Fatboy40

I can't remember if this is mine or someone else's Google Drive... https://drive.google.com/file/d/15npk1PM_xZuPK7iq8uv-6dGuvi2mqTRz/view?fbclid=IwAR36uGD575BIxHxZKdy7LmaixHZqAnEkjojmOEYP0qmlT1cwm7wIkB2IM38 ... but hopefully you can view it (ignore that the mag adapter on the top is not a Glock style). In the end I got rid of my one, which I used with an AAP-01, as it was just so bloody unreliable with the spring always failing.

Roll the dice and let us know ? Seriously though, after buying an AK2M4 brushless and the Falcon controller telling it to ef off (it's now in my MP5K and the trigger response on 7.4v is instant), I want to get a Warhead Base and try it. I'm hoping that the firmware in their speed controller has something magical, but if not there are other plastic ball shooting toys I can put it in.

All the way from Slovakia a selection of Snipetor R Hop patches... https://i.imgur.com/r1bAZwL.jpg ... and a bonus Wikipedia page for the lady on the stamp... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krista_Bendová

If there's enough time for the delivery, and you don't mind a slight change, Warhead Industries do 0.32 and 0.43 bios which you can trust.

I'm wondering if the T238 being shorter is potentially a positive, if not too short, considering the end bell on brushless motors seem to foul up on pistol grip end plates? I suppose almost all RIF's are designed with brushed motors so play to that.

I've tried to resist buying a Warhead specific motor, but I've a feeling that their firmware is somewhat more advanced than some other vendors and it's designed to play better with controllers / ETU's (it would be a Base, plus I want to compare its behaviour against the ak2m4 one when used with a Double Eagle Falcon controller).

Maybe I should have said that what I meant was every man and his dog is now selling brushless motors, even the traditionally cheapo Chinese manufacturers. They can't all have production lines and tooling setup to make them, unless some are drastically cutting corners (which looking at the Chaoli PCB is a possibility).

Something interesting is that bargain basement Chinese motor manufacturer Chaoli is also now selling brushless motors. Maybe this is one for @ak2m4 but I'm assuming, like a lot of electronics, there may only be a few genuine manufacturers of brushless motors and a lot of what we see is from the same sources with different branding applied? (the products from many vendors look identical, just with different colour anodising / logo's applied).

The "additional plates" are so that you can mount it on molle using a "malice clip" (which is how I mount mine to a battle belt). CTM TAC have a YouTube channel that shows you how to do this.

Maybe Socom Tactical or Surplus Store? (Also a bit of dirt or grease on the sector gear optical sensors can throw them out)

If anything shorter, in that it's highly likely that the nozzle is ever so slightly too long for the hop unit so when pulled back a BB cannot always enter it (especially if you're firing rapidly). Vernier callipers and a selection of nozzles in your own "airsoft parts bin" always helps

To me it sounds like with the Maxx Model hop unit upgrade was matched to the wrong length nozzle, and with the Kythera engine the nozzle is still the wrong length. Maxx do specify an expected nozzle length with their hop units, with the three RIF's I have personally upgraded to them all having their nozzles changed at the same time, and they work perfectly (and all showed a noticeable joule increase). Regarding your BB curve the inner barrel may have just twisted slightly or maybe the nub (if you're not using a solid metal one that sits perfectly in the Maxx hop unit).

@ak2m4Finally got around to sorting out my semi-boneyard CMYA MP5K, needed a v3 spring guide from you as I disassembled the gearbox last weekend and the ball bearing cage just fell apart So, running your brushless motor along with a GATE Titan v3, and I've now a nice little nippy SMG ? AB is set to manual and zero percent, but anything else you recommend for GATE Titan users with your motor?

Well... some people actually can and do. There are some who with an AAP-01, along with the Loki + appropriate bucking + inner barrel to support an appropriate bucking's patch + 0.40g or heavier BB's, can be effective at DMR / sniper ranges. If I had the money my AAP-01 would be setup like this, shooting 0.40g, but I've not yet won the lottery

Which model of hop unit is it? For example is is the M4A-PRO that comes with the solid metal concave nub? An option for you, if you wish to lift heavy BB's, is to go with both a Maple Leaf inner barrel and the MR bucking as the ML inner barrel is intentionally designed to support the unique features of the MR bucking. In combination with the appropriate nub for your hop unit you'll be able to lift very heavy BB's so that's one thing ticked off of the list of DMR tasks.

And site's always ask at chrono for confirmation of how your controller is configured, hooking up GATE GCS or looking for the right blinking Perun LED's Personally I've zero interest in Milsim and the four places I semi-regularly play at have no "real steel" rules for DMR's, so I'm fine as well. However, under all the camo I have now on my DMR they'd only be able to identify the base gun if I removed it all.

@Jmason98 That's shit isn't it If it turns out you're stuck with it then Negative Airsoft has a very long CYMA MP5K video on his Patreon channel that shown pretty much a complete disassembly and rebuild, so really useful for the v3 gearbox MP5K's (I've finally bought a GATE Titan v3 so started to work on my "boneyard" CYMA MP5K at the weekend that I bough almost a year ago, but I'm a bit stuck as the ball bearing cage on the spring guide is knackered so waiting for AK2M4 to open his web shop again to get one)

I'm going to be the annoying one and say unless your heart is set on the kick from a metal slide going back and forth the AAP-01 is a way better and cheaper choice (and uses Gen 4 mags). You benefit from better gas efficiency, a way better hop unit, and better accuracy. To get my son's WE EU17 G4 to match a stock AAP-01, for hop and accuracy, needed a Maple Leaf hop unit + bucking + better inner barrel.

It's hard to justify but I'd take a Titan over an Aster, and do you really need the Expert firmware or are you buying the kit so you get the adapter to use GCS? Also with a Titan you'll be able to use Maxx Model triggers. Dump the Nuprol motor and get a 22 TPA one from @ak2m4, the one with the "fan", so much better and probably cheaper. Personally I'd drop the Prometheus everything and go with Maple Leaf for the inner barrel and marry it with an MR bucking to get great hop (an out of the box r-hop that require very little pressure with the right bucking hardness). Also, if they're the same price I'd drop the Gate hop unit and go with a Max Model M4A-PRO as it has so many better nub options that come with it (the hard concave nub with the MR bucking's is great). Finally think about swapping the spring in-front of the hop unit with rubber o-rings, you get a better air seal plus less vibration, so you may then get away with an M105.

Damn, if only I knew this sooner, I'd just slip a few carboard boxes from Aldi over my body parts and I'd be invisible ?

Umm... not if you're dressed in Adidas trackies and one of those CoD skull mask thingies, you stick out like a sore thumb and are begging to be hit. Are you intentionally being a troll?

So because of some idiots, that could and should have been dealt with by the marshals, a legitimate style of playing (where some may have spent quite a bit of time and money) is being cancelled. That's not really fair is it, but I suppose it absolves a few marshals from having to do their job correctly.

If you live close to Dogtag then maybe get yourself over to Socom Tactical or Surplus Store before you play and get a stronger VSR spring, and you may be lucky and they can help you fit it there and then if you bring your pew pew with you