RostokMcSpoons

I lost a mag at the skirmish site on Saturday, so I bought another. Does it work? Does it buggery. And I'm talking about two different AR's I tried it in. The common theme seems to be the standard short 300-330 round high high caps will work fine in my Double Eagle M906, my Classic Army AR15, and my Tippmann M4... and even my F2000 (back in the distant past when it actually fired) But the longer mags seem to cause problems (excepting the F2000 which came with one of them) - the other guns instantly become (as my step mother says) "Fussy whiskers". Either they won't accept the mag nicely into the mag well, or they don't feed consistently. So what's the story with M4 mags? And should I abort my intended purchase of Lonex flash mags, because I suspect they'll be the same form?

There's a company called Red Dot Engineering who sell better front sight protectors on eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/reddotengineering They use pellet-proof plastic, rather than the sacrificial stuff on those flip-up ones, and they'll 3D-print stuff to specific dimensions (to slip over the outside of the sight) I ordered a custom one for this Walther red dot, and apart from the fact it was a stupidly tight fit (I'd recommend adding 1mm to the required diameter), it's pretty damned good for £9. Very fast turnaround on it too. Also pictured the standard one they sell for the Amazon-special 'Coyote' sight. That's fits a bit loose, recommend gluing it in place or it'll get knocked off.

One of those times when the camo really pays off... I was covering a flag point from there, I ended up chewing through more than 3 high cap's worth of ammo (much of it in semi) because it took so long for anyone to spot me and then get a decent shot at me

I've had another look at the hop rubbers, to do a bit of 'forensic analysis' The original one has that slightly folded lip that caused the curving is otherwise undamaged. It looks like a Macaron Yellow, for reference, so quite soft. The cheapo one I replaced it with, which feels as hard as nails and could probably survive WW3 (which might be handy), is completely pristine. The Guarder Clear looks 'unhappy'. So yeah the nozzle might be 'doing something' to the rubbers, but hopefully it's a matter of fine margins. Rather than trying to shim the nozzle, could I shorten it a tiny bit? I put the cheapo hop rubber back in. It might not be soft enough to hop heavy BBs, but it ought to keep a good air seal. And things are getting 'interesting' in that I've dialled out the Dwell Mod grub screw, and with that I've seen the FPS reach as high as 380. But the consistency is still all over the place. I messed around with the hop (re-applying some) and the Dwell screw some more, and the last few shots got figures of 297-326. I've got the feeling I'm not a million miles away from it working properly... but I might need a new O-ring or something to make it happen.

That's excellent news! Now prepare your bank balance for regular 'beastings' 😋

When the 'bolt' travels forward, it goes up against a solid block that is effectively part of the upper receiver... I'm sure I could shim that in such a way as to back the nozzle off a little. The problem is the gun could eat quite a hop rubbers before I get it right 😕

Sorry - somehow missed this reply - yes, it's the only site I've played at since returning to the fun'n'games, but I intend to give Finmere and Sentinel (The Outpost, nr Dunstable) a go, as they're both quite close too. I think m'wife will complain if I do this tooooo often though

Thinking about how I'm losing air, I wondered if there should be a barrel spring on my gun. So I've just pulled the inner barrel out. No spring, but then I've looked at the Tippmann M4 manual (for the v1) and there's no spring shown in the exploded diagrams. However, it did show I've got a damaged hop rubber. It seems the gun likes to damage the end of it... ... it's split a little on both sides. I'm not sure if that damage is enough to account for the low and variable velocity though. (The original rubber was deformed on the right hand side, creating a nub of material that made the BB's curve to the right) Is this a sign that the nozzle isn't aligning correctly? It does look very slightly low and to the left when viewed here: edit: I put the gun back together, but first I wrapped some PTFE tape around the hop rubber (at the muzzle end of it) My gun has had the 'dwell mod' done to it, so for shits and giggles I screwed that in a bit too. And when I chrono'd it (no hop applied now)... it's still variable. But perhaps a little better?

Stonking day at special ops yesterday, beautiful weather, a more reasonable player count of around 60 people meant there was more chance to push, and reasonably balanced teams all added up to a good day Personally I had some tech issues.. I brought my new Tippmann HPA M4 along, expecting to actually use that for the whole day, but ended up not using it at all - instead the trusty Double Eagle M906c was my choice throughout. And I got a mountain of kills with it, thanks to it reaching out a decent distance and me getting in some good positions or just being outright reckless with some pushes with some hip-fire suppression as I attacked. Possibly my best day of Airsoft since I started playing again in November ☺️

I found a video that shows the wide bore is less accurate and had no greater range. Other opinions are available but that was an actual test, though not particularly scientific (firing into the distance and saying "that's better / that's worse is not the same as measuring group sizes).

