SSPKali

Others have found that it gives higher power. I have used a RA Tech NPAS in a TM nozzle / bolt and found it pretty good at dropping the FPS. You need the black one, as the silver (WE) one is too fat to fit. I would check what is in the G&P nozzle to start with as they might have used the 3 position valve stopper (or get one for £9 from Firesupport) as this can be used to alter the FPS too. A spare nozzle and nozzle spring would be the minimum, I usually take a spare complete nozzle (easier to swap out) or complete bolt (even faster to change) Other than that taking the AEG as insurance might be a good move. I have found the MWS to be very reliable but if you have travelled to the other end of the country and still have 23hrs of game play left if would suck to not have a rifle!

Nice Goruck GR1 ? Some really good accuracy out to that range too!

I run 3 mags in CQB: 1 in the gun and two on the rig. I carry a pistol mag sized speedloader full of BBs so I can refill the mags while I walk to respawn as the gas is good for ~100 shots, but the mags only hold 35 BBs ?

What lube are you using in it? Seems that they can be picky about heavier oils and greases. I use Locksmiths graphite spray (Amazon or your local locksmiths) as it is super slick and dry so doesn't pick up dirt. The other issue is that the spring tension on a lot of the trigger parts is offset to one side making the parts twist and bind, might be worth stripping down and seeing if opposite corners of any parts are showing wear (and everything is running smooth, can re-assemble with no springs to check everything plays nice with its neighbours)

Probably put that many shots through it and my trigger is still ok! I can’t even think by what mechanism that might happen…but I am obviously not an “expert reviewer” ;)

I have the Dynamic Precision light weight bolt and it works fine in my MWS. Not sure why the trigger box might not be able to keep up? Or do you mean the bolt hold open on empty?

Std bolt and nozzle on 250mm barrel =335-340fpd on 0.20g and about 265-270fps on 0.30g at 20degC

I am using ASG Ultrair as it is consistent and on offer at PatrolBase. Nuprol Red is Propane with some Ethane to boost the pressure a bit (nuprol Green equates to pure Propane according to the Wiki article on the gas pressure at 20degC Unless it is close to freezing Nuprol Red is overkill.

I use 2 second fill, then do the next mag and rotate around the 5 mags until all have had a 10 second fill in total. Easily enough for 3 mags worth of BBs (either modded Gen1 or stock Gen 2 TM MWS mags) If you over fill the mag you end up with lots of liquid in them (so lots of shots) BUT not much of a gas layer above which is what propels the BB. After a couple of shots you will need to wait for more of the liquid to boil off into gas and get up to pressure before you have enough for the next shot. Less of an issue in hot climates but for the UK it can be a pain as there isn’t much residual heat in the mag body to do this or avoid cool-down.

Internals are a lot more fragile and poorly designed and executed, not the same availability of TM or after market parts for when it does break and some fundamental engineering design flaws that would have been easy to avoid. Throw in one of the most un-ergodynamic pistol grips of all time and you have a lemon. Other than that I guess it is ok ?

My secondhand MWS had a very hard life and there was a load of gritty mud in the trigger box that had caused a lot of wear and nasty feel. I have replaced all the parts in the trigger box with the WiiTech parts and spring set. They are really high quality and nice finish, well worth the money. I tried the marksman sear but got light strikes with the safety ON followed by another light strike after I took it off and pulled the trigger again! I tried it with both the TM and WiiTech parts - same result. GET THE REGULAR SEAR! For lubrication get a small aerosol can of Graphite lock lube (less than £10 on Amazon or Ebay) and use that. Apply to the parts as you assemble the trigger box then wipe the gun down after…and don’t wear a white t-shirt! It is messy to apply and you will need to wash your hands about 8 times but it is very low friction and won’t attract dirt and gum up the action. I have had zero issues with trigger reset or bolt locking back since using it.

Ok, it’s official, the TM MWS has ruined AEGs for me! Had a great day at UCAP VENDETTA running my MWS with Spitfire tracer and Vortex red dot. 2 spare mags and a 90rd speed loader for “walk back to respawn top-ups” saw me through a couple of games easy with ASG Ultrair gas and Longbow tracer 0.30g BBs. I switched to my heavily customised Cyma MP5 for exactly one game…feel was “off” and zero feedback on taking a shot. Accuracy was ok for CQB but not on the long open stretches outside. Seemed to burn through ammo to try and compensate. I’ll keep it for really close in stuff like StrikeForce and Bristol Courthouse. Went back to the MWS and even got a guy 45m away hiding behind a trailer, only his feet and lower shins showing ? We won’t mention the shot from 5m back, through a 10cm hole in a door into the marshals crotch ? TBF there was a blue hiding behind it and taunting us!

