RR01

I doubt an R Hop is a good idea in an A&K SVD, unless the hop is tuned exactly to the BB used without applying any additional pressure to the hop rubber. The method of adding hop in the A&K hop unit is by way of a very small hard nub sitting vertically over the hop rubber, which will impart a very small amount of contact to the BB, something that an R Hop is trying to avoid by adding much more contact area. You did not mention the weight of BB that you are using and which is causing the accuracy problems. Heavier is better, providing you are putting out between 450 & 500 FPS on 0.2 BBs. Try at least an 0.3 and upwards until you find what suits your rifle best. As mentioned above, if you are upgrading to put out higher FPS then it is a good idea to invest in a steel sear and new piston, with steel band at the back, as the standard A&K sear is quite soft metal and wears very quickly. And a new sear can wear the back of the standard piston as well. For upgrades, AirSoftPro.cz is the place to go; http://airsoftpro.cz/eshop/index.php?cPath=93_204&osCsid=d6022784d5e8c212edbdecaac7a1c8ee . Even going for a full set of replacement parts isn't that expensive.

From memory you do not need an adapter to fit the DD rail to a G&G L85. I had the ARMY version which is exactly the same receiver as the G&G and the only fixing points were the two lugs on the end of the receiver and the sling point screw at the front end. If you have a rail with the ICS adapter then it may only fit on the ICS receiver, which I believe, again from memory, is different to the others. Mind you, at my age, memory is a fleeting thing and I could be wrong.

Charging just before a game is a good idea, but depending on how much charge was in the battery before will effect how long you need to charge it to get it fully charged. It's always best to check the voltage before you start charging. A 9.6v Nihm is discharged if the voltage shows 9.6v, but fully charged if it shows around 11.2v. The formula for charging a Nihm battery is: mAh x 1.5 divided by Amp output of charger. So for your 1600 mAh Nihm charge time is 1600 x 1.5 = 2400 divided by the charge rate of your charger. Charging slowly is better than fast, so if you have a charger that you can vary the rate on, charge at the lower end, e.g. 120mA. On that basis, the charge time would be 20 hours. If you have something that charges at 500mH then charge time is 4.8 hours, but usable time will drop. Also, depending on how trigger happy you are, the mAh of the battery equates to about one BB shot per mAh, so 1600 bbs or 4-5 M4 hi-caps, probably a bit less if using semi only. Oh and for the CYMA 030, do not overcharge the battery, as they die quite easily.

Try 0.25 BBs for a start. What range are you getting, as about 40 yards would be good for something with a short barrel length.

I've got some 0.3 Green Devil bio that are over 5 years old and had a few issues with some not feeding well in a 6.01 inner barrel. But, having checked the majority of them with a micrometer most of them were still solid and showing a regular 5.96mm diameter, even after all that time. If you keep them in a container and mostly in the dark then they should stay fine until they get used and then left to rot down in soil, which is where the bio-degrading is supposed to start. Rather than chuck them, check them for size first.

Why would you want to take the shop to court? The costs of legal action far out-weigh the benefits in this type of case and you would have difficulty proving any significant amount of loss to be able to support such a claim. And it's not the shop that maintains the database anyway. That's with UKARA.

I've had exactly the same problem with a few of my mags. On some M4 mags, the cutout in the side of the mag is positioned just a mm or so too high at the top, so the top of the mag release lets it drop just enough so that the end of the hop unit does not fully push back the tab that holds the BBs in the mag. Three possible solutions: 1) buy and fit a new mag release button; 2) scrape off the paint on the top lip of the mag release button, then drop a bit of solder onto it. Once cold, file it down flat so that you have raised the top about 1mm; 3) glue a thin piece of plastic under the top edge of each of the new mag retention holes. 1) is the most expensive, but probably the quickest and easiest. 2) should solve the problem for the least amount of cash, provided you have a soldering iron and can solder. 3) is probably the most time consuming and may mean the mags won't hold in any other rifle.

Most game sites cannot access the UKARA database, unless they are also a retailer (e.g. F&O). Try going to the shop that you used to register your application, taking along your current site membership card and something official with your new address on it (e.g. photo-card driving license or a bank statement) and ask the retailer to update the database for you.

When you say it jambs, do you mean that the BBs jamb in the mag or hop, or that the gearbox seizes up?

Are you moving the adjusters in the correct direction? If the point of impact of the BB is down and left of where the red dot is pointing then you move the adjustment in those directions. As mentioned above, try moving one complete turn on each adjuster, then shoot again at the same aim point as before and see where the BB impacts the target. If that makes no difference, try another 360 degree turn on each. If it's still hitting the same point then probably the adjusters are broken and you should return it as faulty. If it is changing the impact point, then go to smaller adjustments until you get it spot on.

My gun club used to have an airsoft night, where we used rifles and pistols on the 25m indoor range, alongside those using air pistols. When most of the airsoft users left the club they decided to stop the airsoft use, partly because of the problem of bbs bouncing everywhere, but also because of having to sweep up the range after every event. If you can find a club with an outdoor range of 50-100m then you might be able to pursued them to let you use it for zeroing or general hop setting up, as most ranges don't worry about bbs in the outdoor butts.

Just a thought, but be aware that if you use an AEG with a high ROF on auto then either be prepared to carry a load of midcap mags and change often, or do a lot of winding of hicaps to maintain the spring pressure to feed the bbs. High ROF may be useful, but an accurate rifle on semi, or three round burst (if you have a programmable mosfet fitted), can be far more effective that spraying 50-100 bbs down range in the hope of hitting something. That is really only worthwhile if you have a support gun and need to keep peoples heads down whilst your team mates move forward on them. I know BBs are cheap compared to paintballs, but why waste 100s of bbs when 2 or 3 can do the same job and you won't get someone being angry at overkill.

