SSPKali

RostokMcSpoons beat me to it.... Always worth testing a few different weights / brands as they can vary from gun to gun. My Cyma AKS-74U actually liked the Amoeba ones where as the others couldn't hit the broad side of a barn with them 🤣 Drop me a DM if you want a few baggies of brands / weights I have popping in the post.

I have two Vortex T1 sights (forget the model name!) and the Red Dot Eng protectors - both great bits of kit. TBH if the sight is broken you can't really make it any worse, right? 😆

Sounds like loose contacts inside the unit. I guess it should be possible to open it up and re-solder / fix but I have no idea what sort of level of skill that would require! Plus the sights are usually filled with Nitrogen to prevent fogging when moving from cold/hot environments - going to be a pain to refill that with out a BoC account and a 90L bottle of Nitrogen 🤣

Managed to get the TM MWS (Laylax hop arm, TM bucking, CrazyJet 250mm barrel, ASG Ultrair ~270fps) out today and test it with Geoffs Super Precision 0.32g (previous winner) vs Warhead 0.28 and 0.32g Gun clamped and held firm (heavy recoil buffer fitted!) and 10 shots at 10m. All the brands / weight were within 3mm variance in the box diagonal measurement! Safe to say the Warheads were leaders in cost/shot even with the postage included. All managed to hit a 50mm circle consistently and sent multiple shots through the same hole so plenty good enough for hitting elbows or knees poking out of cover 😂

G&P or GunsModify 👍 If you are really stuck the AngryGun v2 nozzle seems a better option than the original pile of poo they released…

Leaving my FRV belt set up for the USP and 4x mags so picked up a Condor LCS belt and have been pleasantly surprised. Laser cut molle fabric is tough feeling and holds the pouches well while not being too much of a PITA to fit stuff to. Inner belt is padded and has grippy rubber type fabric on the inside. Being hook velcro on the inner I can mix and match with the FRV. Buckle is a big fastex and while not rated to stop me falling out a helicopter I think it will be fine for tactical mincing around airsoft. £40 inc 1st class post means it is one of the more affordable options. Medium goes just about small enough for my 33”ish waist with the inner belt fitted. pouches are Esstac Kywi (short IN the DirectAction dump pouch, tall on the back). Condor 40mm pouch for the BFG, 5.11 pistol for speed loader (gas mags can easily shoot 70+ rounds) and a Warrior polymer for additional off-side mag (left handed rifle shooter 🤪) leaves the front and left side clear for my rifle to hang without smacking stuff.

How is the illuminated dot in the 1-4x24? I have heard it is pretty dim compared to regular T1 type red dots?

Turns out the precocking on a Perun AB++ uses active braking and causes issues with the Warhead motor, as does the burst settings which might give 1 or 2 shots…or maybe none. Using the TM motor it worked fine, but the Warhead fought it and refused to play nice. One to watch out for in the future.

TM motor tested and precocking, AB and burst works well. The two round burst with no RoF delay was silly fast and had the BBs flying a couple of feet apart…would make for some interesting bruises! Warhead HS is as fast without precocking and runs cooler / less amps and a little quieter so will be the choice.

Yep, that was the first step in the set up 😁 Bit of Google-Fu and I found this: ”Make sure AB is set to off. Same goes for precocking, perun made their precock feature use ab rather than overspin delay. Brushless doesn't know how to handle it.” Yeah, that would do it! Guess the burst mode has similar AB during the cycle and gives similar conflicts. Tempted to throw the original TM motor in and see if that plays nice. But that is a job for another day.

All fitted and working…sort of! If I turn on precocking (at any level from 1-8) it misfeeds or fires low FPS shots. Same with 2-3rd burst….but turn it off and fire full auto and it feeds fine! Guessing the Perun and Warhead are arguing with each other? No great shakes as the electronic fuse and protection of the trigger contacts and LiPo is the bigger benefit of it!

I tested quite a few different brands in my MWS (search in the HUGE thread in the gas section) and Geoffs Super Precision 0.32s gave the best groupings in clamped rifle testing. Nuprol and Amoeba were shockingly bad, Guarder, Longbow and GreenDevil bio passable but nothing special. My TM M733 AEG prefers Warhead 0.28g. I am yet to test the Warhead 0.28 and 0.32 in the MWS but will report back when I do. Obviously there are lots of factors that will effect the choice of ammo - I have a Laylax hop arm and CrazyJet barrel so may differ from stock! Edit: MWS Thread page 247 for ammo testing

Thanks for the info, I’ll grab some 2mm bullet connectors when I order the Perun AB++ More pressing is the missing pinion grub screw from the Warhead motor…apparently even 628 Loctite couldn’t hold it 😳

I would check the new tappet plate runs smoothly and freely in the gearbox shell before putting it all back together - minimise any drag that might increase the shock loading on the fin as the timing pin spins round and grabs it Fit just the tappet plate (no gears, cylinder, piston etc...) and check that when the GB shell is screwed together (no, holding it closed with your hands isn't the same!) that it can slide back and forwards with zero resistance.

