Davegolf

Ha love the Rhino!

Haha, airsoft other half’s eh 😂 Save you shimming twice is all

That gear wear is completely normal on a stock NGRS, they ‘bed/work harden’ themselves into wear pattern and if you leave it stock it will run for years without fault. Glad you didn’t go Nuprol, don’t buy anything Nuprol other than gas. Lonex is a great gear choice, if you haven’t done the work yet I would highly recommend fitting a Lonex helical bevel gear set at the same time, you will have to change the pinion (included in the kit) on your motor. The smoothness and quietness is a welcome addition to any AEG and they are easier to setup than normal straight pinion/bevels.

Who new so much joy could come from FB disbanding 😁

I had this with Powair the other day, the problem is some European retailers were slow on registering for their new VAT codes, for example Powair hope to have theirs mid-to-end of Jan. A lot of Far East retailers are simply not shipping because of COVID restrictions.

What next January 🤣

Have you measured that inner barrel length yourself? I only ask as if it is closer to 200mm you are going to need a much stronger spring than M100 for 300 FPS let alone 330

Hang on a minute let’s rewind. Did you check your new spring length against the old one? We’re they the same length? What model is your M4 / I mean how long is the barrel?

Facebook is shite for finding useful info, or re-finding anything, and yes - wombles. Forums FTW.

Do you know the reasoning for removal?

SS isn’t the best solution and is best worked around/avoided if possible. Because to maintain FPS you need a stronger spring, so for a given equal FPS output - SS vs non SS - essentially you are increasing the resting spring rate (preload), there by increasing pressure, load and stress on the 1st pickup tooth and the cylinder head/gearbox. The ZCI motors are definitely the best of the bunch when it comes to budget motors. Enjoy 😁

Hah cool, I still wouldn’t run a 6.01 on anything other than a pistol. 6.03 or 6.05 for an AEG. With 6.01 straightness is very important and it doesn’t take much dirt or crap BBs for things to go wrong when your barrel is longer than a pistol AND your pumping 25 BBs down there EVERY SECOND! Personally if I were you I would; Buy a new M100 and M90 from a known brand. Step down to 7.4V or get a slower motor - I can’t believe the motor you have is 18K, it doesn’t add up, you must have a good one!? Another option for you is; SS what you have by 3 teeth, that should drop you about 45 FPS. Put your sorbo pad in, that’ll drop another 5 FPS. SS BY 2 TEETH FIRST AND TEST - YOU CAN TAKE ANOTHER TOOTH OFF, BUT YOU CANNOT PUT IT BACK ON! Stil a good practice to buy a couple of known springs for your reference.

🤢 Madbull barrel Seriously the standard barrel will be better 👍 Are you definitely testing FPS with 0.2s? Your going to need to drop that spring rate down, no wonder the motor was getting hot! Beware your RPS will increase again if you fit weaker spring. Sorbo pad will be very useful, quieter, slightly lower FPS, and protect the gearbox. Full auto FPS readings are never that accurate. Test on Semi and you should have much more stable readings.

Answered your own question! Yes SS invariably means you’ll need a stronger spring. If you want faster trigger response then you’re looking at a pre cocking mosfet really. The resting/start up position your piston(s) are in is not a problem. Over a few years yes the spring will take a set/weaken, so what. If your that worried pull the spring or motor or ARL if you plan to store them for verrrrry long periods.

It’s really not a massive concern, just think if it as a mild mechanical pre-cock! Parts wise/compatibility that’s a good setup you have there now. Mild AB is nice, but you need a fancier FeT to do that. 100% AB is just to harsh on the motor and makes so much heat.

That sounds pretty good, always hard to judge sound and colour on videos. Sounds like you’re in the low 20s RPS 👍 With the gears in the gearbox shell bolted up you should be able to spin them with you finger easily. If you can see your pinion/bevel mesh, you should have full mesh, but not in to deep. There should be a very small amount of backlash between them. Other than that you need to make sure you have decent wiring gauge, 16awg. Are you running active brake, that will be what is heating the motor most. Only on Semi auto. Will run cooler on Auto. It is good practice to drill air vents in the grip. V2 gearboxes don’t have a nice heat sink motor cage like V3s

Apples and oranges 😂

I reckon an 18k would see around 22 RPS. Which IMO sounds and performs excellent for a burst at a target in dense cover.

Made a typo soz, cheapest and easiest setup is; Same build as you have done already BUT use an 18000rpm motor.

It’s not quite as simple as just bolting ‘X’ parts together to achieve 30 RPS reliably. You need to adjust AOE and short stroke it to prevent what has happened (PME) from happening again. Like @Sitting Duck explained. 30 RPS is pointless IMO - accuracy and ammo consumption is crap. 20-24 is a usable rate of fire, and you don’t have to worry about PME. Get a motor that turns around 18000rpm, run that with all your other parts and you’ll be sorted.

All the best! Keen to get out there in 2021!