Lozart

If it's that new, take/send it back. Getting a replacement latch will be hard if not impossible unless you can find a boneyard one to strip (I am - as ever - happy to be proven wrong of course).

What's it like inside? Is it divided, can it take velcro organisers? It does look like an actual useful size so I'm intrigued, especially as they've designed it to be roll up and stowable!

They do take PayPal. I've bought a few things from them and they've been absolutely fine. Their website does have a co.uk domain but it's not hard to work out that they're based in China!

You're dangerously close to breaking Life Rule No1 - don't be a dick. It's not on the person with photo sensitive epilepsy to "do their research" and avoid YOU, it's on YOU to do YOUR research and not use it when you're told not to. Likelihood is that they will check during the safety briefing and ban their use on the day if anyone says they have an issue with strobe lighting. Well, that's a budget then, isn't it? Night Evolution, Element, Aim-O copies of the M300 or M600 weapon light would be your best bet. Some versions come with a head that allows you to select strobe or constant and have built in mounts for picatinny rails.

It does look like it was made from an old gas mask satchel though.

You're not the only Glock hater!

Try and get the low profile G&P one if you can, it's better than the Laylax one! As mentioned, the sight line on the M14 is high. My SOCOM has this: Works really well, but then it IS designed for real steel shooting. Most M1A/M14 mounts for real rifles have to take into account leaving space for the spent brass to eject. The G&P low profile mount is a VERY good copy of the old ARMS 18 mount http://armsmounts.com/shop/mounts/a-r-m-s-18-m2114-scope-mount/ which is widely regarded as the best M14 scope mount. I have the G&P one and while it sits WAY lower than the one you have the sight line on an M14 is just high.

What's your budget? Pistol or rifle mounted?

G&P make some nice stuff but they have their quirks. A lot of their barrels are a tapered fit so standard aftermarket barrels won't fit and G&P parts (like the guns) are expensive. The LCT G3 itself is nice but lots of people have complained that the mags don't feed well (which is kind of essential) so as long as you're happy to do some DIY fixing that then yes. AK - LCT are nice Real Sword are nice, Cyma are great if you pick the right one. I had this one for a while https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/cyma-cm-045a-aks-74u and it was solid as a rock. @EvilMonkeewas on the right track with the distinction on model numbers but it's from CM040 up (not 35). Basically below that they're copies of TM designs which are technically fine but the ones from 40 up are copies of VFC designs which have far superior external detail and general construction. Gearbox is the same throughout and is generally pretty bombproof. P90. Well...yes. I love the P90, lots of people hate it. Not sure there are any that you would actually call "good" though. They all have feeding issues with midcap mags, they all have mushy as fuck triggers (apart from the new Krytac one but that has its own problems) but that's not entirely uncommon in bullpup designs.

Most brands have the odd lemon in their range. TM pistols are always considered a safe bet, but then the 1911's are a bit rubbish and the original M9's were bad. TM make generally good stuff, but as mentioned everyone else has pretty much caught up.

At this point I'd say try asking them. If they say no then it's up to you if you want to take it further. They might just say yes and it'll be a darn sight quicker than arguing the toss with us all here.

Come on then, give us a clue.

I doubt you'll have a leg to stand on. If it's not defective but it's been used then they can't resell it with a warranty so why should they take it back?

I used to do this kind of stuff for a living (many moons ago) and soldering is definitely a skill you can improve with practice. A temperature controlled iron is well worth it but get a decent one with enough wattage to solder the things you're trying to work with - 30W ish should do the job well. You want something that can heat the joint surfaces quickly enough that you're not going to get a "cold" joint but not so hot that you just melt everything! Lead free solder is fine as long as you use the right soldering tips and work at the right temperature. A solder sucker is worth it's weight in gold for those moments when you've been a bit cack handed and have to start again. Pre-tin the cable and connector before you start and get a decent blob of properly flowed solder on the connector. Hold the two together then apply some more heat with maybe a small bit of extra solder and away you go.

Looks good. I'd go a bit easy on the scratching though - the bit around the large thumbwheel looks a bit excessive to me. Most of these parts are hand tightened so you wouldn't expect tool marks really.

That's...not how batteries work. Chances are that the lower C battery is limiting the motors speed which is what the actual problem is. A battery will only supply either as much as it can or as much as the load requires. Running a battery at 100% isn't really the best route, addressing why the load is drawing too much current is a much better method. Fix the cause, not the symptom.

The Cyma gears are good for over 400FPS as they are! The only "reinforced" gears on the market are the Prometheus set which are a) horribly expensive and b) out of stock EVERYWHERE. SHS do a set, I've just had three sets delivered direct from China or if you can find the Nuprol V7 set they are the SHS ones rebadged. As I say though, the stock gears will be absolutely fine for a good while!

It's a bit more tricky than that, this is a good indication though:

Where is "here"? Can you not buy online and have something shipped?

First off, lay off the massive font. V7 gearboxes are somewhat different than V2/3. The cylinder head, piston head and gearset are all V7 specific. Some aftermarket cylinder heads have a shorter nozzle than the others so the air nozzle doesn't seal properly when the tappet plate is forward. The standard M14 uses a short shaft motor, the EBR uses a long shaft motor with the collar removed. Changing to a tight bore barrel will push the fps a fair bit but make sure you get the right barrel. The slots in the side to lock the hop unit in place are in a different place than on a V2/3 type hop unit so you need either an M14 specific barrel like the Prometheus EG M14 barrel or something with both sets of grooves like a zci.

Trip to specsavers due soon?

M21 rifles were usually converted from National Match rifles which have no fire selector and the cutout in the stock is filled in. The ones like you've shown look like the standard fire selector with the outer "handle" cut off flush and filled in. I'd suggest that could be your best route. Get a replacement selector and cut it off flush. Bit of paint, job done.

Show us your solder joints.

My immediate thoughts - you have a bad solder joint on your connections.

I was just going to suggest British Tactical! Good gear. The warrior placards are in stock at the link I posted. Or, y'know...Google.