Russe11

Woot, found someone willing to make this for me It's a guy from the WW2 airsoft forums, he's done a lot of other custom jobs. Might be going for a P90 hop up to save hassle with moving the feed direction. Anyone got knowledge of P90 hop ups?

I play warthunder. Just got the Canberra, its hilarious. Bombing runs at 900Km/h with FW190's trying to catch you

could you not have just used 144a gas?

Do any mosfets allow the addition of an electronic fire selector? My Sten is full auto only but I currently use a burst wizard so that I can set single shot only or 3 round burst. I am currently weighing up the option of buying a second Sten to convert into an Owen gun. The Owen has a fire selector but it would be a nightmare to make it work mechanically with a gearbox not designed for a fire selector in that location. Is there a mosfet that would allow me to add a switch to go from one preset to another? Alternatively, would it work to use a switch to bypass a burst wizard, thus allowing full auto or not bypass it thus making the gun semi auto?

Sounds like a S.T.A.L.K.E.R. loadout, theres a whole thread of people doing that. I do WW2 stuff, British, British airborne, Aussie (early war, late war and mid war).

The metal tubing of the main body of the Sten would need to be replaced as the cutout for the cocking handle is different. You can currently fit a lipo in the back section of the Sten tubing so the Owen would fit one here. This is an M14 gearbox, the Sten uses a simplified version of it: All the space above the motor is empty.

I really want an Owen gun. The chances of anyone making a commercial Owen gun AEG are approximately nil. It's an Australian weapon and Australia doesn't allow airsoft, so the market for it would be approximately...me. At 1st, the weird shape is an intimidating prospect, but in actual fact, it's pretty much the same as a Sten with the trigger moved forward and the magwell rotated to be vertical. I even found this site http://grabcad.com/library/owen-gun-mark-1-1943 where someone has created CAD files. All I need now, is someone who can do a bit of metalwork and who knows their way around an airsoft gun.

There are pro's and cons to all sling types. It will depend a lot on the weapon and play style, which is best. Single point slings work well with shorter guns such as an MP5 or short M4 in CQB as they hold the gun vertically on the chest and allow easy transition from one hand to the other. 2 point slings can be a PITA but work best when you won't be switching hands or where you only use the sling when walking to the safe zone etc. 3 point slings are more versatile but will take some practice. It may be just me, but I am stuck with 2 point slings for my WW2 guns and I just do not find them very helpful at all, they just get in the way all the time.

See if your uni has an airsoft club or society. If it doesn't then go and try a local site out using a hire gun. If it still appeals, start an airsoft club,

The Hill, Dundee has to be worth a look. It's Shootandscoot's site. http://www.shootandscoot.co.uk/the-hill/ A lot of sites in that area are big on WW2 airsoft, only The Hill has ever done WW1 airsoft.

For £300 I could build a whole WW2 loadout. No way I would pay that for a Molle vest.

See what it chrono's at next time you go. If it's over 340, I wouldn't bother changing the spring. To increase rate of fire, the easy way is to install a mosfet and use a higher power battery such as an 11.1V LiPo

Quite clearly the cat is protecting its eyes by sitting on the gun so no-one can use it. <---is this the eventual plan?

370fps will be too hot for almost every site. 350fps is usually the limit.

http://www.britishmilitarysurplus.co.uk/shop/footwear.html Good place for surplus footwear and other stuff.

People will let you hold their guns though. Try a few and look at the following: -Are the iron sights easy to use (you never see people check this but its really important) -Does it feel comfortable to hold -Does it look cool (most important thing really) This will help you choose a type of gun that suits you. Then ask about who makes the best one to decide on a manufacturer. Most people seem to be set on getting an M4 before they even hold a gun. Try to be open minded, there are lots of styles of gun out there and you may find that something different suits better. Sometimes it's fun being the guy who has something different (I should know, I tend to turn up with a Sten and an SMLE ).

Check out britishmilitarysurplus.co.uk They do a great deal for shirt, trousers and smock in DPM or DDPM for £25 which is a good way to get a basic set of clothing. They also have boots at good prices. While you're at it, get a hat, scrim scarf or shemagh. You will also want gloves. The most painful places to get shot are Hands, head, ears and neck. With regard to load carrying, there are lots of options. Tactical vests tend to be very adjustable so you needn't worry about sizing. Webbing and Molle both allow customisation of which pouches you have. I personally prefer webbing to molle vests as it allows you to keep cooler and it doesn't stop you feeling hits. Most people go for a molle vest though 'cos they look cool and require less work to adjust them properly. I would suggest that starting out, you get something cheap in Tan or Olive drab. Black is very easy to spot in woodland but plain colours are easier to find cheap pouches for and will work with any new camo you decide to get.

For WW2 games, everyone tends to stay in period. So Chocolate for snacks and Spam and crackers (I tend to go with oatcakes) for lunch. Hopefully one day I will persuade a small group to join me in doing the Aussie impression so we can form an elite field Barbie unit. I just think it would be hilarious to have a group of Aussie's set up a BBQ in the middle of a battle

Correct helmet for this would be a Mk2 British para helmet with canvas chinstrap. http://www.sofmilitary.co.uk/mk2-airborne-paratrooper-helmet-product,12195

It occurs to me that this thread could turn into a cool game, where people post pictures of an unusual airsoft item and people try to work out what it's for. Or alternatively try to come up with the most far fetched explanation of what it's for

Mixing camo's tends to look quite good. Camo patterns are by definition, designed to blend in. Before I switched to using webbing, I used a US woodland vest with DPM and no-one would have noticed it was even a different camo. What I would point out though is that exotic camo patterns tend to be more expensive and when you want extra molle pouches for some new toy, they are harder to find. Then there is the issue of what to do when you join a team with massively different camo or you just fancy a change. For these reasons the sensible choices for expensive plate carriers, that you don't want to buy again is Olive drab or Coyote brown. It will still look cool, but will continue to look cool with any other camo you decide to get down the road.

Can we change the name from Xmas event to TURKEY SHOOT!

<--possible cheap loadout suggestion to lighten the mood