Sitting Duck

Fire Support are the supreme dogs bollox for ICS guns n support other sites offer ICS sales and some spares but Fire Support are the ICS loving mofo's out there that will fully support your gun for service/parts A fair amount of ICS guns come with 2 x mags instead of just one (my clear M4A1 or W-42 Sportsline came with 2 mags) peq box is included probably coz it will require it (but description says front handguard ?) best thing to do is ask on here as well as google up more images or a video review or two of it or any gun you like the look of I haven't owned that model so can't really comment much more but ICS & fire support are reputable mofos

Perfectly normal The cycle has slightly over run a smidge The tappet plate starts to retract before the piston is drawn back and tappet releases in plenty of time with 4 teeth still to go on piston. Piston is released later when bb is loaded into hop/bucking and away the bb should fly. Soon afterwards the cutoff lever should kick in. Often though the cycle will over run a bit but bb is long gone. Nothing to worry about but you still have 40% of a revolution of sector as the piston releases before tappet plate pulls back again. (Long after bb has launched) DSG's have half that amount of time as everything is going nutz So I very much doubt if tappet is being jerked away from hop as piston releases. Check the full smooth movement of tappet and Max Stoke of it fully back to allow bb to feed and Max forward to seal against bucking. Worse case scenario is where your lips if bucking protrude a little to restrict easy bb entry into hop from feed tube, easy to think nozzle is at fault But as 2 hop units are having trouble I doubt that is a likely issue atm.... Quite likely some wear has taken place and tappet is not moving the full amount backwards/forwards Though forwards should still work correctly unless some crap has caught up at front of box stopping the full forward movement. Sometimes some tappet modding is required to allow Max possible total movement but before you go nutz you need to remove tappet spring and thoroughly check the tappet movement. Also place hop unit against box with tappet fully forward Blow down barrel, should seal lovely, pull hop a smidge away and see how much you can withdraw hop unit before seal is lost, hopefully a 1mm or so otherwise you are only just sealing and in use you will lose fps. For the record it would be a very lucky guess if anybody can 101%% accurately diagnose the fault straight away What YOU have to do is check EVERYTHING is operating smoothly and correctly deciding if a particular is worn or failing the tappet spring could be too light - but I can tell you to lop off a coil or two or replace the nozzle could be cracked or not seated correctly your bucking could be torn - hmm possible but you tried another hop/barrel with same results my present gut feeling is nozzle not aligned or sealing perfectly but also possible wear or tappet not moving correctly weird thing is it WAS ok but somehow something has gone right out of whack with a crunch tappet "may" have got damaged but it was piston skewed off rails, but guess the piston's pick up tooth could of caught and maybe got close rear of tappet plate ??? if you could perhaps take some pics of the internals then others may be able to check for possible issues that would be a wise thing to consider if still stumped - especially sometimes you can't see wood for the trees

If nozzle/tappet is travelling fully back n forth Correct nozzle length etc... Nothing out of ordinary or incorrect short stroke Check the tappet plate didn't get bored Make sure full Max movement back n forth All silky smooth And double check tappet and trigger springs fitted correctly If these are fitted incorrectly they can catch tappet plate sliding back n forth If all OK inside box then it looks to be nozzle not sealing with hop - numerous things, worn out of alignment etc.. The paper test on magwell is not a sure way of checking for airleaks in my book I have had paper stay put or move very little but still poor seals/fps Soz for bad grammar - fone is being a nob

Gearbox tightened up pissed to hop As it was tightened up the box tipped backwards The nozzle is now hitting the hop or not aligned 101% There is aa gap ciz nozzle not sealing Air pissing out = fps loss ??? That is my initial first stab You had a little hop problem before, quite likely it wasn't double feeding but 1 bb not firing correctly Another bb loads and then you see two fire Coz 1st one failed to fire previously 99% nozzle to hop related unless something worked in box

2 types of ak nozzle http://www.clandestineairsoft.com/nozzles-c-1_6_14/ useful bit of info on different nozzles might be a short ak if below 20mm (19.7 Vs 20.7mm aprox) better head, nozzle, o-ring on piston that will all help might be able to get some normal hop arm for hop to allow for various nubs should be a nice little gun to work on and the qucik change spring saves box exploding on ya too whilst working on her

