Adolf Hamster

i'd be hesitant about shortening the nozzle, if this were a drop-in engine in a donor chassis then yes nozzle length is a thing to worry about but as this is an all-in one platform we should be able to assume the nozzle is the correct length. feels like it's an issue with how it's been assembled, but exactly what i don't know.

iirc last time i had an offer i just sent them a pm to have a more conventional dialogue and closed the sale that way. tbh, i'm not really sure on the whole site-organization of things like offers, postage etc as it's kinda making the site a part of the transaction but not really as it's still just between 2 individuals. that said, i'm not exactly doing a lot of buying/selling so it doesn't really matter all that much to me.

sub-optimal air seal is something i'd expect on a lot of new guns to some extent let alone a secondhand gun. tbh i'd say a secondhand pew showing up with perfect airseal would be more noteworthy. same with wobble, ar derivatives between the upper and lower or ak frontends getting loose are pretty typical. hard to be more exact without knowing exactly what type of gun it was.

Taking what you've put at face value: You sold a gun, with known faults which the buyer was happy to accept They then either used, or immediately dissassembled it and found/possibly caused a broken part Despite the usual caveat emptor of second hand sales you offered a partial refund, which they refused. If it were me i'd say no to a full refund. Its an understood part of buying secondhand that any pew can have hidden gremlins that even a honest seller might not be aware of, hell even face to face sales where you can test a gun is no guarantee. Some people aren't happy buying something with potential faults and no comeback and choose to avoid secondhand sales for that exact reason.

if you're gonna try shimming if you start out over-shimming, then drop it down until you get decent air seal? that way the nozzle is too far back rather than too far forward. kinda the opposite of trimming a nozzle where you shorten in little increments to be sure not to take too much off. that is, assuming there isn't some trick to the system that we don't know.

those torn lips will absolutely ruin the consistency, tbh i'm almost surprised it's not worse than it is. if it's tearing the lips like that then something mustn't be right, and nozzle as you're already thinking seems like the likely culprit, maybe going too far forward?

in that case your usual ammo weight for an assault gun would be a good pick if that's how you're gonna be using it, but if you wanna try heavier than why not. just a maple leaf macaron (green)+ omega nub, not particularly exotic, and bearing in mind that's at 1j. ofc you had to get all your firing done in the morning if you wanted to make hits in the afternoon..... even used to run them in the makarov at ~0.7-0.75j and it'd lift them. range was hilarious but given i can't shoot pistols for shit it was kinda pointless, especially as it had a habit of bulging nozzles so i stopped using them.

i'm probably the wrong person to be responding to this but as heavy as you can get, then fit a maple leaf setup to get it to lift it...... jokes aside, as with all things it's a cost versus performance balance, and it's up to you. whilst i have fed a polarstar .48's and it was hilarious the little "ker-ching" noise every time you pull the trigger is an incessant reminder of how much money is going downrange so run whatever you think has the right balance for you. one thing you need to be careful with on an hpa setup is joule creep, you want to be sure you're setting your pressures/dwell etc to the ammo you're using in-game and not anything lighter.

that'd do quite literally the opposite, there's no tactile break with an optical trigger

i'll be honest, i don't think i've ever seen this happen, at least not in a way that was noteworthy. tbh, if i thought about it i'd say drop it, because i can imagine that'd be an amusing way to frag your own team. although that said, if you dropped it i doubt any team mates would take it judging by the prevalance of people assuming freindly fire doesnt count regardless of the site's policy.

np man, at least now you know what the limitations are for the jack

i'd certainly say it's the more future proof platform, able to go into a wider range of donor guns (should you ever fancy doing that for the change) and whilst there's a lot more to the tuning to get it dialled in, it's at least able to get great consistency when you get it set (read: about as good as it's possible to get) it'll have the same response as the jack (on a technical, if not necessarily practical standpoint the response is marginally quicker in closed bolt operation not that you can even notice, they're both mouse-clicks), it won't quite be able to do the a-10 levels of brrt as the jack, but it'll still run plenty fast enough. if cost isn't too big a deal then that'd be my pick, if cost is a factor then there are the likes of the wolverine systems, although i'm not so familiar with their limitations in terms of precision.