Ah, what the hell. I can't find one of these here already, so I'm going to be bold and create this, as a collection point for questions and knowledge sharing. I've just bought a used M4 V2. It's not yet working as I'd like... When I tried it on the range yesterday I was only getting 30-35m of range. When I chrono'd it the reason became clear... 150fps! Cue some confusion as to how to adjust the power output on the gun, as the manual only covers the v1 model, and it's changed in the v2. (Turns out it's the grub screw that's at an angle in the larger plastic part of the bolt) I think it started all the way in, reducing power to the minimum (the previous owner used this mostly in cqb I think so may not have noticed?). I didn't really know what I was doing so had to keep talking everything apart, tweaking the setting then putting it back together and re-chronoing. I think eventually I got flustered enough to start turning it the wrong way. Anyway the peak FPS I reached was still just 260 with 0.28g BB's. Need to be up near 280-290 I think, but more importantly the gun (if healthy) should be able to go waaaaaay past that. I've now taken the gun apart again in my house and can see what I'm dealing with, confirmed the air chamber was not blocked by the screw at all. So does that mean I've got an air leak elsewhere? Is there anything else I should be looking at? Edit: Tested on the chrono in my house, it's varying between 240 and 280 FPS. It'll go a few shots at one level before jumping up or down to another. Oh yeah. At the moment it's running without a selector switch as it fell off and got lost when I was doing all the adjustments on the range. So it's stuck on full auto. I need a new one of those too 😟

Thanks, that reminds me to pack the instructions in the gun case and make sure I've got the right size Allen keys in my kit bag! I'm not going to silly-expensive on the BB's, the full auto experience is something I'm going to enjoy as much as possible! But blimey, you can lift 0.48s? That is amazing...!

This is a quick request for opinions as obviously my mileage may vary a great deal from a stock gun... The used gun I bought has a Prometheus tight-bore, and I've just fitted a new Guarder Clear hop rubber on it. It's definitely lifting my 0.28s when hop is applied... so I'm sure 0.30's would be 'safe', but could / should I buy the heaviest ammo in the shop tomorrow (I think it's probably 0.32's but maybe 0.36's) in the hope/expectation that all the magical HPA-ness will be able to lift those, and so increase the (currently rather average) accuracy? ... I just don't want to buy a bottle of 2 or 3 thousand for them to end up on my shelf unused.

Hi @ak2m4 No the motor doesn't work at all now. I've tried turning the axle manually just to make sure it's not a temporary internal jam. It turns (it's quite hard to move, decent magnets?) The red was connected to the red dotted tab, I double checked before pulling the trigger. No MOSFET installed (nor a fuse - perhaps unfortunately) (Amazingly the battery seems to have survived - the plug in tester is reporting voltages on all 3 cells)

So I won that motor, got it for a fiver. What a bargain! Which is kinda handy as I think I've killed it And a battery (probably). I ran the motor outside the gun and it whizzed away like a good 'un on the little 11.1v battery. Put it into the pistol grip, and silence, along with whisps of smoke from the battery. Damn it. Not sure if the motor (which is the right length) was just jammed in in such a way that it couldn't turn, or whatever, but the motor is dead. I connected up the old one, and plugged in a NimH and that still works, so the wiring is ok. Bah. And indeed Humbug.

Yup, it was (mostly) that pinched hop rubber. Put in the rubbish-feeling Cybergun rubber and it 90% fixed it. I've since put in the Guarder Clear that was supposed to go in the AUG High Cycle, and that's improved it further. With the gun in bits I could see the nozzle alignment is actually ok. It's not perfect though. I've dialled in the hop so it's lifting 0.28's on to the aiming point ok. It's still not as accurate as I'd like, most of the shots are good, but I'm getting a few fliers (some dropping low, some curving slightly left or right)... which might be a combination of the air seals needing lubing / improving, and the hop rubber needing time to bed in. As an HPA noob I'm very open to suggestions. I might well buy a small bottle of 0.32's to see if it'll lift those, for a start. It's great to fire though, a real step-up from AEGs and a world away from the couple of 'normal' HPAs I've fired I suspect I might still yearn for some 'laser-beam' accuracy before long though. Perhaps I'll try a wide-bore barrel in there, to replace the Prommy tight-bore, as I'm not really fussed about efficiency. Edit: Here's a wide-bore I'd seen mentioned in a video last night, and as it happens it's reviewed by a Tippmann user... https://www.thecageairsoft.co.uk/orga-magnushd-barrel-widebore-6-13mm-aeg/#review

