Sitting Duck

35rps ??? I'm sure you SS with a m120, but SHS HS with 12:1 is gonna draw some amps could hit low 30's on 7.4v so Wattage wise it is not insanely high (not got a lot of LiPo space to play with) does sound a little shrilly considering both pinion & gears are SHS (don't flame me, not having a dig really, but just saying it could be a little smoother and I've done a recent stock rebuild that still sounds rougher than i expected, even with 3 different bevels etc...) but yeah nice looking gun for sure, I'm sure you are very pleased

As said it was to do with the noise reduction putting these in a DMR The ratio is about the same as std or just a smidge more eg: 18:1 to say 22:1 - they are certainly not 32:1's like some people have claimed So we are looking at "roughly" say 20:1 ratio on the helical sets so the ratio would not appeal to me for a std AEG or a mild snappy one sure I could use a High Speed Motor, but the amp draw would increase blah blah blah etc... So with the 200 or 300 option being 18:1 or say 22:1 I can see me personally using it to pull a heavier spring and listed a DMR example, not just for ratio but to utilise the smoother gear meshing to hopefully reduce noise (which could be of benefit to not drawn attention to your actual position very quickly from shrilly gears - though very little as pinion/bevel is still straight cut, but as Tesco says: Every little Helps) Now on a DMR with say 22:1 - I'd probably aim for some precock of 75% upwards but the precock is not important in "shrill" terms, as the gun still cycles 1 complete revolution (just where the thing actually stops dictated by the pre-cock or end of cycle position) So for each shot the gears would cycle a full revolution so you might want that full revolution to be as smooth or quiet/non-shrilly as possible Yes you could say or use these gears in any AEG, perhaps not such a huge benefit in a CQB build but then if stealth is req then gas pistol or knife is maybe the preferred option or consideration TL-DR, main point of helical gears is smoother meshing or transfer of power/energy so in light of this, I personally can only see 18:1 or 22:1 sets going in a DMR perhaps ??? Yes the gear ratio is a factor, for fully compressing a m130 (not partially compressing a m120/130 like in SS setup) But mostly due to slightly quieter/smoother meshing which can be of use in a sneaky DMR maybe if they did Higher Speed Helical gears, then yeah I'd dive them a go for sure in a snappy build even though as said, they have the bespoke bevel so screwed for a quick replacement if bevel busts The ratio & the calculation method of counting the number of turns the bevel to 1 rotation of sector is a rough ball park figure to establish the ratio of a std gear set which imho should include the 200 & 300:1 sets (dunno about a 4 gear set, but perhaps it might also apply) The bevel gear meshing to pinion is still cut straight so it still applies that the bevel ratio to pinion is the same as a straight set then the bevel rotates say 6.25 turns to one revolution on the sector multiply by 3 to arrive at say 18.65:1 ratio So this method of bevel to sector rotations can be easily used to quickly identify if you have a 18:1 set or a 16:1 (most 16's are 17.25:1 but VFC spurs produce a 16.5:1 ratio somehow) & if you have a 12:1 or 13:1 set (of course if the gears are stamped - then that is a good indication too) but the method does work imho & I can't see this not applying to the helical set as the gears are all cycling together the same way as a reg straight set and on the sector the teeth do not protrude like on a 32:1 sector where the sector gear has very large protruding 30 teeth meshing with the spur/step gear on the 32:1 set the spur has 11 inner teeth on the 18:1 set the spur has 20 inner teeth on most 16:1 sets the spur still has 20 inner teeth but less teeth on the outer edge compared to 18:1 spur's The 200 or 300 set seem to have say 45 outer teeth the 18:1 set has around 39 outer teeth on spur & 20 inner teeth the 16:1 set has around 35 outer teeth on spur & mostly 20 inner teeth (why 18 & 16's use the same type sector gears & SHS DSG's can be used with either) So a 16:1 spur has "spikey" teeth at the edge, but actually a couple less but 16:1 VFC's have 21 teeth on some of their odd spring loaded 16:1 spurs (and probably why you seem get a slightly faster 16:1 ratio on VFC's) (weird gear sets and sprung loaded crap is not that wise over shimming to exact position imho) another TL-DR - point being the ratio change is "mostly" dictated or altered depending on the spur/step gear actual gear teeth (and of course the sector being machined to match) some of these minor differences are hard to spot at first glance and if people wish to count teeth and work out the maths - that's fine but the bevel to sector ratio thingy does tend to work quite well as a quick easy way to work out or confirm the actual ratio of a gear set - eg: 18 or 16:1 or 13 or 12:1 and as far as I can tell I can see no real reason why the same method can't be applied to helical sets Now I do have a set of 200 & 300's somewhere in a box and I'm positive when I tested them using the bevel/sector method I arrived at say 22:1 and maybe a bit more/less (perhaps near 18 or maybe 24:1 - but certainly nowhere near 32:1 ratio some claim they equate to) if anybody has a 200 or 300 set to hand then please confirm the bevel/sector turn ratio I can't be arsed to go looking through boxes, it looks like there is say 45 & 21 teeth on a helical spur gear compared to say 39 & 11 teeth on a 32:1 spur gear so no I don't think the helical's are anything like a 32:1 set but 22:1 give or take a bit depending on 200 or 300 set Ultimate TL-DR - would be a fucking lot easier if they stopped this 200 or 300 bollox and just went with the normal ratio crap stating the sets as 22:1 instead

