Rock-climby-Dave

So, the cost of patches, lets assume a fiver per patch: 2 shoulders, front, back, hat/helemet = £25 which someone can still completely ignore. for a fiver more you can change your name by deedpoll to 'oiyou *keep your last name*' and it;ll be right every time + it will be usable in everyday life. I tend to find people whom you have never met before aren't that offended if you ask their name or just get their attention by throwing a stick at them and THEN asking their name.

106.6m/s is 350fps The reason sites are very strict with the 350 'limit' is that it isn't actually the limit. The limit is 328 (1 joule with a .20 gram) +5% variance for chrono error and genuine gun fluctuations gives 348? (or thereabouts) But 348 is a stupid number, so it's rounded to 350. It's the variance and the rounding up that gives the player the benefit of the doubt as to being able to use the gun on site, so when you chrono at 351fps and say 'but it's only 1 fps over' you're actually 23 over...

I prefer the XDm to the PX4, but both perform very very similarly, purely down to the feel of the pistol. >Running a TM on Propane >Expecting no problems Seriously though, any modern Double stacking magazine marui pistol always performs great, just don't go stupid with the gas

The ares Amoeba series all have it, some need the box removing from the receiver to take the spring guide out though. loads of APS stuff The Umarex branded H&K G36/UMP in both sportline and proline Some P90s ICS SA80 series (but the mag is in the wrong place, so you don't want that) A&K/CA M249s ICS M4s with the split gearbox are probably as QUICK to change as the fiddlier guns in the amoeba series, but do mean taking the upper apart. WE Katana series, plus all PTWs have a quick change upper and readily avalable replacements of varying powers. Some unique gearboxed guns have it too (BAR comes to mind)

I wouldn't say Ares stuff fails more often than the equivalent priced G&G/CYMA/JG The Amoeba series are fantastic, the parts ARE supported in the UK by the distributor for about a month after purchase. Basically, If you want something you can buy and LEAVE IT WELL THE FUCK ALONE get an Amoeba/vz.58 The gearsets are really the only thing letting the gun down these days, but the only reason they ever break is user error. The guns DO NOT take an 11.1V LiPo, this shreds the teeth off 2/3 gears consistently. The barrels are tight, so shitty BBs WILL cause a jam, then the gears shred as a result of that. TBH, I think of all of the Amoebas we've sold since they swapped to using the Blue MOSFET units (many, many guns) We had one back whose piston head had fallen off.

The HB gearset needs a magnet in it to work the cut off,

The TM, DE, ASG, whatever other brand of tri-burst spring shotty are all identical. Again, add one to the pile of people who've never had a problem with a double eagle version Think of it this way: TM shotty + 6 shells = £200 DE shotty + 30 shells + another DE shotty if you're that paranoid about it breaking = £200 Assumption there is a shotty is £60 a piece, shells are £15 for 6. I know where my money is.

Burnley have a very active club, the Grange do AIPSC and (as mentioned) Halo Mill - where I shoot. A TM Hi Capa 5.1 is the place to start at and can very quickly (funds allowing) become rather silly: That one cost me a bit

'timing' isn't really a big thing. Just put the gearbox back together with the sector gear currently not engaging the piston and you'll be fine, it resets itself after that by design. Shimming is the act of making the gears not wobble, but also the faces not touch each other. should still spin freely. Start with the spur gear and you'll be fine.

the C rating is the discharge rate of the battery - higer C rating is essentially more current being dumped over the motor at once 15C is low end 25C is a good rating, most people don't need more than that. Some with 30C are just getting silly.

yeah, on the part that runs along the barrel with 2 screws +1 into the hop chamber, it's from the under side of that, should have a small detent aswell. I still use the standard TM arm on a PDI 6.03 barrel with a madbull Red VSR Rubber at 460fps and can easily over-hop a .43 (we're talking leaves the barrel and goes into orbit 'over hop') So no need to stick in a fancy arm.

Don't learn with a cheap gearbox. I do nothing but work on gearboxes day in day out and I still struggle to get a shitty CYMA V2 back together sometimes. Anything remotely well made (even the G&G Combat machines) will aid you so much with triggers and AR latches not actively trying to jump out. also, screwdriver as far into the spring guide as possible before splitting the case. Remeber, you aren't necessarily paying the person fixing it for the time spent on your gun, you are paying for the time AND tools AND knowledge of what could be wrong. It's that experience that costs. Proper airsoft teching is a very specialised skill set that you probably can't use or gain any way other than on a gearbox. also, learn how to solder properly aswell, You'd be surprised at how many people claim they can solder and it becomes apparent removing electrical tape (not heatshrink as it should be) that they cannot solder for toffee.

and lowe! the problem with the VCRA has been found. It's just a rubbish law, badly written and unenforceable. The problem is that any FAC holder can go and paint any of his rifles in whatever combination of colours that he chooses, including any of those that 'prove a gun isn't real' (essentially what that list of colours boils down to) and so if you held up a post office with a two tone real gun and someone didn't act as one would expect for being robbed at gunpoint, people are going to start getting actually shot. Not to mention that when confronted with a firearm, RIF or two tone a firearms officer WILL treat all 3 the same way. IE if you're brandishing it in a manner likely to cause concern for life, well, you'd best be wearing some thick ceramic plates!

funny you should mention it, I almost did earlier when I saw it. Realised the post is more stupid with comic sans in.... left it. just because you're on mobile. Maybe if my mobile doesn't have have comic sans I should use it more often

oh i did, just didn't want those who DIDN'T to get the wrong idea and go around chanting 'pistolzrbullpupzmmkay'

