Davegolf

Yeh that will be a very perky battery! SHS gears, tappet plates etc are fine. Ive used the above parts so many times with excellent results I don’t use much in the way of SHS or ZCI any more. ICS Orange and Retro Arms are great mid range POM pistons. Im not a fan of full steel pistons, I like at least a 1/3 soft teeth so that if SHTF the damage is limited to a new piston and a gearbox clean out... as opposed to trashed gears, bearings and/or worse. Pretty much any gearbox shell can be made good, that’s down to the tech.

RE trigger response, the torqueier motor is going to get up and go quicker from a semi auto point of view. All other things kept equal. Matching parts is utter bullshit, use whatever parts combo yields the best fit/tolerance/air seal/performance. 11.1V is going to push it I think, you’ll be right on the 25RPS tipping point, and will need AB at that point for sure. If you want a semi only gun go 25RPS for the trigger response. Make sure to give some fresh air to the motor for heat dissipation if you’re going to run it hard semi spamming. If you are building for field use, stick to 7.4V, the ROF will be much more useful accuracy and ammo conservation wise, plus you won’t be gunning the internals so much. PS if you are buying Gucci guys I find Lonex to be the best of the bunch performance wise for cyl heads, pistons, nozzles etc. I really like LPE piston heads. ICS or SHS pistons are great. Def’ get some Airlab Sorbo in there if you go 11.1V route.

Cheers for that 👍

I was looking to fit em on an E&L one, can anyone confirm - are they actually longer? Il be using a RS Zen B11. I appreciate they all need “tuning” but you can’t mak a hand guard longer! 🙈

Hi all, can anyone confirm does the Zenit B19 / B19n fit the AKS74U? Obv with the B11. Cheers

Also check if the problem is just one mag causing the issue, it may have damaged feed lips. @Hypokondrikern surely it’s down to your play style, both could be useful if your at assault FPS levels, MRO for active gaming upto medium ranges, and the short dot for more sneaky play / medium long ranges. Def the latter if you are at DMR FPS.

@Whereismyhammer check the bucking feed lip is in good condition, check the nozzle is not damaged; particularly the little tab that picks the BB up and the hole/front leading edge. Geoff’s or Devil blaster or Green Devil are all high quality ammo.

Hi @Albiscuit, they are undeed good OOTB but there are some minor tweaks can be done. The fire selector can be improved for more tactile operation. Mosfet / switchpack upgraded to latest spec which is much more robust. The standard shimming can be improved on. The standard air seals can be improved for more consistency. Things generally smoothed inside. Hop unit spaced back for better seal and less chance of mid feed.

TM recoils and some others are inherently reliable, but you could always remove the recoil parts/system if you felt the Bolt was nicer than the E&L otherwise?

Get what you pay for though, and so much more immersive 🙂

Anything is possible, not off the shelf that I’m aware. I have a bastardised HSGI pouch that is great for stashing a pistol on my rig under my armpit.

Bottom left hands down coolest

Do you want noise, mans vibrator? I think with recoils, if you want realism get a GBBR. Maybe @Solar could expand on what exactly ‘falling apart’ means?

@Lex Dangler I think what you are experiencing is gearbox wind back, this is normal when you don’t have many anti reversal teeth on the bevel. It will have zero impact on the gun itself really. But it is annoying in your ear lol! Fixes are more teeth on bevel ARL, motor braking point/setting adjustment, or cut off switch setup. You could try to isolate motor movement but that’s a band aid.

@Lex Dangler yes it may have had a lot of AB, or other abuse, I wouldn’t write it off though. Pop the brushes out and have a look at the wear, there is a LOT of meat on these motors. It may just benefit from a clean up and a couple drops of oil on the bearings. Most people run waaaay to much AB. Ive been very impressed with the Lonex helical pinion/bevel sets. TBH I think the ASG pinion profile is pretty rubbish - aka generally noisy and doesn’t mesh / wear well with most bevel gears. @Sitting Duck Yes I consider 20 RPS to be a fast gun these days!

