Adolf Hamster

Dry fires sound like dn/dr, cant remember which is the opening one (the manual should clarify, i wanna say dn is opening delay and dr is closing delay) but increase that a tad might help feeding issues.

true, this is how i usually deal with it. selling secondhand in airsoft you're already tanking such a loss just from the way the market works what's a few extra £ on fees for a safe transaction.

starting to remember part of where my affinity for the ak platform came from......

whilst i can get that it's a potential pressure tactic, it can also be viewed as a case of him letting you know there's competition and if you really want it then make your decision quickly. it may not be the most diplomatic wording, but i don't really see anything wrong with that. hell i've made mention myself if an item has demand and someone wants to wait a few days before paying, if only to be clear that i deal entirely first come first serve.

^what 'borg said

it can be the case that you can do X on a fully wound mag, but Y on an empty mag. the issue i had when messing with this was i was running low pressures to be in the fps limit and on the first half dozen or so rounds in a midcap it couldn't feed. but a redneck low-flow mod fixed that issue.

pretty much it might be the case that there are feeding issues before you hit the max theoretical rf setting, depends on the mag/ammo.

ease of fitting. it depends on the particular optic, some it's not too difficult to press/glue/blu-tac an acrylic disc into the existing housing to act as a sacrificial protector with no asthetic issues. the rail mounted options are easy and work for sights where doing the above isn't easy/possible. some folks (hello) really dislike the external protectors, and if they can't do a subtle method of protection just run without and accept that the occasional broken optic is gonna be a thing. that said i've so far only had 2 optics lost to getting shot out so far and both of them were amazon specials.

you set the dp in semiauto as @Steveocee says by decreasing incrementally until you get a drop in energy, then switch to auto and do the same process for increasing rf incrementally. worth noting this should be done on your in-game ammo and in-game pressures, and if you significantly change your ammo weight on a regular basis then you'll need to do it again to get it set optimally.

rf and dp are related. dp set to its most effecient will place a hard limit on the rate of fire you can get before loss of performance as it's essentially time per shot. in an engine like the f2 the dp (and other) settings override the rf setting, so if rf is set higher than the system times your final rate of fire is however fast the rest of the system timings dictate. on the jack it's the other way round, rf can overrule dp, so if your optimum dp is slower than the rf setting allows then your going to be under-volumed on auto (similar to an aeg when it gets a mild case of pme) the way to tune this is to set the rf setting same as you set dp, only with bursts of auto instead of single shots. however there's an even easier way to tune it- set it to 25rps, that way you're not "that guy" with the bb hoze.....

trying to haggle an offer is fine, and £28 doesn't seem to be an insultingly low value imo.- not an asshole likewise refusing offers isn't really an issue. -not an asshole agreeing to original pricing because you still want it is fine too. -not an asshole putting paypal fee's on top of a listed price. -it shoulda been part of the listed price or at least made clear one way or the other, so kinda an asshole maybe but not in a big way. leaving feedback on a sale that didn't go through? - sorry but that's an asshole move tit for tat feedback- you attack someone can't blame em for responding. overall verdict- seller should have simply included paypal fee's in original price (or at least been clear on what the deal was). any time i list a posted price that is the all-in and if i get a few £ less than that because of paypal fees well that's the cost of a safe payment service you can use with random internet strangers. however you should have just walked away and called it at that. i'll be honest, i'd have just paid the fees. indeed i have done it voluntarily when an ad asks for f&f i just pay goods and services with a little extra to cover the fees, i think of it as insurance should something go south.

i'd be hesitant about shortening the nozzle, if this were a drop-in engine in a donor chassis then yes nozzle length is a thing to worry about but as this is an all-in one platform we should be able to assume the nozzle is the correct length. feels like it's an issue with how it's been assembled, but exactly what i don't know.

iirc last time i had an offer i just sent them a pm to have a more conventional dialogue and closed the sale that way. tbh, i'm not really sure on the whole site-organization of things like offers, postage etc as it's kinda making the site a part of the transaction but not really as it's still just between 2 individuals. that said, i'm not exactly doing a lot of buying/selling so it doesn't really matter all that much to me.

sub-optimal air seal is something i'd expect on a lot of new guns to some extent let alone a secondhand gun. tbh i'd say a secondhand pew showing up with perfect airseal would be more noteworthy. same with wobble, ar derivatives between the upper and lower or ak frontends getting loose are pretty typical. hard to be more exact without knowing exactly what type of gun it was.

