Adolf Hamster

Funny i was thinking there about the irony that i dislike the l85 for being too damn heavy In my defence its only heavy after i plastered it in stuff that looks cool but had limited usage in outdoor daylight games..... and then the idea fairy struck and was like "you should definately mount that gen1 scope on it too just to really go over the top"

Can i just jump in to point out the irony of proper folding being a bad idea on ar's when putting buffer tubes on guns that can have proper folders apparently isnt

welcome to soviet firearms you think the siderail is bad try plastering an ak in zenitco...... and then mounting a pbs-4 on it......... and buying the steel lct version that's like 1.75lb.......... on the plus side i don't need to go to a gym to weightlift any more

not so much a fan of that front hood myself, but airsoft optics are about 90% personal taste (until you're wanting to put the money into something with decent parallax) the mini red dot (open rmr type thing) i think doesn't work so well on a siderail, just looks like a lot of mount with not a lot of optic. however they do work quite nicely on a gas tube mount. although again that's a personal taste thing.

on a siderail those super cheap 1x30 tube optics look kind of decent, poor man's pk-a: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Goetland-Reflex-Rifle-Scope-Mounts/dp/B074LHCRGJ/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=1x30mm+red+dot]&qid=1616704840&sr=8-14 ^note they can be found in that style cheaper, it's just the first hit on amazon. granted they're *ahem* "airsoft grade" when it comes to parralax at least going by the one i have which is presumably churned out from the same factory.

that's the system i preferr, seems more solid at retaining zero than the ones integrated into the top cover. gas block/sight block mount works too although not good for magnified. one thing i would suggest is going for something low-profile/without risers, by the time you get to the siderail there's already a fair chunk of bore offset on an ak, although granted it seems like the russians don't care going by the state of their optics.

while you wait? i'd just keep saving in the meantime and not get anything, bigger budget+ukara=shinier pew, you don't have too far to go before you can look at some of the cracker budget guna it's pretty much the same as any other forum find a gun you like, message the seller, strike a deal in conversation, pay by paypal and they'll post out. you do still need a defence to get a non 2-tone secondhand i'm afraid. in terms of scams, well there's nothing perfect, but generally i'll stick with the following: if it sounds too good to be true it probably is, you can occasionally get cracker bargains on here but if something seems off just walk away, patience is the key. keep all conversation on here, don't go using email/text message as if there's an issue it'll be harder for the admin to help out and ban the scammer. always pay with paypal goods and services, never with friends and family. if the seller asks to pay f&f pay goods and services but add the fees on top yourself (you can google the rates), friends and family has zero comeback if they pull a fast one what that won't necessarily protect you from however is the hidden demons, most commonly from bad tech-work but it's worth noting that this doesn't mean the seller is intentionally selling a gun with a problem, folk can sell stuff with no idea what's going on under the hood. even brand new guns aren't immune from this, but if you've bought brand new from a retailer (especially uk based) then at least you can send it back (they'll normally "repair" which can very depending on the skills of the shop tech), however with a second hand gun it's entirely caveat emptor. unfortunately the only sure-fire way to protect yourself from that issue is to be proficient enough at tech work yourself to be able to fix a gun that has problems like that, which is why it's generally not considered the wisest idea to jump straight into buying secondhand for your first gun. ^solid advice there, if you're gonna spend on anything spend on that.

as much as we all know the excitement of wanting to get yourself setup, why not wait a bit? keep saving, wait for sites to re-open, do your games to get ukara and have a bigger budget to have some fun with?

tbh, red dot. the main thing magnification is useful for in airsoft is shot-tracking, but if you've got the gun dialed in and are shooting at an honest target you can do anything at airsoft ranges with no magnification. how are you planning on mounting? siderail ris/top cover or gas block?

as @Shamal suggests it's probably gonna be a stretch to get something new and get attatchments. first things first- have you played to get ukara etc? because that's gonna affect your options (fewer 2-tones going through the classifieds) next is have you any equipment already? things like eye-pro, batteries, chargers etc or are you trying to get a full starter package for that budget? i'd suggest forgetting about attatchments initially, easy enough to pick up things like scopes/flashlights/grips etc cheap off the classifieds as and when they pop up.