I can vouch for the ASG CNC U22000. Great cool running and economical motor, which is also very quiet. On a 13:1 gear set with 350fps spring and 7.4V expect 16 RPS. Which I think is about the perfect rate of fire, both in fire power lay down and the sound / realism. Also with this motor, spring and gear ratio speed you will need very little active braking - which also saves battery power and extends the life of your motor. The motor is very powerful and as such RPS will not change much if you add a stronger or weaker spring. They are also extremely reliable. I would fit a Lonex helical bevel set in there too - quieter and easier to setup.

Best thing to do is rotate your mags so they have longer to settle down before you use it again (assuming 2 BB loads per gas fill)

You have a pesky MED cos you’re a pesky sniper!

As said differently above, all standard airsoft guns of equal power and the same energy source will have very similar outright range. But I think what you are actually asking is... Top five pistols in terms of their EFFECTIVE RANGE. Longest range that is accurate. Can hit a person, not just a barn door! TOP 3 Pistols 1: TM MK23 non blowback 2: TM HK45 blowback 2: TM FNX blowback 2: ASG CZ Shadow 3: Most other TM blowbacks The average range of these guns is around 50-55M standard.

Haha that’s airsoft! 1 gun will never do

Hello hello! Welcome, there definitely a wealth of knowledge and lack of bull here 👍

You are porbably on an M100 spring, in which case your FPS / air seals are all very good I was going to say, but held my tongue... dont get hung up on measuring amp/current, unless you have very expensive test kit - as you have found - it does not show peak draw all that well etc The best test for basic kit is just do a sustained full auto burst (3 secs) and get the constant/settled amp draw. The amp draw you are reading is showing you power consumed, this is affected mostly by higher or lower effort required to turn over/cycle the gearbox. A more poweful spring, binding/tight shimming, sticky piston, gear meshing, etc, will all increase effort. There are so many variables, but get a base reading. Your gears should have a very small amount of vertical play, clearance for lube and a tiny amount of heat expansion. Talking a 3 thou 0.003" or 0.75mm. Provided your motor height is in the ball park, you may find you can perfect it by doing the basic amp draw test above, adjust the height like 1/8 turn, re-test etc to get the lowest reading. You should not be more than 1/4 turn either way than your start point really if mesh is set correctly. You can use your base reading against lots of little tweaks - shimming / piston rails / gear setup etc PS make sure your battery is always in the same state of charge for apples to apples test results!

Its all done in the name of convenience and consistency - you can take the thing apart repeatidly without thing fallin out that shouldnt, and shim readings are going to be repeatable. Making sure that things that are not meant to move do not move - perfect fit seldom occurs in budget airsoft. And yes i am talking about decent gearboxes and nice gear sets, even most mid range gearboxes have locating pins so once again you have consistency. Checking alignment is easy, bolt the gearbox halves together, use a dowel to check bushing hole squareness. Basically if you are pressing bushings in, if they are made of plastics by pressing in you are deforming them to some degree, if they are metal you would likely be stressing the gearbox and/or not getting squareness of fit / alignment. Something has to give. If you are using bearings the big relative clearances of the race will take up the lack of squareness / alignment. TLDR - for an easy life bond your bushings in! - A perfect or slightly undersize bushing bonded in is better than interference fit from an engineering stand point with this being airsoft.

OMFG no M4! that is a joy to hear lol! Everyone has there preferences and tastes, personally I can’t stand hoses into mags 🤢 So to that end you’re looking at specific GBB guns you can connect air to grip or stock. Or engine in an AEG. As above I suppose you have to ask; Noise or stealth? CQB or field? Pistol, SMG or rifle? You’ve got to give some inclination as to what YOU want to achieve? The P90 does require effort, but all the best/interesting guns do. The non metal front end kills it for me otherwise I’d have had one ASAP. Ultimate no sweat performance would easily be MWS + HPA drum.