fair enough, a jack can be about equivalent to a decent-ish aeg when setup properly, but the laser beam of a dialled in f2/fusion it is not. it will however have better semi response than any aeg and rate of fire can easily go above what would generally be considered to be acceptable.

what kind of play do you normally do? if you're predominantly cqb focused and just want the trigger response then that's fine. if you're playing outdoors and want a range focus then i might suggest the jack isn't the engine for you, it's an open bolt design with fundamental barriers to getting really good consistency.

gotta vote for the warhead. about the only downside is the motor tabs are very weak, and you really gotta be careful not to strain them when adding/removing contacts (although afaik they've been working at improving that since i had mine) otherwise handles a titan just fine (with precocking/ab), i went with the standard speed so auto on 13:1 came out ~18rps but with a much much better response in semi than that number would imply.

if the barrel seems clean then that's a good sign it's not that, for the hop can sometimes be very subtle, especially with fancy contact patches (eg ml). not outside the realm of possibility, that's the nozzle alignment you normally hear talked about with converting aeg's. for example dropping a fusion engine into a reciever that doesn't quite line up right compared to the original gearbox is a common issue. that said, you wouldn't normally expect it to be an issue on a factory built gun like the tippmanns (or the mtw). one wonders if perhaps it's a side effect of the barrel swap (ie something not being lined up properly on reassembly), i've never taken a tippmann apart so idk if that's a possibility.

consistently curving to the right sounds like the hop isn't sitting square, usual suspects being inner barrel being slightly rotated, the hop arm/nub not being square or the hop rubber not sitting right. other option could be some damage to the inner barrel or some aspect of the outer barrel (particularly prevalent with suppressors) that the bb is clipping on the way out. however that should be a fixable issue, worst case maybe a new barrel if it's damaged but more likely just a re-seating of the barrel and hop components.

cyma, electric

Aye the issue isnt the fitting, its the mechanics of how the engine runs. Yeah every tippmann owner i've talked to has good things to say, and what little trigger time i have on them was pretty decent. Good good, not worth risking an out of date tank. Yeah you're on your own there

some regs need to be turned on as well as adjusted to pressure, or perhaps it was low on air. did you find out what engine it had? a scuba cylinder is a damn handy thing to have, but be sure to check that it's all up to date on inspection/safety testing, 3000psi is not joking around pressure. that's a tricky one to gauge. you get a well setup system with the right supporting elements (barrel, hop, ammo) then it'll be great, but as i mentioned before certain setups can struggle to match what a decent aeg can do. i'm not familiar enough with the mechanics of the tippmann system to really comment what the ceiling is for them. if your goal is range/accuracy then i'd suggest looking at the polarstar f2, it's pricey but it's pretty adaptable (in terms of what guns you can/can't put it in) and if you get it dialled in right (with the right supporting elements) it's not far, possibly even right on the limit of what an airsoft pew can do. only reason i sold mine was because i was quitting the whole hpa ecosystem.

afaik aren't the current tippmanns semi-only? i recall something about only the early versions being auto capable, but slap a big citation needed on that. that said the owners i've talked to all seem to like them. one thing to bear in mind with conversions is what engine is being used, as that will define a lot about the ability to dial it in to good performance. eg open bolt systems like the polarstar jack/f1 have fundamental problems with getting good consistency compared to closed bolt systems like the f2/fusion- worth checking what's in the evo you're looking at. the wolverine systems claim closed bolt, but i've not used them enough to comment fairly on how they perform. i wouldn't be too worried about conversion, it's a relatively easy process (compared to aeg teching anyway) and for the most part nozzle alignment isn't too bad if the gearbox used is correct for the bodyshell (ie you started with a complete donor gun). normally nozzle alignment gets talked about with regards to the likes of the fusion engine, which as a total gearbox replacement has the same "compatible ish" fitment problems that you'd get with an aftermarket aeg gearbox. the mid cap problem is easy to solve- get an odin

you're right that is worse

is that the one that looks cool in video games but only because video games cant convey the fact that it weighs approximately 19.48 tons?

what have you heard? that drawing was ISO standard not my fault i only had crayons

normally i tend to go for the standard (not swiss cheesed, you can save more weight by not running a thrust bearing on the piston end) rocket/shs pistons from ak2m4. either 14.5t or a 15t and file down a tooth as appropriate. steel rack can push the problem elsewhere, but they can still fail, especially if the rack isn't glued in proper.