sp00n

that's a bit of an unfair assessment, do allow me to explain :- G&G quality is really really good, very rarely do you hear of one going wrong, and so confident is G&G they offer a 2 year warranty, most other manufacturer offer a year. But like you say they are common, and there common for a reason, there good and they do work well, out of the box. i suppose i am a little bias, i do have a CM16, which i never opened until it was over 2 years old. it is a great gun. you could argue that TM plastics are better, but they at the least twice the price for not that much better (i own a TM MP5K too). i will grant you that TM hops are better, but not by much real world distance. don't get me wrong i am not saying that there perfect, but they are very consistent, very affordable, and they do what they say they are going to do, and they are easily up-gradable.

read this >>> http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ loads of info etc don't blow £400 on your first gun, you may see one you like better etc

Good luck getting a full setup for sub £300 Have a look here :- http://www.beestingairsoft.com

Not co2 or hpa for that matter, they are not effected by temperature (-5 I have seen co2 still work), as they are stored under pressure and not a liquid in airsoft use. Green gas/144a etc those are effected by temperature, as they are stored as a liquid in airsoft use. and going from a liquid to a gas is an endothermic reaction (requires heat/energy) etc

Just stick to the AA hop unit, Like proffink say a lot of AA stuff is old and expensive

It's a personal preference on upgrade path, have a read here :- http://www.airsoftsniperparts.com/upgrading-a- Or here :- http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/6075-advanced-vsr-sniper-building-guide.html My advice would be to go with an action army hop (and a good hop rubber, a TM one will be fine) unit first, as this lets you use your gun, and get some accuracy. Then do trigger/cylinder/Spring/piston/Spring guide/cylinder head all in one go Last of all if you wish, replace the barrel with a high quality item

The mk23 is the same as the ASG one >>>http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/23771-asg-mk23-socom/#entry193483

Well this is how I work out a guns worth (Current min price + mods + accessories) Multiply that value by the following 0.8 (rare gun as new condition) 0.75 (rare gun light usage running 0.6666 (common or easily available gun, running) 0.6 (common gun high usage) 0.55 or lower (common gun well used/hammered or non working common gun) There is a few other factors :- desirability etc or collectors items that exclude the above etc. Also age will reduce a guns worth. Also just because something is rare dose not necessarily mean it goes in the rare category above

i would advise zero one, as they do free two toning, are generally cheaper, and have a larger range etc

Well past Time for this country to leave Europe

Actually, it *might* be cheaper to hpa it, as you don't need to replace the following :- Trigger Cylinder Cylinder head Spring Spring guide Piston All you would need is the mancraft kit for a 45degree vsr, regulator and co2 adapter or a hpa tank etc

Novritsch is a great sniper, but man dose he over charge for bits (he uses/rebrands EDGI custom work parts) have a read here for a nice build guide (pure spring) http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/6075-advanced-vsr-sniper-building-guide.html or see proffrink for his HPA'ed vsr http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29031-vsr-sdik-build-n-ting/ i personally prefair HPA as its a shorter and far lighter pull, and you can just easily set/dial you FPS etc

been meaning to order some spares (edit :- and something is out of stock already )

YaY my new replacement TM VSR receiver is here apparently DPD deliver on a sunday

It's a scar isn't it?

Yeah I think there a rebranded/clone a&k, as the I found a bit of info on evike, saying there matrix svd was made by a&k, yet it comes in a b&w box lol

Can anyone recommend a decent svd scope

Just got myself a b&w svd dragunov for a very nice price now to find a PSO for it lol

There olive drab g-specs are really pretty, and they come with a free TM dummy/imitation 7.62mm round

i am only printing in PLA atm, its what my printer came with and i kinda bought a fair few rolls lol i would like to get a heated bed though and try other materials. never heard of plastidip before ... looks interesting

On average a flash hider above takes 3hours, but it dose depend on complexity etc My printer uses 1.75mm filement at £13.35 for a 1kg roll (off eBay, free delivery), no idea how much length wise that is, but I have not used a roll yet, there is probably enough for 1 more print left on the roll

Rather then just spam up the "what have you just bought" thread, figured i would start this thread insted so after 3d printing some LRB stuff for my VSR And making some silencer foam spacers i decided to have a go at an end cap for my L96 (left is the 3d printed one, right is the original one) Which then lead me to wonder if i could make a flash hider, using the PDI one for inspiration from left to right 1) original first try, realised i had missed the thinning on the top, and part of the under side 2) unfinished print, realised i had forgot the hole in the middle 3) included the hold, but there was a the top dimension wrong 4) finished print that i have not broken out of the support matterial, had another idea 5) Finished print, this one i like, easier simpler to make etc, but the cut outs do go quite high 6) finished print, the barrel hole is intentionally off set by 2mm to try and see if this would work as a LRB modded flash hider more to follow

I take it you don't have another battery to test? If that is right, at 8.4v it sounds like a nimh, which is what your charger is for. (You can normally spot a lipo battery easy as it has an extra connector etc)

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