Fatboy40

I like an easy life, so I'll be the boring one and say that I use Nuprol as it's a good one stop shop and predictable. Green equals around 60% of the year for me in a slightly tweaked AAP-01 and red when temps are around 10 degrees centigrade or less (I've made a personal decision to never use black). Shots are consistent and I know that my mags will remain pretty much gas tight, with shots of Abbey maintenance gas when I won't be using them for a while. I rarely need to disassemble my mags to oil up the o-rings, I've never needed to replace any o-rings, and as a side-arm I've not noticed the slight amount of silicon affect grouping / range on 0.32g.

Won't be playing until mid-Feb, however just playing around with it... # It's perfectly clear. # The illuminated reticle is really good with clean edges. # The zoom is quite stiff to move, even with the throw lever (hopefully this will loosen with time) ... and as a one stop package, considering everything you get with it, I'm very happy (and it's passed the teenage son test, he wants one).

Raising my DMR game... https://i.imgur.com/sd8pVp8.jpg ... and helping my failing middle-ages eyesight ?

I swear by both types of these... https://www.airsoftworld.net/6mm-proshop-re-enforced-350rd-speed-loader-multiple-colours.html ... pistol and M4 mag type. With the metal tip they don't fall apart and seem to load far easier.

Which is why my AEG is completely setup / upgraded to shoot nothing lighter than 0.32g and I run my DMR setup / upgraded for no lighter than 0.40g. I can get maybe 90% of other players due to the extra range without them getting me, so if I get hit by someone when at range I bow my head to the better player ?

Playing just before Xmas 2023 my DMR shat itself, only a few minutes into the first game, a grinding noise and then no nozzle movement. I assumed that I'd stripped a gear, but had to wait until Jan 2024 to take a look as I didn't buy any parts before AK2M4 closed for the holidays. Taking it apart today it was totally not what I expected, in that the screw holding the Maxx Model piston head onto the XT full metal rack piston had worked loose and somehow jammed the piston in its rear most position (and the M130 spring had a few kinks in it). I had used Loctite, but it was a bit on the old side and a quick Google says that it does have a shelf life so my bad Everything else was good though so got a new XT piston from my spare parts box, along with an XT piston head with bearing and fitted them. I also decided to swap to SHS 18:1 gears and go from a 4/5ths cylinder to a closed / full one so moved down to a new XT M120 spring to first test with. All is good, however with the full cylinder and M120 I'm now just a fraction of a Joule off of the DMR limit for my local site so I'm well chuffed with that Secretly I'm hoping that the full cylinder will equal an extra foot or two of range, so can't wait to play again.

Red Alert in Newbury do them a few times a year... https://www.facebook.com/RedAlertPaintballNewbury/?locale=en_GB

Improved accuracy, grouping of shots and ability to lift heavy BB's. The hop unit in the AAP-01 is way better than the stock WE EU17 one anyhow, but a better bucking makes a big difference (I run a Maple Leaf 60 degree silicon Autobot with 0.32g BB's, and the bucking gets them noticeably further and has a huge effect on grouping). For full auto start with the hammer, it really need to be done otherwise it will fail. But to be honest full auto is a bit pointless, unless you're going HPA, with cool down etc (it's very snappy on semi out of the box and it's so easy to improve).

Replace the hammer, even the second gen one, with... https://www.empireairsoft.co.uk/aap01-tm-g18c-cnc-steel-hammer.html ... and you'll get no mechanical faults (the Cow Cow hammer set can be temperamental). Swap in a Autobot or Flamingo bucking and you'll hop BB's over 0.30g with no issues, change to a Hadron Loki and you'll hop 0.40g or higher. It's not a silent sidearm but massively better than a WE EU17 Gen4 (accuracy, gas efficiency) and you can use your Gen4 mags My son and I use them as our side arms, however the 1st gen hammer did fail on mine...

All looking forward to the annual Xmas game at Ironsight Airsoft, 30 minutes in and my DMR shat itself, I think a stripped gear ? Still, a good day with my AEG, loads of my son's friends were there so he had a great time, and a great way to end the airsoft year.

