SSPKali

TM M733, Vortex red dot, TacBelts minimalist sling, Scout light clone on genuine Magpul mount (butchered by me) and an E&C non-clone correct grip (fight me!) Internally it has 16:1 gears short stroked 4 teeth (2 pickup / 2 release) shimmed and Warhead HS motor. XT M110 spring is giving 275fps (+/-1fps, ~1J) on Warhead 0.28g BBs and a grouping of 30mm at 10m from a clamped position. ML Macaron 50deg and hard nub do the hard work there! Response and rate of fire on a 7.4v 20c LiPo is excellent without getting into w*nker gun territory and resorting to MOSFETs and such. I am after a rubber stock pad (the shorter type, all ones I have found are 30% longer than the butt plate!) and maybe an E&C metal receiver as the handle on the TM polymer one cracked and is held together with glue....not the most stable optic mounting!

It looks like the thread will be the smaller one for Butane-mix camping stoves, not the larger Propane ones. Will pop out to the shed later and check as I have both types and a Madbull knock-off fill valve EDIT - yeah they are different- see pic

No but the Hao bolt end and AG steel buffer gives a nice kick! I have an AG Alu buffer and a DP lightweight bolt if I need to reduce the gas consumption / run it in single digit weather.

Is it just the little aluminium valve part that goes in the nozzle? If just that there won't be much (if any difference) but it might be a little more consistent than the stock TM one. If you include the spring that comes with it is a) longer and b) stronger so you will get a jump in FPS - probably 10-15fps from my testing a couple of years ago. Nothing amazing if you are after ALL THE FPS's!!!!!!!!1!!!!1!!! Don't use the DP nozzles though, they are brittle plastic and won't last a mag! TM, Guns Modify or G&P for that (although my AngryGun v2 is working ok....)

This is most outdoor games I asked ChatGTP: Q: What is the best upgrade for my Airsoft replica? A: The best upgrade for your Airsoft replica depends on your specific needs and preferences, as well as the current state of your replica. However, here are some popular upgrade options that you can consider: Hop-up unit: Upgrading the hop-up unit can improve the accuracy and range of your Airsoft replica. A high-quality hop-up unit can also provide a more consistent and stable trajectory for your BBs. Inner barrel: A high-quality inner barrel can also improve the accuracy and range of your Airsoft replica. Look for a barrel that is made of quality materials and has a good level of precision. Spring: Upgrading the spring can increase the velocity of your Airsoft replica, which can be useful for certain types of gameplay. Gearbox: Upgrading the gearbox can improve the overall performance and reliability of your Airsoft replica. Look for a gearbox that is made of durable materials and has good quality components. Battery and charger: Upgrading the battery and charger can improve the performance and longevity of your Airsoft replica. Look for high-quality batteries and chargers that are compatible with your Airsoft replica. Remember, when upgrading your Airsoft replica, it is important to research and choose quality components from reputable manufacturers. It is also a good idea to consult with experienced Airsoft players or a professional technician for advice and assistance. Damn this thing is going to replace the forum!

Pistol belt set up, just the bits I need for CQB or in support of the M4 / SADF M83. Shout out to the KydexCustoms adapter to fit the holster to the mid ride plate and Tactical-kit for the extra pistol Kywi (and free stickers I forgot to add to the cart!) USP in Amomax holster, KydexCustoms BFG holder, LBX med pouch, DirectAction dump pouch with double pistol Kywi in it, extra Kywi infront.

So finished* the M733. Warhead high speed motor, G&G 16:1 gears short stroked 2 pickup/2 release, metal bushings and shimed. Lightweight piston with 14tooth metal rack and new POM head, 3/4 cylinder. XT M110 spring and radiused the gearbox shell. E&C pistol grip as the TM one was uncomfortable and screws for motor cover very lose. Macaron 50deg rubber and cylindrical hop nub with steel core from Firefly nub. Polished the brass barrel with Autosol and cleaned with Isopropyl alcohol. Shooting 0.28g Warhead ammo (its preferred food from todays tests) at 275fps plus or minus 2fps tops. 30mm square grouping at 10m. 15rps in full auto with a 7.4v block LiPo, not that I will use that often. Vortex red dot, Tacbelts minimalist sling, scout light on Magpul mount and 100mph tape to hold the switch finish off the gun. Looking forward to running it next weekend at UCAP VENDETTA. * for a given value of “finished” still looking at an E&C metal upper and lower receiver! IMG_2039.MOV

Just tested all the BBs I own in my new (to me) TM M733. 300mm polished brass barrel, Macaron 50deg rubber, shooting 320fps on 0.20g. RIF was clamped, and some warm up shots fired and hop set. 10 shots fired at 10m and the diagonal of the box around the hits measured. *Warhead 0.28g - 43mm (30x30mm box!) Longbow tracer 0.30g - 45mm **Greendevil Bio 0.30g - 46mm Warhead 0.32g - 50mm ***Geoffs Super Precision 0.32g - 54mm Amoeba 0.30g - 72mm While it can easily over hop the heavier ammo the M733 likes 0.28 - 0.30g BBs and the Warhead ammo seems really consistent AND a good price! When I can be arsed I’ll check them in my MWS and see what results I get Obviously this was in my gun, with all the quirks and varied performance - YMMV * - Polishing the barrel with cleaning rod and Autosol dropped this from 51mm! ** - Spartan Airsoft specific *** - best in test for my MWS with CrazyJet barrel

Some good advice here, I am looking at losing 3 (maybe 4?) from my build and was going with 2 from release, 1 from pickup but after reading @Adolf Hamster great explanation I think I will lose two pick up, one release to avoid timing issues with the tappet plate. This contradicts what Luke at Negative Airsoft suggests but I guess I can always even it up to 2 / 2 if needed? Ported cylinder and 240mm barrel doesn’t need the piston back that far so would just be wasted energy. I am after a snappy response but not W*nker Gun territory as this is a back up / loaner!