I like the starter guns to mess about with I know a couple on here have the higher end ones but a fair amount of these have blowback on and they love them Personally I don't care for the blowback gimmick and some reports of the PBB boxes tend to fail or crack if pushed (the more stuff to go wrong n stuff plus the higher price is what puts me off the higher end G&G PBB boxes) The CM's & most are non blowback are what I like to mess around with (yes there are some PBB CM's about so be careful what you buy) In the past their mosfet's had a bad rep but the newer seems better (well couldn't get any worse than some bad batches) The CM's are as common as muck as other players may refer to them - or very popular if you are a G&G CM owner - the Fords of Airsoft but good decent starter guns IMHO only - much better than SRC and think the polymer receivers are better than ICS Sportsline guns plus G&G M4's offer you plenty of choice it is hard to pick just one - damn it (story of my life) They not perfect - I'll criticise various bits n bobs but they are a nice gun to work on yes motors are a little less oomph that maybe ICS, the bronzey bushings wear a bit too quick but overall they are very well built for the price Higher end stuff I can't see myself buying one new doubt if I really spend £300 for a gun off the shelf for a while tbh but that is just my take - plenty of people will buy TM Krytac WE or G&G TopTech etc.... I have mainly stuck to a £150 budget for any gun I've bought so far to me its a toy gun and I feel need to improve a bit to be worthy of a more expensive gun atm I can still blame "well c'mon its a starter gun" for my crappy skill or rather lack of it

you haven't said how old or if you got ukara etc..... if you have to start off with a 2-tone then Raider @ £123 is worth considering like I said you could get a higher end one in 2-tone and ahem customise or whatever but if 18+ and can get ukara then either hire or wait for ukara to obtain RIF A 2-tone Raider is one of the best/popular starter guns - remember to add in charger/battery/eyepro/bb's etc....th at £200 should just cover it all with say 2 x batteries charger n all the rest hiring could be best to test water but a few hires @ say £25 you could put that towards a starter obtain ukara if possible - flogg raider, you won't lose £75 on it or keep as spare there is no gospel of what n what not to do (well yeah avoid bb named sites) it is up to you but please read up a bit, the guides offer great advice - wish I found this place before I got mugged by JambWow but hey ho - live n learn, just try not to make same mistakes as I & a few others have done

yeah man - I got 1 o dem sik B500A1's I totally own my local field - all my m8s are gonna get 'em JBBG - best pro shop evaaaaaaahhhhhh

Really really daft and very very silly questions..... Are you 18+ Do you have defense/ukara or at very very least know somebody that can "gift" you RIF No offense but sounds a tiny bit like you don't know your ar$e from ya elbow on airsoft (don't take offense - I still get confused but I blame that on dementia - damn it what was I saying ????) Value for money but not complete crap usually 2 letters G and G (cue the TriggerHappy jibes) If you are starting out many say a decent-ish starter gun can be had for around £150 give or take £25 Carbine ain't worth getting over a Raider imho as Raider has rails for £6 more ICS are good but their lower end stuff isn't as diverse as G&G's In fact though higher end £250+ G&G's are thought to be better - I personally rather upgrade a G&G CM or buy a higher end M4 DO NOT BUY A GUN FROM ANY SITE WITH BB IN ITS NAME £100 or less guns are $hite and many have wasted time n money trying to scrimp too low grab a £80 gun from JBBG and will learn the hard way how $hit it is (plus they lie/not truely honest in their descriptions too - plastic gearbox/receiver - my feathery ar$e) FANTASTIC = bollox QUALITY = $hite FULL METAL - plastic and brittle plastic at that I could go on but think you are getting the idea and no I don't run with high end stuff at all but still cheapo stuff - but better cheapo stuff most of the time it is the player not gun that wins games - but doesn't mean a jbbg gun (I might be magic but I ain't a f*ckin' magician) a good decent starter like what we have said will do ya proud

May contain nuts though if collected from woodland sites

Easy there - these are REAL toy guns I tell my other half

G&G SR-? range is getting good reviews revamped CM receiver with a 3rnd burst mosfet in there (still polymer receiver but without the vivid CM logo) a lot of places have sold out due to popularity and the new range being launched (think this was the 2nd shipment most places got in at Z1 LWA etc.... - these normally get the first batches of G&G's) but a lot of places have also sold out it seems eg: airsoftworld.net and others. I'd maybe get skirmishing and hire until you get ukara'd if you are 18+ yes you can get a 2-tone but that to me is ok on a budget CM Raider say but if you are buying a nicer looking gun it would be wise to get it as a RIF once you are ukara'd than try to mess about removing 2-tone etc..... by then they will be in stock and be a lovely starter RIF to run with

reading the review think they are 8mm bushings the hop is ak type but nub is built into arm ??? might be able to partially replace bits of it - arm to accept a normal seperate nub but think the hop is adjustable from both sides unlike ak one just right side first uar's had battery up front when they first came out but later changed to rear wired plastic spring guide should be ok as long as you don't run crazy springs (might be able to fit a ver 3 with the "lugs" cut down to clear/enter box but you need to turn/lock guide into place under spring tension) if you bought the broken one this week that wasn't a bad buy with all them mags magwell is short n stubby and don't like the normal mags - even magwell mod can be tricky as the mags have less magwell walls supporting them but if you did get that one on here it is worth it with all them mags (was looking but gotta stop buying & get fixing guns - lol) nice gun - little qwerky but a nice change from the usual everybody hasthat "m4 ak g36 mp5" club

