Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies

Easiest option? Move closer! Harder option is delving into mods. I'm not 100% up to date with things due to both a dry spell in chairsofting and actual airsofting. Assuming you have G&G M4 you have a pretty decent gun to work with. 160 quid is good enough to get a very good performing gun. Gearbox work is pretty much inevitable sadly... Not much point having PDi barrels and r-hop if your still getting +/-15 FPS inconsistency. So here are my suggestions: O-ring nozzle Double O-ring cylinder head Polished cylinder AOE correction on Piston(Optional) Stretch O-ring on piston (Optional but recommended) Good lubrication on the cylinder,that's a given. Hop parts: You can either go for mad custom hop set ups,like R-hop,flat hop,etc.. but I would honestly say standard hop stuff is perfectly fine and there's nothing inherently wrong with it. R-hop will get you some fantastic range and accuracy but it requires a lot of work and tuning. Besides,you have rate of fire to make up for a lot of things. New barrel- Laylax,Madbull(Avoid the steel barrels,last I heard they had some QC issues. Coated aluminium ones are fine) and Lonex should be plenty fine. Don't go tighter than 6.03 unless you want more power. 6.05 is pretty popular. For hop up units and buckings I'm sadly far out of date. G&G green stock ones are fine in my experience. Laylax purple have QC issues but are good. Lonex are popular too but that's it really. For units,again,G&G make some of the better stock ones. Lonex make good aftermarket ones and I've heard good things about SHS.

While I'm not 100% sure on vandalism,since BPA's not an airsoft exclusive site,we do have a problem with people dumping random stuff. Broken down/Written off cars,random crap. One time someone dumped a drum set and some perfectly fine couches for us to use which is nice.

Most BBs are rebrand really. I think I heard once that there's only 8-10 big companies making our ammo,with about 6 of them being in China and the rest in Taiwan or Japan. Can't personally say how true that is,but it sounds pretty plausible.

I'm using Nuprol non tracer .28s,perfect so far. Using them in cheap ASG speedloaders(The ones you usually get with double eagle tri-shots) and no problems. They fly better than the ASG blasters I usually use. Please note I'm using a VSR which usually feeds anything from freeze dried peas. I purchased mine in April or May I think,newer batch anyway. No problems with feeding. Cons are that they smell foul. Noxious burnt plastic like smell. The feeding issues in AEGs could stem from the fact that they're polished differently and aren't near as slick or greasy as other makes,meaning they might get jammed up in mags or hop feeding tubes. On the plus side for spring rifles,they don't leave as much crap behind on the bucking and barrel.

Set of JG BAR10 Iron sights from TeddyBhoy. Only for the P&P,8.50 GBP. Sound af. Something to fill the space between my high scope mounts and rail,and something to aim with in dense forests or night time where there is not enough light for my scope. What's best to paint them with for night usage? I have some UV paint (Got it with a security pack for bike insurance) but I somehow doubt it'll have much use on sights.

yeah boiii time for a necro Sewn and ironed the neck cover on the hood of my jacket. When worn it forms closely to the neck and covers the zipper/pouch area where the hood would normally be folded. The thick canvas of the hood is attached to elastic,and stretches to fit,hence why I only badly attached it to 3 points I found it always soaked through this area in heavy rain but I think this should stop it now. Downside is the hood is now permanently folded out,but I never fold it into the collar anyway.

Marui Gspec, ''One Joule'' build. 330FPS,just on the legal limit. Laylax Piston and Laylax 100 Spring,everything else in the cylinder is stock,no real point in changing anything in my situation. Cheap SHS sear set.Nothing amazing but it works. Hop- ''Custom'' hop up arm,filled the stock one with epoxid,and shaped it to copy the dangerwerx ones. PDi W-hold bucking,and stock barrel. but polished to a mirror finish,like the cylinder. Use .28s and .32s usually. Joule creeps constantly,hilariously over volumed. Been a while since i checked the numbers but it was spitting out .30s at 1.25J~ish. Right now I'm using Nuprol .28s which have pleasantly surprised me.Have not had feeding issues with them yet,and they're easy for me to see. Performance- Good enough. 50-ish meters and ''It will deffo hit'' accuracy. I usually like to get up close and go mad minute bolting anyway. Wanting to get a smaller optic,like a red dot. local shop has NC star Gen 2 DP red dot sights for 25 quid,good idea? http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/n-arxsrf/n3wox/products/8544/images/11537/DPTV2___25113.1421530239.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

We call it 'Strikeball' (Страйкбол) here in the slavlands (Pronounced 'Strajk-boll' ,with a soft j and a) Sounds a bit manlier

picked these up just now. Absoloute hell cycling to the othet end of Lviv in 35 degree heat. Not the only ones,others were for m8s and not airsoft releated. Cost about 10 UAH for production,and 10 UAH for the velcro. About 80 cents per patch,as they already had the vectors for them

Hah,so did I Even the best get lemons it seems. Maybe it was one batch where they miffed the Trigger pull screw positions or just didn't bother test firing them. OP,I assume you've been adjusting trigger pull and stroke? On the adjustment window,the trigger should be holding up the trigger sear,but not be perfectly flat,but slightly at an angle so the squared off bit should be contacting the sear. Trial and error won't do any harm

Unfortunately Cheap and Russian helmet do not go together. Replicas are 200-300,you can get them for 100 if you are luckt and real ones aren't even worth mentioning. Honestly I don't think you'd find a better priced one than the one lafta posted. Other option- Get some fiberglass,and make one on your own and try find the mask separate. Or make a simpler mask as found on some other soviet helmets with just a steel plate and a slit.