Try running it on a 7.4V Lipo and see if you get the same problem. If not, drop to lower voltage battery.

To be honest, no. Although the venue is semi only, you are going to be out-ranged and out-classed by those of us that use rifles. They do limit ammo per game, but unless you are carrying about 10-15 mags with you you'll have to leave the game and re-load in the safe area every few minutes, as in-game reloads are not allowed. If you want to go, book in and hire one of their rifles and just use your pistol as a backup. And an electric G18 isn't going to be anywhere near as good as a GBB pistol even in that environment. They are better as a backup for winter woodland games where gas cool down limits how well GBB pistols work in cold weather.

Have you looked at this article? = http://www.kgbairsoft.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=27&Itemid=20 Sounds like he did a fairly easy conversion.

Just be aware, if you slacken it off too much then the hop will creep back off and not stay where you want it set.

They can be. Try slightly backing off the small screw that holds the biggest wheel in place. If that doesn't work, take the hop and inner barrel out of the gun and turn it back from full on to full off about a dozen times to loosen everything off. If it's still tight, take off the larger wheel and the one it connects to, as it could be the wheel hubs are very tight on the pegs they sit on. Try then opening out the hole in the wheel hub very very slightly with a small nail or similar, or a very fine needle file.

The air nozzle twisting is normal, so no problem there. Accuracy with a standard airsoft rifle is never going to be perfect, but it really depends how far out the bb reaches before it starts to deviate. If it's at the end of its flight then that is probably normal, as they could be blown by air currents, but if within the first 20 yards then you have a problem with the setup. As you have tried different buckings then maybe it's time to try a flat hop. These are much easier to fit that an R hop or a G hop and won't take as much setting up. If all of that fails, try borrowing a different inner barrel to see if that makes a difference. If it does, buy a new inner.

Having read through as much of the consultation paper as I can, before getting brain ache, I do think that at last the Government has decided to get their Act together (pun intended) in relation to firearms and, from the tone of the consultation paper, I do think it will overall be of benefit to the airsoft industry and our hobby. I would prefer that they use the 2.5J - 1.3J limits, otherwise we might all have to end up buying TM products to keep below the 328fps / 1J limit. The paper does at least seem to side with the airsoft industry, so there is hope for us yet. The really daft part of the current legislation is obviously that over 18s can still buy and use a 12ft/lb air rifle, which has a rifled barrel and can shoot a pointed projectile at around 12J and which can kill vermin, and cause significant injury to a human, but is prohibited, without access to the provisions of the VCRA specific defense, from buying an airsoft RIF that shoots a round projectile out of a smooth bore at around 1 - 1.3J and which, whilst it can break skin (I know from numerous games!!), cannot puncture to sufficient depth or with sufficient kinetic energy to cause significant injury. Hopefully in a few years we can have a much more user friendly Firearms Act that defines airsoft RIFs as toys and takes them out of the FA entirely. We can only hope.

If you bought it new then contact the retailer to get the problems sorted under warranty. Taking things apart yourself will likely invalidate any warranty and could leave you out of pocket.

Closest are probably either of the two First & Only sites in Kidderminster (Asylum & Outpost) or StrikeForce CQB in Gloucester. Asylum is nowhere near as good now as it used to be, as pikeys have claimed most of the open spaces and let their horses shit all over the place. Outpost is Drakelow Tunnels, so dark and close up.

Google G&G and you should be able to get a contact e-mail for them. They should then be able to send out a replacement direct from the factory to you. I did this a year or two back when I needed some parts for an L85 that were OOS in the UK. Unfortunately I've deleted the e-mail contact address as I no longer have any G&G RIFs.

The Dan Wesson power down shells drop the FPS to about 260, at least mine do. No, they are not really any good as other than a backup weapon if your AEG or GBB goes down, or maybe in a CQB room clearance drill, but they are big, heavy and a bit intimidating. Most CQB sites won't let you use auto inside anyway, so you are not that outclassed for range, as the DW bbs will go more than far enough even at 260 FPS. That said, I still prefer my TM G17 for CQB backup.

This should fit, presuming you have the standard G&G CM16 adjustable stock: http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1450mah-20c-continuous-discharge-cranestock-lipo-battery.html

Can't see anything wrong with any of your points, other than as a site you would not have a UKARA registration, unless you join UKARA as a site operator / retailer, so would not be able to get any whole RIFs through customs without it. Not sure of the requirements for joining, but no doubt others on here will be able to assist. If not, try giving them a call. As to setting up the company, you would probably be advised to register for VAT, as even if you do not gross enough in the first year to be required to register (about £80K these days I think), you could still voluntarily register, which means you can offset the VAT you pay on imports and anything you buy in the EU against the sales / charges to make in the business. The other problems will be with the various legislation, other than VCRA, that you need to comply with as a business. You would do well to consult a solicitor and accountant before you decide to go ahead and spend any real money on setting this up, just to make sure you are fully aware of all the likely problems you might encounter. Once you are satisfied that you are going ahead with your eyes open then consider setting up a Limited Company as a little bit of protection for your personal assets. You could either buy one "off the shelf" or have one set up specifically tailored to your needs (they tend to cost a bit more) but £500 ought to be enough to get you up and running (I set up companies all the time, but for clients of a firm of solicitors, so cannot help directly). Other than that, good luck with your new venture.