Lozart

I hate to break it to you but RPB Industries do not make airsoft replicas. They are a licenced manufacturer of the real firearms.

More by luck than judgement I'd wager!

They're a great idea but I have to say that a £30 pair of goggles glued onto a £10 mask with a tiny wee fan lashed into the top of the frame for £100 seems a bit steep to me. I get the whole "development costs" and "if it's that easy, do it yourself" but still...

As you correctly surmise there are two problems most of us face. One is actual fogging caused by temperature differences between your face and the ambient air, the other is caused by sweat (although the two do go somewhat hand in hand) In terms of what you have there the issue is that while the design of the goggles is such that it has an enormous vent all the way around, you have blocked that airflow with the helmet at the top and the mask at the bottom. It's not just you, it's the way of the world! You may find a better helmet has better airflow - depending on the liner design and whether or not the shell has vents. Personally I am a fan of the FMA Team Wendy LTP Bump style.

I'm guessing you've not seen the inside of a Cyma or JG recently then? For reference this is a JG G3, tried it, wanted to fit a better motor as the rate of fire was woeful. When I saw the gobs of horrible brown shite all over the motor shaft when I took it out I decided to open the gearbox and was greeted with the enormous amount of sticky, nasty crap you see here:

You sound about as sweaty as me! I tried a set of revisions with the dual pane lenses and they lasted all of one game before I went back to mesh. Yes, you need @heroshark in your life.

All the issues you have highlighted are nowhere near as bad or as common as they used to be though. You are correct that a well built gearbox will reduce stress on the standard parts but look at it like this - once you've taken out all the parts likely to contribute to poor performance, you've removed any of the stock parts liable to stress failure anyway so that becomes a moot point. If you're chasing performance then absolutely a well set up gearbox is important but performance isn't always compatible with reliability. It's absolutely worth having a gun serviced if only to clean out the earwax that some manufacturers use for grease, but that's not the same thing as sending it straight off for "upgrades", and it really should be something that owners ought to be able to do themselves.

And yet the Hera Arms abominations are everywhere

I'm going to resist the immediate temptation to reply "get fucked" and ask why you think anyone "should" stop playing?

I have a couple of CA MP5s, so far the Nuprol NP5 mags have been pretty good. Cyma ones feed but need a good slap to get them to latch into the mag catch. Same for the Mag ones. If you can get some Classic Army ones they would probably be the best bet.

That's what he's already got. It still uses a standard length cylinder instead of the elongated one in pretty much everyone elses SR25 models.

https://www.airsoftwholesaleuk.com/Wholesale-blog/li-ion-airsoft-batteries-showdown-oper8-vs-titan-power/ I'll just leave this here. It does state that the cells used in these Li-Ion airsoft packs are capable of up to 95A burst. The simple fact of the matter though is that there is plenty of people out there using these batteries that don't seem to be having any issues. Don't get me wrong, if mine all die in 6 months time I'll be happy to come forward and let everyone know but they certainly don't seem to be showing any adverse signs so far. I've definitely had LiPo packs puff up in less time!

I don't think there is on account of the trunion mounting on the Zenitco stocks. Literally trying to get a square peg into a round hole. You might be able to Macgyver something together with this though: https://www.ant-supplies.uk/rifle-accessories/ar-folding-stock-adapters.html If you can modify the hinge pin on the Zenitco maybe?

Have a Google for BCM Gunfighter Mlok. The real steel one is only about £25

What style of AK stock?

Yeah, 13.4 is pretty poor (it should be a minimum of 13.7 really). You could just swap out the outer barrel for a better one (Cyma do some good ones that don't cost much).

There's the ASG one too.

Do you have the box? As mentioned above, RPB make the real one. We would need to know who the airsoft one you have is made by

Something doesn't add up here. Bolt outer barrels are 14mm CCW threaded so if yours is smaller than that there's fuckery at play. Do you have a picture?

Every battery comes with risks. Thing is, be sensible. If you puncture or short ANY battery you can have a fire or an explosion. Can you rescue a deep discharged LiPo pack? Yes. Should you try and rescue a deep discharged LiPo pack? Probably not. Is a metal cased battery inherently less prone to mechanical damage than a soft pack? Yes, but it isn't impervious. If the outer metal casing of the cells is exposed you do run additional risk of shorts but if your battery is so badly handled as to expose that metal casing then you should be more careful with your batteries. Plus you can easily whack some electrical tape or heat shrink over it and you're back to square one. If you manage to peel back the outer sheath on a soft LiPo then you're in for a bad time. As for the whole "Li-Ion batteries only work in standard guns" thing? Yeah, that's bollocks. I run one in my MK12 DMR which has an M120 spring and an Infinity U22000K motor in it and it's absolutely fine. Will it work as well in an SSG1 with 45RPS? I don't know, I don't wear lycra, but the point is that not all batteries are the same. Pick the one that suits your application and get on with your life.

You need to bear in mind that the gearbox positions the hop unit in the right place to mate with the magazine. That gun is designed to work with the style of gearbox it cane with. Be that either a v2.5 (like all the other SR25s on the market) or a standard v2 with a proprietary hop unit and ridiculously long nozzle (like the G&G). Ares make an e2 M110 by the way. Except it's ludicrously expensive and, well...it's an Ares.

That's exactly the battery I use in my M4. Unless you have a spectacularly short battery lead, it should be plenty long enough to get the battery in and have the connectors at the back end.

I charge my Titan Li-Ion batteries with the same charger I use for my LiPos (Accucell S60). They're all basically the same chemistry at the end of the day, the bit that is a touch confusing is that when you get a Titan battery it has "CHARGE ONLY" on a label on the balance lead and "DISCHARGE ONLY" on a label on the main power connector. Thing is that my charger won't balance charge unless BOTH are connected. Hasn't burnt the house down yet though.

V3 won't fit in there.