jcheeseright

There's no part of a person you can shoot that'll hurt enough for it to be a dick move, I deliberately aim for bits of people where I know they'll feel it. If you don't like being shot, don't play.

you'll be able to arrive on the friday after 1800, game on isn't til saturday morning though. If you're in the main buildings then you'll be able to park immediately outside before moving your car up to the car park, if you're in the FOB then you'll have to park in the car park and stirling run a truck to and from the FOB so you won't have to carry all your stuff.

stirling are notoriously bad at replying to emails, the games are generally good though.

a squirt of abbey maintenance gas will keep the seals in good condition.

yep, airsoft machine shop can do it for you, find them on facebook.

I tend to put antifog stuff on my lenses if taking photos in the cold. fogtech works well, but you have to be really sure to buff the lens properly afterwards to avoid streaks.

how is that relevant? you can be shot up close in woodland too, something is either safe or it isn't! Personally, I wouldn't say it's 'unsafe' but the possibility of a ricochet up into your eye is there with mesh and it's not there without. If in doubt wear full face.

Generally with the TF side at the sandpit you set up in the new FOB in the corner of the site, a basha and a campbed are highly recommended! That said, you may end up setting up in one of the buildings in the main complex in which case the basha won't be needed. Either way, you won't have to carry it about with you. There's no mention of it being a hard routine weekend on the page so I'd say you're likely to be setting up your stuff friday evening/saturday morning (depending when you arrive) and working from an established base all weekend.

hitting the keys too hard?

contact lenses were the solution I went with initially, work perfectly for one day games. If you're going to do weekend games etc though I recommend getting some prescription inserts for a pair of goggles, expensive (ish, about £65) but well worth it.

I have a degree in photography (not recommended as a career path, I didn't make any money!) so I think I can probably help here. What you need for this sort of thing is a half decent DSLR, a tripod and a remote for the camera (it isn't 100% required but it's REALLY helpful). Set the aperture of your camera really narrow (like f25 or so, bigger the number, smaller the aperture) and make sure your lens is in manual focus. Then you need to put the camera into 'bulb' mode (this will make the shutter stay open as long as the button is pushed... this is why you need the remote!). Make sure your ISO setting is as low as you can reasonably go and snap away The longer you leave the shutter open the longer your star trails will be, experiment with your f-stops as too high will give you an underexposed image and too low will overexpose. Since the black bits in between stars (on a clear night) are actually the complete absence of light you should get really good contrast. A few hours worth of 4-5 minute exposures composited together can look really cool, some remotes have a bulb & timer function built in which will do it for you.

Fog is caused by moisture condensing on the lens, for this to happen the lens needs to be colder than the ambient temperature (which is not the OUTSIDE temperature, it's the temperature inside your goggles), which it pretty much always will be since your face heats the air up. Fan goggles work because they force the air inside the goggles to be constantly replaced with fresh cool/dry air which doubles up on the effect; less moisture in the goggles and the ambient temperature should be largely the same as the lenses. The 100% fog proof solution would be a heated lens, even 1 degree would be enough to completely eliminate fog but it'd be power hungry and you'd have to deal with looking at filaments in the lens!

Woodland and milsim I'll wear a gum shield to protect my teeth (get one made by a dentist, a £5 boil and bite from sports direct might not cut it!) as I'm not that bothered about getting welts on my face most of the time. Getting shot in the lip REALLY fucking hurts though. For CQB it's full face every time, not a mix of glasses and lower mesh, full face. I tried glasses and lower mesh and had a number of instances of BBs hitting the top of the mesh and finding a gap below my glasses. Never took a hit to my actual eyeball but got close enough that I wasn't comfortable with it anymore.

Nope, the inside isn't threaded, it slides on to a thinner 'middle outer barrel'. TM used to do them the same way back when, saves money on metal I guess.

Got banned from every major provider 'moved away'.

I loved mine, the noise alone when racking the slide was enough. That said, they do have issues, the tanks leak eventually; mine took about 2 months of regular use to develop a slow leak that I fixed with a bolt through the middle pin hole. The plastics aren't brilliant, they're not awful either though, as Proffrink said though- do not fall over on it! Loading arms as mentioned have been known to be a weak point, though mine personally didn't fail. the 3/6 shot switch is a nice gimmick, I left mine in 3 shot mode most of the time for the better gas efficiency and 10 shots per shell rather than 5. the ability to slam fire a SHITLOAD of BBs very rapidly scares the crap out of people too. I sold mine because I just don't play enough CQB to get the full benefit of it, but if I had a decent regular CQB site I'd pick another one up without hesitation.

best red dot: http://www.tactical-kit.co.uk/aimpoint-128-c.asp

hold on, £95 for a day and a bit of airsoft... there's plenty of other providers doing full 48 hour non-stop games at that venue for less.

Probably because no one will buy them anymore!

they're definitely the real deal, I bought a few a couple of months back and they're identical in every way to the ones I already had.

Only issue I can think of is storing them all!

I'm fairly sure someone somewhere is still making the SOPMOD magazines... MLEmart have had a few loads in stock over the last few months

caps lock is not your friend.

the ones from component shop will fit comfortably.

easiest way to check for a leak, even a slow one, is to fill the magazine up and put it in a bowl of water, give it a couple of knocks to remove the surface bubbles and wait... if you don't see any more bubbles then it isn't leaking!