ALL !!!!!! it is there for a reason and it could very well be blowing for a good and valid reason - especially taking the pi$$ on 11.1v without mosfet there could be a slight possible short in there so I deffo do not advise removing fuse at all and 30amp is usually the most fitted, I will not say go to 40amp without getting wiring/motor checked and perhaps thicker wire and mosfet installed Jeez I use mega thick wire - a bit thicker than 16awg slicone wire and still it warms up a little when going nutz

buy lipo's if possible - you could get cheap block type 7.4v's and a cheap charger they are better than old skool batteries - most have switched over to lipo's on here they ain't much different to old skool in normal guns but are more efficient and eventually old skool nimahs will hold you back you can buy old skool nimahs if you like or find a good deal but personally don't bother unless they are dirt cheap price Lipo 7.4v all the way - is like old box type TV's vs LCD HD TV's

Try a 30 amp blade but no more normally all the crap heats up more on semi when you are spamming single shots loads (its one of the basic tests to see if a mosfet can take the strain of semi spamming - 120 semi shots in 1 minute) yeah bit weird it doing it on full auto, but them ICS motors do run faster than G&G's but I have had that and think a ICS by Lord Metile burnt out under warranty on him so they might have thinner wires in gun or in the armeture of motor winding that could heat up some motors have blown in the windings on the motor my guess is thinner wire used to allow for more windings but this might blow or heat up more this is pure duck theory bollox so don't pay too much attention to to me - nobody else does what volts or battery are you using 9.6v nimah or 11.1v lipo ??? is it still under warranty or you been messing with it ??? could be a dodgy bit of wiring or motor on its way out or some strain on box but would lock on semi I would of thought once it is running the load isn't so great keeping it firing rather than fire - stop - fire - stop like spamming on semi

not at epsom for sure.... spent ages getting my red - a lot places deffo don't like green lasers spent ages getting my red laser bang on but got told NO @ Epsom Tunnels they said they used to allow red but recently - last year just said no to all lasers tbh I think more n more places have just said no full stop whatever colour so no chance of damage if blinded by one

hmmmmmm - it is a close match between a raider from Z1 painted free and £10 delivery = £133 or GC16 30th painted + delivery for £168 - it is still £35 more than the Raider..... But if you can afford it think most on here would say go for GC16 then source batteries as cheap as possible coz "airsoft" batteries cost a bit In fact the GC16 is front wired and has 3 mini rails to mount on it so it ain't rail-less like carbine and I'm sure you can get slightly cheaper block batteries up the front where as on Raider you need twin stick or single stick nunchuk batteries in the crane stock these can be slightly more than the block/brick type batteries used on others (yes the GC16 can use crane/nunchuck/twin stick batteries but some moderate block types should fit in there too) so maybe yeah sod it - GC16 if you can afford it but don't get swept along too much buying loads of stuff if money is tight YOU WON'T GET BATTERY/CHARGER WITH ANY G&G - so be careful before jumping in and buying loads of stuff if anything maybe a pack of BAW blue 0.20gms bb's but there is still lots of stuff - well a few bits you will need if getting into it like eye protection - no crap - if you go skirmishing naked - very brave/stupid - at least have some decent eye pro read ian's guide first just before you take the plunge - I'll happily answer all your questions but you gotta realise just buying a gun is only half the initial investment when adding clobber/eye pro/mags/battery(s) charger/boots etc... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/

based on the above info.... I don't feel so guilty then not regulary supporting my local site as often as I first thought i should still feel lazy but wtf I have no stamina as well as no guilt now

nope you won't find it better anywhere lese and if from airsoftworld... nobody does that unique snakeskin look either if/when you get ukara you can buy stuff cheaper abroad but those places don't do G&G cheap Even in US where everything is bigger better cheaper they don't have screaming deals on G&G Think it is like Apple Ipod/phone etc.... - you can't get these really dirt cheap coz they just don't do mega bulk discounts Cyma's JG and others - yeah mega cheap offers but not seen any cheap better G&G deals than what we get in UK Also most other places have sold out of the 30th's GC16 & G26's a while back so I really really doubt if you can get these in many places Though Z1 2-tone for free, there shipping is bit more expensive than others like AirsoftWorld & Land Warrior Airsoft so it ain't that steep it is a nice metal mofo m4 that will do you proud out there in my book without vivid white CM on the side telling eveybody you have a Combat Machine (so f*cking what I say - my first car was Ford - big deal) soz - good gun to get started with - well them G&G's are all good decent guns imho whatever you run with

