Sitting Duck

Best thing is to read the tutorials/guides in the beginners section first perhaps In case it fails to display in my sig.... New players - please - pretty please read the guides first in New Players Section An absolute must read is this one: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ & http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/30038-budget-of-ll-lll-what-gun-to-choose/#entry232449 plus a search is less keystrokes that creating same ol' new posts again & again - what to buy etc.... Most stuff will be covered I would say, LOADS of info, wish I found this before (made a few bad first purchases and wotnot - could have avoided that if I read up first) Glance over the guides if you still have a question then ask away sir PS - welcome to the forum

Element M105 maybe a SHS M100 but might be a smidge low SHS M110 will be too high Reckon you need a new piston o-ring - that might be where you could losing some fps could pfte the cylinder head, SHS M4 nozzle perhaps but reckon the piston head o-ring isn't great - that is usual big culprit of fps loss Element M105 & better seals should get you at 348fps on 0.20's (or 310/315 on 0.25's roughly speaking)

Just an example of the real importance of checking EVERYTHING !!!! A common problem that is often overlooked is shimming badly or too tight AND a new piston that is a little too tight or binds inside the gearbox.... (Above all else care & attention to detail is of the utmost importance so check EVERYTHING) Reason being is that many rip everything out and replace loads of new stuff slapping it all together Then wonder wtf that is a bit slow/sounds crap/getting very warm/hot quickly etc..... If your piston is binding, your rof is likely to be lower and your amps higher plus gun's efficiency will be crap Also the piston will be slower to return on release so your expected fps will be down (Start pushing a gun with a binding piston and PME is likely to occur sooner too) You don't want to see a very loose sloppy fitting piston with loads of slack moving all over the place But you need to check it moves freely and falls on its own when fitted inside the box (screws done up) Here is a pic of a slightly binding piston for somebody with a lower rof than expected issue.... Hence it is sooooooooooo important to pay attention when fitting replacement parts Fairly sure the picture speaks for itself, but a mild bit of sanding on gearbox rails or piston guides is required btw the gearbox is standing vertically upright but still the piston does not fall freely PS - same piston does not seem to bind in a G&G box but never ever just assume anything will work 101%

Customer Service - when things go tits up & how crap is resolved think that is what he means

like the fire select: QUIET - SOLO - GO LOUD (are you putting one of the noisy bastid amplifiers on there then ?) large fixed stock - any battery will fit & a mars bar too most likely (ideal for any DMR you might make, might be a tad big for general pew pew) looks alright - if you need a receiver pin: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Airsoft-AEG-Standard-Body-Pin-Pack-of-10-M-AR-Series-Black-Fast-UK-/161711167979?hash=item25a6bc99eb:g:mS8AAOSwpdpVXM~u what is the barrel - 340mm ish ???

here is a nice stripdown of one - with a cracked box - lol nothing awesome except the quick detach front of gearbox nice "cracking" gun yeah think ASG or Krytac over the TM G3

TM G3 HC is just basically a tarty G3 no mosfet & Shortstroked 3 teeth pushing 290fps doing say 25rps That is it when you break it down to the bare bones - nothing awesome except for the name Assembled well but then you are not buying a £100 JG G3 at the end of the day The High Cycle is just a 13 tooth sector gear - first 3 teeth cut off to shorten the stroke & allow faster return of piston grab a dremel & DIY

Blimey - looks like somebody welded a party 7 tin of beer to a short midcap: showing my age - younger players saying eh? wtf does that mean ??? beer all over the ceiling trying to open the bastid with screwdrivers & $hit

Yeah - the classic: " I'm just looking after them for a friend.... " - that probably won't quite cut it

But next you open a gun bag expecting it to be empty and find a dozen pair of her shoes... The game is up - hang on where did she get the money.... More important - where the f*ck have my other guns got to ???

