SSPKali

I have the Olight Valkyrie as a main weapons light (and the smaller 1 CR123 for the pistol) and while it is a great bit of kit and very bright it can be too bright and the reflected light from use in small, painted rooms dazzle the user! I have a scope flip-up cap (with the cap and spring / hinge wings cut off) holding a 2mm thick red tinted lexan over the lens - this moderates the output and preserves *some* of my vision! Easy to pull the cover off and dazzle the opposition if needed (say, outside or in larger spaces)

G&P reborn....again! Carry handle and classic fore end with BHD-type camp paint done in a hurry. Will be my go-to for woodland games (GBBR is NOT ideal when you need to put down lots of covering fire!) Now I need to find some metal STANAG mags in stock somewhere so I can paint to match!

As someone who tried to get them to come and certify a world record I can confirm this is not the case, they generally tell you that yours is too silly (really?! Have you seen some of the stuff they certify?) and then threaten legal action if you call it a "world record" with out them verifying it (even if you never mention the G word) Last email to them was pretty much summed up as "Go away in small, jerky movements'

If the mag corner is bent FFS don’t try and bend it back! I guarantee it will fracture ? Use a small file and file it flat a little at a time.

Check the little catch on the mag is moving smoothly. Press down the bb follower then check that the little catch at the back of the mag moves up and down smoothly. It is easy for dirt to get in there and make it sticky. I have had some that were sluggish due to dirt and another where the corner of the mag was bent inwards half a mm and stopping it moving at all!

For that sort of money just buy a regular MWS, change the stock / rails / grip and get any bits you fancy Cerakoted in a suitable pimpy colour

I would start with selecting a hand guard and measuring the internal diameter and then working from there as that will dictate the suppressor diameter. You will also need to check the length of the hand guard vs barrel and see what overlap you need.

The three prongs and 3 different screw holes (can see 2 in pic, at different levels) are a dead give away. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/gp-marui-mws-gbb-adjustable-piston-valve

The G&P adjustable stop has 3 different holes for the thin cross screw so it adjusts how far forward the valve sits and thus the power. I was getting 180fps / 260fps / 290fps on green gas and 0.30g BBs at 18degC on the low/mid/high settings IIRC. Stock TM bolt/nozzle/etc

Others have found that it gives higher power. I have used a RA Tech NPAS in a TM nozzle / bolt and found it pretty good at dropping the FPS. You need the black one, as the silver (WE) one is too fat to fit. I would check what is in the G&P nozzle to start with as they might have used the 3 position valve stopper (or get one for £9 from Firesupport) as this can be used to alter the FPS too. A spare nozzle and nozzle spring would be the minimum, I usually take a spare complete nozzle (easier to swap out) or complete bolt (even faster to change) Other than that taking the AEG as insurance might be a good move. I have found the MWS to be very reliable but if you have travelled to the other end of the country and still have 23hrs of game play left if would suck to not have a rifle!

Nice Goruck GR1 ? Some really good accuracy out to that range too!

I run 3 mags in CQB: 1 in the gun and two on the rig. I carry a pistol mag sized speedloader full of BBs so I can refill the mags while I walk to respawn as the gas is good for ~100 shots, but the mags only hold 35 BBs ?

What lube are you using in it? Seems that they can be picky about heavier oils and greases. I use Locksmiths graphite spray (Amazon or your local locksmiths) as it is super slick and dry so doesn't pick up dirt. The other issue is that the spring tension on a lot of the trigger parts is offset to one side making the parts twist and bind, might be worth stripping down and seeing if opposite corners of any parts are showing wear (and everything is running smooth, can re-assemble with no springs to check everything plays nice with its neighbours)

Probably put that many shots through it and my trigger is still ok! I can’t even think by what mechanism that might happen…but I am obviously not an “expert reviewer” ;)

I have the Dynamic Precision light weight bolt and it works fine in my MWS. Not sure why the trigger box might not be able to keep up? Or do you mean the bolt hold open on empty?

Std bolt and nozzle on 250mm barrel =335-340fpd on 0.20g and about 265-270fps on 0.30g at 20degC

I am using ASG Ultrair as it is consistent and on offer at PatrolBase. Nuprol Red is Propane with some Ethane to boost the pressure a bit (nuprol Green equates to pure Propane according to the Wiki article on the gas pressure at 20degC Unless it is close to freezing Nuprol Red is overkill.