suddenly i understand why the WE luger's hop unit is upside down......

yep. why make brand new custom moulds when you can take last years worn out moulds, mill it out a bit, call it a "reinforced" receiver and sell the same internals as a brand new gun. it's tricky because cheap m4's are what sell, and whilst it's understandable why it's so popular as a platform it does get a bit samey after the 1000th m4 on the field. it's one of the things i respect companies like WE for, as much as they get hate for their hit/miss quality they at least have the cajones to make stuff nobody else does (and have a decent enough supply of parts where you aren't afraid to skirmish their rarer pieces).

The out of stock thing i dont think is corona related, i think its mostly a combination of lazy updating of sites and the desire to make a small business look bigger by listing a wide array of stock. Its been that way since before the 'rona

hmm, so not the thrust bearings then. generally i like to run at least one on the guide but skip the one in the piston to save weight. in terms of ported/unported cylinders, aeg's have a bit of flexibility (hpa's for example tend to be much more sensitive to volume where it really does matter, but then you can also adjust it much easier). i have run unported cylinders on shorter barreled builds in the past and it's worked fine. better to be over than under, and ultimately if the gun shoots good it shoots good, doesn't matter how you acheive it. by all rights it *shouldnt* make a difference if the existing volume is correct, but evidently there's something weird going on here.

Thought popped into my head- whats the state of thrust bearings in the 2 guns your using? That'll change your fps a bit depending on wether you're running one, both, or none.

Ok i'm actually starting to hate that abomination unto god a bit less now it kinda looks like something tiny tina from bl2 would use

Yeah the support gun box is solid, but open gears+dirt=urrrgh That said i found a twig inside an m14 box once so not even closed boxes are safe.....

That's a really neat idea. Cheaper than my plan of buying a scorpion just for spring testing

a&k are a weird one, i've mostly worked on their lmg's but generally they have some good design features and pretty reasonable quality. but then they do some stuff really badly, like the open-bottomed gearbox or the frankly atrocious state of their hop rubbers. fair enough, if you find anything else interesting let us know if only to satiate my rubbernecking

side option if the spring doesn't fit- stack a bunch of o-rings up instead, has the side benefit of being a slightly tighter fit. silicone hose also works quite well.

hpa is a tricky beast. you put the effort in to set them up right they can give top end performance for the fundamental task of slinging plastic downrange, perfect trigger response and do it super-quiet or super-loud depending on your tastes. however whilst the air line isn't as awkward as most anti-hpa guys make it out to be, the ancillary stuff is a bit of a faff especially if you have to work around sites that don't have filling facilities. i think what killed it for me was all that expense and effort to get the perfect shot could be countered with zero cost and effort by the target simply ignoring the hits (or shouting friendly fire when you sneak up behind them).

i probably would go for 13:1 because i'm insane. or more correctly i spoiled myself with hpa mouse-button triggers and now i'm desperately trying to get an aeg to match up in response.

sounds like a warranty return they've had their "tech" look at then shoved back on the shelves? wood screws sounds like proper bubba spec even by the standards of airsoft retailers. dunno what your plans are but i would be curious to see luke's diagnosis of just what's happened to it.

yeah, it's a tricky one though i have a habit of mistrusting pre-production samples these days. the rc thing is an interesting litmus test, never ran them back in the day (was always an internal combustion guy) but the performance even back then was undeniable. like i say the main issue is nobody drives an rc the way we'd run airsoft guns, and i very much am in the semi-spam camp rather than using auto (just feels better having direct control on exactly how many rounds i'm sending downrange) so stop-start is the hell my guns have to put up with

Yeah, i'm not a big expert on brushless, but from a mechanical sense it should be even more resilient. Electrically i'm guessing the controller will either ignore ab from the mosfet, or maybe take the signal and translate to its own braking. I am kinda tempted, have a new build in the works. Might be a tad spicy for my original dsg plans though.