Thinking about a Perun AB++ for the M4 which is front wired and so the two power cables are on spade connectors so when I take the upper receiver off I can disconnect them and feed them through the gap at the bottom of the barrel below where the hop unit sits. This leaves the fuse and deans conector with the barrel / upper receiver. With the Perun AB++ there are 3 wires - black and red power (which I am happy putting spade connectors on) and a smaller gauge signal wire - has anyone put a connector on one of these? what size would it need? Is this a dumb idea for a reason I am not aware of? Worst case I could leave them intact and take the barrel and delta ring off to fully disconnect it if needed? Many thanks in advance.

So 98m/s on a 0.32g BB = 1.54J * Bunch of muppets. Are you going to tell them or am I? *According to: https://www.zerooneairsoft.com/airsoft-fps-calculator

I have found that the SADF M83* chest rig can carry 6x M4 gas mags and two BFGs and will not feel heavy or make my back complain after a days play. With 6x AEG mags in it disappears. Can be found for £50-60 if you search around. I would steer clear of the micro-chest rigs as these are fine for 3 mags and sitting in a vehicle as that was their design. Arktis chest rig (or the MoD DPM ones from a surplus store) are another good bet. The Platac Peacekeeper Mk4/5 or other more recce rigs might be good for weigh distribution that is key. Also don't take anything out that you don't need! Mags, bangs, water (if hot / long games) and essential meds (Epi Pen, not that knock off tourniquet from Amazon PLEASE!) If you can Get away with 2 Hi-Cap mags - 1 in the gun, other stuffed in a trouser pocket and some Mk5s in the other = all set *Note this is NOT the M83 battle jacket / tactical waistcoat - unless your Airsoft game is going to last 3 days 😆

you could always pop off the locking lug part as it is only cosmetic. A small Biro spring might do the job - or maybe see if there are packs of misc small springs on Bay?

If it is doing the odd power-drop shot it might be cycling too fast and the nozzle isn't seated in the bucking when the air is pushed through. Maybe a stronger tappet plate spring (either new spring or cut a coil off and re-loop the end for more tension) My mate has the G&G G36 and it has been the cursed gun from hell (even with out the "tech" department at the retailer getting involved!) Mags have been really picky and some refuse to feed or randomly fountain BBs out the top while in the mag pouches! With a Titan inside and some mags that actually fit, feed and don't prematurely ejaculate it is a nice gun

Ran the M733 today at UCAP VENDETTA and it worked really well. Not quite the range of the MWS and I had one semi-lockup (at the worst possible time…so I switched to my USP and forgot the safety was on 🤦‍♂️) Trigger response and cycle time were plenty fast enough so no 11.1v or pre-cocking on the horizon. Will be getting the E&C metal upper&lower receiver as the TM one while ok is a bit wobbly on the carry handle.

+1 for getting a Cyma Platinum, ZCI hop / ML rubber and throw in a Warhead motor - all for less than this stock!

TM M733, Vortex red dot, TacBelts minimalist sling, Scout light clone on genuine Magpul mount (butchered by me) and an E&C non-clone correct grip (fight me!) Internally it has 16:1 gears short stroked 4 teeth (2 pickup / 2 release) shimmed and Warhead HS motor. XT M110 spring is giving 275fps (+/-1fps, ~1J) on Warhead 0.28g BBs and a grouping of 30mm at 10m from a clamped position. ML Macaron 50deg and hard nub do the hard work there! Response and rate of fire on a 7.4v 20c LiPo is excellent without getting into w*nker gun territory and resorting to MOSFETs and such. I am after a rubber stock pad (the shorter type, all ones I have found are 30% longer than the butt plate!) and maybe an E&C metal receiver as the handle on the TM polymer one cracked and is held together with glue....not the most stable optic mounting!

It looks like the thread will be the smaller one for Butane-mix camping stoves, not the larger Propane ones. Will pop out to the shed later and check as I have both types and a Madbull knock-off fill valve EDIT - yeah they are different- see pic

No but the Hao bolt end and AG steel buffer gives a nice kick! I have an AG Alu buffer and a DP lightweight bolt if I need to reduce the gas consumption / run it in single digit weather.

Is it just the little aluminium valve part that goes in the nozzle? If just that there won't be much (if any difference) but it might be a little more consistent than the stock TM one. If you include the spring that comes with it is a) longer and b) stronger so you will get a jump in FPS - probably 10-15fps from my testing a couple of years ago. Nothing amazing if you are after ALL THE FPS's!!!!!!!!1!!!!1!!! Don't use the DP nozzles though, they are brittle plastic and won't last a mag! TM, Guns Modify or G&P for that (although my AngryGun v2 is working ok....)