I use 2 second fill, then do the next mag and rotate around the 5 mags until all have had a 10 second fill in total. Easily enough for 3 mags worth of BBs (either modded Gen1 or stock Gen 2 TM MWS mags) If you over fill the mag you end up with lots of liquid in them (so lots of shots) BUT not much of a gas layer above which is what propels the BB. After a couple of shots you will need to wait for more of the liquid to boil off into gas and get up to pressure before you have enough for the next shot. Less of an issue in hot climates but for the UK it can be a pain as there isn’t much residual heat in the mag body to do this or avoid cool-down.

Internals are a lot more fragile and poorly designed and executed, not the same availability of TM or after market parts for when it does break and some fundamental engineering design flaws that would have been easy to avoid. Throw in one of the most un-ergodynamic pistol grips of all time and you have a lemon. Other than that I guess it is ok ?

My secondhand MWS had a very hard life and there was a load of gritty mud in the trigger box that had caused a lot of wear and nasty feel. I have replaced all the parts in the trigger box with the WiiTech parts and spring set. They are really high quality and nice finish, well worth the money. I tried the marksman sear but got light strikes with the safety ON followed by another light strike after I took it off and pulled the trigger again! I tried it with both the TM and WiiTech parts - same result. GET THE REGULAR SEAR! For lubrication get a small aerosol can of Graphite lock lube (less than £10 on Amazon or Ebay) and use that. Apply to the parts as you assemble the trigger box then wipe the gun down after…and don’t wear a white t-shirt! It is messy to apply and you will need to wash your hands about 8 times but it is very low friction and won’t attract dirt and gum up the action. I have had zero issues with trigger reset or bolt locking back since using it.

Ok, it’s official, the TM MWS has ruined AEGs for me! Had a great day at UCAP VENDETTA running my MWS with Spitfire tracer and Vortex red dot. 2 spare mags and a 90rd speed loader for “walk back to respawn top-ups” saw me through a couple of games easy with ASG Ultrair gas and Longbow tracer 0.30g BBs. I switched to my heavily customised Cyma MP5 for exactly one game…feel was “off” and zero feedback on taking a shot. Accuracy was ok for CQB but not on the long open stretches outside. Seemed to burn through ammo to try and compensate. I’ll keep it for really close in stuff like StrikeForce and Bristol Courthouse. Went back to the MWS and even got a guy 45m away hiding behind a trailer, only his feet and lower shins showing ? We won’t mention the shot from 5m back, through a 10cm hole in a door into the marshals crotch ? TBF there was a blue hiding behind it and taunting us!

Added some Velcro OneWrap to strap ends to keep them tidy and elastic with a 500d cordura cover to the chest rig waist belt to allow some breathing room…definitely not because I like pies ?

I would look at using some electrical wire of a suitable size to make a hard stop in the hop wheel so at least you can dig it out and replace if needed ?Silicone covered wire of a suitable diameter should press in nicely and hold. Before getting to that stage I would try putting a drop of water base paint on the exposed part of the hop dial and cycling the gun while it is still wet. Then stop and take out the bolt and see if there is any transfer. It has to be something either pressing on the wheel or vibrating it round and I am not sure that such a small, light part could be moved by such low frequency vibrations as the bolt cycling. Let us know how you get on!

Top tip from the weekend playing CQB at Gloucester prison - take a pistol sized speedloader full of BBs out with you and you have effectively doubled the number of mags you have for only a few grams extra! Easy to top up the mags on the walk to the respawn TBH one in the gun and two spare on the chest rig would have been plenty. It is amazing how far 35rds can go when you make each one count. I keep hearing about extra maintenance that GBBRs take. I timed my post game clean up (ignoring cleaning the barrel as AEGs need that too) and it was about 7mins. Much less faff than storage charging LiPos then recharging before the game!

Zero mods for the Magpul front end...drops straight on! Guess the Cyma must be 1:1 size on that at least! Front sight mod below - 1mm x 6mm tritium vial from a fishing shop online. Simply clean the front post with alcohol wipe then very carefully super glue the vial on ?