RR01

OK, PM me a contact number or e-mail and I'll make some enquiries of the lads and get back to you. As for renting, I suspect we've got more than enough guns between us to let you borrow one or two until you can buy your own.

There is currently nowhere that close to Cheltenham for airsoft, but most of us locals go to F&O Asylum or Outpost in Kidderminster (about 40 miles) as the nearest sites. There is also Black Ops at Cribbs Causeway in Bristol (about 45 miles), Spartan Airsoft at Lulsgate (near Bristol Airport - about 70 miles) and Dragon Valley near Newport (again about 70 miles). If you want to join up with us the next time we play let me know and I'll find out when and where the next game is likely to be.

Try using a blunt ended kitchen knife to ease out the straps from each loop on the vest before feeding it into the next one on the pouch. That's what I do if the MOLLE is a bit tightly bunched.

Are you weaving the straps in and out of the Molle webbing on your vest as well as in and out of those on the back of the pouch? That should hold it reasonably tight, although never as tight as with malice clips, which are much stiffer than those on the back of most pouches.

No, at least not for the Lipo. Just plug the small white lead with three wires going into it into the equivalent sized socket in the right side of the charger (see the instructions on the link supplied by Mr Monkey Nuts - it shows you where the sockets are). My Lipo charger, a dirt cheap one from Componentshop, charges my 2400mAh Lipos in about 25 mins from about 7V initial charge, so anything much longer should not be necessary, or your charger isn't working properly. You definitely don't need to plug in the main lead as well.

You only EVER charge Lipos via the small white balance charge lead, never via the Deans / Tamiya type lead that you use to connect the Lipo to the gun. Your charger should then cut out once the Lipo is fully charged. Also, NEVER let the Lipo drop below 6V (3V per cell) otherwise you are likely to damage it and it will not easily recover. Always disconnect a Lipo from the gun after each game, to make sure there is no small current drain within the gun's circuitry, as that can drain the battery as well.

If you fit the hop into the top receiver, does it move in and out against spring pressure when pressed in by hand? If not then it may not be pushing back fully against the gearbox when you refit the receiver halves. If it is a very tight fit in the top receiver then you may need to lightly sand down the wings on the hop unit, or check that nothing has got dropped into the outer barrel to stop the hop unit seating fully.

Having worked for 10 years in the drinks industry I've tried quite a few different brands of Whisky. The best was in the boardroom at Bells, where we were offered some very expensive single malts with our lunch. But without spending a fortune on a bottle, I prefer Grants as a general blended for everyday (or rather every night) drinking and it's stablemate single malt Balvenie Doublewood (or Triple Cask) for those occasions when something a little better is called for. I will also drink Glenfiddich, but compared to Balvenie it is a bit bland, except if you can get hold of a bottle of 25yo, when it's much better, but bl**dy expensive.

Yes, sorry, misread your post. That said I have some 3 year old Green Devil 0.30s that I bought to use at Spartan and never got to use them up. Was using them at The Asylum in my SVD and found some of them were jambing up my 6.01 inner barrel. Not sure how or why, except maybe loading them from the mag was causing a problem, as checking the size with a micrometer later didn't find anything over 5.95 in the rest of the batch. However, never had the problem with purely plastic BBs.

You've obviously never played at Spartan Airsoft, near Bristol Airport then. They've been bio BB only since about 2010 when they were in Thornbury

I used a single point sling on my Raider S, just clipped to the sling point at the back of the receiver. For such a short rifle a single point sling is more than enough, although as Airsoft_Mr B says, don't buy the cheap crap on Ebay. A bungy sling gives you a bit more "give" if you need to let go of the rifle if, say, you want to throw a grenade. SoF do them here: http://www.sofmilitary.co.uk/condor-cobra-one-point-sling.-a-tacs-au-product,13894 and in different colours as well. They also do a box of 10 x 85 round M4 midcaps for £40.

I use two triple Begadi pouches for my MP5 mags and they work fine and even hold the mags firm without the elastic attached, which speeds up mag changes.

Sounds good now. If it doesn't drop enough then an M140 spring should get you sensibly below the 500 fps limit.

Do you have the original 600mm barrel? If so, what FPS does it shoot at with that fitted? It could be the 6.03 might not be sealing fully in the hop unit. Did you change the hop rubber at the same time? If not, try a new one, but also try sealing it tightly to the inner barrel. Apparently dental floss works well if tied tightly around the front of the hop rubber. Other than that, it could be the 650mm inner might just be too long for the standard cylinder, cylinder head and piston setup, so dropping your FPS. You could do with upgrading all of the parts on the ASPUK or AirsoftPro.cz websites.