I would disagree: This specifies that the Action AND magazine (bit which houses dem boolits) are located behind the trigger group (set of components which release the hammer/striker) On the USP given, the trigger group sits behind the trigger and magazine (at the very back of the frame). If the trigger group is the MOST rearward unit then the firearm CANNOT POSSIBLY have the action or magazine behind it, surely? I would say that the argument given relies mostly on guesswork and a poor understanding of the actual mechanisms involved. That post makes me sound like I'm having a go, but I'm not. Just adding my 2P

I USED TO BELIEVE WHAT THEY SAID! Honestly. I used to be all over you can't snipe for cheap. http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-sniper-rifles/cyma-cm701b-vsr-bar-10-flat-black.htm#.VD1vlUBsIU0 It's got a decent trigger, nice bolt pull adn does 500 out of the box. I bought one with my own cash, put a 3-9x50 sight we got in the same day (£50) and with a bag of the .43 Welts (£16.99) went out and did well with it. The rifle is (honestly, not trying to sell stuff needlessly here) about 90-95% as good as my £900 TM VSR build straight out of the box. Yes, at the maximum range the shots do sometimes go a little out, but that's the £700 difference. You sometimes have to put 2/3 shots out to hit someone 90m away. Seems like a good deal to me. All of that will be under £200. It's a good base to start from for upgrades if anything DOES break (not sure on longevity yet, only used it for 1 game) EDIT: The sight I picked isn't on the website, but we do have them in stock - the same thing can be found on ebay for about £35-40 just any old 3-9x50 with sunshade.

You'll find most US companies won't ship beacuse of ITAR. Even if an item ISN'T restricted, so much gear IS that they just play it safe. Anywhere in the UK will be expensive, because UK shooters are anally pillaged on pricing for EVERYTHING. Might be an idea to try and find one in the EU? Easier imports and cheaper prices.

I'd have said it's more likely to be a loose connection than a safety thing. I'd definitely look at sending it back with the number of flaws it's got.

could be a couple of things: 1. Most likely is that the mag has cooled and essentially you've used up too much gas for the slide to cycle to the point where it can lock back. Nothing can really be done other than using a more powerful gas for this. ALL gas weapons are prone to this in some form or another. 2. The slide is worn on the back edge of the catch and it is slipping off the release. Check it works by putting an empty mag in and pulling the slide back. If it catches, it isn't this or cause no. 3 3. the mag follower is damaged, the left side of the mag has a cutout where part of the follower sticks through the side to push the slide catch on the frame up and into the way of the slide, casuing it to lock back.

Not sure if relevant, but replaced a customers plastic TM Glock 18 slide (which worked very well on WE gas) with a ACE1Arms Salient slide. It proceeded to work very well on exactly the same gas. The thing about airsoft is that there is a LOT of chairsofting and theoretical talk and very few people actually willing to go out and achieve or experiment with stuff. Theoretically the metal slide should perform 'worse' than a plastic slide, but often there are more factors to consider than just 'metal is heavy hurrrrrrrrrrrrr' (which, I admit, is a theory that I am a subscriber to)

Can't go wrong with some 95 Patt stuff! Boots, just use the hiking boots, you get much nicer boots for it usually. The standard boots aren't very waterproof and are heavy + Rub etcetcetc. They are objectively not good combat boots for airsofting. Eye pro is personal, some guys use stuff that they can't get to steam up, but on other people the same specs go cloudy instantly. Try as many different pairs on as possible, and try to avoid mesh. The gun is my specialty though, and I'll point out for fairness sake that I DO work for Patrol Base as the technician. I would have the amoeba out of those 3. I've been in loads of all 3 gearboxes and the ares is by far the most solid internally. The only issues we've had have been: 1. People using crap BBs and getting a jam then trying to spin the gearbox again and stripping teeth. 2. we've had maybe 3 broken tappet plates having sold (literally) hundreds of the units. 3. The bushing on the bevel gears used to wear out very quickly. Ares seem to have remedied this by putting bearings on the bevel gear, just make sure before hammering the rifle and replace the whole set to bearings if you can. 4. The mosfets have burnt out when people have jammed the gearboxes as above and caused a surge of power to the motor. Also caused by people getting + and - mixed up on the wires. None of the improved Blue mosfets have been faulty/broken yet. The cymas gearboxes are the standard affair, nothing to write home about, but certainly very solidly built. The G&Gs are to be honest, lackluster at best. I know people like them for starter rifles, but if you have the money to get something else - do so. The gears are a cheap alloy and the pistons are cheap, copper bushings wear out quick and are awkward to replace.

Hey, there's nothing wrong with a girls car. Observe: 'Nice Impreza. But I have to ask, who are you trying to attract?' and also, Do you live in the middle of bumfucknowhere, how the hell is your insurance that low?

Umarex are NOT a manufacturer, neither are ASG on any of their other products. Both companies just rebrand stuff and TBH, I would be more than comfortable taking almost any of either companies guns out to play with. Almost all horror stories you see with airsoft guns are caused by users simply not knowing what they are doing or just abusing the kit outright. Edit: forgot to add some stuff: Having been inside the scorpions I would NOT buy one. Nor would I be overly happy if someone bought one for me or I won it. Out of the box they are shimmed WAYYYY too tight and have no grease inside the 'box. Not to mention having seen a couple of gear failures. I mean, come on ASG. You could at least fit the Ultimate gearsets, rather than making some cheap cast powder shite.