think the MK23 suppressor is a bit more than a potential slight bump like 50fps which could take you over the limit at a site

That v2 was the weird Elephant HK33 thingy but never caught on 13 years ago, took me a while to find it, though posted it before on here 6mm bushings shows it's old... http://www.france-airsoft.fr/forum/index.php?showtopic=74525 Remember when Specna Arms made their first QC M4's, like Krytac you still had to remove the friggin' box from receiver to change it (motor out, grip out, box out of receiver - might as well just open the damn thing up) until SA sorted out their receivers to allow spring change in situ But we are getting there, seems as each year goes by the "out of box" bar gets raised half decent seals, full metal or part metal rack pistons, even slightly better wiring & possible mosfet even the Cyma budget lines are switching to better blue tappets than clear hard tappets in v2's maybe not quite more bang for our buck, but a better quality bang perhaps like the TV's as std with the 200:100 I THINK the ratio is about the same as 18:1 or 18.65:1 with the 300:100 I THINK the ratio is about 22:1 BUT DON'T QUOTE ME - I got both SOMEWHERE and sure i tested one as a 7.5 turns of bevel to 1 sector rotation which multiplied by 3 = just over 22 or 22.5:1 I've seen people say these sets are more like 32:1 but that is bollox coz the 32:1 set has the rear sector teeth the exact same size/height as sector's piston teeth @ 3mm pitch and you must use the half width piston for 32:1's and get the shimming fucking exact (or teeth can catch/get in the way of half width teeth on piston rack) So no the helicals are not 32:1's but std or just a smidge more torque @ 22:1 aprox imho so unless they release a snappier 13:1 or 16:1 set I can only see them going in maybe a DMR you want to quieten down a fraction looking at TWG... 200:100 https://www.taiwangun.com/gears/steel-gears-set-100-200-helical-super-torque-kublai?from=listing&campaign-id=19 has a 10 tooth bevel where as the 300:100 https://www.taiwangun.com/gears/steel-gears-set-100-300-helical-high-torque-kublai?from=listing&campaign-id=19 has a 9 tooth bevel which will effect the ratio probably 18.65 x 1.1 = 20.5:1 maybe ??? (assuming the 200:100 is like std ratio) But the 200 & 300 sets look the same at first glance on the spur/sector - just a 10 or 9 tooth bevel anyway - I would want a snappier helical set than what is on offer at the moment

