Lozart

Every battery comes with risks. Thing is, be sensible. If you puncture or short ANY battery you can have a fire or an explosion. Can you rescue a deep discharged LiPo pack? Yes. Should you try and rescue a deep discharged LiPo pack? Probably not. Is a metal cased battery inherently less prone to mechanical damage than a soft pack? Yes, but it isn't impervious. If the outer metal casing of the cells is exposed you do run additional risk of shorts but if your battery is so badly handled as to expose that metal casing then you should be more careful with your batteries. Plus you can easily whack some electrical tape or heat shrink over it and you're back to square one. If you manage to peel back the outer sheath on a soft LiPo then you're in for a bad time. As for the whole "Li-Ion batteries only work in standard guns" thing? Yeah, that's bollocks. I run one in my MK12 DMR which has an M120 spring and an Infinity U22000K motor in it and it's absolutely fine. Will it work as well in an SSG1 with 45RPS? I don't know, I don't wear lycra, but the point is that not all batteries are the same. Pick the one that suits your application and get on with your life.

You need to bear in mind that the gearbox positions the hop unit in the right place to mate with the magazine. That gun is designed to work with the style of gearbox it cane with. Be that either a v2.5 (like all the other SR25s on the market) or a standard v2 with a proprietary hop unit and ridiculously long nozzle (like the G&G). Ares make an e2 M110 by the way. Except it's ludicrously expensive and, well...it's an Ares.

That's exactly the battery I use in my M4. Unless you have a spectacularly short battery lead, it should be plenty long enough to get the battery in and have the connectors at the back end.

I charge my Titan Li-Ion batteries with the same charger I use for my LiPos (Accucell S60). They're all basically the same chemistry at the end of the day, the bit that is a touch confusing is that when you get a Titan battery it has "CHARGE ONLY" on a label on the balance lead and "DISCHARGE ONLY" on a label on the main power connector. Thing is that my charger won't balance charge unless BOTH are connected. Hasn't burnt the house down yet though.

V3 won't fit in there.

As mentioned, ideally they should be put to a storage level but it isn't absolutely necessary. If you don't have a decent charger, get one.

Might be worth having a watch of this before you go headlong into your DMR build

If they're the Warrior pouches with the black, textured vinyl type lining, just ditch the bungee loops and run them as is. They'll be fine. Alternatively, get yourself some kydex inserts and shove them in your pouches. Job done.

These are worth a look https://www.wtfidea.com/air-tank-pouches/ In case you don't know them, WTF grew out of the paintball world into general tactical gear via airsoft so they know what they're doing. It's good gear, shipping from the US is pretty quick and not too expensive. Tactical Kit stock some of the more tacticool pieces they do but not the paintball/airsoft stuff.

I like M4s too (I have three). I just like baiting people that get upset when you dare suggest that their L119A2 is just an M4 in a fancy frock. Yours is very nice though (but if you do have a Bazooka that would be SO MUCH COOLER!!!!!)

Except you can't, because the Magnus effect in the case of airsoft BB's provides lift. It also produces increased turbulence in the BB's wake which contributes to drag which affects the terminal energy. Axial spin in rifled barrels increases range by the conservation of angular momentum which is a whole different kettle of ballistic fish.

Cheap as chips floor mats. Check your local DIY store for deals on multipacks of it. Just use the "back" side outwards (a lot of it will have diamond plate patterns embossed on).

I'm intrigued as to how that guys gun actually performs normally. I find that the 7.4v Titans I use work comparably to every other 7.4v LiPo I've used in the past. So far they've been in two of my M14s, my MK12 DMR (420FPS with an M120 spring) and my old G&G SCAR L. No problems with rate of fire or trigger response on any of them!

Nice M4.

Very little I should imagine. The "soldered together cans" is why the Titans only come in a few different form factors of course. I have four of them now but they've not been on the market quite long enough for personal experience of their claimed longevity but all I've done with them so far is charge them, use them and then chuck them in my kitbag (in a LiPo Safe bag - I'm not THAT mental).

My Allwin DCU G3 set has FINALLY arrived from Royal Tiger after 4 months (nothing to do with UPS mind). No pics yet as it's still in the bags but it looks GLORIOUS!

They're metal cased (effectively 18650 type cells joined together) so it's highly unlikely but never say never!

Lithium batteries - FAQ https://www.batterypowertips.com/difference-between-lithium-ion-lithium-polymer-batteries-faq/ I've been using Titan Power Li-Ion batteries for a while and there's some pro's and con's. Yes they last well, they have plenty of power and they don't puff up. They also hold their charge really well once they've been charged. However they do only come in a few form factors and sizes are limited by the construction.

Drop this guy a message on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294273163040?var=592925401510 I bought a couple of his - one for a contour camera and one for an M2 and they're really rather good. He does a custom size option if you tell him what you want!

They come with 1" adapter collars.

Talking of the other bits, I have a spare set of Vector Optics High scope rings that I don't need. I'm sure I could let them go for a reasonable price. https://www.vector-air.co.uk/product-page/vector-optics-30mm-picatinny-ris-high-scope-mounts-scot-54h these ones. £10 posted for you, brand new in the box and everything.

There's a good reason for that...

Be interesting to see what the differences are on the Warhead BASE vs an Infinity CNC. The price difference is down to £20 and the performance is (in theory at least) less than the standard motor.