Added some Velcro OneWrap to strap ends to keep them tidy and elastic with a 500d cordura cover to the chest rig waist belt to allow some breathing room…definitely not because I like pies ?

I would look at using some electrical wire of a suitable size to make a hard stop in the hop wheel so at least you can dig it out and replace if needed ?Silicone covered wire of a suitable diameter should press in nicely and hold. Before getting to that stage I would try putting a drop of water base paint on the exposed part of the hop dial and cycling the gun while it is still wet. Then stop and take out the bolt and see if there is any transfer. It has to be something either pressing on the wheel or vibrating it round and I am not sure that such a small, light part could be moved by such low frequency vibrations as the bolt cycling. Let us know how you get on!

Top tip from the weekend playing CQB at Gloucester prison - take a pistol sized speedloader full of BBs out with you and you have effectively doubled the number of mags you have for only a few grams extra! Easy to top up the mags on the walk to the respawn TBH one in the gun and two spare on the chest rig would have been plenty. It is amazing how far 35rds can go when you make each one count. I keep hearing about extra maintenance that GBBRs take. I timed my post game clean up (ignoring cleaning the barrel as AEGs need that too) and it was about 7mins. Much less faff than storage charging LiPos then recharging before the game!

Zero mods for the Magpul front end...drops straight on! Guess the Cyma must be 1:1 size on that at least! Front sight mod below - 1mm x 6mm tritium vial from a fishing shop online. Simply clean the front post with alcohol wipe then very carefully super glue the vial on ?

Cyma CM041 HighSpeed finally finished (are they really ever finished?!) Short stroked 3teeth, new air nozzle, ML rubber and nub. Gate MERF mosfet in the stock along with a HUGE 7.4v nunchuck battery...and space left over!) Genuine MAGPUL fore end with TM grip and Olight Valkyrie torch. Vortex Crossfire red dot and a tritium vial on the front sight post for dark CQB / back up sights. Obligatory Spitfire tracer unit with Airtac blastwarden outer cover and Ferro Concepts single point slingster (as H&K hate left handed people!)

Just tested mine on ASG Ultrair and 0.32g BBs and the stock TM bolt and nozzle kit. Shed has been warm today so all at about 23-25deg. Running a bit hot at 295fps with stock TM parts (should be a limit of 276fps!) DP lightweight bolt and nozzle / valve combo was doing similar FPS. Swapped out to AG v2 nozzle (still the TM bolt) and got it shooting a nice consistent 262fps ish even with a fresh warm mag and gas. Plenty of option to dial up or down if needed. Zeroed in the new Vortex Crossfire2 red dot with Unity clone mount as the old one is now living on the MP5 AEG (Blasphemy!) Although I had forgotten how much fun a GBBR was...probably run it on the 20th at UCAP VENDETTA.

*tries to order a triglide buckle from the US* ITAR CONTROLLED! THE RED COATS WILL INVADE IF WE SHIP THESE OVERSEAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

"Silent fill o-rings" are the ones you pop in to stop the air venting as you fill the mag. TM mags are meant to vent air as the liquid gas fills up, this allows them to hold more gas and work more efficiently. With gas mags you should always fill for 1 second then stop, remove the nozzle, wait 4-5 seconds then fill for 1s again. Keep doing this until the mag is venting Propane from the fill valve (not just air) If it is second hand I would spend some time taking the valves out (fill and knocker), giving it all a good clean and checking the o-rings for wear / deformation. Re-assemble with quality thick Silicone oil and try again.

Handily I can't post on that group as they have refused to let me join. He doesn't say *what* is jamming? The bolt? The valve/NPAS? Silver RATech will jam in a TM nozzle and needs sanding to move smoothly. A quick and cheap option for him to try is to glue a 0.1mm gear box shim to the back of the TM valve. That will close the gap the gas flows through a tad and will drop the FPS. A bit trial and error but worth a shot!

I would have thought that the valves for longer barrels would let through LESS gas to avoid massive joule creep? I could be wrong and it wouldn't be the first time! Maybe we need to club together to buy the low, mid and high and test them out on our set ups and pass them round to get a ground truth for them?

I can confirm that the Hao one DOESN'T need filing to fit It is also worth every penny, how they make something so well. at that price is amazing.

I found the stop gave lower FPS (260fps?) on the "high" setting than the stock TM one. Mid and Low were noticeably less (220fps and 150fps IIRC?) This was with 0.30g BBs and a 255mm barrel I took 0.1mm off the prongs on the front and it raised the FPS quite a bit (+30 to +50fps depending on setting) so only a small change in position makes a HUGE difference in the output of the gun.