Davegolf

Oh they completely serve a purpose, but he can use the leviathan for apples to apples results - IN THAT GUN, or if he built another gun with another leviathan. And the inbuilt metering is way more sensitive than an inline doohickey, unless your on lab spec kit. I mean a BTC is more accurate regarding actual peak current on start up than my Fluke clamp meter. That not a C clamp - damn jarheads

Seriously don’t get hung up on the amps, your leviathan will tell you enough, just a reference point / ballpark device really. Youre not going to get more the 18rps tops out of 7.4, 12:1, 22k. Take it back to bare shell. Does the piston freely fall in the rails when the gearbox halves are bolted up tight? Shimming should be good by now. Tappet plate is not binding. Assemble the cylinder head and cylinder, put the piston assy inside. Blank off the nozzle with your finger. Does the piston pull back without vacuum? Next assemble compression set without the main spring and gears into gearbox, properly bolted up can you easily cycle it all turning the bevel with a screwdriver? This is checking the sector isn’t binding with the piston. Lastly check electrical connections are solid. Let us know what your results are 😁

Haha! Seems like you’ve learnt you have to build the box up and down many times as you go along, testing clearance and motion at every step!

You should have clearance on all your shimming, to allow for lubricant ingress, heat expansion etc. Typically 0.04 - 0.10mm. And you need to do this with the shell halves bolted up properly. Once all gears are fitted, shimmed up, you should be able to whiz them round with your finger driving the sector gear. Driving from the bevel gives you great mechanical advantage, in your case 12x as much Aaaand check for tight spots during rotation, which could point to tooth profile faults, casting marks, burrs etc

Normally quite warm in Flamingos native environment 😂

Is the battery voltage low compared to before? Assuming the spring and FPS is identical to before? Have you actually counted your gear set teeth and calculated the 'actual' ratios? Are the spur and sector mismatched to a bevel etc? (giving you an actually different ratio)

Cheers for that! Completely forgot about Hogue as a brand!

Anyone recognise this;

Aaand that’s how Hamster got Adolf’d

You’d seriously fuck your self up with light-chucks!

Mwhoo haa!

Fly back diode, eats up the shutdown current created by a DC voltage motor, saves the brushes/commutator

Could also put a fly back across the motor.

Primary!!?

Very nice, what is the base gun?

Very exciting!! Always had great service from Camoraids, hopefully their gaming will bas good if not better! 😁

@Mullvad

If the problem is isolated to the gun itself - EG it’s not a mag problem - then I would look at the following; - Make sure the piston seal is properly lubed. - A new TM bucking - A new TM nozzle - I know 🦄 I assume your going for full mag dump, so make sure the mag is correctly filled (upside down), non green gas modded, not over filled.

@heroshark needs help I think 🤔 PS glad to see the Derringer is the star 😁

@JamesWills something is up with your hop unit or that bucking is too thin to apply enough hop. A stock TM bucking with Super Nub should you see you accurate at 50M on 0.28s or much more if you step up to 0.36s which IMO is the diet an MWS deserves 😁 @Whereismyhammer so currently completely stock other than G&P nozzle? When you say jamming please explain. BBs jamming up the place or nozzle/bolt getting hung up?