Fatboy40

(For context I run a DE M908A as a DMR, with plenty of upgrades to it, shooting 0.40g and have used ZCI plastic hop units in DE M908A's + M904E's + M906C's) I've bought quite a few ZCI plastic M4 / AR15 hop units and they're substantially better than the stock DE ones. The plastic is way stronger, the arm is better (especially if your stock arm is the one that retains the odd DE figure of 8 rubber nub), the pin holding the arm in place is metal and not flimsy plastic like the DE one. Pair it with a Maple Leaf Macaron bucking and an Omega nub and you're good to go (make sure the Omega nub is absolutely dead center). As Speedbird said the ZCI metal unit offers zero benefit over the plastic one. Also, from my perspective, the only reason to go with a hop unit even more expensive than the ZCI plastic if if you need to hop VERY heavy BB's and get into things like r-hop.

The official Action Army RMR adapter?... https://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/action-army-aap-01-steel-rmr-adapter-front-sight-set ... which is a straight swap. If it's something else they may be able to help you here... https://old.reddit.com/r/AAP01owners/

That's you and two others now I beat to it, you have to be faster than Usain Bolt to buy something from their boneyard ? (I love the GCS app too much, looking at stats and other nerdy things, so I'm a GATE fan boy I'm afraid) Edit: Oh, and my son wants it off of me now ?

An Action Hobbies boneyard CYMA CM.041K for only £55 with three mags... ... which once I'm happy with it will become my DMR sidearm (sorry AAP-01). It's a bit stroppy on semi though, so will have to be disassembled and examined (... and if I'm taking it apart I may as well fit a GATE Titan v3 basic, justifying it to myself that it still just costs less than a new one).

I've had one of these for 15 months now... https://www.combatsouth.co.uk/element-aim-o-g33-magnifier-x3-black/ ... and it's been spot on, using it on both my DMR and 1.14J AEG. The magnification has been doing exactly what I expected of it and also helping with my less than stellar ageing eyesight. I specifically went with this Aim-O clone as others had said the mount had zero wobble, and I've had none from it as well

Yep, watched that, he does like to moan about things that get his own personal goat doesn't he ?

A Maple Leaf MR bucking, with a Maple Leaf AEG inner barrel so that the unusual MR patch sits perfectly and supports the "ring" on the bucking for the air-seal, and then say a Maxx Model M4A-PRO hop unit used with its solid metal concave nub is an out of the box great solution for range and consistency (I've a couple of Retro Arms CNC hop units, bought recently, and they're trash compared to the M4A-PRO). Yes it costs but it's all just off the shelf components that require little skill to install, not much can go wrong if at all, and the results for me have been so worth it.

Be interested if you've ever been to Camouflage Airsoft up the road in Alton, I've been there quite a few times, and how it compares.

With time, effort and money you can tweak / get a standard 1.14 Joule AEG to shoot quite far if using a decent BB weight like 0.32g, certainly to the point where you can stand 10 meters further away than other players on your teams and shoot the exact opposition that they're engaging and know that most of the opposition players BB's will fall short and not get you. If you go on YouTube "Negative Airsoft" is spot on when he says in one video from 2023 that you can build an all purpose battle rifle that can be used for CQB and then the next moment be used as a half way house to a DMR when outside (it's what my M904E is now). I do enjoy having my DMR though, especially as I'm 50 / not that fit, and I'll play the morning with it then swap to my M904E after lunch. The major downside of running a DMR though is that you MUST have a sidearm as you'll only be able to shoot at people if they're over a certain distance away from you (MED, aka "Minimum Engagement Distance"). So, once say an enemy gets closer than 15 meters to you you'll need to use your sidearm / pistol to shoot them as getting hit close range with a heavy BB bloody hurts and will draw blood even through clothing. My sidearm is a mildly upgraded AAP-01. Others have recommended parts from AK2M4, and this parts supplier is damned good and is happy to answer questions, so if as your post all you want is to shoot at around 400 FPS on 0.20g BB's with your M908A then I've a feeling that a GearParts / XT M120 spring will be the safest option for you (possibly an M130, but if one day you're building a DMR I'd buy both anyhow as they're so cheap). This will give you the raw power, but your air volume etc. will not be high enough, so don't expect to become a lethal killer on the field Also the inner barrel you have is good enough, you don't really need to replace it, but I did with mine as I took it to the next level and wanted a Maple Leaf inner barrel to get a 100% perfect fit with the ML MR bucking (which with the right nub is a simple to install R-Hop).

Everywhere I play would not let you use it as a DMR under those circumstances, it has to be a mechanical and not software lock.