No,it uses the same slider adjustment mech which isn't too fantastic as it can flex and cause uneven pressure on the arm. You can do the 'Top Dead center mod' in which you drill your outer barrel right above the arm and use a screw the adjust it. Bit tricky and easy to mess up. Action army chamber has a different mechanism that adjusts the arm evenly unlike the stock one. The Type B arm's main draw is that it is more precisely made and the flat nub affects the rubber better

Yeah,that's the one I'm talking about. On the Barrel- I'd personally stick with 6.03 or 6.05 bore ones,since 6.01s don't leave a lot of room for error and can be hit or miss from the manufacturer,especially on slightly cheaper brands. AA barrels are perfectly fine though. Hop up chamber is a good upgrade,does not come with a rubber. However it is not 100% necessary. You can either keep the stock JG chamber and install a better hop up arm (Dangerwerx Typ or go for the chamber. Chamber is obviously a better upgrade but it all depends on you much you want to spend

Pdi W hold is good but don't expect it to lift anything heavier than .30s,even at 380 FPS I struggled to get it to lift it straight. (NB- It might be my hop setup,but a lad I know here in Ukraine was also running a similar VSR hop as I am, only at 450 FPS,also had issues lifting heavy ammo) From what I vaguely remember about what parts am bestest,the Action army hop up chamber has gotten rave reviews and a lot of people vouch for the Maple leaf bucking,firefly bucking is also good. Action army parts have gotten very good recently,much cheaper and equal quality to laylax analogs. Avoid PDi hop chambers as they're a bitch to tune properly. Also check out PDi barrels,get them cheapest from Xfire.org. They're largely said to be the best of the best,especially their tightbores. Stock trigger system on VSRs isn't worth keeping unless you're restricted to 1J builds. Action army trigger is good. Remember you need a 90* piston too but most triggers come bundled with one,at least AA and Laylax do.

ATACS-FG boonie. Made in Ukraine by company ''Tornado''. Purchased from ''Symvolika'' shop in Lviv. A-tacs has really grown on me and it's pretty neutral and decent for casual use,the heat here is insane(Close to 40 degrees) 135 UAH, about 4 pounds sterling. Not bad

TM Sling mounts are awful too. The screw is made of steel,but the rest is made of extremely flimsy zinc. Screwing them into the stock usually strips the stock threads and mine broke pretty quickly. TM's stock hop is cast better,so the arm doesn't move around much,but the adjustment mech design still applies uneven pressure no matter who makes it. TM has a very good hop up rubber,and screws are better quality. The newer TM VSRs have crimped cylinders so they're a PITA to upgrade since you need to buy a new cylinder,head and guts too which can add up to 100 pounds more in upgrade expenses. That's the JG's main pro now.

I'm currently awaiting the patch shop here in Lviv to open up after summer break,So I only have the basic designs. I'm also making band patches for mates but here are the ones I'm making for myself. Stalker patches- Loners,Freedom. And some political humor- Viktor Yanukovich,previous president who ran away,had a zoo with ostriches on his huge private estate,and in a recent BBC interview,stated that ''they just lived there'' and he simply ''supported'' them. The wild Ukrainian ostrich is known to be an adidas clad gopnik of course.

I'm not sure if they changed anything and I have not kept up to date,but they had some pretty bad reliability issues,especially with the drive train. The gears were very poor,got chewed up really easily and the whole gun liked to shake apart internally. They might have remedied the issues with newer ones,again,I have no idea. Can;t guarantee they will give you an edge in combat but they should be an absolute blast to shoot since the recoil is pretty heavy. honestly,the recoil is the main draw of it,performance wise they're just like 90% of stock AEGs. if you want a recoil rifle without reliability issues then the KWA and Marui ones are better bets,but more pricey. If you want a nice reliable rifle G&G are the way to go.

Sniper/bolt action rifles are a useless bollocks 60% of the time

Since you have the CYMA I'd recommend doing basic reliability mods first,mainly compression since you want good range. Do note that range upgrades and accuracy upgrades go hand in hand,unless we're talking about how far you can overhop your round to space. Dual O ring cylinder head,Oring nozzle,AOE correction,shimming,etc.. Polishing your cylinder is also a good idea. Grease it up well too. For a barrel PDi is the best,but Laylax will feel the same since you will be firing with bursts and not single shot,it really depends on how much you want to spend. With buckings,Maple leaf is good. PDi W hold is good too but has trouble lifting heavier rounds. G&G green is what i generally use since it's cheap and good. Stock CYMA hop unit should be fine. You can do flat hop,G-Hop or R-hop,I can only say that G-hop isn;t super hard and works well if you use good bucking,G&G's ones are good for this in my experience again since my old craft knife liked them more Honestly I'm out of the loop tech wise since I've reduced chairsofting by a fair bit.

I'd be wary with those G&P mags. They're generally regarded as complete cack,I've had one that constantly double fed- The system the VSR uses is not suitable for a dual stack as it's all too dependent on pressure on the mag BB release by the feed nub on the hop chamber,too much will cause misfeeds and spills,while too little will not feed at all. I'm sure you can mess with adding or removing material on the nub in the chamber,I never bothered and just spent a little extra on TM mags which feed and fit flawlessly,part of buying a boltie is the whole guaranteed feeding.

You and Black Death should get on well http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/user/5169-black-death/ (Check out some of his pics-Makes a Scar-H look like a compact M4!)