Adolf Hamster

ahh yes, the budget option.....

has the seller been upfront about the storage in the advertisement? and if not, do they have any basis to justify not doing so (eg test firing to ensure function etc)? perhaps initially messaging them and asking them to mention it in the ad might be a better route than calling them out? at least as a starting point.

Cost-performance is a personal thing, i'd say grab a bag of the heavies (0.4g+ geoffs) to try, and see if the benefit is worth it to you.

A fair point.

i hope it's current owner is able to get their money back.

Mosfet wise for cheep and cheerful i tend to go with the nanoasr, that way its a plug and play swap if you ever want to put something like a warfet on. Not sure motor wise, never really dealt with mid-length aside from accidentally ordering a lonex mid length from gunfire (back when you could order from them)

generally i'd just leave it as-is, mock suppressor is fine for looks but you shouldn't need the inner barrel inside it if it's not clipping. indeed it's a boon if you wanted to put a tracer unit inside the suppressor to keep the shorter barrel, or if you want to occasionally change it up with standard/suppressed looks. gear ratio won't have an effect on volume unless you're short stroking, and if you're short stroking as long as you don't go shorter than the length of the port it's also fine. sadly no, sitting duck was better at this sort of thing than me, i usually just stick with whatever the gun came with. if in doubt go higher volume. fortunately aeg's aren't as sensitive to it as for example hpa where mis-adjusted volume can seriously affect accuracy (although fortunately it's also super easy to adjust on those platforms)

pretty much zci would be my pick for bang for buck, not used the aols so can't comment. can't say from what i've seen of madbull stuff over the years that i'd be keen to use their barrels, especially aluminium, and especially not when the zci exists. worth noting, there's not really any benefit in extending the inner barrel from a performance perspective, and can mess with things like voluming.

couple of options. with the motor removed probably the least damaging is to have a (flat ended) rod (eg a hex driver) up through the nozzle, push backwards to complete the cycle then gently release other option is to pull the arl out of engagement, although it depends on the box how easy that can be (some have a cutout for this exact purpose)

i mean part of me is genuinely curious as to the standard of workmanship in those guns. although not £1300 curious.....

i wish i had the money do to that just to send it to luke.....

is it bad that i could all but predict the parts list in that m4? admittedly i'd have said maxx rather than pro-win for the hop, but guess they only took every even-numbered reply from reddit.... not gonna lie, looking forward to seeing luke get his hands on one of these....

I was thinking more that letting that green wear in, get scuffed up etc to show black underneath would look quite good, if the 2-tone wasnt showing. Motor springs can work sometimes (assuming that's long enough) and smaller diameter than a mainspring. The carboning can happen surprisingly quickly, remember working on an ak that looked immaculate save for the carboned contacts. Can be hard to track down, tbh if it were me i'd be re-wiring it, but then if it were me that'd happen for a mosfet regardless of the state of functionality of the original setup.

That has scrubbed up nicely, the only thing i'd be worried about is as it wears in the 2-tone might still show up underneath, which might spoil an otherwise nice looking pew. The lost parts thing, well it happens. Part of why keeping a hold of random odd spares is worth doing because you never know when the differential bushing of an hpi baja will find a new home as a spacer for a mainspring in an airsoft pew..... Not fitting parts because they're a pain is something i've done plenty, you do a "barebones" rebuild to make sure the important stuff is working right then when your sure its all good you can go to the effort of installing the awkward and annoying bits that dont really do much important. Sadly i dont know sigs well enough to help with where the current missing peices should be going. Wiring wise it does sound like theres an iffy connection somewhere, did you split the box? Could possibly be carboned up contacts?

There's always one.....

i must admit, having used mainly russian gear mostly in the name of comfort (having never really gotten into the exact replicating a loadout thing) it's a tricky one. as has been mentioned a lot of loadouts can be interpreted offensively depending on the person viewing it, and it's generally accepted that it's just part of the game and often people's choice of loadout doesn't mean an affiliation with that nations politics. but given the present circumstances it's probably best to avoid it if you can for the time being, presumably if you're a site regular then folk will probably for the most part understand if you show up in the same kit you always wear because that's what you have. on the flip side, you could argue that no matter what you wear taking part in pewing whilst the ukrainians are having to deal with it for real has an element of disrespect, and perhaps, as someone mentioned in a status update, sending this weekends pewing fee's to the red cross or similar humanitarian organisations would be the right thing to do that this time.

Fun fact- you can also lock a we ct25 into one of those holsters

you can do it manually, so normally it should be done when an item has been sold (eg i do it when i have received money on paypal). sellers who aren't doing that will only get a week before the ad expires and they presumably won't bump a sold item. usually i tend to ignore any completed ads and only really pay attention to uncompleted ones if i really want the item (in which case i'll send a message knowing there's a decent chance of no reply) op- assuming you're messaging folk about current ads (ie not completed/uncompleted listings as above) you might want to think about how you're opening conversations with folk, a friendly "hey man, i see you have an ad running, is this still available?" will give a better impression than a blunt "where u live?" or "gie ye a fiver" low-ball offer. i do make a point of trying to reply to everyone who messages me about ads, but i can understand how some folk might not do that, especially if it's an account with minimal forum presence. another thing to bear in mind is that sometimes pm notifications can be a bit iffy (well, i've had a couple of occasions where it doesn't give me a notifications for new messages), so sending a chaser message isn't the worst idea, although obviously you don't want to spam someone's inbox every 5 minutes demanding a reply. rule of thumb i tend to go with is at least a full working day as folk may well not be visiting the site on weekends if they're out doing things (the most obvious example being out playing airsoft), if i've sent a chaser and they don't get back then i'll just assume they either don't visit that often or for whatever reason don't want to reply, sometimes they do reply a week later sometimes that's where it ends.

So there's presumably not many people playing airsoft, or if they are theyre doing it for free so why would they pay?

^what he said

The "licence" is more of a defence, and you'll need it for any gun-shaped-object of the airsoft variety. Of the 2 you've listed i'd lean tm, if only because vfc have a reputation for making pretty but unreliable pews. The best option would be to get your brother involved in the process, assuming he's already into airsoft he'll have a better notion for what he specifically wants and have the relevant defences to buy it. It does take the surprise element out of the gift but i reckon he'd preferr that to randomly recieving a 2-toned pew that may not be his cup of tea.

tbf, the v3 aint that bad. now the v7 on the other hand......

pretty standard for non QD boxes for the mainspring to make a bid for freedom when separating the halves. a screwdriver through the hole in the spring guide (the same one the stock tube bolts into) pressed/angled down and keeping pressure on the cylinder when popping the halves will normally stop that from happening.

wind would definately do it, if that weren't a factor i'd be thinking that kind of dispersion there's maybe some grit in the barrel (assuming there's no supressor shenanigans that the rounds might be clipping) and so it begins