Depends on a few or number of factors.... Depends on gun: The Noes or not really worth it - or avoid if possible Bulldog 500A1 - forget it unless you are a sad bastid and love a big challenge for $hits n giggles SRC - Sportsline's - depends some dragon's have a plastic box, most have metal box - but 1 piece hop (SRC answer - nah not really - maybe a little but only when stuff breaks but ffs don't go nutz) BBGuns4less - Krinkov bright orange AK plastic box - see SRC Dragon, can work but still nah Cyma's 5xx range: M4 - OK probably best cheapo gun out there sub £100 AK - the top battery dust cover is plastic and will require care or metal one (tbh if poss buy the slightly more expensive 028 range or others - another £10or so well spent imho) Better but more expensive Starter's: Cyma's - the slightly better ones on offer, JG D-Boys blah blah blah (£100 to say £150 or so) G&G's - M4's nuff said but perhaps avoid the daft etu ones and just get something old skool that upgrades ok ICS - another nice one You get the idea... NEXT - who is going to do the work/upgrades ??? Yourself - as long as you some basic common sense the why not ? even as a large learning curve then yeah go for it especially if it is f*cked or semi f*cked (what have you got to lose) A shop or " Tech " and I use the term loosely coz there a few that may not be worthy of that term This will cost so you need to use a good one with proven track record or reviews Time is never free so this cost factor will have to be considered as well as the big question: " HOW FAR DO YOU GO ? " or " WHERE DO YOU START & WHERE DO YOU STOP ? " PRICE OF PARTS - let alone who fits it all: Gearbox upgrades can vary from say £10 to oooh £100+ if you replace all plus motor/mosfet etc.... Hop-Barrel-Bucking can vary from £10 to £50 or more On average say £50 - £75 might be average starting point but it is hard to quantify but half of this might be needed at some point with just general wear & tear or a part failing The issue comes from when you start/stop if box is open then replace/upgrade that too (before you know it that original budget might be looking to double for example) The other factor is down to the owner - it is their gun after all.... Whatever you do to a Raider it will still be a Raider or on the outside it will appear to be Does this bother the owner - if not then no worries If you have a G&G 18k motor fitted to most Carbine/Raiders and some others then that is $hit for upgrades If you have the chrome blue "powerful motor" - this is better and might be in CM18's FireHawk's and maybe some others The orange efrit neodym motor in some others like predator's are quite good Why does this matter - well a new SHS motor is £30 so that could go elsewhere if not needed right now (can always replace later but if going nutz with 13:1 gears then you might want a good motor & then maybe mosfet) All of this adds up not just in money for parts but a very costly issue is time time not just in fitting but trouble shooting any issues also - it can really mount up (if you was paying somebody then either just repair/replace or go as nutz as you feel you want to but in one go perhaps) Then things is - everybody & every gun will be vary on what they perceive is worth doing It is hard to quantify what the level of nutz is, but I feel the manufacturers need to rethink their spec If I was buying a gun over £200 -well deffo over £250 I would strongly expect it to come with: a mosfet, AoE corrected, Deans etc.... Now I know Krytac/Alizzard was saying they can't use deans & can't use china copy deans but surely... (Stop calling me Shirley) Surely they could use Star power connectors: but hey ho - there ya go my quick rough short thoughts - pah when have I ever given a brief quick response it is not easy to give a simple one-for-all answer - depends on gun/budget/owner themselves etc....

Think the more important upgrades are the owner of the gun.... With me - deffo could improve my skill level - a LOT but I have an medium chill level I think (most times) with others - upgrade to a more chilled level - sometimes see players with a higher stress level than their guns plus there is a few downgrades where some have a high w@nker level on the field - I'm not perfect btw (this w@nker factor is normally more annoying tbh) The dick factor though is much more dangerous and this should be removed or reduced as much as possible (dicks are a possible risk to all especially the main player's health if others administer their own downgrades) ahhh wtf - when Mrs Duck says I'm immature ( I know you are ner ner ne ne ner nahh I mutter under my breath ) Great - I don't feel so worried about being an old fart playing with toy guns still As been said - your gun so do what ya want

anything as long as it goes..... I really wanted to get me one of these bad boys in my youthful years though: Ahhhh god bless good ol' Viz