Taking what you've put at face value: You sold a gun, with known faults which the buyer was happy to accept They then either used, or immediately dissassembled it and found/possibly caused a broken part Despite the usual caveat emptor of second hand sales you offered a partial refund, which they refused. If it were me i'd say no to a full refund. Its an understood part of buying secondhand that any pew can have hidden gremlins that even a honest seller might not be aware of, hell even face to face sales where you can test a gun is no guarantee. Some people aren't happy buying something with potential faults and no comeback and choose to avoid secondhand sales for that exact reason.

if you're gonna try shimming if you start out over-shimming, then drop it down until you get decent air seal? that way the nozzle is too far back rather than too far forward. kinda the opposite of trimming a nozzle where you shorten in little increments to be sure not to take too much off. that is, assuming there isn't some trick to the system that we don't know.

those torn lips will absolutely ruin the consistency, tbh i'm almost surprised it's not worse than it is. if it's tearing the lips like that then something mustn't be right, and nozzle as you're already thinking seems like the likely culprit, maybe going too far forward?

in that case your usual ammo weight for an assault gun would be a good pick if that's how you're gonna be using it, but if you wanna try heavier than why not. just a maple leaf macaron (green)+ omega nub, not particularly exotic, and bearing in mind that's at 1j. ofc you had to get all your firing done in the morning if you wanted to make hits in the afternoon..... even used to run them in the makarov at ~0.7-0.75j and it'd lift them. range was hilarious but given i can't shoot pistols for shit it was kinda pointless, especially as it had a habit of bulging nozzles so i stopped using them.

i'm probably the wrong person to be responding to this but as heavy as you can get, then fit a maple leaf setup to get it to lift it...... jokes aside, as with all things it's a cost versus performance balance, and it's up to you. whilst i have fed a polarstar .48's and it was hilarious the little "ker-ching" noise every time you pull the trigger is an incessant reminder of how much money is going downrange so run whatever you think has the right balance for you. one thing you need to be careful with on an hpa setup is joule creep, you want to be sure you're setting your pressures/dwell etc to the ammo you're using in-game and not anything lighter.

that'd do quite literally the opposite, there's no tactile break with an optical trigger

i'll be honest, i don't think i've ever seen this happen, at least not in a way that was noteworthy. tbh, if i thought about it i'd say drop it, because i can imagine that'd be an amusing way to frag your own team. although that said, if you dropped it i doubt any team mates would take it judging by the prevalance of people assuming freindly fire doesnt count regardless of the site's policy.

np man, at least now you know what the limitations are for the jack

i'd certainly say it's the more future proof platform, able to go into a wider range of donor guns (should you ever fancy doing that for the change) and whilst there's a lot more to the tuning to get it dialled in, it's at least able to get great consistency when you get it set (read: about as good as it's possible to get) it'll have the same response as the jack (on a technical, if not necessarily practical standpoint the response is marginally quicker in closed bolt operation not that you can even notice, they're both mouse-clicks), it won't quite be able to do the a-10 levels of brrt as the jack, but it'll still run plenty fast enough. if cost isn't too big a deal then that'd be my pick, if cost is a factor then there are the likes of the wolverine systems, although i'm not so familiar with their limitations in terms of precision.

fair enough, a jack can be about equivalent to a decent-ish aeg when setup properly, but the laser beam of a dialled in f2/fusion it is not. it will however have better semi response than any aeg and rate of fire can easily go above what would generally be considered to be acceptable.

what kind of play do you normally do? if you're predominantly cqb focused and just want the trigger response then that's fine. if you're playing outdoors and want a range focus then i might suggest the jack isn't the engine for you, it's an open bolt design with fundamental barriers to getting really good consistency.