RR01

It may well be a blown fuse, even allowing for the fact that you have a 30Amp one in there. It may be that tightening the adjustment screw caused it all to jamb up and that could easily overload the fuse. If you have access to a multimeter then test for continuity (if it's not obviously showing a break). Alternatively if the gearbox has seized then that could also produce the symptoms you describe, especially as you are running on an 11.1V Lipo. Are the gearbox and motor fully upgraded to be able to handle that increased load? Stock gearboxes that are not produced with upgraded gears, piston, etc. don't last long on 11.1V Lipos, so you could be looking at an expensive repair job. To correctly set the motor height you need to run the gun on auto and increase / decrease the screw pressure until you get the smoothest, least screechy noise from the motor / gearbox.

If you want a truthful answer, ask any of the guys that shoot airsoft IPSA. My mate has just ordered a new Race pistol for IPSA from Mike Cripps and he has specified a 6.01 inner barrel for his new Hi-capa. He'll also use very high quality ammo. As IPSA is all about speed and accuracy at distances out to no more than 15 yards, having a really accurate inner barrel is a must. However, it does depend on everything fitting and working together properly, so you really need to research how it all fits and operates together. As with anything in airsoft, what works in one gun won't necessarily do the same in an identical model.

Never heard of KOER, but that looks suspiciously like an A&K SVD, right down to the spring mechanism. As for the scope and mount, yes they should fit, although the mount rail may need a bit of work to make it fit easily, but it will look really lame. SVDs only look right with a PSO1 or POSP scope fitted and the clones of those are usually over $100 plus delivery, unless you can get a second-hand one off the forums.

Yes they should. MP5 pins would probably also fit.

If you are running a suppressor on the front, make sure you keep the OE inner barrel and hop unit. Then if you play CQB you can refit the original inner barrel & hop and take off the suppressor for a shorter gun where range isn't such an issue.

If all that fails try this little trick to make sure the mag is feeding. Take the inner & hop unit out of the rifle. Put about 25 BBs in the mag, unless you are using a hicap, in which case load about 75 BBs and wind the mag fully. Then, holding you thumb or finger over the hole the nozzle goes in from, put the hop feed tube into the top of the mag (it's best to place the bottom of the mag on something solid, like a table or worktop). If the mag is feeding is should load about 4 or 5 BBs into the tube and align with the nozzle feed hole. If not, you have a problem either with your mag spring, the little slide that keeps the BBs retained in the mag, or the hop unit itself. If it does feed, carefully stick a bag over the nozzle feed hole, then take away your finger. If the mag is feeding strongly BBs should shoot out of the back of the hop unit (the bag is there to stop them going all over the house!!). The other things to check are that the small diameter spring is still on the top of the hop unit, to push the hop back into tight contact with the gearbox, and that the hop isn't turned fully on by mistake. To check, with the inner & hop out of the gun, look down the inner from the muzzle end with the hop towards a light source. With the hop fully off you should either not be able to see the hop rubber at all, or just the slightest bump in the top of the hop. If you can see a lot of hop rubber then that may be your problem.

Hi Seb, There are quite a few players in Cheltenham, and Gloucester and, as Beastmode said, there's a great new CQB site in Gloucester, based on the old Morelands match factory on the A38, just near Gloucester Quays outlet shopping center. Definitely worth a look. I'm winding down from playiing, so have a fair bit of kit for sale, so drop me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll let you know what is available. Might be something for you. Also give Frostbyte a PM on here. He's Greek and lives in Cheltenham and is fairly new to UK airsoft, but has played a lot in Greece previously. We're both going to Strikeforce on 21 June (probably) unless something better comes up. As to sites, as well as those near Bristol, there is F&O The Asylum and The Outpost, both in Kidderminster and about 40 miles from Cheltenham. The Asylum isn't anywhere near as good as it used to be, as about half the site is now taken over by some pikeys who let their horses shit all over the playing fields, but may be worth a look. The Outpost is probably now better, as it's based in an old nuclear bunker tunnels, almost all underground and either lit poorly or pitch black. Good fun. Mike

If you go on the Facebook forums look for a Ben Fisher. I sold him my SVD and put the OE part you want in the box, as I'd fitted the upgrade part to mine. He might be willing to part with the OE one if that helps you.

Sounds like either something is out of line, the spring is binding on the guide or possibly the slide is binding on the side of the receiver. Check that the screws holding the spring guide are tight and that it's not moving under pressure. Also, remove the guide and spring and check that the slide can move fully back easily. Also check that you refitted the trigger block properly in the receiver.

With the Raider you should have a single sling point already between the back of the receiver and the stock tube. If you use a single point you have the advantage that if you need to shoot left handed then swapping over with single point is dead easy, but very difficult with two or three point (although easier with three point than two). If you have the short Raider then a single point is definitely much easier to use (I had one on my Raider S), although 2 or 3 point would still work well on the Raider L. If you are not carrying too much gear then a belt kit is definitely lighter, although adding a yolk to take the weight off your hips can help. I've done that with mine, which also meant I could customise the yolk and belt to take a clipped in Camelbac for those longer summer outdoor games.