@Stillers80 I run my M908A as a DMR, with an M130 spring shooting 0.40g BB's. I'll read through this thread but feel free to bombard me with questions if I can help at all Edit: This is pretty much how it looks at the moment... https://i.imgur.com/z0AVJpA.jpg ... but with the metal receiver being a lot more worn plus a an IMI Defense vertical grip on the handguard. Edit 2: Be careful about what you expect you'll be getting regarding a DMR from just a spring change, as to get a genuinely effective DMR you have to go way beyond that. For example, off the top of my head, these are what have been swapped into my M908A (lots of parts from AK2M4)... - 410mm Maple Leaf (aka ML) AEG inner barrel. - ML 70 degree MR bucking. - ML Omega nub. - ZCI rotary hop unit (the stock hop unit has a pants arm). - Maxx Model 21.25mm nozzle. - Maxx Model cylinder head. (However, I'd personally say that the "XT M4 CYLINDER HEAD ALUMINIUM (PAD)" is as good if not better) - ZCI 4/5 cylinder. - XT 14 tooth CNC rack piston. - GearParts / XT M130 spring. - XT 22 TPA high torque motor. ... at some point I'll buy a Maxx Model M4A-PRO hop unit for it, like I have in my DE M904E, as they're just so good and the solid metal nub work perfectly with the ML MR bucking (don't buy a Retro Arms CNC hop unit as they don't fit in the DE M900's, plus the finishing on two I bought were poor with noticeable burrs).

Of the three DE M900's I have I've opened the gearboxes of two of them with the work that I've done on them, and both had a single shim either side of each of the three gears (I've no idea how thick the shims are though). DE manufacture masses of various toys in China (some of their "Lego" like construction vehicles look amazing), and like you I doubt that they shim each and every gearbox uniquely.

Get one of these... https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-1-4-hex-magnetic-screwdriver-bit-holder/7698v ... and the buffer tube is off in the blink of an eye ?

The DE stock hop unit is not that great, the arm lets it down, and you're downright buggered if you've got the arm that has the nub embedded in it (the figure eight nub where the top of it is inside the arm). I've a Maxx Model M4A-PRO in my M904E, and a ZCI rotary in my M908A, with the M4A-PRO with the solid metal / TDC nub lifting absolutely anything you want it to with minimal pressure so you don't strip the BB of its energy. I've a Retro Arms CNC AR15 hop unit on the way for the M908A and I'll then be able to directly compare the two (the Maxx does have some lovely features, BB latch + window + numbered dial etc., but the Retro Arms has the same solid metal / TDC nub which is what I'm after really).

@Enid_Puceflange How mirrored is the front glass / how clear is it? (I desperately want a clearer Eotech clone... or a lottery win).

Watching it I'm thinking "wow, that no.6 clone one is so clear"... then I realise it's a genuine Eotech ?

Have you decided on what weight BB's you're going to use ? The technical side of DMR'ing was straight forward for me, change single part / evaluate change / move onto next part, but getting the right weight was harder as was the hit to my wallet ? (0.40g)

Drops straight in, I've not had to alter the motor height for any of them. I've had a noticeable improvement in trigger response on semi, the torque difference is night and day, and a tiny improvement on RoF. DE told me that the stock Chaoli motor is 19,000 RPM, however they didn't say at what voltage, and I use 11.1v.

@RostokMcSpoons Stonking motor for the price... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/xt-high-torque-motor-22tpa-long-fan ... got one in all of my DE M900's now ?

A Double Eagle M900 is more of an "upgrade" than an SSR4.

Well, they're cheaper than a Novritsch SSR4 ? (nudge nudge, wink wink).

From this photo it looks like micro-switches... https://eu.novritsch.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/ETU_SSR4-600x600.jpg ... and for a rifle that costs around £270 (with the metal receiver) I'd maybe be expecting something a bit better? (in the context of what you get with a Double Eagle M900 or a Specna Arms with a GATE Aster).

The example I'll give is the G&G Firehawk, a perfect CQB sized AEG, only a 120mm inner barrel but as stock is around 320'ish FPS on 0.20g BB's. It does this as it has both a full cylinder and an M130 spring, masses of air volume and a piston pushed forward like an F1 car.

Negative Airsoft is in love with them so they must be good Seriously though they've got a very good rep, and the 32's and 28's I bought were spot on (and I noticed quite a few players furtively looking at the bags due to the Warhead name and logo), but it's hard to get a really poor BB unless you spend peanuts on them.

Warhead Industries sell their BB's in some pretty big sizes, e.g. up to 20 kg, but the shipping costs can kill.