Jamin_p

So i've moved and need my address updating but the gamesite has failed to act on multiple requests to update these details. It is a UKARA registered site still and as such they should perform this right? I no longer play at said site, or at least haven't in the past few months however I do play at a different site but that shouldn't stop them? How do I go about sorting this out in order to purchase RIFs to my new address? Do i contact UKARA direct? Do I re-register at a different gamesite? Answers on a postcard please!

Ok, so i've checked and changed the fuse and sure enough, the motor is spinning again. I'm going to go with the idea that something has lost some teeth or the like as having tried super-slowly tightening the screw whilst on full auto it gets to the point of almost being unable to manually tigheten and getting no different outcome other than a whine and no firing. Next question then, as i'm reluctant to open the 'box due to my unfamiliarity inside it, anyone able to recommend any techs in the swindon/wiltshire area?

I will start with a new fuse as that is accessible easiest, should be able to do that be end of weekend hopefully but sadly dont have access to a multimeter so i'm going to have to assume the wiring is good. RE gearbox and internals, they are steel rather than pot metal etc as standard with a poly silenced piston so only upgrades that should be required are a fet for the contacts and any performance upgrades i might like such as tbb, hop rubber etc. Would the gearbox have produced the screechy noise before it died? I did listen to it closely and it definitely came from the motor so i'm reluctant to go fiddling in there unless i can rule everything else out. Also, if the issue was the gearbox, wouldn't loosening the screw again resume the motor activity, which it isn't.

Hi. So I have a stock E&L AIMS that i've been running on 11.1 lipo until about a month or so ago when it showed what i assumed to be a loose motor screw that just needed tightening i.e. high pitched whine, not firing. As i was not playing again for a while and due to a lack of time to properly investigate if this wasn't the case, I have left it alone. Today i've come around to fixing this due to an upcoming skirmish and after 2 presses of the trigger, once as is and once after tightening slightly, the third squeeze yielded nothing. no noise or movement or sign of life. So i can eliminate that it is not the battery as i have tried 3 of them which have all worked in my backup gun right after. So in my mind this could be.... 1) Blown fuse? I think unlikely as its a 30c fuse on a 25c battery. 2) Burnt out motor? 3) Burnt out trigger contacts? 4) Other? Any input and suggestions to diagnose would be appreciated. Thanks.

I didn't think to ask when it was done so that's going to be tricky for me to answer. I'm going to assume m90 as I believe they come with 120s.

So my first 'big boy gun' is an E&L AIMS and as much fun as it is, I'm at the point where I'm now looking to make it the best it can be and do it myself rather than pay someone else. I have very little experience working with aeg internals and so I guess I'm looking for people's experiences working with them, any upgrades people have carried out and recommendations on what I should look at to achieve my goals. What I'm aiming to achieve: - Consistent fps, around 310 on .25s. was originally 285 after downgrade on purchase but has dropped to 235 last chrono so possible i tore the rubber? As a side note, it was firing 430fps stock and the d/grade was carried out by the retailer with a spring change. - install a 'fet. I have a pico aab ready to go as currently running 11.1v and need to fit to prevent trigger contacts burning out. Should be straight forward right? V3 gearbox means I get to avoid all the annoying wiring problems? - more effective hop. Adding a flat hop and a more effective hop unit as currently, I have max hop and still have yet to see any hint of lift on a shot so I think I might be able to get a good bit more range over the current 55m or so. Is this a case of changing rubber and nub or will I need a new unit? If so, recommendations? All advice appreciated.