Update - the gearbox was well shimmed and all running well. Spring wasn’t chopped and firmly fitted in the piston (no shifting it!) and not rattling on the guide. I am swapping out the 6mm PLASTIC bushings for some steel ones and shimming as A) they won’t last long with an M100 spring and Warhead motor and B) they are really tight on the gear shafts! Ported cylinder and new piston & piston head on their way too as the old ones were perishing and only 1 metal tooth on the rack

Can’t be bothered to try and make a barrel clamp on RIS fit under the front sight so I trimmed a Polymer Magpul Mlok extended rail to suit 😂 Clamps through the holes in the fore end and keep the light out the way. If my repro light had threaded holes I could lose the clamp and bolt it directly - might invest in some taps and try threading it.

Play a couple of games and see how it goes. As others have said the hop rubber and barrel can make a difference- although cleaning the barrel with the unjamming rod and alcohol soaked rag is a good shout as there is usually gunk in it from the factory 😳

Just got the TM M733 and on testing noticed that there is a double clunk - first is the piston head hitting the end of the cylinder but then there is another - possibly the piston bouncing? Loose spring guide? Chopped spring. FPS is +/- 3fps and shooting 295fps on 0.20g BB so it is working fine. Motor height is set correctly and everything seems tight (as tight as the polymer body TMs can be!) Gears sound like they are shimmed ok, no rattle or whine. Not come across this before!

I would say that is a pretty damn fast set up! Are you running it on 7.4 or 11.1v? I am not sure changing the nozzle length will sort the feeding issues - more likely to drop the power due to bad seal on the rubber. If it is not feeding I would look at trying a delayer chip (if one isn’t fitted already) and maybe slowing down the ROF in the Perun (is that possible?) and maybe look at tappet plate tuning?

When I tested it in my MWS the FPS went from 260fps to 275fps on average. Good for colder weather when gas guns can get a bit sluggish. No idea on the PSI but pretty sure I have seen a chart on the Internet somewhere - have a Google!

Worst - Tie between G&P MOTS M4 with recoil (was a PITA to work on, really picky on mags and ammo, always "meh") or the TM MP7 as while when it works it is great there are so many design flaws and pretty much zero after market support. And it is scaled down. It could be so good but....TM being TM. Best - TM MWS, bought mine second hand and very well used (from Beefy Milsim) and it has been super reliable and accurate. Actually fun to work on and much less on-going maintenance than an AEG. Contender - WE G19 with MapleLeaf hop unit and CJ barrel. Just runs and runs, accurate enough to 20m+, using G17 mags with spacer to get a better grip on it with my big hands. Set up with fibre sights, Olight Valkyrie and Backcountry Customs holster.

My ex-AKS74U was short stroked by 4 teeth and ran a GPA M120 spring (from the great AK2M4) and was around 320fps on a 0.20g

I was under the impression that the WH motor controller included AB? and might not play well with other mosfets? Perun AB++ looks like a cool little unit

Morning all, I have a new toy on its way in the form of a TM M733 “Colt Commando” Totally stock at the moment. I plan on checking how it runs as standard - accuracy, consistency and trigger response. No sense just replacing stuff for the sake of it! It will be run it on 7.4v as a CQBish semi-only and ~1J Having said that I do like playing about in gear boxes so planned to check the shimming, maybe short stroke it by a few teeth (possibly 13:1?) and throw in a basic MOSFET (Gate NanoASR?) Possibility of an XT high torque motor if needed with the M120. Unfortunately I spotted the Warhead base motors and wondered if one of those could remove the need for short stroking / 13:1 gears and faffing inside the gear box? Seems the high speed ones can mess up timing. I am after trigger response not high RoF / wankergun! I have been deep in GBBR land for a while so advice from the ARG gurus appreciated!

Hi all, I have a Cyma MP5 that I really like....except for the angle of the pistol grip! My M4s have all had quite vertical / chunky pistol grips (Magpie or Ergo) as I find this more comfortable on my wrists. On the MP5 there is no option to change out the pistol grip and with the fixed stock it is a bit of a contortion act to grip it and avoid bumping the stock. All the pictures I have seen of the SEF / Navy grips is that they are roughly the same angle so that isn't an option. Has anyone added material or padding to the back of the pistol grip to make it effectively steeper? As I have large hands this might be an option....maybe drill in some short some pins and build up a new grip backstop with Sugru glue/putty?

My first thought is “does she have a reasonable justification for a RIF?”! Hope you get it sorted mate, onwards and upwards!

TM or GM nozzles all the way. DP ones are brittle and shatter. Some have had good luck with the v2 Angry Gun ones.

If the BBs look to be going straight but the sight is off to the left it sounds like you just need to adjust the rear sight windage (side to side adjustment) to match the BBs point of inpact. The hop up adjustment is detailed in the instructions, if you didn’t get a paper copy you can find the PDF online easy enough. Set the hop up, zero the sights then play a few games before looking to change lots of stuff. The stock barrel and hop rubber are really good.