Adolf Hamster

don't blame ye, 90% of the firing i did with mine was in bursts outdoors, admittedly i lean towards semi in other guns, where the trigger isn't made by black and decker..... it's one of the issues with the more obscure platforms is getting weird niggles like this, if it's any consolation the original g&g was every bit as bad but throw in lack of available spares for the trigger/col and lacking the end-game option. unlikely, out of the 2 the col is the thing that'll wear. don't think i've ever seen a sector cam actually wear out (as opposed to the default shape not matching a given col for a given box)

tbh i don't think search terms are the issue as much as i don't think there'd be many options to begin with. at least as a pre-made unit. the systems like the ones you linked have the rail just screwed on, easily removed and you could fit some 11mm rail by tapping it onto the base which usually is chunky enough (by airsoft standards). i had a night vision scope was mounted that way (albeit bolted direct to the scope and with intense paranoia about the mount being too weak to hold what was a monstrous optic)

hmm, i was expecting the opposite- no dice unless you operate the trigger "in a soldierly fashion" we haven't quite exhausted all the options, although the final option i'm certain will work it's not particularly appealing.

that was my initial feeling, but the issue is that whereas in a normal gun the COL gets lifted free when used in auto that's not happening. although i've had plenty of v3 boxes firing a lot of rounds in semi auto to suggest they shouldn't wear out that quickly. the thing i'm thinking is it's essentially half-pulling the trigger in normal use, compared to how it'd be in its normal ak role which is what the trigger/trolley/col was originally designed around. i must admit, i'm getting a lot of deja vu here. col's wearing out quicker than you'd expect (granted on the g&g it's as much due to the weird leverage it's being put through) and being just a bit finnicky on semi. fingers crossed, if not there are still some cards left to play. is an interesting solution, but it's for the g&g non mosfet version, although granted i wish it had been a thing when i was going through this

hmm, that's very definitely the col failing to lift the trolley. wonder is the col worn? i know i said i didn't think it had earlier but i'm starting to doubt myself on that front. looks like it's in constant engagement, usually when you fire in auto it's lifted out of engagement to stop it wearing out as quickly. other thing might be worth trying, but if you remove the auto contacts (as in physically remove them, not just isolate the wiring) and see if the extra clearance to pull the trigger back lets it trip properly?

i mean compared to what some people do to ak stocks, some filthy, heretical people.....

hmm, i thought you could turn it off on the merf, compared to say the nanoaab (picoaab? something like that) where it's permanent. that could well be a potential candidate then, i certainly wouldn't be ruling it out as causing this as i've seen more than enough guns go from chugging all day long to barely scrape a few shots thanks to ab. pinching this pic from earlier in the thread: the trigger will push the trolley forwards, the col kicks it up, the return spring pulls it backwards over the top of the trigger (well, the trigger extension) until it's reset. come to think of it, looking at that picture, is that spring (the one just above the arrow tip) getting pinched? kinda looks it? that should be the spring that pulls the trolley back. that shouldn't be affecting it as long as it's able to do a complete cycle. only real issues you'd see is either the wrong type or worn out col (unlikely in this case- i'm assuming those are original parts and not that old) or the sector gear shimmed way too high (again unlikely, it's pretty tricky to go that extreme)

so it's still firing bursts on semi? the mosfet should only run while it's getting continuity between the 2 signal wires, it relies on the gun to shut off. if it keeps getting signal it thinks it's just being run in auto. the paper will prevent the auto contacts from triggering, which is easy to accidentally trip when testing on the bench (the g&g v6 has the same issue, albeit with the "trigger" being mounted in a different place) so the gun isn't shutting off, one thing to check- do you have ab enabled? if you do try turning it off as that can cause some weird issues (took me years to figure out thats what the issue with mine was). the other thing, which is what you've been looking at, is that the contacts don't engage too early, in a position where the COL isn't able to trip them when it fires. do you need it semi only for DMR power? if so then one way would be to remove the connection to the auto contacts

