Russe11

I have used an M04 gas mask and found all the issues mentioned previously. I did quite a few alterations. The mounting points for the straps are weak and break so I removed them and drilled holes and bolted the straps to the mask. The lenses themselves are pretty sturdy but the way they clip to the mask isn't so I epoxied them in place. The fan kept cutting out and it was only just strong enough to prevent fogging so I removed the internal structure of the filter and inserted a CPU cooling fan. This runs off a NiMH battery in a shirt pocket. This was a bit of overkill, but definitely no fogging issue now. There is a bit of a noise issue The mask just would not sit right so I added padding to the top of the mask. This also means that when worn with a hood or helmet air is blown over the top of your head due to the fan upgrade.

On the plus side, there is proof that getting hit in the breasts makes them bigger. Just ask the German army! http://www.theguardian.com/education/2013/jul/29/german-soldiers-develop-enlarged-breasts

Best protection is heavy loose clothing as it absorbs the impact. http://www.meanandgreen.com/army/Dutch_Army/WW2_Style_Dutch_Battledress_Jacket/2180/2952.html Wool is heavy and battledress is very loose around the chest area. The dutch stuff is cheap and tends to be too small for most men. Would look good with a sten Loose woolen clothing will allow you to feel the movement of the cloth as it's hit as well as hear the hit. You rarely feel the hit itself. For added protection, put stuff in the pockets.

I have no problem with people depicting combat units of any nation from WW2. The SS dress uniform however is not a combat uniform and is designed as a political statement. There are many great looking WW2 German uniforms that you could have chosen that would show respect for the millions of Germans who died and were also victims of Naziism and the war that was forced upon them by their government. DAK, gebirgsjager, fallschirmjager and even the SS combat uniform would be fine in my book.

I tested an M04 gas mask and the lens does get shot out easily. The simple solution is to put epoxy glue around the inside edge of the lens.

Tape or elasticated arm bands are common. An indoor site near me uses white sashes for one team as this allows for games where you might change sides at respawn easily. In CQB it does tend to be more a case of shoot anyone facing the wrong way. WW2 games are good, it's all about the uniforms and helmet shape tends to be the key identifier.

If you fancy something a little different: http://www.taiwangun.com/en/sub-machine-guns/agm-058?from=listing&campaign-id=19 They are superb little guns with very good range but lack a semi auto function so a sidearm may be needed where there are single shot only areas. In terms of sturdiness, if you drop it, you are more likely to break your toes as it is steel.

I would suggest starting with an AEG rather than a sniper rifle. For cheap clothing and boots, look at britishmilitarysurplus.co.uk

No. Persuading your Mum to play would also work. The OP however mentioned his Dad would buy the gun.

Get your dad UKARA registered, then you won't need the gun 2-toned. Plus he might enjoy it, then you can share a selection of guns between you. With UKARA you can import weapons from somewhere like taiwangun.com http://www.taiwangun.com/en/sub-machine-guns/agm-058?from=listing&campaign-id=19 Sten's are great if you want something different from everyone else that is accurate at good range. http://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric-air-soft-guns/cm-028s?from=listing&campaign-id=19 The Cyma 028 range of AK's has a good reputation. http://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric-air-soft-guns/608-jg?from=listing&campaign-id=19 JG G36's are pretty good reliable guns.

Looks like an okay rifle. Ideal if you want to do a vietnam loadout, not great if you want to look more modern. It's also rather long for any CQB. There are better rifles out there for less money if you want to customise. Consider a G&G combat machine M4.

With MP5's most are very similar. ICS, G&G or TM make the only MP5's that are anything special. ICS make various models varying from bog standard to fancy guns with 3 round burst. G&G do a combat machine version, which is very good or top tech models which are awesome. TM MP5's are the same design as all the other cheap clones but are just quality. Bear in mind that ICS MP5's have a reputation for being selective in which mags they will work with, so you will need to either buy ICS mags or gamble when buying cheaper magazines.

Barrel length does not affect range. Once a BB has travelled down the barrel far enough to reach it's maximum velocity and to stabilise, any extra barrel length makes no difference. In a real gun this length is quite long due to the explosive gasses, in an airsoft gun you only need a surprisingly short barrel. The barrels on my Sten and Owen guns are shorter than on an MP5 and they are both capable of very good range and accuracy. If you have changed the hop and the problem persists, check the barrel. If it had a cracked gearbox, there has obviously been some sort of stress on the gears. If this was caused by a blockage in the barrel it may have resulted in some damage. If the barrel is not straight of has been scratched by an unjamming rod, this may result in bad accuracy and range. And yes, you should ideally use 0.25's

An old worn out spring will be shorter as that is why it is worn out.