It sound more like you have a short circuit on the connections to the Lipo, so that as soon as you connect the battery you are by-passing the trigger contacts altogether and engaging the motor. That would be why pulling the trigger slows down the motor, as the current is trying to follow two separate paths. Go back and look at where the wires to the Lipo are connecting to the original wires to the supplied NihM connection, as you will probably find one of them isn't covered properly and is touching something metal that touches the gearbox. If you add any new wires, always make sure you properly insulate the connections.

The standard G&G CM Raider S uses a 229mm inner barrel, but the same gearbox, including cylinder, as the Raider L, so you should not need to change the cylinder, or anything else in the gearbox. However, you will notice a drop in FPS if you shorten the inner, probably by about 20-30 FPS. I did the reverse of this and tested my Raider S with both 363mm and 510mm inner barrels (M4 & M16 lengths) and had increased FPS figures of 345 and 380 respectively with no other changes.

An M85 spring is too low for the L85, especially as it has quite a long cylinder. That will equate to about 260 on 0.2s. An M100 ought to give you around 330 on 0.2s, which is the BB weight all sites chrono on, so is what you really should be doing as well. That would then give you around the 300 FPS mark using 0.25s. An M110 would likely raise the FPA above 350 on 0.2s, so unless you play only at sites that have a higher limit I'd stick to an M100.

So far as I'm aware, the only way to renew the UKARA registration is to either renew your original site membership, which usually means being a regular player there, or to find another site you like and gain membership there, but that means doing your 3 games again. I don't think there is any other valid way of renewing.

The point of a DMR over a single shot sniper rifle is that you can follow up with a second shot so much quicker than is possible with a spring powered rifle. You also usually have a slightly shorter MED, as the FPS of the DMR is that much less than a spring sniper rifle, so you can be closer to your target without the BB carrying enough energy to actually cause injury. If you want to play as a real sniper then you need a fully upgraded rifle and be looking to engage targets at 50 - 80 yards from good cover, whereas playing as a designated marksman means you can be with, or in support of, other team players and not need to hide away for that "out of the blue" kill at extreme range. If your BB is curving in flight then either your hop needs some work, or the BB was being moved by the wind. Even a light wind can have an effect on the flight path of a BB and a stronger one can make it curve 90 degrees from the intended course so you can shoot round corners Did that a few years back at Dragon Valley when it really was too windy to play properly.

When I tested it I remember emptying the mag in just over 2 seconds, so ROF is about 750 - 800 for the Dessie. Never did check it exactly on my chrono though.

Mine have that marking and were sold as G&P mags.

Sounds like you are getting there. Personally I would not clip the M150 spring. Just put it in the gun and leave it cocked for 12 hours. That will weaken the spring slightly by being compressed for a long period. Try running it through the chrono then and you should see a slight drop in FPS. If it drops too much, take it out of the gun and let it settle back completely uncompressed for 24 hours, then try it again. I left an AEG spring compressed in error for 8 weeks and saw a 40% drop in FPS, but it pulled itself back to about 85% of normal after being released. I think the new AirsoftPro piston is supposed to be a slightly looser fit in the cylinder, but the O ring should be oversized to take up the difference. However, if it is a little loose, try removing the O ring and stretching it over the cylinder for a minute or so. Seen that done in a tech video somewhere online recently. Supposed to stretch it enough to take up the slack and reseal it. Since you are getting fairly consistent 500 +/- then you have probably solved most of your problems.

I presume you are charging it via the small white lead, not the power lead for the gun?? If not then you may have destroyed the battery.

There should not be a problem with a Madbull barrel, but they can be a tight fit in some hop units. I've put an Element 6.01 x 600mm in mine and that fitted fine, although I have to use very good quality ammo in it. If you are taking it all out again, make sure that all the grub screws are making proper contact with the slots in the inner barrel and within the outer barrel itself, as if there is any slack here it could give rise to some leakage. As regards the hop rubber, if you are aiming for around 500fps then you definitely need a harder hop rubber than the standard AEG ones. Something like a 70% or 80% hardness would be best. I've got a Falcon twin point hard rubber in mine and that seems quite good, although I do need to "shoot it in" with another 1K rounds or so before it settles down fully.

For most airsoft sniping you don't need much more that 3x or 4x magnification, otherwise your field of view drops dramatically, although up to 9x may be useful if you want to get a good look at someone hiding out in woodland (but revert back to 3x to shoot him/her). Something with a 40mm or bigger objective lens will give a fairly bright sight picture, but does open up the possibility of getting a bb hitting the lens. And bigger objective means bigger price. Don't restrict yourself to airsoft retailers, as some of the airgun retailers do decent Tasco scopes for not a vast amount of money. Otherwise look on Ehobbyasia or similar to see what they have on offer.