Rock-climby-Dave

and then you apply for your FAC and end up just doing shooting and not airsofting for months, like what I gone and done.

yup, I'll be shooting the Euros (redwolf comp) this year, £50 entry fee £113 travelodge £40 getting there.(anyone else shooting it? I'll be in the HALOMILL colours with my name all over the back) Chance to win the title? Totally worth it. (I don't think I'll win euro-champion, but I'm hoping for top 10-15 in standard) As for practical shooting in general, there are plenty of ranges (and more and more of them) offering Practical shotgun and mini-rifle (practical rifle with .22lr semi autos as we can't have centrefire semi-autos )

Just checked on the actionair forum and someone asked this question back in January. There is still no reply, so I think you might be out of luck for a local club Have a look at any local real steel clubs or if you're the south end of durham, HALO MILL may well be the closest club down here in Huddersfield

£500 isn't a lot for a race pistol... Mine's worth about £1000, between about 5 of us at HALO we have maybe £7-8K worth of pistols. You don't have to spend that though, some of the other guys do fine with the £200 ones from mike Distances you engage at are typically 0-7m and you'd be surprised how much you can miss by even with your barrel jammed through a target

I shoot it (pretty well, If I say so myself) I (and everyone else who competes to any level) use a modified TM Hi-capa Where are you based? There are a few clubs around, not usually attached to anything else airsoft related

Why would you go to the effort of making a salient slide kit and then include a silver barrel? WHO ARE THESE PEOPLE!?

yeah, on hi capas you can remove any pre-travel, make the trigger super smooth with a nice clean breaking point, all within a very short travel distance. Mine, for example (and it is pretty stock trigger) is about 1mm of pre-travel, 2mm trigger pull, 0 distance on over-pull and then back with a 2mm reset Thanks to the way the trigger activation bar is set up in a sig or M9 with a much longer trigger lever below the rotation point than the lever above it for the transfer bar, you simply can't make the triggers that short. Basically, only those who actually shoot pistols competitively spend enough money on them to make it a worthwhile proposal to machine a bunch of slides/frames for pistols that they actually use Competitive shooters only shoot pistols that are good. Thus: You can't have a nice salient slide on your sig because the trigger is shit.

everyone that skirmishes just wants a 'normal' pistol. Those that want a fancy pistol tend to be practical pistol shooters, in which case they choose the base gun first as something that has potential. The 1911/hicapa has such a good trigger and break/reset that it's all people use. anything else with a lever trigger would be creating such a disadvantage that no one uses it.

did you put the BB in from the bb feed tube or down from the front of the barrel? The nozzle SHOULD be moving......

Bulldog BBs are utter dross. Almost definitely the cause of the problem. Some guns fire them fine, but higher quality stuff more than likely wont. As said though, send it back. Is the nozzle moving?

Low caps - spring loaded from the top, usually upto about 40/50 rounds. Also called 'real caps' Mid Caps - Spring loaded from the top, usually as many rounds as can physically fit inside the magazine under pressure from a single feed spring, tend to be between 90 and 140 rds Hi Caps - loaded via a hatch either on top or near the top of a magazine side. Feeding is caused by winding a clockwork mechanism putting a coil spring under tension. Any mag with this style is called a 'hi cap' but capacities vary from 150-3000 rounds depending on what you choose All electric magazines are hi caps with a motor to save you having to wind the mechanism manually. Best AR type magazine on the market is ALWAYS PTS's offering. Originally the P-Mag (Emags too), then the T-Mag and now the EPM (enhanced Polymer Magazine) they're basically indestructible for all intents and purposes. Yes, they're expensive new, but second hand ones are always around and you can be pretty sure that they will function as new after a quick strip and clean (if needed)

a 7.4V LiPo ALWAYS has 2 cells an 11.1 ALWAYS has 3 cells a 14.8V ALWAYS has 4 cells Those are about as good as you'll get for the money, the next charger up tend to be 3 times the price for a smart charger like the Acucell 6

A SCAR H is a 7.62x54 round an M4 is 5,56x45. Are you sure you mean scar H or scar L?

>Ever telling them you have something to declare. >Ever. Gun bits that aren't integral to the workings of a firearm are completely legal to import. Basically, don't bring home: Actual gun barrels Receivers for guns Bolt carriers or firing pins within your $50 budget you will not be able to afford: Actual gun barrels Receivers for guns Bolt carriers.

Magpul MS4 People keep asking me what the hell sling it is and then basically creaming themselves when they hear that there were numbers higher than 3

nothing to worry about and relatively normal. Not entirely sure what causes it (and I'm not going to try an work it out in this heat), but common on a lot of lower-low/mid end AEGs

Membership is now £30 for everyone - we can't get the pistol sessions anymore still get the PB voucher though! + cheaper playing rates, although those numbers escape me. The arena is generally rated quite highly, the games played aren't like most airsoft games, much faster paced 10-15 mins tops. it's clean, tidy and not dangerous. If you're making the trek down, it's well worth doing a thursday evening, late night store opening about 5 mins from the mill at Patrol Base, so you can do birds with 1 stone (or 2 hour drive, whatever)