Be interesting to know but reckon all sites may have slightly different guidelines Thought it was some thing like 3 games in 2 months to qualify and something like a game every 2 to 3 months I might have heard coz some people working overseas or others let it lapse and had to get ukara again TBH - think it is all down to club/site/retailer as what they themselves deem regular airsoft player I know I need to play more - think it was getting to nearly 3 months over winter I hadn't played and been a month or more since my last game - lazy sod deffo next Saturday coz I got some guns to break

buy that kit I just edited if you ain't sure you will have hex/allen key and also torx - god damn torx bits so if that driver is long enough - which it should be unless you are really really unlucky to need an extension it should do proud for almost any work on your gun an extension is probably a couple of quid or might have a small extension from another kit/tool box but reckon it "might" just about be long enough as the driver seems a longer than the one in my set (alas that one atm just doesn't quite fit but wtf I'm ordering a set anyway)

if it ain't philips it must be an allen key or torx....... the bolt thread size should be M5 thread that goes into the spring guide of gearbox so I am gonna guess 4mm allen key might be required Not saying for absolute deffo this will work but cheap if you are gonna do any work... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rolson-28429-51pc-Screwdriver-Bit-Set-Handy-Tool-Kit-Set-Diy-Work-LOW-PRICE-/231521944023?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35e7c881d7 HOWEVER - depending on how far down the bolt is the screwdriver may not quite reach without an extension as some buffer tubes mount very close to rear of receiver and others a little closer to stock there are at least two positions in various buffer tubes and the above screw/hex/torx kit may or may not quite reach on its own Still for a fiver delivered it could be worth a look - heck I might get one as I keep losing some bits in my tools

you do realise you are leaving yourself wide open for Airplane Johnny quotes...... I can make hat or a broach or a Pterodactyl..........

I'm not ultra fussy on pin point long range accuracy I tend to have a few sounding targets up my garden..... old metal dustbin - for when I can't hit a barn door @ aprox 65ft old 4pt plastic milk bottle near the bin I think maybe at 70ft I got a tall aerosol can to go for once I think its set up well you can tell by the sounds if you are hitting your targets rather than keep walking back n forth to inspect shots/groupings the deep TANG of dustbin, the THUD of 4pt & the TING of the aerosol can - if I can hit that I'm doing ok in my book (Garden is a awash with funny white wildlife dropping I tell my other half - think I'm going for a gravel path up the back of garden - must use bios)

NO it looks cool and sexy but unless you do cqb I would advise Raider Short I'll explain why as I got or had most budget G&G's...... FireHawk has a battery in its stock tube - $hit battery options and still fiddly to install a 7.4 thin lipo you will be changing battery a bit more and stock has to be removed completely each time.... very short barrel - 110mm ok for short medium fights but really not great for medium & longer fights fps seems to be lower on very shorter barrels so I presume they stuck in a slightly slightly higher spring all the same they then changed the normal FireHawk Gears from regular 18:1 to around 22~23:1 This means the std FireHawk fires slower rate of fire than the other Combat Machines out of box yes you can use higher voltage battery but again where battery is located in stock tube you are screwed a bit FireHawk is loud - sounds good but gets on your nerves all day especially in echoey buildings/tunnels (also gets on ya team nerves but also good when you signal the start of advance - its distinctive n loud) it is more expensive @ £140 and ffs don't get the crappy HC05 DSG version coz that ain't got semi only full auto @ £155 my personal favourites would be either CM18 but has crappy midcap supplied - pure junk over the G&G high caps on other guns or Full Metal GC16 30th edition at Airsoftworld for £150 - not free 2-tone but very sexy snakeskin 2-tone service The CM18 is nice in tan/black but if getting it 2-toned you would ruin it so if not ukara'd perhaps forget CM18 That is just my take on it all - Raider is best cheap budget starter option @ £123 free 2-tone from Zero One GC16 30th - imho better than the G26 30th @ £150 plus 2-tone fee if req CM18 looks nice but only if ukara'd tbh FireHawk's are nice but perhaps not best suited for longer woodland fights imho - more tight cqb/urban skirmish Up to you - nigh on all the same sturdy stuff inside - stay away from sites with BB in their names

For a few quid more get the raider perhaps the short version long version is fine - makes little difference but short is a little more easy to use in tight spaces if doing cqb Reason I say £6 more for Raider is coz it has rails/RIS to attach stuff to like grip etc..... Many get the carbine - great gun btw & Zero One do the slightly shorter "lite" version but then they find out they wanna add bits but no rails on carbine.... Hence the Raider is the most popular G&G starter gun and worth the extra £6 imho Yes everybody has them - but so what if they are common as muck or very popular They are good value starter guns at the end of the day

