SSPKali

Shop have said I can return it, plus given me the name and number of their GBBR guy to speak to. Purchased from FireSupport who are awesome and who I will use again (and again, and again!) Seems from the Facebook TM GBBR group this is a feature, not a bug. IE they all do this and people just accept it 🙄 Apparently the regular (non-marksman) sear is pretty good so may try that. The fit and finish on it is amazing, shame the double-bevel on the face gives this weird issue! HOME FIX: If you are happy taking the trigger box apart look for areas inside the shell where the trigger bar is rubbing due to torsion of off-set spring tension. Gently sand the corresponding area on the trigger bar to reduce the friction. Bonus points for sourcing 0.1mm steel shims for the hammer, trigger and sear posts to prevent torsion friction 👍 EASIER TUNE: Under the "tail" of the semi auto sear (rear left of trigger box as you hold the lower reciever) place small squares of gaffer tape under this, stuck to the trigger box, to reduce the sear engagement with the hammer. Don't add too much and check that you can't accidentally trip it by cocking the gun then slapping it around like it owes you money 😁 You should end up with some nice smooth take up to a clearly defined wall then a shorter, crisp break. Total cost £0.03p.

So, an update on the WIITECH Marksman sear for the MWS. It fitted fine but made the trigger '2 stage' and meant the first part of the pull pushed the valve knocker 1/3 way forward! This even happened when the selector was set to SAFE! Pulling the trigger after this lead to a light-strike on the magazine valve and failure to cycle. If you simply snatched at the trigger it worked, but given the safety implications I immediately changed back to the stock TM sear. 20200611_153721.mp4 20200611_153655.mp4

I have just stripped, cleaned and re-built my MWS trigger box. Not as bad a task as I expected, mainly down to pre-watching the Eagle6 youtube video on it several times! While flushing it with disc brake cleaner then re-oiling is great normally, the previous owner seemed to keep this CQBR buried in a sand pit and the trigger was tight and sluggish. Stripped, de-greased and then reassembled with Abbey TF2 grease (and a light spray of GT85 on the Z-plate and bolt release catch) and the trigger is smoother, definite wall and more even pull with a crips reset. Not match quality but useable. I am still looking to improve the trigger but I am having a hard time finding which parts or modifications actually help. There seem to be some very pricey parts kits or complete trigger boxes out there but zero user feedback (other than some negative stuff on the G&P box!) EDIT: Just ordered one 😁 Has anyone used the WIITECH "marksman sear"? At £18 it sounds like a reasonable upgrade....

Hao Mk16 rail in 9.3" for my TM MWS. loving its smooth profile, light weight and precise machining.

If you take off the end cap and pull the bolt out you should be able to see the hop rubber and gauge if it needs replacing. Barrel cleaning can be done with a cleaning rod and some of those alcohol wipes they use before injections. Ebay and amazon have them in boxes of 100 for not much £. Youtube has a few videos, this one is ok but I would watch a few (even in foreign language) to get an over view of the process. Not too hard after the first time!

Type 89 magazines in stock with FireSupport, although I guess no one is in a mad rush for mags at the moment! Not sure what the difference between a MWS and Type89 mag is...I think it is just the finish and some slight cosmetic differences?

SixG nub or Laylax hop arm - so you can lift heavy (0.30g+) BBs that get the best from the system. SixG buffer spacer would be my next suggestion.

There is the one that fits the TM buffer tube and the other one (labled the MWS004 or something) that is ONLY for the G&P buffer tube (larger diameter than the stock TM one) Not used one as I ordered the wrong one and Fire Support were out of stock by the time I had returned it.

As you have eliminated all the other parts I would guess that there is some corrosion in the mag shell or the rear corner where the cut-off lever sits has been bent inwards a fraction, possibly due to being dropped. Assemble each part separately and check it moves smoothly and if not find where it is sticking. Needle files and wet&dry paper will sort out any sticking points. The mags need stripping and cleaning, especially in dusty conditions, to avoid the precision parts like the cut off arm starting to stick.

The WE one will fit *if* you don't mind some work with wet&dry paper as the outer diameter is slightly bigger. G&P also make adjustable valves, but they have a narrower range of adjustment (and not really adjustable on the fly)

Details on fitting here: https://www.google.com/amp/s/atrg.blog/2019/04/22/how-to-install-a-wilcox-a2-front-rail-on-the-tokyo-marui-mp7a1/amp/

A couple of thin o-rings in the slot in the flash hider can also make it less wobbly Some good info about polishing the bolt and internal body to avoid the out-of-battery issue and where to add some tape to avoid the sloppy trigger take up. Was very handy when I got my MP7 secondhand.

