Airsoft-Ed
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Posts posted by Airsoft-Ed
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10 years seems a little steep, I've not even been playing for 5 yet and loads has changed. Anything more than 3 might see all their kit out dated at the rate things are changing.
Though I guess there being consequences is the whole point of a punishment in the first place. 10 years though =/ I bet there are few people who keep it up for that long even if they're properly into it. -
would it fit the G&G l85?
i only ask as my google fuu is letting me down and i can not find out the thread size on the G&G l85
I think the G&G flash hider just slides on and gets anchored by a small grub screw or something. Have a look on RSOV for "L85 Flash Hider G&G", they used to sell all the different variations for each L85 model. As far as I'm aware it's only the ICS/WE one that's been discontinued.
I don't know why that one would be and not the rest, but going off how hard they are to get hold of it seems to add up.
looks damn cool thou..
and I still think that l85 of yours would look epic if 100% tan ^^
100% tan? Eurgh no, got to have some funky two-tone-ness in there to break it up a bit and make it look more interesting.
- Airsoft_Mr B and sp00n
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Ed, do you think this would fit? It looks the same to me and I can see the detentes where the bayonet catch would engage;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/King-Arms-Tactical-Flash-Hider-14mm-CCW-Type-3-KA-FH-46-/300967588281
Apparently it's a clone of the Ares one, which uses the same threading, BUUUUTTTT the threads are seated deeper into the flash hider, so the ICS barrel threads can't reach far enough into it to actually screw together.
So in short, it won't work.
You could drill it out so the barrel can fit further into it, but if you do that you'll lose a lot of your overall barrel length and it'll end up looking more like one of those fantasy L85 carbines than a proper L85A2.
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Ed, do you think this would fit? It looks the same to me and I can see the detentes where the bayonet catch would engage;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/King-Arms-Tactical-Flash-Hider-14mm-CCW-Type-3-KA-FH-46-/300967588281
I'd forgotten about those.
I'm just quizzing a mate who I know trades a lot of L85 bits and bobs so once he gets back to me I'll let you know the compatibility.
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Oh my..
First person all day.. Everyday..
My body is already ready..
S'gonna be amazeballs.
- Airsoft_Mr B and Monty
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AFGs would be useless on L85s because of how the weight of the weapon is distributed, it just wouldn't offer anything to the handling.
They're also supposed to be mounted pretty far forward to get the best use out of them, and being a bullpup, L85s just leave both your hands too close together for them to help in that way either.
It's airsoft so recoil compensation methods are pointless anyway, but I can't stop people using stuff on their guns so I just accept it, move on, and curse them in my head...
Anyway though, the WE L85s take the same muzzle breaks/flash hiders as the ICS, and unfortunately the Surefire issue style ones have been discontinued, from what I've heard. So if you want one for a WE you'll have to keep an eye out for second hand ones or buy one made for the Ares/G&G/etc and modify it - rethread it or just drill it and secure it with glue or something, whatever works best for you. -
I'm still not 100% certain whether I like the tan look on the A2 or not.....
I hated it at first, there's a post somewhere on Facebook where I swore I'd never paint it lol. But it really grew on me.
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BulletForMyEnemy
Though the "ll" = two capital "i"s
Battlefield 4
WarThunder
S'about it lol
Gonna be getting:
GTAV
The Division
Rainbow 6 - obviously
MGS5 -
Can confirm there isn't a Real Sword L85.
There's ICS, G&G, Army Armament, Ares, STAR and WE... And HFC... Which is a springer, so it doesn't count.
Also, here's my two most recent photos:
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There's a pin that goes through where it pivots
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I agree with the warranty, but i took the gun apart to swap the rubber early on, so that may have invalidated it.
The nub wasnt the issue, i swapped that out early doors as well with the one that came with the madbull bucking.
How do i take apart the hop unit to change the arm? I might know someone who could make one but i would need to give him something to copy.
Thanks gents
Did you not have to take the arm off to change the nub? I don't know how else to do it without it taking hours and being fiddly as hell lol.
Also, the Madbull nubs are still huge, and it was a blue rubber that actually gave me the issue in the first place. Back then I was one of those people who thought, "Oh it's an upgrade, it must make it better" which just isn't always the case.
Maybe try the stock rubber with the Madbull nub, mix and match etc.
It's definitely the size of the nub causing the over hop issue though.
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My first suggestion would be to just send it back under warranty, if you get another one then it might not have the same issues and it'll save you having to do anything yourself, so you might as well try that if it's open to you.
As for sorting the issues out yourself, if you mean those spring loaded brass nubs that connect the circuit across the upper and lower receiver, just bend them. If they don't line up with their contacts right then no amount of taking them to bits and lubing them is going to change anything. Just get some pliers and flex them up a bit so that they meet when the gun's together. Their only purpose is to complete the circuit, and they're just bits of metal, so it's not like bending them is going to have any negative effects.
As for the hop sending everything high, I had the same problem with mine when I first got it. Even with hop off it would still send everything skyward ridiculously.
I fixed mine by taking the stock nub out, because it's massive, and making a smaller one using a biro ink tube - take a biro/ball point pen to bits and just fashion a new nub out of the ink tube, make sure you cut it to the right length because you want it to fit the nub space properly otherwise you'll get a lot of left/right deviation.
Alternately you can just buy a new nub, I ended up using a Systema rubber and a Big Out H Nub in the end, the Nubs are moronically expensive for what they are, but I had good results from it.