Fairy Power Spray is about the best safe paint stripper out there Stripped off the thick green 2-tone from a Long Raider RIS and got 99.9% off and still kept the white number markings on the plastic RIS (very very minor specs here n there that you have to really look close in nooks/crannies) But it didn't fly off straight away - it needs a good soak for hour or two and stubborn areas - jeez Zero One really boat that paint on not just outside but had a a good covering right inside too ffs stubborn areas will need more work or even a soak overnight It is safe - I actually left it in soak for 36hrs coz I forgot about it but was fine People use it on loads of stuff - repainting plastic models etc...... But though it is very good it isn't a straight away immediate stripper and won't strip off really thick multiple coats straight away Moderately strong but delicate is what I'd call it about £3:50 at Asda Tesco etc.... - it is an oven cleaner but only get this - Mr Muscle or Dettol oven cleaner is not as good and grab a toothbrush - little baby kids one for tight nooks n crannies - get those from ya local poundlandshop will take a bit of time if you want good results - but that goes for anything in life I guess.... Most of your stuff could be metal so you could just use sand/emery paper to get the worst off But if you got or may still get some other 2-tone stuff it might be a wise consideration to grab a bottle for use on delicate plastic areas - well it not at least you will have a sparkling clean oven

put your hand around the standard M4 flash hider covering them little vents and it deffo makes a louder cracking sound

you will need a torch if you get lost in the darkness saves you running risk of going nose plant into a wall/barricade in pitch black often it is kind of just about ok in gloomy darkness but a few places it can get really pitch black nothing like it though

You have been watching that master of mag filling JambWow - jeez what a clown Today we will be using BULL$HIT bb's available on our website and you simply fill the mag like so.... Oooh f*ck..... way to go chubby - best place for them - on the floor Truth be told I didn't find them BullDog's that bad, FireBall 0.25's jeeez that was absolute dire egg shape bb's reckon 1 in about 6 came out a Jimmy - falling way way short & off course

one of my many things I'd like to do or finish off trouble is I take so long I often get distracted not just on here but start on something else I come across when I look into spares box or whilst browsing for bits OOOooohhh - there you are - right you was supposed to go in that other mofo and so it sets off a chain reaction of guns in bits and stages of tweaks/rebuilds

Just nigh on finished my on/off Raider project..... A while back I looked at short stroking and was reading up wrong info on some sites to take off BACK teeth Armed with this incorrect knowledge I cut of 2 BACK TEETH and was getting weird mofo results effectively by removing the teeth off back it was running fast on a lovely SHS 12:1 set of gears but nozzle didn't have enough time to seal against hop/bucking..... Crap - just boned a nice set of gears up and 12:1 gears are different to normal gears so can't just use an old 18:1 sector So they sat there reminding of yet another one of my failings, screw me taking the first bit of info as gospel... Anyway after another full stroke piston stripped I thought about trying those 12:1 boned gears with bits n bobs and stuff I had learnt from the HC05 DSG so to speak..... I need to get trim up the tappet plate to release earlier so shortened the length of the tappet plate fin but to ensure she opened long enough to feed bb's at higher speed a delay clip would be wise Last week or so all was working but a plastic/steel piston rack stripped at 45rps dry firing straight away - damn it 2 teeth removed btw on piston....... So I used same all metal teeth rack like on DSG but took off 4 teeth and a further 2 teeth on sector at START of sector where it should be removed..... learning by mistakes is good but costly and annoying sometimes To compenstate for 2 more teeth being removed an additional 5mm spacer was added - mainly coz couldn't be ar$ed to look for a m130 or something..... The idea was to build a SSG G&G that would perform faster on 7.4v than the stock HC05 DSG does on 11.1v and it does hit 33rps but that is with some seriously thick mofo wire and a mental neodym motor... it does fire on 11.1v at 45rps but it struggles to feed - well hardly feeds at all due mainly to 2 things.... The tappet plate timing would be better if I hadn't screwed it up in first place for ultra higher speeds plus On assembly I noticed the tappet spring itself was maybe a little lighter than other boxes so that won't be helping at silly speeds But I did what I set out to do and got to make use or good one of my earlier gearbox balls ups I will probably drop the motor to a slightly slower torquey motor and perhaps settle for say 26/27rps for more sensible lasting fun yup it was the horrid green 2-tone one I got cheap a while back - jeez that was fun stripping that off the raiders ris (well technically that box is still stock this was another CM with stripped piston but same meat/gearbox) To get to this stage meant I screwed up LOADS of times but have learnt not to go too nutz like I say will probably drop a slightly slower torquey motor in there to keep her at 26rps ish and hopefully last a while

ooooooh ya cow..... tell ya what when your Krytac breaks I lend you my B500A1 if I had just one good higher end gun to hand people would really see how bad I suck at this malarky

I've only been once last summer but do intend to pop back as it warms up - it is nice & cool down there so I don't sweat quite as much full on and very dark - but is deffo different and the Tunnel Rats are in a league of their own but very very good sports I found... not everybody's cuppa tea but should be experienced can't go tomorrow as I'm baby sitting my youngest but maybe in the next month I might return to be lit up again

Think I will keep raider as is for now if a GC16 front end comes up a cheap price but no biggy if not its got the rails but tbh I mainly keep my stuff stock externally atm it is a puzzler though - where do you start & where do you stop ????