You can cutoff the vent hole by replacing the cylinder for one without the matching hole, the hole in the gearbox shell would then be redundant. Iirc you have to remove the rubber gasket as well but the rest of the blowback components you fit normally. It'd still be a weak point for a future crack though

generally i tend to suggest cleaning the barrel before every outing, it might be dirty, it might not, but if you clean it before every game then it definitely won't be dirty. it's not particularly time consuming or difficult and it's amazing how much performance can be lost through lack of cleaning. suggesting upgrades is a very personal thing as it'll depend a lot on what particular area of performance you want to improve, and how far you want to go in improving it. so the general advice is leave it alone, go and play a few games, then start thinking "what is my gun not doing well enough for me?", followed up by "how much better will i be happy with?", then you can come back with a more specific question and we can advise on what areas you'd want to look at to address that issue. you'll also get a good feel on how well the gun performs so when you start tinkering you have an idea whether or not the work you've done has actually made the gun any better, because that's not necessarily a guarantee.

hmm, that's the pneumatic blowback system. the tricky thing is if you replace the gearbox shell for a standard shell there won't be any accommodation for the blowback components, so the interface for your charging handle and mock bolt cover possibly won't fit. i've worked on the m4 variant of this box and i'll be honest i'm not a fan of that system, the blowback is a horrendous source of air leaks giving inconsistent performance. if it weren't cracked i'd be suggesting to de-activate it, which is fortunately not too complex you just replace the stock cylinder for one without the vent hole at the top, it'll lose the blowback but gain shot-shot consistency (aka accuracy), although you might need to drop the spring as the existing one will be slightly stronger than normal to account for the air used for the blowback. if you can find that same type of shell, then that might be the easiest option, do the above de-activation of the blowback and run a lighter spring (will lessen the load on the casing making it less likely to crack again) whilst still allowing you to have the blowback cylinder in-place so it can interface with the charging handle/bolt cover. otherwise you might have to leave the bolt cover out, which is fine as it's just cosmetic but it won't look nice having the hop unit always on display. there's also the issue that another box might not quite line up right in the reciever/be subtly different and cause issues. in terms of the gearbox internals, i'm wondering if what's happened is the system has somehow stopped just before release, then the motor hasn't had the torque to get it moving again when it's trying to start under full load. hard to tell from the description if the piston/gears need changing or not, some pics might be helpful? in terms of mosfets then it's a case of what sort of functionality do you want? is it just saving the trigger contacts from burning out or do you want fancy shenanigans like precocking as well?

the light wire is fine for the majority of the wiring going from the mosfet and across the 2 sets of contacts. you'd only need enough heavy gauge wire to go from the motor to wherever the mosfet is going to be, for example the one terminal already going to the deans connector from the motor won't need touched, just trim the other wire coming from that deans and plug it straight into the motor. something like this: remove the green-traced wire entirely, cut the black striped wire where the green X is and solder it (black line) to the motor spade (or the the motor, if you feel so inclined) your other 2 red wires you could leave as-is, personally i'd swap them for the light-gauge wire for the sake of neatness but that's up to you. edit: some top tier mspaint skills later: so wiring wise: 1 has light wire going to the smaller mosfet connector, and to point 5 (which one doesn't matter) 2 has light wire going to the smaller mosfet connector and to point 6 (which one doesn't matter, as long as it's not connected to 1 or 5) points 3&4 are wired with heavy wire to the mosfet deans connector (with polarity matched for the right motor direction), like the above pic.

personally, i'd go with the 2-wire setup. iirc they give you plenty of wire with the 2 sets of connectors, enough to trim a length off to bridge the semi and auto connectors (if not, lemme know, mans probably has some lying around somewhere) then run the heavy gauge direct from the mosfet to the motor (only place it's needed), basically the 2 motor spades going into the same deans plug which then goes to the mosfet.

it's possible @Iceni's theory about the wiring being off is maybe happening. normally with the gate mosfets i find it much easier to use the 2-wire setup (as in @Iceni's drawing) than try and muddle through the single wire setup, although bearing in mind the pic is the g&g v6 box rather than the cyma v3, but the same general idea just the contacts are in different locations.