I've shot many pistols, both upgraded and not. I own many pistols, both upgraded and not. Upgrades on the barrel make no difference beyond you believe the pistol shoots better, so you shoot it better. I have a standard TM barrel and rubber in my race-pistol at the moment and it doesn't shoot any different to the PDI/Nineball setup on my other hop unit. Put it this way - I'm 'not bad' at pistol shooting (ranked 6th in the UK by 1/2 a % (thanks guide rod for breaking on me) to 5th) and I can't shoot the difference. For skirmishing, if you want to get more kills with your pistol and have £50 to spend - buy two spare magzines

I feel like I can make someone cry now: I have two toned: M4s (obviously) AKs (although, not many) KRISS Vectors (don't actually look that bad) M249s basically any pistol you can name including lugers an M82 (was quite easy, just press the button on the can and go for a walk to two tone the upper receiver ) and my personal favourite: A hephaestus GBB Bulpup AK thing. Yeah. The one that costs £650. Serisouly guys. I agree that we should be inclusive, but there is a line.

The G&G blowback is kinda shitty anyway and a bit of A pain to get sealing right - just get a new cylinder and gearbox case

Should work fine, the H&K/Umarex UMP and G36 are the same gun inside.

It's been discussed at length by us mods and we've decided not to go for it. We like the fact that we are primarily still a 'discussion forum', rather than a 'selling forum' + as we can't moderate stuff we don't know about, we've chosen to keep it strictly airsoft only. There will be camera forums you can sign up to and you're more likely to get a better deal than off here. Cheers

I'm not saying I don't like the idea, but people often can't see my sincerity online. It wouldn't work very well. Whilst trying not to play my own horn, I'm not short of experience: I've worked on M4s, AKs, G36s UMPs, FALs, SLRs, SCARS, M14s, UZIs, AEPs, M249s, P90s, EVERYTHING Plus loads of GBBRs PLUS pistols, PLUS mags, bodywork, custom machining parts, fitting parts that SHOULD work but don't. I can solder well, can make MOSFET units and I still find it tricky to explain exactly what is wrong over the phone sometimes. Not to mention, airsofters don't like to listen and always know better - I correct peoples pistol shooting technique when demo-ing pistols on the range, some like the pointers, some argue thats 'how they've always done it'. I point out only one of us is a nationally ranked pistol shooter and they STILL do their own thing. You'd be better off learning cookery and doing that over skype, at least your market is bigger

Starting this off by saying you are currently learning yourself is a worry. There are SOOOO many problems that can cause knock on effects for various other issues in a gearbox and you need to know ALL of them. Some of which take myself and a combination of other techies (with thousands of hours and hundreds of gearboxes between us) many hours to solve, trying different parts, theories etc. On top of this, despite working on gearboxes day in day out in a clean, well lit workshop and being used to handling small parts under tension we still REGULARLY drop and loose little bits (we joke that the fix takes 20 minutes and finding the part on the floor takes 2 hours) Now, rather than a skilled set of technicians doing the work, how about some chump with no manual dexterity, potentially no one else around to help close a tricky gearbox lid and no actual experience doing the work? The other thing I'd be annoyed about is when you suggest the wrong part. Sure, a broken piston is a broken piston, dead easy (but anyone capable of opening a box can work out the issue) it's when things get tricky enough to warrant a techy: You are told that 'the gun misfeeds the first bbs in a mag' 1. Nozzle spring returns it fine, maybe the tappet plate, so you open it and sure, there's a little wear. You say 'buy a new tappet and call me back once it's there' 3 days go by and they call again They fit it and nothing changes. bizarre, maybe the nozzle is the wrong one, or worn out slightly? Buy a new nozzle again, 3 days go by and they get the nozzle fitted. Still nothing. maybe delay the tappet again, parts ordered, 3 days yadayadayada Still no improvement and now it's a week and a half later, they're out 3 parts that weren't needed + postage, you'd be at £30-50 easily PLUS your fee (charge hourly or you might aswell not bother) AND they're frustrated AND the gun doesn't work. had the gun been brought to me in store: quick assessment, range for the techy to have a try of the issue - simple, the tappet return spring is worn out. Fit a new one. When you pay the tech fee (certainly at Patrol Base) you aren'y just paying for the time taken, you're paying for every previous job where the tech has learnt something, worked something out to make your gun better, faster. I can tell you (with a quick shoot on the range and chat with the owner) almost any issue with most gun types, I know foibles of different gearboxes and brands. EG. KA V2 tend to have shit cut off levers, easily fixed with an ASG UU lever filed to fit (something that took me 13 minutes last time I did it from out of the gunbag, to tested and back on the rack)

>2015 >Lumping Arma and cock of doody in the same genre They are absolutely the best thing we can hope for, not just as airsofters, but as members of a shooting community. The more people are either Pro-Gun or at least not Anti-gun the better for the longevity of our sport and those with similar pastimes (shooters, hunters etc) Thanks to getting kids from a very early age interested in gaming, many of which will play FPS and shooters in general, they will learn to not be scared by firearms and their lookalikes, rather (the correct ideology) of being respectful, yet interested. An remember - if someone at work, college or school has expressed even the vaguest interest in trying out airsofting you MUST invite them along to try it. Even if they don't take it up as a hobby, they will better understand our views and be less likely to push towards a firearms and RIF ban.