I had an SRC gearbox fitted to a non-SRC gun, so the reverse should be true. However, why go to the bother of getting a whole new gearbox when a set of gears is all you will probably need.

G&G CM rifles are pretty good OOTB, so you should not really need to do anything much to it. If after playing with it for a few months you find that it's not getting quite the range or accuracy of others you are playing with (or against) then that it the time to look at upgrading the hop unit, hop rubber (bucking) or the hop nub. But even then you might not get exactly what you want, as two identical guns can give different results using the same "upgrade" parts. It's mostly a case of trial and error to see what works best for your setup.

320 is enough for most situations. By increasing the spring pressure to around 350 you are only going to get a bb on target small fractions of a second quicker than at 320. FPS doesn't really have any effect on range, it's mostly how your hop is set for your ammo of choice. Also, if you get too close to 350 you risk going over and most sites now will not let you use a gun running at even 351, so sticking to the lower rated spring has benefits. If it settles in after a while and starts to drop FPS then that's the time to look at getting it changed.

It's really not worth shimming the top of the bevel gear, as it's meant to move slightly to ensure it meshes with the pinion on the motor. A small shim on the bottom end is OK and maybe another thin one on the top, but leave enough slack so that the bevel gear can move up and down about 1mm or so with both halves of the gearbox closed. When you refit everything and set the motor height you should take up the slack with how deep the motor sits in the pistol grip. Just don't tighten it too much, just set with the motor running on auto and adjust the screw on the base-plate until the gearbox spins freely and the motor isn't making any horrible noises. Smooth is good.

Save up a bit more and by a WE Gen 4 G17. Much better in the long run.

Most piston heads are screwed on, so removal should be fairly straight forward.

+1 on M4. I used many different makes in mine when I had an ARMY L85.

Age is not a defense to being a moron!!

You don't need to go to only one site, you just need to go to one site three times spread over more than 61 days to apply for membership of that site, which then qualifies you to apply for UKARA registration. There is nothing to stop you going to other sites within that time and playing by hiring, or buying and playing with a two-tone RIF (provided you are over 18), or borrowing a RIF from another player. The rules relate to the minimum period required to prove you are a regular skirmisher at an insured airsoft site. You would not get UKARA registration without getting site membership first.

That looks like the same mount that I had on my POSP clone and yes, they are not adjustable, although I suspect a RS one would be on those bottom screws. If you don't want to damage it then I agree that there is nothing to do, but if you are up for a little modding then my suggestion "might" be the answer. I know I had to work on the rail on mine just to get the POSP to fit at all.

Your scope looks to be fitted a bit low on the receiver, compared to the clone POSP scopes. Is the scope body fixed to the mounting bracket, or can it be removed from the bracket (doesn't look to be from your photo)? If it can be removed then I'd suggest fitting a small spacer between the scope tube and the bottom of the front tube mounting cradle to raise the front of the scope. Something like two thicknesses of old 35mm film used to be the preferred method with air rifle scopes that had similar problems, otherwise something thin but flexible will do the same thing. If it isn't removable then I'm not sure what will do it, as you would then need some way of raising the whole front end of the bracket in the side mount about 1-2mm to achieve the same effect. For that you would need to either add a small wedge to the front of the side mount or similar inside the front of the mounting bracket. You "could" achieve that by filing away a bit of metal from the bottom inside front of the mounting bracket and then adding a bit to the top inside front, but that might be a step too far if that's an expensive scope.

Try spraying some silicon oil in the pistol grip on the three sides away from the BB chamber in the mag, then work the mag in and out a few times to spread it aeround.

That looks like a narrow spring sniper spring, not an AEG spring, so would not fit. You say your FPS dropped when you fitted an R hop. Did you chrono with 0.2s to get that FPS? Most R hop setups need to use heavier ammo to get the most out of them, so you will lose FPS anyway with the heavier ammo. I think I had about an M150 in my SVD and that was putting out 480 using a 6.01 inner barrel (on 0.2s) and twin point hop rubber, set up for using 0.3s in game.

If you are going to use an 11.1V Lipo then you really need a fully upgraded top of the range setup to take the stresses that the additional power provides over a standard nihm battery. If you want to go Lipo then a 7.4V would have been a far safer conversion and would have given power equivalent to a 9.6V nihm. Sticking an 11.1V in there is like connecting it up to a fully charged car battery pushing out about 13.4V, way more than a standard setup can handle safely.

I very much doubt that weight would have any effect on an airsoft gun in the manner you enquired about. There are far greater forces present in all types of airsoft weapons, be they spring, aeg or gbb, in the mechanisms that create the blast of air or gas to propel the BB and a difference of 0.2 of a gram between the standard and the heaviest BB isn't going to add any significant amount to those forces already in play. You "might" get additional wear on the hop rubber, but those are service items anyway and would expect to be changed at intervals.