ak2m4

I'd guess the stronger spring and 11.1 were too much for a standard shell.
You probably had a poor air seal so compensating with a heavier spring is not the way to go.
Personally I would never use an 11.1 in a standard gearbox but I hate high rof builds anyway. 😉

Happy New year chaps and chappesses.  Got back from the land of the little people so feeling a bit zoned out.
 
Thought I'd have a look at my beloved Specna as it sounded awful last game day and wasn't feeding.  Was hoping it was the tappet spring again but no:
 

 
So that's Donald Ducked.
 
 
The two spare boxes i have dont quite fit for different reasons,  so off to Cage Airsoft it goes for dealing with it (wiring harness is fecked too).
 
Looking forward to a skirmish day, but Spec Ops isn't open until Feb, so maybe South Herts or AWA.
 
Hope everyone had a good break?

Yes & no, fets, sound generators, tracers, smoke generators, various options for recoil, hpa, wanker guns, the list is seemingly endless. 
Or, you could run a bog standard aeg with technology more than 25 years old, & still dominate the battlefield. 
Works for me 😁
 
 
 
 
(sometimes lol😏) 

Always a pleasure ordering from here, never had any issues.
 
Ordered one of his new XT 6.02 Inner barrels and a maple leaf 60 bucking & nub.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

It does look like you are clearing some grease from the barrel, which is a good thing.  There will be some resistance but, if it is too much, use less cleaning rag.  I would not use a paper towel, though.  Use something softer to reduce the risk of scratching the barrel; I use strips of J-Cloth with Isopropyl alcohol.  Make sure you do not damage the hop rubber.  It is better to take the barrel out of the gun to do it, if possible; that enables you to get a good look down the barrel to make sure it is clean.
 

Been recently having a play around and checking out the internals of the new Cyma platinum SLR AKs. A couple of things stand out to me.
 
The new hop unit (Yes the one with inbuilt tracer...) has had a lot of thought put into it. Tracers are not my thing however you can easily turn it off with a flick of a switch. The one thing however that I really like about it is that they have fixed the issue where the hop setting self adjusts. Usually this is done by an O-ring however as some as you know it is not always the most reliable. What CYMA have done with this unit is under the adjustment slider they have added a little hole where a spring sits with a plastic tip (Like the ones you get under M4 selectors to give the *click*). They have then serrated the the underneath of the adjustment slider. This means you can do tiny clicks of movement easily and it also sits nice and rigid.
 
The gearbox is a DYTAC gearbox which I believe CYMA are the OEM of so it should be nice and strong. It has the typical platinum internals with it being 13:1, mosfet and the cyma blue compression parts. One thing I have noticed is that I believe the shop where it is purchased it from has put in a different motor from stock. Usually CYMA platinum motors have a cyma logo on the side where as this one has a white stick label on on it that says 'To go into CYMA blue' or something alone the lines.  It seems like putting in a m120 with the 13:1 it doesn't like it 100% so will be putting in a ZCI 22 in.
 
Overall quite impressed with it all. There needs to be a slight modification to the piston which I might update this post with once done. Also might put in a different mosfet if this one fails (Ideally a perun hybrid v3 but I'm not great at soldering).

Which is why we should always use Joules rather than FPS.

Unfortunately, the answer to your question rather depends on what spring is in there now giving you 350FPS.

If it is an M100, an M90 or M95 should do the trick; however, it is impossible to give an accurate answer.  The XT springs from AK2M4 are very good. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/springs

Bought a new XT inner barrel and maple leaf 60 bucking and nub from our friend @ak2m4

Given the size of Bunker 51, I doubt that his ego would fit in.

Ignore all the neg comments above... WILL KICKINGMUSTANG BE HERE?

I used a Lee Precision Airbrake piston on a build a few years ago.
 
Made only the slightest bit of difference to the noise (more...'thuddy'...) and I was paraniod that the air brake bit might shear off at some point (it was the delrin version). Nicely engineered otherwise.
 
Never used one since though - I much prefer XT POM piston heads from @ak2m4

The quality of ZCI has taken a little nose dive recently so I really don't want to stock them anymore.  On the few remaining ones I have left I have to do a number of tests on them before I let them out the door.  On a couple I've even noticed some bits of metal sticking out down the bore, here's one I found, this one actually broke my mirror on my new bore scope 😞
 
I've got my own coming out under the XT brand, much higher polishing quality, slightly bigger hop window.  Just waiting for the factory to make the 6.03mm version.  They sent over some 6.01mm samples.  I might even have a 380mm somewhere

 

 

How much extra feats-percent will I get, mister?

With the 6.01 you're likely to get a better grouping, and slightly higher power.  However it's very dependent on having the nozzle, hop rubber, hop chamber setup correctly.  Also some AEG's just play differently.  6.03 is a little more less prone to jamming.  I did receive some 6.05 x 128mm testers as well and I got amazing results even with 0.2g.  I was very surprised so I might even arrange for some of those to be made.  I'm hoping production will start mid-Jan with a small run.
 
 
For the price of a spring it's definitely worth grabbing a new one of the XT, you might only need a M100.  

The factory did the actual RA surface test with a Profilometer gauge.  For a decent one they're kinda expensive.  They take sample barrels during production, cut them open and measure etc.  You can actually measure a fair amount yourself with a good borescope and then compare against a chart.

I'm also looking into polishing as well for some projects, a factory has said they could build me a custom machine to do the work, just waiting on a price 🙂 

The quality of ZCI has taken a little nose dive recently so I really don't want to stock them anymore.  On the few remaining ones I have left I have to do a number of tests on them before I let them out the door.  On a couple I've even noticed some bits of metal sticking out down the bore, here's one I found, this one actually broke my mirror on my new bore scope 😞
 
I've got my own coming out under the XT brand, much higher polishing quality, slightly bigger hop window.  Just waiting for the factory to make the 6.03mm version.  They sent over some 6.01mm samples.  I might even have a 380mm somewhere

 

 

With the 6.01 you're likely to get a better grouping, and slightly higher power.  However it's very dependent on having the nozzle, hop rubber, hop chamber setup correctly.  Also some AEG's just play differently.  6.03 is a little more less prone to jamming.  I did receive some 6.05 x 128mm testers as well and I got amazing results even with 0.2g.  I was very surprised so I might even arrange for some of those to be made.  I'm hoping production will start mid-Jan with a small run.
 
 
For the price of a spring it's definitely worth grabbing a new one of the XT, you might only need a M100.  

The factory did the actual RA surface test with a Profilometer gauge.  For a decent one they're kinda expensive.  They take sample barrels during production, cut them open and measure etc.  You can actually measure a fair amount yourself with a good borescope and then compare against a chart.

I'm also looking into polishing as well for some projects, a factory has said they could build me a custom machine to do the work, just waiting on a price 🙂 

Whilst the safest bet is to replace like for like you won't necessarily lose any power, lot of factors in play, kinda one of those things you need to experiment with.

In advance, I am not a business, I just want to buy one, along with some of my daily necessities together to send, if anyone wants to buy with me then contact me.
It's about 100 pounds each， If anyone needs it, I'll order it for him. no deposit required.
Without further ado, I just show the videos and pictures.And you can choose different styles for AK or AR like SOCOM or PBS and QDC and osprey.
Any questions can be pointed out in the comments section.
Because I've used it before, it works better than Smokey Wolf
 

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