Lozart

I'd say the CV joint stuff you've linked to is too heavy for an AEG gearbox, personally.

Or for those magical moments when you get the whole thing back together for the 98th (and final) time but suddenly realise you forgot to grease your gears - this: http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/grease/3-in-one-professional-white-lithium-grease-400ml

I'd go for this: http://www.abbeysupply.com/airsoft_gun_grease_lt2.html

No. Also High torque builds are for high FPS not high RoF. This is a mistake people seem to commonly make - one way to achieve a high RoF is to use a low ratioe gearset (13:1 or similar) and drive it with a high torque motor. This doesn't make it a high torque gearbox! You need higher torque gears AND motors if you're pulling a strong spring for high FPS but the down side of that is a reduced RoF.

If you get them spot on, they are spectacularly quiet. It's just really hard to get them spot on. I've tried (and failed) and went back to standard gears and a decent shim job.

Neoprene pads can help but don't "squish" as much as a sorbothane pad. They do however last a bit better so if you buy a cheap sorbothane pad (like the ones from Pro Airsoft) you should ALSO get a neoprene pad to glue over it in order to protect the sorbothane from damage. As cyrexx said though, a sorbo pad will reduce the effectiveness of an airbrake piston head so it's kind of an either/or not as well as.

Helical gears - normal gears have the teeth cut straight across the thickness of the gear wheel. Helical gears are cut at an angle so that when they mesh they have a greater surface area in contact. They're more usually associated with high torque gearsets in sniper rifles etc. To be honest, setting them up perfectly so they are silent is a MASSIVE pain in the arse, a well shimmed standard gearset should be almost as quiet and a lot easier to achieve. Grease - you need a lubricant sufficiently sticky to stay on the gears and not fling off, but with low coefficient of friction. Lithium grease always works well for me or standard Abbey CT2. Silicon is not really robust enough for gears, fine for piston runners though.

As you correctly suggest the main source of noise in an AEG is the piston impacting the head. Part and parcel of getting the best out of your gearbox though is correcting the AoE which would involve fitting a sorbothane pad http://airlab.parts/collections/gearbox-parts/products/sorbothane-pad-70d-hardness which will help reduce that noise. An airbrake piston head will also help but be aware that both mods WILL decrease your FPS as a side effect. Helical gears can help too but MUST be perfectly shimmed to be silent, otherwise they will sound like a tin of wasps.

That's the spirit!

Yeah, that's why I edited my post. Misunderstood your intent originally. This whole thing is turning into a bit of a pissing match though. Find the style you like, play it. There's no need to judge others for wanting to do a different thing.

Why does it have to matter how or why you do what you do? If someone takes what they do more seriously why are they wrong/right? We're all running around the woods with toy guns FFS.

"in battery" means the action is forward and the gun is ready to fire.

Good lord, no! Work somewhere that isn't air conditioned and upholstered? Are you mad?

To prepare for winter I....oh wait, I just play indoors.

I've used moscarts plenty of times. As long as you keep the seals lubed they work just fine. They have limited use in woodland but can be useful in CQB environments. The TAG rounds aren't actually allowed on most sites, the explosive ones a definite no-no too.

What he said. If you honestly think that this is beyond your abilities, take it to a shop and ask them to do it for you.

One man's excessive is another mans totally acceptable! If you can afford what you've bought without going hungry or into debt then personally I see no issue with the cost of your kit. Anyone that says otherwise is probably jealous (either of your disposable income or your gucci trousers).

Change the buffer tube or swap the pin from the original stock with the one in the ASG stock (if it will fit).

If the only protection in there is a fuse I would suggest you leave it in. Let's just say you fit a LiPo and the wiring in the gearbox wears against the side and shorts out. Do you want to blow a fuse or have your gun burst into flames?

'fraid so. There was an online petition started on FB to try and get Ares to start making them again but I have no idea how well that fared. I'm guessing that not enough people wanted them to make it worth making them anymore...

Now we're getting somewhere! Where are your guns deficiencies? What is your gun while we're at it?

Ah but I would wager the "other side" are willy waving about how accurate their loadout is...

Oh I agree with you there, the problem is that any given up grade will respond differently in almost every gun. There will be a general trend for sure (TBB will increase FPS for example) but direct comparisons are hard. For example - I needed to get my FPS down below 340 to use a gun at the Malls. M100 should be right but even an M90 pushes a couple of my guns over because I've also improved my airseal (nozzle, cylinder head, piston o-ring etc). In addition to that a combination of upgrades will change how a gun responds depending on how that particular combination works with the other component parts - the TBB you choose for an M16 won't respond the same as the same ID TBB on my M4 for example (as it has a 280mm long barrel). Maybe think about what you find a problem with your specific gun and ask if anyone has an idea to improve that aspect. And don't be offended if the answer is either "move closer" or "learn to shoot better"

To be fair it's largely irrelevant what other people say they reach; if you can hit what you're shooting at who cares what everyone elses range is?

http://www.uktactical.com/p-11169-crye-precision-combat-pants-gen-3-multicam.aspx Plenty of decent guns under £220...