I agree with what @Tactical Pith Helmet said (twice) The Double Eagles don't come in tan, but don't be afraid to pop down to Halfords and buy their khaki matte camo paint - it's really easy to paint a gun, and the Halfords stuff leaves a nice finish

Is there not a problem with pairing some MOSFETS with brushless motors? I'm sure I've seen that, could have been when I was looking at Gates and Peruns...

I'll be taking it apart soon, but I spent a bit more time looking down the barrel from the muzzle end, and the nozzle does look a little high and to the side. I'm hoping there are some built-in adjusters to fine-tune the nozzle alignment, I need to have a dig through the manuals etc I've contacted the seller so he knows there's a discussion to be had if this can't be sorted easily. Hopefully it won't come to that! Edit: took it apart, I think the hop rubber got pinched and so its impinging on the right side of the barrel... Hopefully that's the problem!

As I can't yet work out how to disassemble the gun (beyond splitting the receiver), I've so far only looked down the barrel from the muzzle end, illuminating with my phone's light through the feed tube (with a stick of paper positioned to bounce the light around the corner - it works though) I can't see any obvious dirt in the barrel. I can tell I've got the hop all the way off, but when I apply hop it seems to be being applied from the top correctly, and it seems aligned. There's a thread on another forum which mentions the possibility that the nozzle doesn't align correctly with the barrel until it's forced into the correct position at the last moment as it moves forward, and that therefore some of the air may be thrusting on the bb from the side rather than directly behind. Unfortunately the thread hasn't been updated since the idea was postulated in 2018, but if it's true I've no idea that would get fixed It has (allegedly) been upgraded with a Prommy tight bore. Maybe it needs a barrel swap. I guess I could stick in the stock barrel from F2000 or my AR15 to see if that makes any difference... once I figure out how to get to it!

Vomiting may be the correct word to use, the darned thing shoots fantastically "PEW PEW PEW" but it has no accuracy, everything curves off to the right at 15m. For a gun with a TDC hop unit, I was not expecting any problems there.

It's a little South of Northampton, but Special Ops at Hollington Wood nr Olney nr Milton Keynes is a smallish, friendly woodland site The location details are in this page... https://www.specialopshq.co.uk/contact Carlos and his marshals will make you very welcome but feel free to give me a shout too 😊 As for a good M4, quite a few of us are running Double Eagle M90x and are happy with them, plenty of threads on this forum about them. Carlos sells the 907c on site for £220 (should be less than that but the stock shortages are boosting prices)

The engine in the asg scorpion is a custom factory fit thing. It'd be fine. It's moot now, I bought the Tippmann! Wow that thing is fun to shoot. I had in the back of my mind to one day get a gbbr, this is going to scratch the itch with its dramatic noise and recoil. I just hope the range can exceed my DE. Yes the scuba tank has plenty of time before the next inspection due. Small problem is I need to smuggle the gun into the house as the wife doesn't know. What the hell can I say if she spots the scuba tank 🤣🤣🤣 it'll have to live in the boot of the car 😆

Thanks Adolf. I looked at the Scorpion again yesterday. It wouldn't shoot. He plugged in the air and it kept coming out of the gun on the first attempt. Pulling out the line and reattaching it, nothing came out. It was a borrowed tank with its own regulator, could that have caused the issue? The battery was charged, could hear the solenoid clicking when the trigger was pulled. It's probably something simple but I think that's rather killed that option! Anyway the result of that is I found my heart says I want the Tippmann or the Wolverine. And the Wolverines are sold out everywhere. I may be looking at a used Tippmann v2 today, it comes with a few bits and pieces and minor upgrades: tight bore barrel and bucking. And a big secondary air cylinder to keep in the car... Problem is I'll only be able to shoot it at short range, so I'll get no idea if it will really outshoot my DE enough to justify the outlay

Yeah, thanks, I saw that a few days ago, already put a low-ish offer in and had it rejected 🤪 I'll wait to the last moment and snipe it, and if that doesn't work there's another motor going at ~£30 that I can pick up (Matrix 3000, no idea whether they're any good) And if all that fails, well tbh I don't mind too much. I found I can pick up an ICS at £41 from Action Hobbies, which is here in MK.