The Jefftron Leviathan will give you pre-cocking and control over the level of active braking, but unless the original Falcon controller shat itself there's really no need to replace it (and a GATE Titan v2 would have been a better direct replacement for various reasons). "Full auto only" may not be a problem in itself, maybe worst case scenario the sticker on the selector plate that optical sensors pickup may be damaged or badly aligned, and you can buy these as spare parts for a couple of quid (sticker packs)... https://www.jefftron.net/cache/images/full/leviathan-v2-optical-in-package.jpg ... however, if it's not that then worst case we're looking at a maybe shagged Leviathan? I'm assuming it's the wireless one so you can connect to it with a smartphone app to see what the sensors say when you manually move the selector plate? The selector may be a challenge as they're ambidextrous, with a little toothed cog that sits outside the gearbox shell, and I've no idea if it's a generic ambi-selector so you can easily get a replacement.

I've a CYMA MP5K that's sat idle in a cupboard at the moment, bought used with three mags, but it's waiting until I can install a GATE Titan v3 into it (so we're talking controller / ETU rather than just a MOSFET). The plan is that I'll gain... # Custom trigger sensitivity, the standard "pull" on the MP5K is shocking and goes on and on and on... # I only ever want to use it on semi, so all selector settings will be semi only. # With so little battery space I want a controller that will support brushless motors, so still using 7.4v I get a snappy trigger with one. ... and with starting a new job on Monday, that will make me around £160 a month better off, hopefully it'll happen soon ?

They had so much stuff didn't they... but after scanning it all not a single thing floated my boat, there must be something wrong with me (plus a little bit of me is keeping a few pennies safe in case @ak2m4 sells his brushless motors).

These guys are usually my "go to" place for random GBB pistol parts... https://www.milspecsolutions.co.uk/ ... and I was hoping they'd have a WE part that you could but they don't. However maybe send them an e-mail as they may have something used in a parts bin they could sell you?

Another vote here for Accu, also if you're buying from them they do a pistol grip sized screw that has a hex head so that you won't strip it so I'd buy a few of those as well (I'll try and find the part number from when I bought a few). Edit: The pistol grip screw is "Part No: SSBF-M3-6-A2-BL (M3 x 6mm Socket Flanged Button Screws (ISO 7380-2) - Black Stainless Steel (A2))"

I've bought a few when I've needed to buy something that only BZ Tactical had in stock. No surprises with them, they work exactly as they should, however when a bag of ASG Cursed cost quite a bit less I'd not be going out of my way to buy them.

Personally I'd pick the Blaster's, however if you'll be buying these online (rather than in a site shop) then ASG sell their "Cursed" BB range and they do a 0.28g in this (for example a 1kg bag of them from Patrol Base). My son, and myself occasionally, have been using Cursed 0.28g BB's for ages and they've always been faultless but they're so cheap if you buy them in bulk from Patrol Base (especially if you can save nay other purchases for the same time like some gas).

That's one thing that's been on my list to try, not so much regarding air seal but vibration reduction / consistent inner barrel placement (to improve accuracy / consistency between shots). Do you do this yourself / any tips on it?

@Liamcella96 With an inner barrel of that sort of length look at what people are doing with the G&G Firehawk. Stock this has a 120mm inner barrel, so to get any power from it as stock it also runs an M130 spring (it's the combination of the short inner barrel, strong spring and amplifier on the end that makes it so loud with a loud crack when firing). I've done a lot of work on my son's, which has now become his backup rifle, and with such a short barrel you'll only get genuine power increases with first the spring and then improving your air seal (however getting good improvements on your air seal costs money). Considering all the different inner barrels I've tried with the Firehawk I'd say that you'll want to buy both an M130 and M120 spring from https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/ to hit 1.14J (the M130 will take you very close to the limit, potentially even a little over). Also pulling such a strong spring you may want to consider, money permitting and what's already in the rifle, a full metal rack on the piston and a high torque motor.

@Wavey_Gravey Ta, any idea why?

The guy is also the owner of Bespoke Airsoft so use them as a means to get hold of him, also he has a YouTube channel.

You need to read my post again you silly sausage as I said this ?

Personally it's the CTM all the way for me as you can mount absolutely anything you want on the AAP-01 and still use it (edit: even the foldable stock if you want, and I did this for a short while), plus it comes with included attachments for both belts and molle (however for molle you'll need a Malice clip). Two things to be aware of though are always use thread lock with its bolts so they don't work lose and it does not work with adjustable / speed triggers.

A lot of airsoft retailers, UK and mainland Europe, seem to use DHL so it may be worthwhile checking if they can do it with insurance for you (for example Novritsch use DHL for RIF's shipped to the UK).

I could be horribly wrong but isn't it the case that red tracers are not properly illuminated by all tracer units? If correct then that's the reason as why make a niche product for something that's inherently niche?