& the issue with the present helical gear sets: 100:200 or 100:300 = a helical bevel gear that afaik they don't sell on their own meaning if it strips, you can't use any old spare bevel in your junk box coz there is not regular cut usual 10 tooth bevel gear, but a bespoke helical bevel gear driving the spur etc... Some of the ideas are taking the basic stuff to the next level which tbh are we really ready for ??? helical gear set - why not helical pinion and for that matter why not helical steel rack piston ??? brushless motor - you are still looking at a motor costing 3 times the price of a std neodym motor (maybe 4 times the price) and you would need some sort of controller or system board... placed on/near the motor - it will be getting rather warm/hot so somewhere inside box perhaps to control brushless/stepper motor in RC's you need the controller for them motors... but it "could" be done as we have said However that is if people really wanted or felt the need to make that next jump in technology I mean MAYBE some higher end manufacturer could look to implement some fo this but would they really get a return on it knowing that if successful this innovative design will just knocked out on the cheap & slapped into cheap mid range China guns within 6~12 months Personally I think we have around another 2 years, or maybe 3 of squeezing out the max efficiency in out of the box guns - there is no denying that guns today are offering you much more bang for ya buck and are setting a revised standard in what we expect at say £100, £150, £200 etc... Somewhere at say £125 you are expecting - well maybe seeing a gun with mosfet £150 QC spring gearbox, £175 higher barrel/hop unit & £200 pretty much all if that with a decent or better motor meaning less must have tweaks required Bit like TV's - they haven't got insanely cheap that they fall out of cereal packets but instead you are getting a STFU 50" Smart arse 4k TV for the price you paid for your old crappy 32" box tube telly (figure of speech, don't quote me on black friday AO deals, nor will a 50" fit in a box of Coco Pops) Personally I'd like to see some parts made with a bit more allowance for tuning/tweaking Cylinder heads set back just say 1mm further casting, with sorbo/neoprene or AoE increased a smidge already V2 gearboxes with trigger "tang" stops/limiters as std - rather just a few reinforced boxes having them (so you can set the trigger pull limit more easily) Maybe a V2 with a motor cage - but never caught on... weird eh ???

very expensive the first one... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Novatech-X-PERT-MOTORE-GP-350-Brushless-Motor-LONG-M4-FET-AEG-SOFTAIR-AIRSOFT-/322579004376 or https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000937507182.html & the more recent one... https://ast-gun.airsofttaiwan.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2740 wonder if they are like stepper motors - those fuckers stop dead and never budge (unlikely to need a mega AR latch maybe ???) requiring a controller, to ergh control them but with more & more bells n whistles inside the box with internal mosfets & crap it would be doable maybe to incorporate it all perhaps to control the motor starting & stopping exactly imagine a precock right right on the limit of the last tooth just about to slip every time now these super torquey stepper motors might be hard to build into a reg AEG perhaps but could be built into a bespoke support gun or sniper perhaps personally I like the ye olde simple stuff - have enough grief with just the basic crap let alone more complicated shit

My thoughts... FFS - buy the fucking M904G just for the box & board reshell the box with bells n whistles into a best gnu evvaaaa body then use the std box in the 904, do a 13:1 or heck DSG on it (less to go wrong) and keep/sell it I was erghing about doing a 904 DSG, just plop in a DSG sector trim tappet and go with that, for shits & giggles BUT wasn't sure if the fancy mosfet could handle the amp draw of a DSG m160 spring etc... so was leaning towards gutting it and using another box eg: swap over a crappy picky ETU G&G box, back to old school, into 904 & use the 904 fancy box in the picky ETU G&G I mean yeah you could buy a Titan but I'd buy the 904 and get some of the features but a complete gun to play around with too and yes I'm still fighting with myself over the 904 which atm is a tie or split decision, too close to call if I will submit to one TORN doesn't cover it, I got so much crap already, but I could see me messing about with it (actually might have to buy two of them - damn these crazy shit ideas are starting again)

not much... just ALL OF IT bespoke sector had no cam(s) to activate the missing COL etc... oddly enough they seemed to originally plan to use a conventional DSG with 3mm than 5mm axles and with COL cams etc... dug from archives & Japanese Amazon, copying Riot/Seigetek v1 DSG sectors assume G&G feared copyright, so changed axle & lost cams (fuck knows why they didn't speak to Riot (had a thread going on Airsoft Mechanics too) or just tie up with SHS DSG that had been out a little while But likely, still fearful of being sued for copyright, even indirectly if using a SHS DSG (China don't give a fuck about patents, but G&G could still be liable if using copied parts themselves) So the genius at G&G R&D thought, we'll make 5mm axle and drop the cams - thus not copying Riot/Seigetek No you tools, make a CQB gun that you can't use for CQB - FUCKING IDIOTS The King Kong Burst wizard, kinda worked of a sort, but not quite as voltage dropped the semi setting went out a little etc... Could have, should have just pulled it out and used a SHS DSG, but box has 9mm not 8mm bearings (most of them, or 2 out of 3 pairs had 5mm inner races) but only quickly grabbed 9mm bearings & std 9mm bearings (with 3mm axles) wouldn't perhaps be wise (if I managed to source 9mm bushings whilst the thing was in bits then maybe SHS DSG would have gone in with a COL etc...) I was pissed, had the the thing in bits and didn't want to wait too long for 5ku bushings from China (was the only options I could see at time of review, but SHS 9mm bearings from Bullseye came through) As said, the War & Peace rant/review was/is more of a stern warning to potential buyers (seriously AVOID THIS GUN unless you like a POS challenge) I could probably do it all properly now as got some 5KU bushings and would not use the M160 motor, insanely fast but they don't last (especially in a DSG build) - crazy shit, was "fun", or learning curve absolute c*nt to get spring back in etc... but - yeah, probably one of them guns to avoid perhaps it is more of a strong warning to potential buyers... in case you got nowt to do all weekend... Seriously, people should avoid this gun (and the review as it will be hours of your life you will never get back)