As above- cyma are pretty much the baseline of solid all-rounder, e&l are more expensive but have prettier externals which will rust. Either are good choices, depending on your budget and wether you like a heavy gun or a light gun. The jg's arent bad shooters with a bit of tinkering, although the term "blowback" is a bit of a stretch, whilst the system is somewhat fragile it's also relatively easily deactivated and it'll run as a regular aeg. Ran one for years as my backup/loaner gun and it was genuinely a fun little shooter that i'd often run just for the hell of it.

Never actually broke a loading nozzle on the makarov, admittedly i bulged one but that was definately qc failure and nothing to do with it being fed .48's......

precocking is like a timer that runs after the col has tripped and keeps the motor running a few milliseconds before (usually) applying active brake. usually lockups with active brake are the product of a system that doesn't need it stopping too quickly when the brake is applied (ie col trips and it stops immediately), without active brake the motor naturally rolls on for a little bit of precocking (ie how guns without mosfets work) until natural friction/energy compressing the spring is enough to halt it. i suppose if the precocking is set too high it might be rolling right around and approaching that lockup point from the other side (although would probably be intermittent double firing too)

I dunno, the we makarov is pretty decent once you get the hop sorted, although granted not a strong cold weather performer.

generally i consider there to be 4 categories of mosfets: basic mosfers (nanoasr, the basic perun mosfet etc) that won't do anything here beyond save the trigger contacts from burnout mosfets with fixed active brake (eg nanoaab, nanohard, merf, etc) which have active braking but no precocking mosfets with precocking (warfet, ab++) optical mosfets. generally speaking category 1 is my default for guns that i'm not pushing performance out of and just want the contact protection. category 2 is a tricky one, i'd generally avoid them as active brake may well help in the situation of double firing, but if you decided to run the gun on 7.4 again you might find there's the opposite problem of too much ab, with the system stopping too quickly and getting lockups on semi. category 3 will solve both the semi firing and lockup issues as well as the added benefit that the precocking will do a lot for helping perceived "response" in semi, you might find that depending on your goals running these with 7.4 is good enough without the rof climbing too high. and category 4 is basically for the perfectionists for whom good enough is never good enough. so basically the ab++ would be a solid choice here, i'm not a fan of using the trigger for mosfet programming but for the most part these things you do them right once and forget about it.

14mmccw is usually used as an external thread, so you'd need the barrel to extend beyond the end of the slide: which the tokarev simply isn't setup to do. if you want a russian pistol with a suppressor then look at the WE makarov- it'll come with a threaded barrel and matching suppressor.

It is a thing, personally i've generally stuck with matched ends (ie upper and lower side if you're looking during assembly). Bushings on the sector make sense, as it takes the most direct load in terms of the spring and impact loadings and spins at the slowest speeds. Likewise bearings on the bevel make sense in terms of it having the lowest loadings but highest speeds. However for the most part i've not really been too fussed about bearings/bushings, but then i'm building my guns to a 1j limit so i'm not as concerned about the mechanical loading on the box.

as a general rule, gbb's will just vent if they're unable to cycle far enough back to trip the cutoff, so sadly i don't think this is going to work in a slide-locked mode as the first shot it'll just empty the mag of gas (which may or may not have a significant impact on the fps)

Hmm, may be lost connection to/between one of the cells. Tbh, i'm not one for some of the "fixes" folk do for batteries, i just get new ones if there's an issue. Although admittedly i've also been mostly lucky with them.

do you have a voltage checker see what the cell voltages are? not sure which charger you're using, but i've seen it happen before where a charger has failed to charge one of the cells and killed the battery. i use an etronix battery doctor (other brands are available) and it's a helpful reassurance even for just checking "did i remember to charge this?" before game day.

i generally hold that nominal bore size is less important than overall quality in terms of straightness, consistency of diameter and finish. and overall it's easily overcome by even mild deficiencies elsewhere in terms of air seal, hop and ammo quality.