spring guide - very likely bespoke cylinder head - normal v2/3 head double o-ring should be fine but not the mega long ak or g36 type suggest a better plastic pom/nylon piston head if wanting to go faster or maybe a double o-ring ali one - but this would be the only ali one I'd use (make absolute sure you use loctite thread lock of piston bearing - often I don't fit them myself but if you do threadlock or it WILL come undone) piston - anything will do if stock piston is looking chewed up could go for an all metal rack plastic piston coz the uar is not a very very quick firing gun in its standard form more detailed stuff here: http://www.booliganairsoft.com/2013/03/aps-uar-urban-assault-rifle-aeg.html

Well they won't get nicked that's for sure reckon each bean bag could weigh about 20kg each reason why their mainly filled with polystyrene (bean bags not bulldog 0.12's)

G&G Raider, or CM18 or others... zero one free 2-tone if not ukara blah blah blah read: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/

I don't "think" it matters coz they do lose charge on their own dunno ig google or anybody would know the absolute correct answer but they deffo lose charge anyway I found - even new ones I bought with first gun

JBBG have been doing this for yonks BullDog aka BULL$HIT bb's actually they wasn't that bad - worst ones so far been BBGuns4Less - FireBall 0.25's f*ck me they are dire eggs shape crap think 1 in 3 or 4 fire really short (if TriggerHappy says it coz of G&G - pi$$ off ) WOOOOHOOOOOO my 2,000th post of utter $hite (damn I wish I wasn't outbidded on the "Get a Life" fleabay auction yesterday) Maybe if you had designed a fancy new CQB site You could make the floor slightly sloped with a gulley for them to run/collect into making it easier to clear up/recycle and keep the corridors main paths free of bb's Reality this would require a lot of careful planning/costs into a decent indoor arena site Alas most sites can't afford this much planning/budget as well as time to construct a false floor No doubt though there must be $hitloads of bb's need clearing after each player has fired off say 2k heck even 1k for semi only indoor cqb say - 2 teams of 20 = 40k + that is a lot of bb's rolling around and will need tidying up where do there go...... The Trimex recycling plant of course

Don't bother trying to store them charged To me they always seemed to lose charge in storage But that is normal I think.... Lipo's can't be allowed to drop too low or they crap out if they deplete too much (Think its below 3v they start to screw up a bit but don't quote me) Use nimah's n charge the night before Replace as n when with lipo is what most of us have done now

Spoon Feeding is one thing BUT I ain't f*ckin' BREAST FEEDING - no thanks (normally I'd post a daft silly pic but this thread is designed for short n simple answers - very difficult for me to comply with btw)

Check your previous posts I have tried to help you a couple of times

This guy also thought it was a typo too... Iwas gonna post a pic of Jimmy Krankie but it was getting a little confusing plus I didn't want to offend anybody North of the border.....

well if any mofo's can measure the bloomin' thing then pop along to hobbyking's - Battery Locator: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/lithium_polymer_battery_configuration.asp bung in dimensions of the 350mah 7.4v lipo - dunno the burst or the actual sizes (you rich bastid's have your moment to shine here) BUT - this sort of stuff might get you out of $hit http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=32170 NB: I AIN'T SAYING THE ABOVE BATTERY IS EXACT ONE TO FIT BUT JUST DUG UP SOMETHING if you get dimensions then you might be able to source something as per usual - it is up to potential buyer to double - triple check all dimensions n crap are within tolerances etc do not shoot the duck Or try to make up a dummy block size to enable you to work out the aprox dimensions off-cut of wood, rolled up cardboard taped together, couple of chewing gum packs, kitkat bar(s) etc.... almost anything to help suss out what dimensions you might have to work with.... drop a couple of mm off each max dimension to allow for give n take plus wires etc.... bang in the dimensions and see what comes up....

should use a large nimah 8.4v battery but with a small tamiya by default (unless the small tamiya has been replaced) say 150mm x 45mm x 25mm at a guess YOU really need to check out the max battery size yourself then weigh up what your options are (probably 7.4v 25/30c lipo tbh)

Absolute agree - if he has one to hand or arriving soon Think Ian's idea of slightly lower spring and add spacer/washers if needed is best Was just saying if he rips her open to consider cutting coil(s) might be worth a check/try spring in reverse & may drop fps (later on if spring loses tension refit spring correctly etc....) But yes correct spring is best option if available