iz fine coz it was a 2 tone (black/white) & waz an imitation firearm (wazn't a very realistic imitation firearm az ya can see)

G&G DSG FireHawk HC05 - only to find out it was full auto only no semi etc... That is the worst example, other disappointments were minor compared to this Could moan about ETU G&G's, but been done to death anyway the HC05 was a kick in the teeth, but gained a bit of experience from it

***** SOLD ***** Gun 4 sale works (i fink) PM me

if there was a black/tan version then you wouldn't face this colour issue... Actually that is not quite correct... The G&G CM18 comes as black & tan or tan & black To avoid the issue as which one is best - I bought both but then I do have OCD & many other issues too the 904G is back in stock but I'm really really torn if I will be buying much partly coz I got too much shit already but also coz I'm really trying to refrain from buying more shit from China due to COVID etc... Don't get me wrong, I could easily blow hundreds on peew peew, new vape crap (ex-smoker) plus many many other bits of throw away crap in our throw away world today ( maybe even environmental green recycle crap issues ??? ) But really I'm refraining or cutting back on enriching China quite as much as I used to (will make fuck all difference tbh, but just my thoughts at present) Very difficult to maintain at times & very tempted to grab a 904G but will see if I submit to those Chinese Demon Dragons of peew peew

Then your option is a sorbo pad topped with 2mm neoprene Punched off centre to match the v7 type cylinder head etc... Sorta custom scatterplot pad... But make your own up You could buy say a 22mm silicone pad/disc/blank washer Then punch your own hole say 7-10mm hole Or sorbo feet for hifi sound - solid sorbo discs on eBay But ensure you top it with robust neoprene pad At least 2mm thick, 1mm doesn't last I found Somewhere say 20-22mm diameter, about 3mm thick Re-use old pad etc... Cleaned up surface (Washing up liquid suds, score surface & super glue it together) That is about your best option to try than go down spring route just yet

Google: " Bye bye sorbo " on some sniper forum for silicone pad on cylinder head Or The issue with the SLAP is piston hitting a very hard neoprene pad Which be be a very loud or pronounced SLAP if head & pad are both hard & flat,effectively creating more of a CLAP A braked piston head like above might cause issues in very high rof guns But not so for slower rof guns like DMR's In snappier guns the classic soft mushroom heads are maybe better suited Or you can experiment and create your own type of braked head I've used the domed silicone cylinder head With a more curved Cyma piston head etc... Sorbo MUST be topped off with at least 2mm neoprene or it will just shred itself to bits in use very quickly The sound is only part of the problem... The actual energy transmitting to the box long term is the real issue for me and why personally I prefer to use plastic cylinder heads though the difference is negligible perhaps but in my mind the plastic may not transmit the impact quite as much as an alloy cylinder head Though they are rubber cushioned heads etc... All this Airsoft tech crap is often our own personal theories and preferences to be absolutely honest Actual real scientific engineering studies are few & far between on toy guns So we tend to roll with what WE ourselves think works best for US The debates continue over correcting AoE & how much... If PTFE actually works or if it is a bad bodge (it fucking works if done correctly but if done poorly it is a bad bodge, it is still a bit of a bodge but it does work if done properly) I don't always agree with everybody on everything And vice versa some may disagree with me at times We do shit to our OUR OWN personal preferences and our methods & techniques are constantly being reviewed on their effectiveness etc... Or they should be, I do shit a little different to what I did day 2 years ago and quite different to what I did day 6 years ago when I first went peew peew If you think the conical spring had merit then go for it But you asked for opinions/thoughts So I responded As said by all means give it a go, report back But many will sceptical and you are introducing potential issues imho if spring works loose... Ask anybody with a bearing piston head, that worked loose and destroyed their box. Despite it being tightened up to the max (Threadlock required - but I personally don't use bearings on piston heads) No, like the example given, I keep stuff simple (Bit like the wheel which we tend to not try to reinvent)