My only tips would be "be prepared to order spares from Hong Kong" 🤣 I love mine but it is not as sturdy as the MWS. So far mine has had a broken stock catch, broken bolt stop lever and broken safety. All these are down to poor design (tiny spindle...with a flat face ground onto it...and a screw hole through it. Really TM?! Or the usual pot metal used in places where it is taking an impact. I would suggest a stronger recoil spring (or add some o-ring spacers) and a sling mount to fit on the top rail to take the impact of the bolt off the top take down pin (and prevent it cracking the internal shell, they are expensive and tricky to find) You can also add a cut down section on sniper rifle spring to the rear plate to cushion the bolt more. The fore grip is pants, I recommend finding the MP7A2 kit and running a proper RIS foregrip. ATRG.blog has the details on that. Mine is used for CQB so I keep it short and run a Vortex red dot and 1200lm Olight Valkyrie torch. I have just fitted a sound hog to it and boy is it loud! Green gas with stock barrel gives me 330-340fps with 0.20g but I usually run 0.25g so I can take advantage of the range when needed. Cold weather seems to have minimal effect on its performance, no idea if that is due to the mag shape, size or location in the pistol grip but it is great! Lees Precision makes a neat adaptor for the Xcortech 301 tracer that avoids it sticking out the front a mile. Defo useful in night games!

Excited to get this in my MWS, shame it will be totally invisible! Great to see constant improvements being made 👍

AI and Madbull propane adaptors failed to work on my MWS mags (with or without the silent fill mod) so I gave up. Now I look out for deals on Abbey gas and stock up on that SixG responded to me about the buffer spring spacer, think there were issues with the mail system

Wow glad I haven't forked out £200+ for that trigger set. I like tinkering but not fixing other peoples bad designs or executions! Is there anything worth doing to the stock trigger unit to make it a little crisper on the break point and reset? Would disassembly and polishing help?

The only review on that page says that the ring is too big to fir through the handguard and there is no hole for the screw to hold it together (translation thanks to Google!) Would be good to hear some real-world reviews of users on here before ordering from overseas and the issues around returning it should it turn out to be pants.

Put a dab of low strength Loctite on it before installing and wait 24hrs before adjusting. Should stop it rattling lose in future.

I forgot they did them in tan....I was wondering why you would want to paint a black gun...err...black! Looks like a good job, will you post final pics?

Maple Leaf crazy jet (came with the gun, bought it secondhand) Seems to be ok.

I had ordered a Modify Tan bucking as a spare last week and today I had a look a the current 60deg Autobot installed...turns out I needed that spare sooner than expected! Bit of faffing to strip down the whole front end of my MWS CQBR but not as bad as I thought, certainly much less swearing than reassembling an AEG! I will give it a quick test tomorrow but I am limited to a 12m range at the moment 🙄 The old one at it's last outing at UCAP VENDETTA was picking off exposed knees and elbows at 40m+ so I can't wait to see what it does with a non-ripped bucking and clean barrel 😁

I think that, somewhere in this epic thread, someone has posted info about one or two of them. Let me see if I can find out and post a link. Page 20 has some info on the red one:

Each offers a different range of powers. IIRC they each have 3 positions for the pin, but only a small over all range (rather than the NPAS style ones which go from 250 > 450fps!)

TM MWS and G19 load out. Viper chest rig with no name dangler. Carries 3x M4 mags, Impact grenade and spare primers/tool. Dangler has a first aid kit in and protects my beer gut! 🤣 FRV Tailoring shooters belt with BackcountryWorkshop kydex holster (for G19 and Olight Valkyrie), Eagle Industries double M4 with kydex inserts, WAS fold up dump pouch, Smoke grenade pouch (timed grenade) and single pistol pouch. The M4 and dump/grenade have swapped places from this photo as I shoot left handed with the rifle, right handed with the pistol 🙄 For short CQB games the belt kit OR chest rig on their own is plenty, with both I can play for hours. Using a GBBR makes you chose your shots / battles. Clothing can be a mix of camo, plain utilities or, usually, jeans and a shirt for the PMC / "Army advisors / mentors" 😉 Throw a M4 speed loader I could have the equivalent of 12 mags (420+ shots!)