I also eventually got a metal hop arm, someone listed one for sale on the forums. I don't know where he got it from, it might've been custom made, but that eliminates the flexing issue caused by the wheel only acting on one side of the hop arm. -
Have you seen the APS CAM870MCS? That is for all intents and purposes the same as a real shotgun. You pour a handful of BBs into the shell, charge it with gas, then put a lid on it to stop the BBs falling out.
At least with the grenade launcher shells, I'm pretty sure the pin stays pressed in until you prime it for another shot, it's only a very simple mechanism, and there's no point in not using all the gas in one go, so there's no reason for it to hit and release.
I'd imagine it's the same story for the APS shells, but I've not had any hands on with one to know. -
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I think I wrote this one before the massive one lol, I'd forgotten all about it until I saw your comment bump it to the top of the section.
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I don't know if airsoft red dot sights would offer the precision required for a clean kill at anything beyond about 10m, especially if your target is something as small as a rabbit.
It's hard to really say how much precision they offer because I've only ever used them on airsoft guns, which are obviously significantly less accurate than air rifles. They will hold their zero fine on an air rifle though, gas blowback airsoft guns have far more recoil than any UK legal air rifle. More than 22LR rifles in a lot of cases.
The variable zoom DR sights mentioned above would be a bad idea based on what I've heard though, they're pretty crap at holding their zero between 4 and 1x mag. The zero points might even be different entirely, not sure.
I'm assuming you've got a scope mounted already, since you say you want a red dot for closer targets? Have you looked into Docter or RMR micro red dots? They're often mounted on top of scopes, or canted off the barrel at a 45° angle, you could have your rifle scope and red dot mounted simultaneously.
Edit:
Just realised you actually said you wanted to mount it on a scope haha, fail. Micro red dots ought to suit you down to the ground in that case. Search for RMR or Docter sights, Patrol Base had a small selection last time I was in there, their website might be a good starting point. -
Bullpup means the action is behind the trigger, and I always took the action as being the bolt and breach, which is pretty much always level with the trigger, rather than behind it.
So there!
I know it's a joke thread, but still... It's wrong!- Josh95, DX115FALCON and AirsoftTed
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It's pretty difficult because bullet speeds are ridiculously unrealistic, but picking off headshots once people stop moving, and being a sneaky bastard is always fun.
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Try putting the battery in the other way around. I thought mine was fucked as well but the way the battery space was geared it made you think you're putting it in the right way around when actually the polarity is backwards.
Does it get hot? 'Cos if it does, that's definitely the issue. -
The best I've ever seen on a standard gas mag was about 70 shots, in the height of summer, on my WE Glock when it was brand new.
But it's very dependant on the efficiency of the system, the weight of the slide, the size of the mags (bigger = more gas) and of course the temperature.
I don't carry gas into games with me, so I'll always just top the gas fill up when I reload the magazine with ammo. To me it doesn't matter what the gas economy is like, so long as it works when I want it to, and it can fire all the shots I load it with. -
It's pretty much an aspect of the design that the ejection port cover will sometimes come to rest at the rear, as the blowback is achieved by clamping it directly to the piston. If you fire on auto it'll probably stop somewhere in the middle more often than fully closed.
The charging handle more than likely has no functional purpose so I don't see why it'd matter. If it doesn't sound any different when you shoot it, then nothing bad will be happening. It'd be obvious if something was going wrong. -
Foam filled silencers are a waste on a GBB, all the noise comes from the action cycling and not the muzzle, so you might as well get an extended inner barrel.
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Also, in the US it's probably not uncommon for you to have to drive what we would consider ridiculously far to get to a game site, purely because the US is enormous and everything will be a lot more spaced out. At least I'm guessing that's the case? How far do you go to get to your events?
In the UK most people can be at a site in the space of anything from 10 minutes, to about 45 minutes, almost entirely regardless of where they are. There's probably something like a thousand skirmish sites across the UK, but the country is barely 1000 miles long.
Organisation is unnecessary. We can guarantee there'll be people at any open site running an event on that day.
Also, when organisation is necessary, it won't be done on a forum, it'll be done on Facebook, or with a booking page on the site operator's website.
Woodland or CQB????
in General Discussion
Posted
Late to the party, but I think the question paints it as being a bit black or white.
What I like, is good cover that's evenly spaced, and CQB typically does this a lot better than woodland, by nature of there being mostly man made things everywhere, often including the physical site itself - buildings.
I hate the uncertainty provided by thick vegetation, it often comes down to who has the more ammo or the higher rof. I might see someone through a bush, but if I engage, I only have 30 round mags. Even if I shoot first there's no guarantee BBs will make it through, and high cap users can just saw holes through things to hit me. It just feels a bit cheap.
Woodland also invariably involves a lot of "Hmm... That guy's just out of range" moments, where opposing forces are just slinging 80 tons of plastic through the air at each other, just out of range, but there's no cover between you or them in order for anyone to close the distance. People know if they move up first they're the one who's going to lose, because the enemy already have their guns up and then can see where you're going. They just need to laser beam all their shots just ahead of where you want to be and you're done.
CQB is a lot more about out thinking people, because there's ample places to go and things to do in order to cover your tracks, the cover is generally BB proof so there's no uncertainty, and high caps offer no advantages because there's good cover for reloads, tactics and angles of exposure can be utilised a lot better for getting team mates to protect you on reloads, and it's often single shot only so people have to learn to lead their targets.
That said, there are good woodland sites, but I find that they're often paintball sites first, airsoft sites second. Paintball is played in fast paced game modes in small areas with lots of cover, so you rarely get instances where people are out of range, the cover's always good and well spaced/planned out, but airsoft guns have better accuracy, so you can play the angles a lot more effectively.