Just NO Sorbo, silicone or a braked piston head to reduce impact are about the only real options The thought of a tiny spring versus the main spring How will it be affixed and the damage it will cause if it shifts out of position The design of AEG's is extremely crude & basic But also so is the wheel

What do ya want exactly... but here's a bit of info on the UAR... http://www.booliganairsoft.com/2013/03/aps-uar-urban-assault-rifle-aeg.html ver 1 (rare or not so common) has battery up front like in review ver 2 has battery at the back for the last 5 years or so barrel is about 430mm ish good spring tester gun coz QC spring but std motor is lame cheapo one, struggles to pull/test over a m120 spring say but very long trigger travel - bit sloppy coz 2 part v3 trigger plus linkage for bulpup design can take short m4 mags if magwell modded slightly or use UAR mags, but issue is magwell is not that deep so little support (I'd forget using really big hi cap mags) *** pictures in review are ye old photo bucket & won't display trying to view/zoom in on them *** but might provide a bit of info to weigh up if plausible project (personally - just slap on extra crap to make it look Halo/Nerfy than fuck about trying to reshell it) in other words transform the UAR into a Nerf than try to jam the UAR into a Nerf Taiwangun is best place to grab one if you decide to proceed odd weird bespoke gun - I just use mine for testing springs

TOOOOOOOOOOONNNNNNNN... too many to list but ya know dem gud toooonz especially classics

Alternative is to try another pistol grip Only sometimes some grips are worse than others/stock grip I don't normally advise changing grips if you can help it Some cheapo Magpul ones are really bad for increasing motor whine But on your case you might to consider it if STD grip is a bit tight Or kinda bespoke 4mm is a bit tight though... You tried the motor only in bare grip ??? It might be how you are routing the wires Apart from different grips effecting motor angle Some grips are tighter/looser in how they slip over bottom of V2 box As well as how much room inside the grip Also on top of that the motor entry point can be bigger/smaller Some so tight certain pinions can be a squeeze to get through And motor tower, the sleeve on long motors can vary a little also All of this adds up, some can really sloppy and some insanely tight Hence if the std grip is OK then I tend to keep it (Than run into more problems switching it out for looks) But as said in your case, I'd try bare motor in grip No wires and see how it fits If that works, see how the wire is routed Some guns have a wire run down both sides of motor Others the red, enters grip at front BUT crosses over to rear where black is Then BOTH run down back of motor on some guns But this will req a bit more wire length on red positive wire Some guns have this & others don't Seen both examples on a G&G Combat Machine Usually it is a wire either side running down grip on a number of M4's But some recommend running red back to grip then both down to motor connection to produce a better motor angle they say But to do this will mean the red wire is a little longer to achieve this If your red wire has extra slack on it Then it might be initially wired to run both wires at back Take off grip, have a play with motor & see if you can work it out Might be able to remove a whisker of material Or just rout the wires more carefully so that is all squeezes in there ok Yes motors can vary a little in thickness Even the exact position on the pinion can alter It usually they are within some tolerance Though I have some armatures sit a bit low on shaft And pinion then sits quite high (or vice versa) Some motors say in V3 motor cages can be tight/loose But 4mm is a big difference Might want to invest in a caliper to measure stuff Like shims, battery space, just loads of stuff than guess it If try the motor in grip only and see how it goes

Whatever you do it will still be a G&G Raider tbh on that sorta gun - you just use it or sell it and buy a different model if the RIS is two tone then you could/might strip/paint it AFTER you get UKARA'd but really use it for what it is, it is a light starter gun and there is nowt really wrong with it why bother trying to stick a £40 metal RIS on a £100 value gun it won't do fuck all really - you can stick shit on the std Raider RIS OK RIS stuff - especially cheap stuff can be iffy on any gun sometimes the threads are really tight, stuff doesn't align correctly or there is a ridge between top of receiver & RIS system that just looks odd Not all RIS upgrades go according to plan & personally I'd refrain from going too nutz on a two tone starter - even a Raider save ya money for a different model is best advice