If it's the noise that is the issue, some guns due to their structure do sound different. In my experience metal bodied guns sound different to plastic bodied. I currently have 2 guns I use; An ASG sten mk2 and a custom made owen gun. The Owen gun has mk2 sten internals but sounds very different to the sten. The Sten incidentally sounds more gun like as the sound of the piston is much louder than the sound of the motor, probably due to the tubular body. The Owen also has the tubular body but the steel is heavier duty making the sound deeper and masking the motor sound a bit better. You could try one of the G&G guns with blowback which will add some additional sound to each shot as the ejection port opens and closes. Otherwise try guns where the motor is not in the handle (M14, Sten etc.) which will help deaden the motor sound.

Air behaves differently to propane when pressurised. Propane under pressure becomes a liquid so that the gas above the liquid stays at the same pressure, replenished by liguid vaporising to add more gas. If you fill a mag with air, it will not liquify so each shot will have less power then the one before. The only way to get HPA to work is by having a tank with a regulator.

If you want a gun that has exceptional range for less than £160, there are a few but none of them are M4's. Your best bet is to switch to heavier ammo and make sure the hop is well adjusted. This is both the most effective and easiest solution if you are being out ranged a lot. M4's tend to have a less securely held hop unit, once you open the gun up you can just pull the hop unit and inner barrel out. This is the same with a majority of guns. It is the hop unit that determines the accurate range of your gun so the handful of guns that have securely held hop units tend to be the ones with that extra bit of reach. M14's are one of these so if you really want a gun for less than £160 that will outrange most people, Monty's suggestion of a CYMA M14 is a good one. The ASG Sten is the only other gun I can think of that can compete with an M14 for less than £160.

I also wear glasses. I eventually gave up on clear lensed goggles as fogging was such a problem. If the goggles don't fog then your glasses do and it can take a lot of trial and error to find something that works for you. Mesh goggles are best for reducing fogging but suffer other problems. In very sunny weather you can sometimes get reflection off every hole in the mesh so you get hundreds of bright dots in front of your eyes. In wet weather rain drops tend to sit in the holes in the mesh. I guess that fan goggles or prescription inserts may be the best solution but I hate the idea of spending that sort of money because if it doesn't work then it's a sizable chunk of cash down the drain. I have however ended up with a really good solution by accident. As I tend to wear WW2 Australian kit for airsoft, the hat keeps the rain and sun off my goggles and I made my own mesh goggles out of some retro motorbike goggles and some steel mesh. They look great and the foam padding on the back of the goggles fits well around the legs of my glasses. Home made goggles are not recommended but I tested mine and I am happy that they are safe.

Yes. It's not a local site for me but I have been to a couple of WW2 games there and it is a really good site.

The most likely problem is Kharma caused by the fact that you are telling everyone you have an SLR If you take the motor out does it spin freely when you pull the trigger? If yes then the problem is likely to be in the gearbox. Look at youtube vids of people dismantling gearboxes and decide whether it is something you can do.

Actually some of the SL8's look quite cool and I imagine the G36 is a relatively easy gun to work on internally. http://www.taiwangun.com/en/sniper-rifles/608-sl84-jg?from=listing&campaign-id=19 I personally have never liked the look of the EBR. I guess each to their own.

If I was going to build a DMR, I would start with a cheaper but decent rifle as you're going to be upgrading the internals anyway. Something like a Cyma M14 maybe? this will not break the bank and will leave you plenty of money for upgrades.

for british gear http://www.britishmilitarysurplus.co.uk/

Strobes only blind you by not allowing your eyes to adjust to light levels. It's totally safe, but if you want to level the playing field a little, tell a marshall you get flicker sensitive epilepsy There are some other dirty tricks you can use in dark environments. Take a spare torch and prop it up on something pointed at a doorway and then hide in the shadows, then shoot everyone as they come in the door and shoot at a non-existent player.

For airsoft most people go for some sort of plate carrier because they look cool. If you want to carry more than a few mags, webbing is going to be more practical. You could use a plate carrier and small backpack but you will find that webbing will keep your center of mass lower, making it easier to carry the same weight. The two easiest types of webbing to get hold of are PLCE and P58. Pattern 58 was worn up until the late 80's so is still fairly abundant but is heavy duty canvas construction so will weigh more than PLCE but you can get a set for £10. As a WW2 airsofter and re-enactor, my personal preference is for Pattern 37 webbing: The main advantage of P37 webbing is that it has 2 big pouches on the chest rather than pouches all around your waist. The backpack hooks onto the pouches so that it becomes part of the webbing as a whole to distribute weight better. This is the small pack, there is an alternative large pack which attaches the same way and has additional straps crossing over the pack so that you can strap additional gear to the outside.