What MIGHT be inside.... now could ANYTHING from a shitty micro-switch POS to a basic trigger/trolley but as said MIGHT be like BattleHawk internals... At first glance it looks like an Ultimate/Lonex gearbox but Lonex tappet plates have cut out like Cyma V2's (where extra material is upfront & INSIDE the Cyma box, hence the tappet is cut/stepped at front) I don't see a stepped tappet plate so not quite a Lonex oem box like it looks like or nope the tappet isn't stepped... Think Ultimate have a "regular" tappet plate - not stepped but I see people refer to them as Ultimate/Lonex as nigh on same box so who knows if they share stuff or have revised things From the looks of things, it seems that Lonex make the stepped tappet plate but the pic seems to show no real pronounced extra material inside like Cyma V2's So maybe Lonex are Ultimate's and you might have an oem type box with fancy mosfet if you're lucky Though classic Lonex/Ultimate's were not QC springs, likely something like the TomTac V2 boxes (they were QC springs but looked like Lonex - but weren't) But who knows what is there, likely a oem TomTac type box LT seem to use in higher end guns with fancy ETU Could be an oem SA box, not really up on recent boxes tbh gears look std China gears - probably OK, box isn't reinforced so 13:1's drop straight in motor entry point has little support for for motor tower/sleeve (common on non reinforced boxes), so ensure motor doesn't slop about in pistol grip (or motor really will jump all over the place and whine) Looks OK, think it was the look of the gun than the brand that caught your eye could just give it a service & the once over, but scope to go a little crazy perhaps though unsure how the ETU will hold up and being bespoke I'd keep it as is tbh than build it with more snap & stress anyway - hope the clip gives you a clue what MIGHT be inside

me too squire, I might understand why guns break only coz I've broken sooooooooo many myself I am the Doug (from Scrubs) of airsoft takes years of screw ups to realise he isn't cut out to be a doctor but becomes a natural expert at autopsy...

possibly send to a tech - mightyjebus might be one, Jez Armstrong or Luke Negative Airsoft it can be done, the important bit with any work is to replace only the bits that need it and avoid throwing too much time/money at something reckon it can fixed or slight bodge for a while until it needs more work/service further down the line

in the pic... there is a tiny small screw missing on a plate/mount- where your pinky is then there are two perhaps slightly larger countersunk screws that hold the lower hop onto the plate the tiny screw by your pinky is a pan/jap head and may not be a big deal though I don't think it would hurt trying to put one back in there - the wiring should still clear it (it is a front wired M4) then two countersunk self tapping screws (most likely) afix the lower part onto mount as i said and it should all be golden - but don't over over tighten the cracked side just try to re-affix it all in place better, so it doesn't shift around and it should improve the feeding if not - send it to a tech but just try to replace the missing screws if you can, I think though cracked it "shouldn't be tooooo bad" use it for plinking and if it goes again then look for a tech perhaps

finding one might be tricky... sometimes the lower half is an alloy but older SRC & JG has them in too, Classic Army & others - not for about 5 or 6 years though on plastic receivers people often cut away material to fit in a modern one piece metal receiver will be a bit more tricky you should try to source a replacement before going nuts your gun might need a service and though the part is slightly broken it could be almost OK if the unit doesn't move too much the lower is only the feed tube, the top part is when the bucking does its magic as long as a bb will slip in front of the nozzle it has done its main objective if it shifts around a lot it might throw the upper part out of alignment but if it can be glued/secured it should not be a big issue What I mean is, yes it could effect feeding, but you could have other issues like a badly worn tappet fin - though it looks like the nozzle/tappet is fully retracted however there are two screws missing and another mounting plate... I'm wondering if that could be fixed better or remove most of the unit and need little material removed to fit a nice one piece in there... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/ZCI-brand/zci-rotary-hopup-chamber-plastic-m4 EDIT - I shut up as @mightyjebus is covering it so well but yeah you might wanna send to a tech to look at best option as you sound a bit of a new comer (we call them BB's than bullets - not having a go, but maybe your tech experience is a bit limited) no offence meant - I'm guessing you got this older gun and it don't quite work 101% then maybe send to a tech to give it a once over too is good suggestion PS - 200% recognition on supplying some good pics - really really helps a LOT welcome to AF-UK btw & I'm out of here